Hey, i've got a '74 Scout II and am wantin to lift it as far as possible with as little money invested. I was wonderin how high i can go before i have to switch to CV DL's and w/o turing the diff? I am still in high-school and aint got much time OR money so everything is gonna be home-made:grinpimp:. I appreciate the help! I intend on a SOA for sure with 33x12.5x15 Norseman Armstrong tires, but wasn't sure if i could go higher.

You actually want to dirrect this information to another website http://www.justih.org. I will not flame you because you are a high school student.

If you only want to run 33s forget a lift and go talk to the metal shop teacher about cutting the shit out of your fenders to fit 33s. If you want it to look good then start saving money and buy 4" spring under leaf springs and run 33s or save more $$ for a SOA.

Sounds like a cool start... A few years back when my son was in sigh school his first ride was a 73 Scout II, he was asking the same questions...

I recommend that you search this site for more infomation beyond what you get here.

What we did was a 1" body lift first. This was the cheapest lift option. Your body mount attach brackets must be solid, his were. We did not buy a kit, but got 1" spacers from a local 4X4 shop, bought grade 8 bolts 1" longer than stock (or as close as we could) for all locations. Based on all the info we found that was all we needed. But while doing this we did find we needed a u-joint for the steering linkage, this was about $45. Once again, we went to the local 4X4 shop and got that. Took the rag joint out and put the u-joint in it's place and it was a perfect fit. All the linkages coming thru the body floor had enough play to cover the distance. He is running a auto transmission, I'm not sure how this works with a stick shift if you have one. While you are doing all this you might as well replace the body mount bushings if they have not already been replaced. His Scout came with a new set included (what a deal...) This mod was all mechanical, no welding or other processes to deal with.

Of course, that was not high enough... (It never will be...)

The spring over came next. This will require welding, grinding and more grinding. Your drive lines will need to be replaced, they will be too short. Brake lines, too. I really recommend you turn the front axle, it will drive really bad if you don't. I know there are threads here that go into the details. Do some searching...

Good luck.

NOT doing a SOA aint an option. Plus, as i stated, things are gonna be custom fabricated so there wont be much for expense. My main question is how far until i need CV's? If i can go higher then the 5-6 of the SOA then i will look into a shackle lift. As far as tires, 33's will do till i can get my hands on some bigger ones. Also i am goin to install a 3in body lift.

Hey, i've got a '74 Scout II and am wantin to lift it as far as possible with as little money invested. I was wonderin how high i can go before i have to switch to CV DL's and w/o turing the diff? I am still in high-school and aint got much time OR money so everything is gonna be home-made:grinpimp:. I appreciate the help! I intend on a SOA for sure with 33x12.5x15 Norseman Armstrong tires, but wasn't sure if i could go higher.

0.7328 inches. Some guys totally push the envelope and actually get 0.75 inches.

You actually want to dirrect this information to another website http://www.justih.org. I will not flame you because you are a high school student.

If you only want to run 33s forget a lift and go talk to the metal shop teacher about cutting the shit out of your fenders to fit 33s. If you want it to look good then start saving money and buy 4" spring under leaf springs and run 33s or save more $$ for a SOA.


Just IH has been down for about 2 days now. Try www.binderbulletin.org

So, no matter what i do, i am gonna have to change the drivelines, and thats it? Well, since i got that answered, how bout some recomendations on things to be done, keepin in mind that its a low budget bogger/beater. All suggestion welcome!

So, no matter what i do, i am gonna have to change the drivelines, and thats it? Well, since i got that answered, how bout some recomendations on things to be done, keepin in mind that its a low budget bogger/beater. All suggestion welcome!

Your reading comprehension is as good as my spelling skills. :shaking: your question was not answered. Also, look around. Your gonna learn fast the there 'aint' nothin cheap in the 4x4 world. Even the cheapest possible SOA will cost you couple hundred or more. Shit sneaks up on you. Material gets expencive fast. Brake lines, steering parts, hardware, etc... It all adds up.

We have been nice. Run along now. I think your moms flashing the porch light.

as stated above, the suggestion is to start reading, and then keep reading, and then read some more.

more you read, less you spend ...

we aren't going to spoon feed you everything.

1-CVs have little to do with the max angle
2-if you are not going to point the pinion at the tcase, don't use a CV
3- If height is your goal...you are in the wrong place

Hey, i've got a '74 Scout II and am wantin to lift it as far as possible with as little money invested.

