Progress is slow as he is only available to come up and help on the weekends and I'm only doing what I can be certain is correct without him around.

At this point, were trying to get the cage completed. The capping has been decided and I believe the fab shop in Indy has built the pieces for us to fit and install. There is still much to be done with coachwork, wiring and interior work.

A couple of things we've decided. The heater will be retained, but with a fixed discharge arrangement. We'll have split windscreen demisting and floor heat. The fan will have two speeds, low and high. This will allow us to completely remove the center panel controls and replace them with a single (or two) switch (we're still arguing over this point :flipoff2:). We're considering removing the plastic dash pad and have a piece of aluminium or steel fabbed to allow for gauges and controls for electrical circuitry. The remaining sunroof is slated for replacement with a piece of Lexan, scored for easy breaking should egress be necessary.

Something we learned that surprised both of us. When the back half of the early cage was removed, the back half of the truck sagged 1/4" and the back door on the left side now is difficult to open. Apparently, somewhere along the line (Moab?) he/we bent the frame or collapsed a body mount.

Does anyone know if it is possible to move all the coolers to the rear of the truck (rad/oil/ps/trans ) ??

How do we stop the trans juice from comming out of the dipstick ??:eek:

Does anyone know if it is possible to move all the coolers to the rear of the truck (rad/oil/ps/trans ) ??

How do we stop the trans juice from coming out of the dipstick ??:eek:

Fixed the Afrikaanszulujapahoosierese:flipoff2:

What we're worried about is: If we put the tranny cooler above the level of its existing mounting point, will we have problems with fluid draining out the dipstick or the vent lines?

Now that I think about it, I'm doubting we'll have a problem as the current mounting location fitting points are either at the same level of the dipstick, or above.

in order for the fluid to come out the dipstick the fluid level would have to be overfilled.
So if the volume of the cooler and lines is greater than what the trans will hold if "overfilled" by that amount then I guess it is possible, but once filled you *should* not
get any drainback to the trans.

in order for the fluid to come out the dipstick the fluid level would have to be overfilled.
So if the volume of the cooler and lines is greater than what the trans will hold if "overfilled" by that amount then I guess it is possible, but once filled you *should* not
get any drainback to the trans.

Thanx a lot, now I have to figure out how to plumb oil, coolant and ATF to the back of the truck, along with mounting the radiator back there:flipoff2:

PT : well get buzzy ebuilding is not the same as doing it dammit :mad3:

For my series hybrid im building I need to relocate the Transcooler. I plan on using one of the coolers with a fan built in. Summit has them for 105 bucks for an econo one (Derale I believe). I was contimplating a dual circuit cooler but I think Im just going to eliminate the oil cooler altogether like the early classics did. Im worried about a drop in pressure plumbing the oil that far back (Ive got the old 3.9 with external pump). I figure if I run synthetics it should be fine. Summit also carries a large (21 inches) dual circuit cooler for 195 bucks (permacool with a fan built in) so that might be an option for you as well. Either way, be sure to post some photos so I can see what you did. Gordo

The remaining sunroof is slated for replacement with a piece of Lexan, scored for easy breaking should egress be necessary.

have you ever scored lexan and tried to break it? not plexiglass, but lexan? if you scored it deep enough to break easily, you might as well keep the glass. if you're dead set on lexan though, i can get you a piece with the MR10 scratch resistant coating...maybe a trade for some parts?

How do we stop the trans juice from comming out of the dipstick ??:eek:

I thought this was supposed to be a family-friendly website? :confused::flipoff2:

AFI already has flexa-lite fans so we're all set with that.

He has already bought the lexan.

Pirate family-friendly? Yeah, right!

Re: cooler and stuff.

I had the same issue with my Cummins swap. I have a 30K lbs rated cooler and 5/8 hydraulic line running to it so it holds an extra 4L of trans fluid. There was originally a check valve on the pressure line to keep it from draining back but they are prone to failure so I left it off. I ended up just tapping the tranny case where the dipstick tube goes in, adding a barbed fitting, and cutting the tube and adding a piece of high temp hose in between. The dispstick is hard to get in and out, but that's partly because of the weird angles. Tranny level is wayy above the dipstick to pan joint now and it doesn't leak (anything!).

