Ok the shop that im working at is going to do a frame off on a 64 scout and it was assigned to me. I know nothing about them. I know im going to do a soa and axle swap and such. For springs a searched and found waggies to be a good choice (correct:confused: ) but was not too shure on the rear. also the costomer wants wider axles that the stock ones. What axles should I find? Its already got some type of V8 conversion mated to stock tranny and tcase(which is?????)

I know I just asked alot but any info is apeciated.

Dan

Hold on a second there. Before you do everything backwards like the Europeans (I t's a boot time you BC folk do things the right way) listen to what the Pirate folk have to say...

Use Scout II D44's for the widthh and strength and just add a SII proportioning valve to deal with the new breaks.

Add a SII Steering column and Waggy PS box with a SII pitman arm. You will want to use a PS pump out of a Travelall. I happen to have one for two thousand dollars.


Springs. Sure, use the 44044's, or, you can just bolt up YJ springs.

I assume this guys not hard-core cuz he's paying somebody to doo all his work. If he happens to be rich, I'd do the following...

Add Unimog Portals to a Land Rover drive train and push on some 44" swampers. Then cut the fenders a little more than Curtis did. (Hint, Search "Curtis")

Originally posted by crawlin cruiser
Its already got some type of V8 conversion mated to stock tranny and tcase(which is?????)


Dan


what motor

Originally posted by JoshC
you can just bolt up YJ springs.

As I understood it, it was the springs for the CJ Universal Jeep that bolt right up... not the YJs. The YJ's are wider (at least in the front) and have a flatter arch. It takes a 4" Heep lift spring, to provide 2 inches of actual lift in an 80/800 series Scout, due to their greater weight.

What engine has been transplanted into this critter, and are you sure its the original drivetrain?

Is the tranny that's in there manual, or automatic?

I agree with Josh about bolting up some SII axles. Keep 'em under an IH so the damn heep guys don't score another pair. Besides, if the guy is paying a shop to do all this work, and doesn't even know what kind of axles, etc, he is asking for, he definitely isn't hardcore enough to warrant anything heavier than the Scout II Dana 44s.

Originally posted by Sully


As I understood it, it was the springs for the CJ Universal Jeep that bolt right up... not the YJs. The YJ's are wider (at least in the front) and have a flatter arch. It takes a 4" Heep lift spring, to provide 2 inches of actual lift in an 80/800 series Scout, due to their greater weight.

What engine has been transplanted into this critter, and are you sure its the original drivetrain?

Is the tranny that's in there manual, or automatic?

I agree with Josh about bolting up some SII axles. Keep 'em under an IH so the damn heep guys don't score another pair. Besides, if the guy is paying a shop to do all this work, and doesn't even know what kind of axles, etc, he is asking for, he definitely isn't hardcore enough to warrant anything heavier than the Scout II Dana 44s.

:rolleyes:

I mean... I would swap in a Chevy LT1, and 3/4 or 1 Ton Drive train with a 4 link in the rear and F150 springs in the front.

I'd sell all the Scout shit to a jeep guy to make a few bucks to pay for the shop work.:flipoff2:

Originally posted by crawlin cruiser
Ok the shop that im working at is going to do a frame off on a 64 scout and it was assigned to me. I know nothing about them. I know im going to do a soa and axle swap and such. For springs a searched and found waggies to be a good choice (correct:confused: ) but was not too shure on the rear. also the costomer wants wider axles that the stock ones. What axles should I find? Its already got some type of V8 conversion mated to stock tranny and tcase(which is?????)

I know I just asked alot but any info is apeciated.

Dan If you work at a shop, and you guys can't tell what kind of engine, trany and tcase are in there, Thats pretty :rainbow:

:(

Hay CC

where ya woking in Coquiltam??? what shop???

I work at BLT on Schoolhouse

First of all Mike, I havnt evn seen this truck. So no I dont know what engine i was just told v8.

Cheif, im working in a shop in N.van

hopefully ill get some more info when I see it.

BTW are stock scout tranny, tcase srong? Or is this something you wanna swap out.


Thanks for the info sofar guys.