Ummmmm.....Stock?? Just go see what it will do stock, and then decided what you want to do and where you want to spend you're money. And for 33's the cheapest alternative is sawzall blades. And since were batting around sage advice here's mine. It takes two things to build a rig, money and time. Having alot of one means needing less of the other.

Just lift it as high as you want then remove the drive shafts. Guys do it all of the time. Looks :smokin: parked at the local 7-11 on friday night.:grinpimp:

hockey pucks, 4x4 lumber and sawzall blades are cheap....good luck. :p

It's going to look goofy as fuck with an soa, lift shackles (:shaking:) 3 inch body lift on 33's.


Start with lift springs and learn to drive off road.

Search spring over on binderbulliten. Replace axles with chevy axles if you can find some cheap, front will almost bolt right in. Either way do a spring over, placing pads parallel to where they were before. Drill out a flat top chevy knuckle to 8 holes so you can run a high steer arm. Run stock driveshafts untill they break, then go to the junkyard and grab some 1310 shafts from anything and make them to size using the chop saw method. Works great

Don't be scared of CV shafts. You probably have a 10 spline d20 so you can just use a bronco output. I should have a couple laying around from back in my half ton days if you get serious and need one for cheap. a 76 K5 3-speed np205 front cv driveshaft is a bolt in swap with a bronco yoke if you don't do a cutn turn, however you might need to do some 727 grinding if you have an auto.

If I run Chevy axels, should I just go ahead and run chevy engine/tranny/tranfer case? I would prefer to not do any body cutting if possible, just because. Any good sites on how to turn an axel would be appriciated.

I can see I should have left out the fact that I was a high schooler. It seems to have thrown everyone off. I may only be senior but I am a long way from bein a town person.We have 7000 acres of private wheeling ground and 18 years of experience on it. Not sayin I am good, but I can hold my own. Also know that parts aren't cheap, but I know what a little African Inginuity can do and that it doesn't HAVE to be name brand to work. Some of the best looking vehicles where a backyard special and they dont seem to do to bad when it comes to performance.

if i run Chevy axels, should i just go ahead and run chevy engine/tranny/tranfer case? I would prefer to not do any body cuttin if possible, just cuz. Any good sites on how to turn an axel would be appriciated.

I can see i should have left out the fact that i was a hishschooler. It seems to have thrown ya'll off. I may only be senior but i am a long way from bein citified. Got 7000 acres of private wheelin ground and 18 years of experience on it. Aint sayin i am good, but i can hold my own. Also kno that parts aint cheap, but i kno what a little African Inginuity can do and that it dont HAVE to be name brand to work. Some of the best lookin rigs where a backyard special nd they dont seem to do to bad when it comes to performance.

Best looking, hu?! Your really in the wrong place. :rolleyes:

If I run Chevy axels, should I just go ahead and run chevy engine/tranny/tranfer case? I would prefer to not do any body cutting if possible, just because. Any good sites on how to turn an axel would be appriciated.

I can see I should have left out the fact that I was a high schooler. It seems to have thrown everyone off. I may only be senior but I am a long way from bein a town person.We have 7000 acres of private wheeling ground and 18 years of experience on it. Not sayin I am good, but I can hold my own. Also know that parts aren't cheap, but I know what a little African Inginuity can do and that it doesn't HAVE to be name brand to work. Some of the best looking vehicles where a backyard special and they dont seem to do to bad when it comes to performance.

eek :shaking:

anyway, there is no reason to go to all the work of swapping chevy drivetrain into it. The front axle is the same drop, and is already sprung over on the chevy so you don't have to build up a spring perch out of solid 6011, which I could see happening.

What front axle does it have?

1) Make it run - and run well. You'll spend a good chunk of your 'budget' on that alone I would guess....

2) Wheel it in stock form.

3) Research and google everyday for the next year.

4) Get back to us after a year or so.... :shaking:


Seriously....

I mean it... Don't come back until you have researched what you are talking about and wheeled the Scout as is.

Yup...