He has already bought the lexan.

has he tried scoring and breaking a piece just as a test? the machine shop i work at is one of the biggest plastics distributors in the area. lexan is not fracture prone. that's why they use it as windshields in things. unlike plexiglass, it doesn't break into shards. i think he would be better off not scoring it, and just putting some wing nuts on the bolts.

Re: cooler and stuff.

I had the same issue with my Cummins swap. I have a 30K lbs rated cooler and 5/8 hydraulic line running to it so it holds an extra 4L of trans fluid. There was originally a check valve on the pressure line to keep it from draining back but they are prone to failure so I left it off. I ended up just tapping the tranny case where the dipstick tube goes in, adding a barbed fitting, and cutting the tube and adding a piece of high temp hose in between. The dispstick is hard to get in and out, but that's partly because of the weird angles. Tranny level is wayy above the dipstick to pan joint now and it doesn't leak (anything!).

So I WAS right!:flipoff2:

We discussed check valves this morning, along with valves on the dipstick tube (Where's Merv when we need him?).

Glad to hear that a: we aren't barking up the wrong tree and b: that our brainstormed ideas are consistent with the thinking of others. Now to grab my "Inch stick" (not that one:grinpimp:) and start measurin' and cypherin' to figure out how to mount and protect the radiator/heat exchangers.

Dammit, I wanna get into the wiring and interior and there's more engineering to do! Well, that and trucks with failed air suspensions waiting to be fixed.

how and where are you tying the cage in...frame or body...

how and where are you tying the cage in...frame or body...

Frame all the way. The rear supports are tied into brackets for the rear bumper that extend out all the way to the bumper. There is a piece of 2" square tube that sits above the old body mounts. Where the center hoop is, we will be adding vertical tubes going directly down into the frame. There will also be diagonal (triangulation) braces going from above the seats, angling toward the canter, but probably ending above the verticals. Again, egress is a major concern as AFI and I are both concerned about such things as turning turtle in water or fire/fuel loss.

In the front, the uprights are tied into the frame outriggers-kinda like Alex's truck, IIRC. If Nadim has his way, the bonnet will go away, along with much of the radiator core support, to be replaced with more tubing...

If Nadim has his way, the bonnet will go away, along with much of the radiator core support, to be replaced with more tubing...

100% - If I were to do this over again on my truck, that's exactly how I'd do it...K.I.S.S. in every aspect...couple of spot lights as headlights and that's that...

Am emailing you and AFI the "other" stuff we were chatting about :smokin:

Nadim

My old style 3.9 external oil pump has no problem pushing (motor) oil all the way to the rear of my buggy and back. I'm using -8an lines to a Derale 11 x 17 cooler w/fan. No synth, just regular 10/30. Priming was a PITA, but once done, no problems.

My trans cooler is well above the TC. I'm sure the pump has a check valve in it, as I've had no over-fill issues at all.

--D

My old style 3.9 external oil pump has no problem pushing (motor) oil all the way to the rear of my buggy and back. I'm using -8an lines to a Derale 11 x 17 cooler w/fan. No synth, just regular 10/30. Priming was a PITA, but once done, no problems.

My trans cooler is well above the TC. I'm sure the pump has a check valve in it, as I've had no over-fill issues at all.

--D

Thanks, for the input. I'd feel mo betta with a cooler on it. Gordo

has he tried scoring and breaking a piece just as a test? the machine shop i work at is one of the biggest plastics distributors in the area. lexan is not fracture prone. that's why they use it as windshields in things. unlike plexiglass, it doesn't break into shards. i think he would be better off not scoring it, and just putting some wing nuts on the bolts.

Do you have anything that is better at scratch resistance than the stuff you typically get? What is the most scratch and pit resistant stuff you can buy? I am about to put in a Lexan Windshield but I can't keep the stuff I get locally alive for more than a season. Thanks.

Thanks, for the input. I'd feel mo betta with a cooler on it. Gordo

Oil coolers are largely pointless. Get a huge PS cooler intead.

Do you have anything that is better at scratch resistance than the stuff you typically get? What is the most scratch and pit resistant stuff you can buy? I am about to put in a Lexan Windshield but I can't keep the stuff I get locally alive for more than a season. Thanks.