Then wash and repeat...

a 76 K5 3-speed np205 front cv driveshaft is a bolt in swap with a bronco yoke if you don't do a cutn turn,
Why does everyone fawk this up...angle has very little to do with the reason for running a CV...if you are looking for angle look at 1410 or toyota mini non-CV shafts...You want to run a CV with a cut and turn to eliminate vibrations....got to love the annual IH soft-serve fest.:shaking:

Why does everyone fawk this up...angle has very little to do with the reason for running a CV...if you are looking for angle look at 1410 or toyota mini non-CV shafts...You want to run a CV with a cut and turn to eliminate vibrations....got to love the annual IH soft-serve fest.:shaking:
too true.



everyone repeat after me:

YOU MUST DO A CUT AND TURN WITH A SPRING OVER

"CV" DRIVESHAFTS ARE NOT A MAGIC BULLET THAT CURE BAD DRIVELINE ANGLES

save yourself the hassel and do it right the first time.

Why does everyone fawk this up...angle has very little to do with the reason for running a CV...if you are looking for angle look at 1410 or toyota mini non-CV shafts...You want to run a CV with a cut and turn to eliminate vibrations....got to love the annual IH soft-serve fest.:shaking:

Right, but it fits without shortening and would work fine for what he is doing. If you do a cut and turn, you will have to take an inch out of the shaft to make it fit.

You don't have to run a CV shaft if you do a cut and turn. You will just get vibes at speed in 4wd, but it works.

i have realized that a cut and turn is mandatory or at least will prevent some hassel. And the front end is a 44

... save us the hassel and drink bleach while repeatedly stabbing yourself in the neck with a fork.

fixed it for ya.

i have realized that a cut and turn is mandatory or at least will prevent some hassel. And the front end is a 44

Not gonna lie, it was a PITA for me when I did my 44. Just make sure to check camber with a bubble level before you weld them back on.

The easiest thing to do is to buy someone else's soa axles.

The easiest thing to do is to buy someone else's soa axles.


Or buy chevy axles...

Or sell the scout and buy a Cherokee...

Or test out a dynamite tampon...

I agree with Uglyscout. play with it as is while your learning. I'm stil confused about the Norsman mudders or whatever they are called. Do they use split rims? Does your grandpa think they are HUGE? Are they Bias ply with tubes?

Norseman Armstrong Radials. Produced in the 80's before the company was bought out by Peralli. Guy had them on a Jeep and i wanted them for a Ranger i had at the time so i traded him a set of 32's for his 33's. Tubeless tire. Jeeps are alright and i was actually lookin for one when i found this scout. I wanted a cheaper toy and the guy only wanted $1000 for a complete scout II wit only 67000 on the 345 plus i get another rollin chassis, 700r4 tranny and tranfercase. Couldn't pass up the deal.

I would have. I paid $100 for mine.

$100 for what?

My Scout.

Right, but it fits without shortening and would work fine for what he is doing. If you do a cut and turn, you will have to take an inch out of the shaft to make it fit.

You don't have to run a CV shaft if you do a cut and turn. You will just get vibes at speed in 4wd, but it works.

Laborc, would it work un-modded with a SUA front scout? Been considering doing a RS, but don't have the extra dough to blow on another cv shaft. Just weighing my options for my end-of-the-list projects:flipoff2:

From what I remember, the K5 shaft I had was about 1.5 inches longer fully compressed than the stock SII shaft was on a 727 truck. It was easy to shorten with a chopsaw. Just make sure you install it, and turn it with some sort of indication while you tack it. Mine never vibrated, even at 60mph.

I would think any K5,10 series 76ish down front shaft would work just as well. Those were pre flange style front output.

I would have. I paid $100 for mine.

$0. I win.

buy a 4" skyjacker lift, some used 33" and cut the body. If your planing on wheeling it with 33"s and not trimming youll have to do a spring over with a 2" spring or a body lift. i had 35" with SOA 1.5" body lift trimmed pretty far and still rubbed at full tuck.

everyone is right by saying research, search is free here, search for SOA and go the the 11 pages of threads see what all it youll have to go through its not as easy as most would think.

$0. I win.

I've been paid to take them away!!:flipoff2::laughing:

Use the Wagoneer axle for a SOA. The pumpkin is a little more centered, so no grinding a perch, or using plates in the ulbolts. No need for a cut and turn because the pinion angle and castor angle are already set. Just weld two perches on just like you would for a rear axle. At least this is what CSmith mentioned to me as what he did with with his Extended cab Terra.

Also, Tom Mandera claims that you don't have to do a cut and turn on a Chevy D44. He mentioned that you can grind out some on the yokes.

From what I remember, the K5 shaft I had was about 1.5 inches longer fully compressed than the stock SII shaft was on a 727 truck. It was easy to shorten with a chopsaw. Just make sure you install it, and turn it with some sort of indication while you tack it. Mine never vibrated, even at 60mph.