Speedglass? http://www.quadratec.com/products/12501_205.htm

Maybe if you get something that is a little larger so that you can cut it up to fit?

Oil coolers are largely pointless. Get a huge PS cooler intead.

We have a huge, uber-sexy PAS cooler for AFI's truck. We will be retaining the oil cooler function of the radiator.

Seems to me that the PAS system absolutely has to have the reservoir at the highest point to keep it from overflowing and insure an adequate supply of fluid to the pump. Perhaps I'll relocate the reservoir (or replace it with a much larger one) to the back of the truck and locate it at a similar level to the cooler.

Oil coolers are largely pointless. Get a huge PS cooler intead.

We have a huge, uber-sexy PAS cooler for AFI's truck. We will be retaining the oil cooler function of the radiator.

Seems to me that the PAS system absolutely has to have the reservoir at the highest point to keep it from overflowing and insure an adequate supply of fluid to the pump. Perhaps I'll relocate the reservoir (or replace it with a much larger one) to the back of the truck and locate it at a similar level to the cooler.

Of course, we no sooner start this project than everybody and their brother's trucks die. The driveway/parking lot and all three garages are chock full of broken Rovers! Hopefully, we'll get this truck under its own power by late April, early May.

Do you have anything that is better at scratch resistance than the stuff you typically get? What is the most scratch and pit resistant stuff you can buy? I am about to put in a Lexan Windshield but I can't keep the stuff I get locally alive for more than a season. Thanks.

yeah, the GE Lexan with the MR10 coating is the best i know of out there right now. you can rub steel wool across it. windshield wipers shouldn't do much either assuming they are not old and dried out. the speedglass is just GE Lexan with the MR10 coating, nothing special. all they do is cut it, and maybe thermoform it for specific applications. if i were doing it i'd use .25 inch. .125 will flex and distort more from wind/body twist/etc, distorting the view.

yeah, the GE Lexan with the MR10 coating is the best i know of out there right now. you can rub steel wool across it. windshield wipers shouldn't do much either assuming they are not old and dried out. the speedglass is just GE Lexan with the MR10 coating, nothing special. all they do is cut it, and maybe thermoform it for specific applications. if i were doing it i'd use .25 inch. .125 will flex and distort more from wind/body twist/etc, distorting the view.

Thanks. Do you know of any sources in Socal? Could I split the difference and do a 3/16 sheet. I agree the 1/8 is flimsy but the 1/4 seems like overkill.

Bung that oil cooler as high as you like and dont worry about it. it's a closed system - right - as in the line to the cooler is not open to the atmostphere anywhere? no bleed screws left out, no breathers?

if it's closed, then even if the cooler was 6 feet up, it would not cause a leak or overflow at the dip stick.

if the cooler allowed any air to leak into the system, then the oil would try to get out at the dipstick.

Lookie here:
http://www.ifwdc.com/events/2004/tomcat_build/images/tomcats_109.jpg

and the oil cooler (transmission) is just in front of the radiator.

Merv.

Bung that oil cooler as high as you like and dont worry about it. it's a closed system - right - as in the line to the cooler is not open to the atmostphere anywhere? no bleed screws left out, no breathers?

if it's closed, then even if the cooler was 6 feet up, it would not cause a leak or overflow at the dip stick.

if the cooler allowed any air to leak into the system, then the oil would try to get out at the dipstick.

Lookie here:
http://www.ifwdc.com/events/2004/tomcat_build/images/tomcats_109.jpg

and the oil cooler (transmission) is just in front of the radiator.

Merv.

Thanx for the input Merv (and another teasing picture!).

In the process of this build, I contacted Tomcat. Sadly, between the exchange rate and shipping to the US, it's not gonna happen around here.

PT

a few weeks ago i saw the most genius window idea i have ever seen. cary from got propane made a windshield out of convertible top window material. he just used snaps and made it slightly under sized. then heated it with a hair drier and stretched it to fit over the snaps, and viola. cheap and it was pimp. and then when you want to take it off, it just rolls up. it was stretched so tightly that it would probably handle windshield wipers.



sorry "windscreen"...:flipoff2:

.

..

is that tubing mitered...?

no absolutly no how ever it was mataboed :eek:

no absolutly no how ever it was mataboed :eek:


Paul, need a little translation help here. :flipoff2:

-Jeff

Paul, need a little translation help here. :flipoff2:

-Jeff

No, absolutely not. However, it was Metaboed.

A Metabo high speed grinder was used to notch all of the tubing.

We haven't taken any pictures of the capping, but it's gonna work out and look a lot better than I ever expected.

Cheers,
PT

More pics, please. Especially where/how you tied it into the rear floor.

Date: March 17, 2008

Entry:
Note to self; Never let PTSchram work on your truck. That is all.












:flipoff2:

More pics, please. Especially where/how you tied it into the rear floor.

Pics to come. Underneath the body, there is a piece of 2" square tube running left to right, essentially replacing the bushings. The rear bumper is tied to this on the ends, and the cage is connected to it through the floor. On top of the floor, there is a piece 3" rectangular tubing to which the cage is directly welded.

When the fuel tank is relocated to the rear loadspace, there is much one can do in the back.

I went thru Churubusco yesterday morning to get a furnace part in Ft Wayne. Thought about stopping and asking someone where your shop was but in the end I didn't have time. Definitely need to get out there and at least stop in and meet yah, we'll be going wheeling in South Whitley in 2-3 weeks when we get everything back from powdercoat and on the truck.

Looks good!

I went thru Churubusco yesterday morning to get a furnace part in Ft Wayne. Thought about stopping and asking someone where your shop was but in the end I didn't have time. Definitely need to get out there and at least stop in and meet yah, we'll be going wheeling in South Whitley in 2-3 weeks when we get everything back from powdercoat and on the truck.

Looks good!

300 N, across from Aqua Tek, eighth house on the left, you can't miss it, lots of Land Rovers around:D

some pics as promised

Paging Michael Slade....please report to Fort Wayne, Indiana...

:flipoff2:

Here are some up to date or rather more recent pics

for your intertianment flame away

the door has a 1/8th lexan door skin
the next pic is storage for recovery gear and other junk
the last is a sample of the caping I am working on now

dash is gone and the real work can begin :D

we will "trim dowm the wireing harness and get rid of all that is not needed
and then build a new and "improved" dash

Gee, I wonder how much weight we can lose just by removing the circuits we'll no longer need?

dash is gone and the real work can begin :D

Man I'm not afraid of getting dirty or doing most things. But I HATE electrical meticuluous work. That pic gives me cold shudders! :laughing:

bring your clippers I got beer

Gee, I wonder how much weight we can lose just by removing the circuits we'll no longer need?

:flipoff2: - you know it!

Man I'm not afraid of getting dirty or doing most things. But I HATE electrical meticuluous work. That pic gives me cold shudders! :laughing:

x2! hate the electrical part of things!

Looking good Gary...did you decide on diffs? are you going to go the route we discussed?

Man I'm not afraid of getting dirty or doing most things. But I HATE electrical meticuluous work. That pic gives me cold shudders! :laughing:

LOL, AFI's a degreed electrical engineer and I have an Extra Class amateur radio license and a soldering iron. If we can't fawk it up, nobody can!:laughing::flipoff2::eek::shaking:

In some degree of seriousness, I have several wiring harnesses from same year trucks, the ETM, wiring diagrams and we both have substantial experience troubleshooting and rebuilding wrecked and/or burned up trucks. I'm excited about the challenge and am trying to schedule work so that we can get down to bidness with this project.

For the circuits that we intend to retain, we are going to maintain the wiring diagram color coding so that if we find ourselves out on the trail, we can utilize the factory wiring diagrams as much as possible to troubleshoot. Personally, I think this is a stroke of genius (and not just because it was my idea :flipoff2:) but because it is just so obviously a good idea.

Cheers,
PT

Gee, I wonder how much weight we can lose just by removing the circuits we'll no longer need?

Ask Alex, PT. IIRC, he got his wiring down to bare minimum - there was hardly anything left.

LOL, AFI's a degreed electrical engineer and I have an Extra Class amateur radio license and a soldering iron. If we can't fawk it up, nobody can!:laughing::flipoff2::eek::shaking:

Either that, or it'll come out of the shop sporting a full complement of wireless sensors, GPS nav suite, WiFi interconnect ability and a unsettling tendency to stall out anywhere near a water hazard, military airfield or Starbucks outlet.