I would think any K5,10 series 76ish down front shaft would work just as well. Those were pre flange style front output.

Thanks. I knew I remembered reading about you running it, just didn't know how much longer it was.

Also i am goin to install a 3in body lift.

No one has mentioned it, but Body lifts are Lame.

Everything you want to do is pretty much lame.

Like everyone said, you should learn to drive & figure out what it can do.

Then research, research, & research, then build it.

:shaking: the kinder gentler PBB.:shaking:

You guys are fawkin getting old (or are on Prozac).

No one has mentioned it, but Body lifts are Lame.

Everything you want to do is pretty much lame.

Like everyone said, you should learn to drive & figure out what it can do.

Then research, research, & research, then build it.

:shaking: the kinder gentler PBB.:shaking:

You guys are fawkin getting old (or are on Prozac).

I don't post much here I just lurk and look forward to the asshole comments to threads like these. Since this thread is lacking my suggestion for cody_g is grab a nail gun hold it to your temple and squeeze the trigger and cease the mindless questions that have no place here.

Alright, first off, thanks so far for the help. The tips/advice has been helpful. Secondly, no one MADE you post on here or even look at it. I asked a ligitimate question that I was unsure on, hoping someone would have the answer and the willingness to assist me in it. Now I did receive some useful recommendations but unfortunatly I had to sift through some bull shit posts to find them.

What do you recommend I do if a SOA, Body lift, and 33'' tires are lame and not worth doing;?

my 75 that i put chevys under, SOA, and 33" mudrovers on went places. I had it locked front and rear and it did well when the 727 and D20 were holding up. I did a cut and turn on the chevy axle and had only a couple degrees pinion u-joint angle. I am thinking it took about 20* of twisting the C's.

sift through this. http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=483596

Alright, first off, thanks so far for the help. The tips/advice has been helpful. Secondly, no one MADE you post on here or even look at it. I asked a ligitimate question that I was unsure on, hoping someone would have the answer and the willingness to assist me in it. Now I did receive some useful recommendations but unfortunatly I had to sift through some bull shit posts to find them.

What do you recommend I do if a SOA, Body lift, and 33'' tires are lame and not worth doing;?

Welcome to the PBB, dumbass. The reason you are getting so must bull shit is because your not paying any attention!! You've been told numerous times what you need to do, but you keep coming back here with questions. Now I will say it. Fix your rig, wheel it stock, learn to drive, search, search, search, search, search, and lastly SEARCH, search everywhere, here, JustInternationals, the Binder Bulletin. Everything you asked has been covered in detail.

Cody like I said in the FIRST RESPONSE: Buy some 4" leaf springs and run your 33's. A little trimming is in order but you will be running those after a weekend w/handtools or 4 hours with air tools. The $500 you spend will be nothing compared to the shit, time, and money of doing a SOA.

SOA's look cheap but they are not! The SUA will be better for street and muddin like you want to do anyways. If you want to do a body lift just do it but stay away from the 3"..I know I did one. the 2" body lift is fine and gives you hood clearance for a bigger air filter and shit. you are going to want that for screwing around in the mud too.

So post up in the classifieds here, the BB, and localy for used 4" springs. I bet you get a set for $300 or less.

No one has mentioned it, but Body lifts are Lame.

Everything you want to do is pretty much lame.

Like everyone said, you should learn to drive & figure out what it can do.

Then research, research, & research, then build it.

:shaking: the kinder gentler PBB.:shaking:

You guys are fawkin getting old (or are on Prozac).
I keep waiting for the old HoS to return.

Alright, first off, thanks so far for the help. The tips/advice has been helpful. Secondly, no one MADE you post on here or even look at it. I asked a ligitimate question that I was unsure on, hoping someone would have the answer and the willingness to assist me in it. Now I did receive some useful recommendations but unfortunatly I had to sift through some bull shit posts to find them.

What do you recommend I do if a SOA, Body lift, and 33'' tires are lame and not worth doing;?

Cody like I said in the FIRST RESPONSE: Buy some 4" leaf springs and run your 33's. A little trimming is in order but you will be running those after a weekend w/handtools or 4 hours with air tools. The $500 you spend will be nothing compared to the shit, time, and money of doing a SOA.