Ask Alex, PT. IIRC, he got his wiring down to bare minimum - there was hardly anything left.

We've already got a list of which circuits to retain and which we no longer need.

I think I finally convinced him to use the ECU control for the fuel pump, instead of the cobbled mess it currently has. That said, we will be replacing the OEM multi-function relay with Hella/Bosch ice-cube relays. Again, this is being done to enhance field-serviceability. The Hella/ Bosch relays are available at every truck stop on earth, not so with the LR multi-function relay.

I finally convinced him to use the ECU control for the fuel pump, instead of the cobbled mess it currently has.

NOT SO FAST LADDY
I THINK THAT WHAT I NEED IS SOME SORT OF A HYBRID :shaking::shaking:

giving ovis 1 a hair cut

(pt trying to follow one silly wire ) :flipoff2:

and a few hours later this is what we had (all we need) and then some

Ya know, if I'm in the picture, I can't be blamed for the photography :flipoff2:

Soon, we'll know if the truck still runs wihtout all of those "extra" wires!

Cheers,
PT

ok here is a list of junk that is gone (I may forget some stuff pt will fix it not to worry)

ecu's removed

abs
cruz
alarm
air bag
sunroof

wires and rly's

all dash switches and needed relay's (but not the mirrors)
all radio wires
all abs wires
all cruz relays and wires
all door lock junk.
all interior lighting inclueding dimmer
all ac and heater wires and needed relay's
all air bag wires and needed relay's
all rear window wipe ,wash wires and needed relay's, etc
all misc junk (clock, door switches,etc)

I think this covers it for now my brain is musshy .....

stay tuned more to come out soon

that is one handsome fella.

that is one handsome fella.

I'm taken:flipoff2: Fortunately, she thinks I'm handsome too-ever since I broke her glasses:grinpimp:

The truck's coming along well. In spite of a coupla wires that either got cut, or turned out to be something other than what we thought they were, the truck still runs and after a little head scratching, the shifter works again:D.

AFI left the truck here for a day or so... Now's my chance to plumb and wire the fuel system the way I think it should be:grinpimp::laughing:

I'm taken:flipoff2: Fortunately, she thinks I'm handsome too-ever since I broke her glasses:grinpimp:

The truck's coming along well. In spite of a coupla wires that either got cut, or turned out to be something other than what we thought they were, the truck still runs and after a little head scratching, the shifter works again:D.

AFI left the truck here for a day or so... Now's my chance to plumb and wire the fuel system the way I think it should be:grinpimp::laughing:

i want to figure out what i can get rid of, as i have no longer abs, srs, power locks, or almost any other working electrical accessory. dome lights don't even work anymore, clock is out too:D

time for tube...my wife is going to kill me.

The point of no return is a frightening revelation. Breaking the hegemony of Land Rover purists however, can be a relief. I have faith Aaron will successfully survive tubing a Rover.

Silly Afi, left his truck again. Today, the fuel system gets corrected-tee hee hee.

The point of no return is a frightening revelation. Breaking the hegemony of Land Rover purists however, can be a relief. I have faith Aaron will successfully survive tubing a Rover.

Silly Afi, left his truck again. Today, the fuel system gets corrected-tee hee hee.

i crossed that threshold a year ago when i put jeep axles under my disco...i could feel the rift in the force.

Hey Gary and PT...that's a svelt looking wire harness...did you weigh the ditched wires/items?

not yet but we have al the bits

Sweet - did you decide on axles?

yes we did how ever not at this time I want to get through this part of the build first as it sits now it looks like 60's but not in axel mode right now to busy cutting wires

Cool

We fully intended to weigh everything we removed... However, I got really tired of slogging through the piles of detritus. A huge fawking pile of insulation from the bulkhead got thrown in the trash yesterday. I suspect there was the better part of 50 pounds removed just from the insulation, that stuff is damned heavy.

The heater box was removed last week, to be replaced with a much smaller heater/blower assembly. The weight savings here will be similarly significant, if not astounding.

The fuel tank has been mounted in a more secure manner. I'm now making progress on cleaning up the fuel plumbing. I hope to have this finished by lunch time and will then move on to mounting and rewiring the fuel pump circuit. I had intended to replace the fuel level sender, but now as the instrument panel plans have been somewhat finalized, it will be as easy to merely use a gauge compatible with the existing sender. I'm not sure if we'll be retaining the level gauge wiring of the original wiring harness, this too will be resolved later today.

Cheers,
PT

Good stuff PT...the insulation is SCARILY heavy! That, the seats, and the glass...best/easiest weight drop potential on a Disco...

It's slow going making all the parts you need and fitting them to the truck. Slow going. Add in travel time and interruptions, it can be so frustrating, I need another shopboy!

Fuel supply is plumbed up, now to get the return line plumbed. Then, it's onto the fuel pump wiring so I can move this one off the lift and get back to real paying jobs for a day or two. Pictures of fuel plumbing to come!

OK, finally got the fuel system working. In spite of someone's protestations to the contrary, I wired it up using the ECU controlled relay. I remember catching Hell for not using this circuit in Shopboy's Rangie and did not want to repeat that experience.

I did not take before pics as I did not wish to embarrass the guilty.

PT

I don't know what you've done for the internal pickup, but if its still just a dangling hose you'll probably want to put some of these on

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html

Without them its very easy to starve the pickup on that fuel cell when the level gets below 1/2 tank and steep angles are involved.

I don't know what you've done for the internal pickup, but if its still just a dangling hose you'll probably want to put some of these on

http://www.autoperformanceengineering.com/html/pickups.html

Without them its very easy to starve the pickup on that fuel cell when the level gets below 1/2 tank and steep angles are involved.

I tried to convince AFI of the wisdom of that setup, but he wouldn't have any of it. He's got some sort of fancy pickup on the end of the line.

yea fancy it;s called a lead weight on the end of the pick up

... I had intended to replace the fuel level sender, but now as the instrument panel plans have been somewhat finalized, it will be as easy to merely use a gauge compatible with the existing sender. I'm not sure if we'll be retaining the level gauge wiring of the original wiring harness, this too will be resolved later today.

Cheers,
PT

Please advice on which gauges are compatible with the original sender.
Fuel level is the only gauge I have not wired in my RRC.

Good job PT. Straps are the way to go.

Good job PT. Straps are the way to go.

Thanx Dave. I'm glad something I did finally met with your approval:flipoff2:

AFI and I are discussing the need for, or lack thereof, padding for the fuel cell. I'm kinda leaning toward just cinching it down well so it won't move and not worrying about padding, but in spite of my taking ownership of the porject, ultimately, it IS his truck.

This weekend, the cage got some more work in the cockpit (it no longer seems appropriate to refer to it as "Passenger Compartment") that dramatically improved visibility and most likely strength as well. Pics to come next week, the truck is at the boat shop for fabrication of the soft-top.

The gauges has been received and layout work is underway. Man, that's a lot of gauges and still no instrument panel to mount them to:grinpimp:

Still need to repair the damaged engine cooling fans, install the PAS fluid cooler, decide on an aux trans cooler and wire up the fail-safe cooling fan temp switched.

On a good note, the timetable for completion was gratefully extended to recognize the real-world implications of shop-time management (or again, lack thereof).

More pics to come.

PT

ps-Tobias, be patient, I'll find you a fuel level gauge that will work with the stock sender!

This weekend, the cage got some more work in the cockpit (it no longer seems appropriate to refer to it as "Passenger Compartment") that dramatically improved visibility and most likely strength as well. Pics to come next week, the truck is at the boat shop for fabrication of the soft-top.


Does that mean its a single seater? center steer?

-Jeff

Does that mean its a single seater? center steer?

-Jeff


Until further notice, single seater. I suspect the second seat will eventually be reinstalled, but for now, it only has one seat. Most of the design work is centering around providing info and comfort to the driver. Winchbitch (most likely me:flipoff2:) be damned.

well its about you know your place PT:flipoff2:

I bet that soft top will look great...good stuff Paul and Gary!

I went to take look at it this afternoon and its about 50% done

More pics Afi !
I gotta see more :shaking:

a few pics

the new top / fume curtain
the "sun roof"
my new rear light idea for today
and last a shot from inside ovis

you need more shackles.

you need more shackles.