SOA's look cheap but they are not! The SUA will be better for street and muddin like you want to do anyways. If you want to do a body lift just do it but stay away from the 3"..I know I did one. the 2" body lift is fine and gives you hood clearance for a bigger air filter and shit. you are going to want that for screwing around in the mud too.

So post up in the classifieds here, the BB, and localy for used 4" springs. I bet you get a set for $300 or less.

yup, what NVScouter said.

Hell man I did an SOA and run 35's with some minor trimming why the fuck do you need to do a 3" body lift for 33's? Just run 4" lift springs it will be a blast, easy and cheap. Hell, I probably should have gone that way first time around, then I'd have the cash to get the damn thing running right again.

I am putting the 33's on because I already have them just sitting in storage. When they are wore out, I will most likly upgrade to 35's

[COLOR="red"][SIZE="7"][B]YOU MUST DO A CUT AND TURN WITH A SPRING OVER

[/QUOTE]

Man you guys love the CV! :flipoff2:

Mine handles great with a SOA and non-CV and uncut/unturned D44 front end.

With a reverse shackle no less.

:flipoff2:

CVs are only needed if your dealing with more than one Axis...

IE the X & Y axis (up & down/left & right).
If the yoke of tc & the axle pumpkin are in line, there is no need for a CV.

How high can you go?

I'm thinking if you want to stick with cheap and leaf springs.. get some Chevy 12" lift springs and fab up some hangers. Get the Chevy axles from the clapped out K5 while you're at it and throw 'em under SOA style (You'll want the extra width to keep from tipping)

You'll either need to go with a divorced transfercase hung a foot under the transmission, or switch to a 2wd transmission, point the rear diff at the output, and run a CV and then forget having a 4x4.

Or, if you still want cheap and 4x4, get some 2.5T top-loader Rockwells and sling under there, and that'll get the pinion yoke (OK, flange) up high enough that you stand a chance of getting a driveshaft into the thing that'll actually work.

Realistically? If you don't do a cut n' turn to bring the pinion up (or build a high pinion front end) you're going to wind up limit-strapping the front axle even after you grind the shit out of the yokes (BTDT).

My trail rig runs a 4" lift and I can't run a grease zerk in the front driveshaft U-joints because I tear 'em off.

My other rig runs SOA and extensive grinding and I still had to limit strap it.

If you go any higher, it just gets MUCH worse.. so even a 4" lift on top of the SOA and you're really limiting the down-travel to keep a driveshaft in it.

If you're building a Traveler with an extra 18" of wheelbase, move the engine back, or double up the t'cases, and life will be much better.

But, like everyone else keeps saying, for only 33s, a little sawzall goes a long way and will yield a better rig than going SOA will - unless you're just after *THE LOOK* in which case, these guys will stop holding back and proceed to mop the floor with you.

Reality is, even with an SOA, the 33s will rub.. my 31s rub with a SOA. So expect to cut, and if you expect to cut, you might as well cut before you do the SOA and waste the time and money on it.

You can go as high as you want to go.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/gustav129/Econovan.jpg

You can go as high as you want to go.
http://i150.photobucket.com/albums/s109/gustav129/Econovan.jpg

It's not that hard to find an over lifted scout. :flipoff2:

alright i havent read all the post but from what i gathered this post sucks!!

well labroc i got ya beat!! i got my scout for free!! which is way better then $0:flipoff2:

alright 18 and in high school... been there done that, i do like though how your on a budget, but yet when somebody mentions chevy parts, your all up and going on swappin the whole drive train out:eek: what the hell happened to the budget??

and how high can i go? what kind of fawkin question is that?:shaking:

so your a senior in high school you got 7k acres of land and have 18 years of exp. drivin on it... so WTF have youve been drivin since you were out of the womb?:shaking: fawkin dumbass!!

go do your SOA and 3in body lift, and stick 33's on it youll look excatly like that van! a big ass scout with small tires.:flipoff2:

Don't get me wrong, Practicalality is important. A truck that's trailered, or is just for looks is stupid and a waste of money. Just to clearify, this wont be my 100% daily driver, but I do plan on driving it once in a while. My main reason for doing this is that I am stuck in town and need something to occupy my time. I had a 98 ranger with the 3.0 and 5-speed that I was going to work on but with the IFS it was more then I wanted to tie into. Plus, I traded the pickup off for something a little better on gas since I got a 60 mile commute to the ranch twice a week.