Maybe secure 'em with zipties, too :flipoff2:

Maybe secure 'em with zipties, too :flipoff2:

givin a little time :mad3::D

ok fellas I'm thinking of installing the rad in the back any ideas on how/what materials I should gather up to do this?

should we used ss pipe and hoses or just two long ass piece od hose from the water pump to the rear and back ?:confused::confused:

has any one on here done this or have pics to share ???

Use SS/alloy tubing as much as you can hence it helps cool the fluid as it passes and is also much more prone to not getting damaged like rubber lines. You can also omit your overflow tank and just make sure you have a bleed port somewhere higher than anything else in the system. I've even used the fill hole in the radiator as my bleed port as long as it was the highest up part.

ok fellas I'm thinking of installing the rad in the back any ideas on how/what materials I should gather up to do this?

should we used ss pipe and hoses or just two long ass piece od hose from the water pump to the rear and back ?:confused::confused:

has any one on here done this or have pics to share ???

Having work on this very setup, it's a pain in the ass, with no real gained benefit, in my oppinion, and I don't think the Rover water pump has enough ass to circulate that much fluid over that distance.

ok fellas I'm thinking of installing the rad in the back any ideas on how/what materials I should gather up to do this?

should we used ss pipe and hoses or just two long ass piece od hose from the water pump to the rear and back ?:confused::confused:

has any one on here done this or have pics to share ???
why do you want to do this?

why do you want to do this?

Historically poor cooling, even with a brandy new radiator. Horrible build-up of all manner of crud, seemingly regardless of where wheeling.

I guess I'm not clear on how a rear-mounted radiator will fix this. There is plenty of room for a big radiator up front if you want to go aftermarket.

I guess I'm not clear on how a rear-mounted radiator will fix this. There is plenty of room for a big radiator up front if you want to go aftermarket.

Larger heat exchanger, absolutely no risk of dirt and mud clogging it ease of cleaning any crud that does build up on it.

Larger heat exchanger, absolutely no risk of dirt and mud clogging it ease of cleaning any crud that does build up on it.

Also more water volume, no? and better weight distribution, etc...

Also more water volume, no? and better weight distribution, etc...

Potentially. We are investigating alternate heat exchangers from both automotive and industrial applications. While I can see little thermal downside to greater coolant volume, there is always the issue of weight of that coolant. But, as you so profoundly alluded, it would be more centrally located, but would also raise the center of gravity by moving a weight from just above the frame rails to a point above the belt-line of the truck (at least the majority would be above the belt-line).

There may be an advantage to having the heat exchanger less near to the heat generator, and potentially, far more unrestricted air flow. We will also have the heat exchanger mounted nearer to the batteries allowing for shorter runs of the fairly large conductors necessary to supply the fans appropriately.

In most Midwest wheeling situations, the ambient temps won't get very high and the heat exchanger located behind the passenger compartment shouldn't be an issue. The impact when wheeling in places with significantly elevated ambient temps hasn't been addressed-yet.

While it may seem that we are attempting to solve a symptom of a problem that hasn't been addressed, we both feel that we have built the cooling system of this truck as well as can be done using stock components and the best electric fans AFI could find-although I still argue with him over the use of electric versus engine-driven mechanical fans:flipoff2::flipoff2:

His truck might actually make into the shop this week if I can keep the momentum going. I'm looking forward to tidying the wiring and making it as robust and reliable as I can, in a similar fashion to the fuel tank plumbing and fuel pump wiring I got finished while he wasn't around to argue with me over how I was doing it:D

:eek:hey PT I have my eye on you .
I'l bring some help this week end if you are not done they will help you :flipoff2:

Is this thing running yet?

I have two extra Toyotas you guys could borrow if you wanna go wheeling......:flipoff2:

thanks for the offer but it has allways run and does now just no idea whats going on and no dash and the wiring is everywhere but id love to break you yodas if you will let me:eek::eek::eek:

Buggy is looking good guys!

Buggy is looking good guys!

Thanx, but I'm having a Hell of a time getting back to it. AFI finally brought it back to me after having the coachwork done and I have been so damned busy I don't even have the wiring stable enough that you can start and move it without having to hold wires to the battery!

We ripped most of the wiring out and before I had a chance to tidy things up, he took it to the trim shop for the coachwork and now, it's out behind the shop, being taken over by a pumpkin vine!