As far as lifting is concerned, in the end, I would like to acheive no more 12''s. Now, this isn't gonna be with 33's still. By that time I will hopefully be up to 39's AT LEAST. And after doing some reading of the actual steps needed for the front SOA, my new question is if doing a rear SOA and a 4in SUA lift is alright, or if there is something wrong with that?

I am aware that you guys want me to leave and just shut my fawkin mouth, but if I can get an answer on here before I find it over the internet, I can move onto a different problem. Plus, I can get previous experience information which helps persuased on whether to do it or not. If I had not asked about the SOA on here, I wouldn't not have got so much hell abou it, and not concidered other options.

As far as being willing to switch into chevy parts is because I have three chevy vehicles laying over the hill that I can get parts off of. The reason for not working with them is that one has a broken frame(several times), 1 is the ol' mans, and the other is a van.

my new question is if doing a rear SOA and a 4in SUA lift is alright, or if there is something wrong with that?

I've been wheelin' my Scout with a 4" front/SOA rear for an awfully long time now.. heck, half of that time with 36" TSLs on the poor Dana 44s.

I can get an answer on here before I find it over the internet

Newsflash - PBB is on the Internet. :D

I ment searching 'round trying to find an answer smart ass:shaking:

dude obviously you know how to post questions. do you know how to read and search for info on your own?:shaking: i am new to this board also but have been on others for a while now. this is a pretty hardcore board and these guys have been nice to you and gave you plenty of info and places to start. i don't know why you would want to run four inch lift springs SOA and run 33's? because it looks cool? so chicks will dig you? here are some threads in a different board don't just look at the pretty pictures. READ THEM
and when you get done search for some other shit that intrest you and read more

http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?t=76453


http://www.binderbulletin.org/forums/showthread.php?t=73204


now go read and learn and stop makin yourself look like an ass

good luck gettin a 12" lift with a SOA in the rear and a 4" in the front... and 39.5's of dana 44's yeah hope you have lots of spare axle parts layin around in that big ol yard of yours...

No, I intended the SOA with stock springs in the rear and a SUA with 4in lift springs in the front just for now. This will give the amount of lift I am looking for until I decide to get serious and go with a much heavier axel, SOA on both ends, lift springs, and the body lift. That much work wont be for some time but the 4-5in lift achieved from the rear SOA and front SUA/Lift springs will do. My reasoning for the 3'' body lift was because I have a kit I purchased for my Ranger but didn't get installed. I planned on customizing it to work on the scout.

a truck that's trailered, or just for looks is stupid and a waste of money...

Damn, now I wish I wouldn't have bought that diesel dodge tow rig and put the effort into my trailer.:shaking: and all it took was a high school kid from Jerk Water, SD to show me the light. :laughing:

At least when mines on the trailer, people know its not for its looks.

I ment searching 'round trying to find an answer smart ass:shaking:

I believe the proper reponse is......




























eh hem......















































DRINK BLEACH ASS HAT!!

Tom is trying to help you, and he's a damn nice guy, so please partake of the bleach!

How high can I go?

That depends how much weed you smoke:eek:

enough with your how high questions go sign up for a course in physics, learn how to weld a roll cage to save you ass when you roll the pos trying to take a corner out on the ranch going over 10mph with your 3" body lift and then come back when you have learned that your scout needs the sawzall.

and then come back when you have learned that your scout needs the sawzall.

......and dont forget the BLUE latex gloves:flipoff2:

:laughing: grab a nail gun hold it to your temple and squeeze the trigger and cease the mindless questions that have no place here.
:laughing:
Nice post lurker. I am feeling the love.

Dear High Schooler:

Do the work yourself. Get dirty and get to freaking reading the threads on here.....tons of info. Don't be buying magazines. Everything is on Pirate. Everything. Don't forget it.

Damn, now I wish I wouldn't have bought that diesel dodge tow rig and put the effort into my trailer.:shaking: and all it took was a high school kid from Jerk Water, SD to show me the light. :laughing:

At least when mines on the trailer, people know its not for its looks.

Ditto!

Man I guess I'll be putting the tow rig and trailer on Craigslist in the morning and swapping some junk D44's back under the truck and getting serious...


Again -- go away -- read, google, study, research, and come back in a year.... :mad3::mad3:

As far as the work goes, I do plan on doing everthing possible on my own. That is the entire point of buying this Scout. Buying it and then sending it someplace to have the work done kind of defeats the purpose of trying to occupy my time along with blowin the budget out of the water.

I'm glad we finnaly got some bleach responses.

enough with your how high questions go sign up for a course in physics, learn how to weld a roll cage to save you ass when you roll the pos trying to take a corner out on the ranch going over 10mph with your 3" body lift and then come back when you have learned that your scout needs the sawzall.


Ok Mr.Physics...expain how a 3" Body lift HURTs your SOG for lifts since the body goes up and the Frame/drivetrain stays down.

forthe record: A 80% decent response.

Cody.............................













ASKING THE SAME SHIT OVER AND OVER DOES NOT CONSTITUE LEARNING

Now fuck off for a year.:mr-t:

I think the nOOb lurkers made up Cody to practice on....

Ok Mr.Physics...expain how a 3" Body lift HURTs your SOG ..............


SOG?:confused: Would that be COG? And yes a body lift does raise your COG but not as much as a suspension lift.

Ok Mr.Physics...expain how a 3" Body lift HURTs your SOG for lifts since the body goes up and the Frame/drivetrain stays down.


IF the body weighed nothing, then it wouldn't affect the COG OR the SOG (Senter Of Gravity) to lift it. :homer:

You're dumb. :shaking:

IF the body weighed nothing, then it wouldn't affect the COG OR the SOG (Senter Of Gravity) to lift it. :homer:

You're dumb. :shaking:

HA! I read this website so much I don't even notice typos and crap like that anymore. I knew what he meant and just went on. :shaking: I am going to take a shot of the bleach just for that.

I move for a One year IP banned. Make him GOGGLE for a year off site. All in favor?

IF the body weighed nothing, then it wouldn't affect the COG OR the SOG (Senter Of Gravity) to lift it. :homer:

You're dumb. :shaking:

Wonderful Mr. Physics is assisted by Mr.Spelling. Yes COG not SOG. And Mr.Spelling is aparently not Mr.Readingcomprehesion since it was stated "IN LIFTS". So in a LIFT something has to go up..what weighs more dumbshit???

You're dumb :shaking::shaking:

However this thread re-re-reminds me to not feed the noobs.

If you're just wanting to hammer through the mud... just stuff the biggest tires you can make fit with zero lift. I managed to get some POS Ground Hawg knock offs (hey, they were free and I was 16) to fit using just a cut off wheel and a sledge hammer. (sledge was for the inner fenderwells btw)
If you just wanna be tall for the sake of being tall... fuck off, drink bleach, kill yourself, etc...

Since all of the bleach has been consumed by the high-schoolers...I think they should move on to the anti-seize...

I hear it tastes like paste and does wonders for the digestive tract...

Seriously...I know that BEN W is alive so is Old Scout...we should have had a thread close waaaaaaaayyyyyyyy long ago...

NOW FUCKING SHUT-UP AND REEEEAAAADDDD KID...

Ok Mr.Physics...expain how a 3" Body lift HURTs your SOG for lifts since the body goes up and the Frame/drivetrain stays down.

forthe record: A 80% decent response.

Cody.............................

ASKING THE SAME SHIT OVER AND OVER DOES NOT CONSTITUE LEARNING

Now fuck off for a year.:mr-t:

I think the nOOb lurkers made up Cody to practice on....

Next time I will draw you a picture :D

I will agree that as I am a lurker and a NOOB to this site, however I have nothing to add as this site has covered just about everything. I was simply just telling the kid to do it his way and come back when he wants to try lifting his IH the correct way:shaking:

OK you fail.


The proper response to me should have been:



Dear NVScouter,

True my answer was misleading to the concept. However the concept remains the same: The higher he goes with no protection, the shorter life expectancy he has. While I fully understand that would remove him from the gene pool, at his age we may be premature with our death wishes.

So my basic advice still stands: Get a cage.


Thank you for your time,

Mr.Physics

OK you fail.


The proper response to me should have been:



Dear NVScouter,

True my answer was misleading to the concept. However the concept remains the same: The higher he goes with no protection, the shorter life expectancy he has. While I fully understand that would remove him from the gene pool, at his age we may be premature with our death wishes.

So my basic advice still stands: Get a cage.


Thank you for your time,

Mr.Physics


both of you just STFU!! along with this post topic... WHO REALLY CARES!!!!!

WOW :shaking: :eek: :flipoff2:

has it been a year yet?

Cliff notes?

It hasn't even been 2 months, why'd you drag this abortion out of the garbage and throw it back on the counter? Dipshit hasn't logged in since 3-07-08.

it's monday