Dan

Check out the FAQ's at www.binderbulletin.org

what everyone else said...

plus, for your sig line you've done this to your cruiser... so you shouldn't be *too* unfamililar with 4x4's (even if you do have a toy :flipoff2:)

like I tell everyone, find out WHAT this person intends to do with this thing... is he hard core and has not fab skills, more $$ than time? Or a mall cruiser. Then build acordingly.

What size tires?? Why SOA?? Why RS?? and of course, (I'm sure you will share when you actually see the truck), but what motor, what tranny, what t-case (they may have been swaped out), stock would be like a t-14 3-speed (:barf: ), and a dana-18 t-case (good, but noisey). Motor could be anything and may very well be a hack job (beware)...


For a mall cruiser, D30 front would be OK, Chevy D44 fronts can be VERY easily cut down to fit SII shafts for a 60" front axle. You will need to cut-n-turn it to do it right.... Then deal with steering. Springs can be just about anything, Stock SII springs work well, you can also get 4" lift springs FOR the Scout 80/800...


no "set" formula.....

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
t-case (they may have been swaped out), stock would be like a t-14 3-speed (:barf: ), and a dana-18 t-case (good, but noisey). Motor could be anything and may very well be a hack job (beware)...


Actually, the Scout 80s and 800s never got the *mighty* T-14/T-15 3spd transmissions.

Noooo.. that was phased in around 1972/73 in the Scout II..

The Scout 80/800 would have the awe-inspiring T-90 3spd..

The T-90 in my '72 SII was swapped out for a '79 T15 before I bought it.. my buddy that owned it before me seemed to have split it in two.. and none of us really knew what "wheelin'" was then.. so there was no GETTING IT involved.. (well, maybe a different.. er.. never mind..)

OK...Everybody with a Scout II put down the keyboard and step back!:flipoff2:

1) yes, wagoneer springs wil fit on the front (I have them)..but they will not fit very easily and they will not sit level. You would be better off using YJ springs since they are a tad bit shorter. You do need to use a higher lift spring to obtain the lift you want..i.e 4" for ~ 2" lift, etc. This is all based on doing a shackle reversal..if you don't plan on doing one of these, then waggy springs will fit pretty easily.

I would use a waggy front axle, not the Scout II one. Alot of waggy's came with flat-top knuckles and the smal bearing spindles. this is easy to convert over to 5 on 5.5 using ford rotors and bearing hubs. This will allow you to run internal locking hubs and stronger stub shafts. The overall wms to wms width will be ~62" then.

For the rear: if the guy is willing to pay, cut a D60 down and make a sf60 for the rear. Do a disk brake swap on it and call it good. If he's being a cheapass, then swap in a Scout II D44 rear.

That's all..my work is done here!

:smokin:

Originally posted by Scout Dude
OK...Everybody with a Scout II put down the keyboard and step back!:flipoff2:


:D :beer:

Originally posted by Scout Dude
OK...Everybody with a Scout II put down the keyboard and step back!:flipoff2:


What if you ALSO own some 800s? :flipoff2:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


What if you ALSO own some 800s? :flipoff2:

Tom, don't ruin my joke!:flipoff2:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


What if you ALSO own some 800s? :flipoff2:

hmm, I can stay here...


'62 80, '69 800, '71 SII, '72/'73 (havent checked yet) SII, '76-ish SII (new tub), '72 t-lette.....


man, I'm down on my stock.... :D

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


hmm, I can stay here...


'62 80, '69 800, '71 SII, '72/'73 (havent checked yet) SII, '76-ish SII (new tub), '72 t-lette.....


man, I'm down on my stock.... :D

Tell us again what springs, axles, engines, and power steering you've swapped into the 80 & the 800.

Originally posted by Ben W


Tell us again what springs, axles, engines, and power steering you've swapped into the 80 & the 800.

Why would he want to do that? It'll lower resale value and collectibility!

Originally posted by Ben W


Tell us again what springs, axles, engines, and power steering you've swapped into the 80 & the 800.

what?!? he didn't say anything about swaping stuff into them.... just if we didn't have one :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by tsm1mt


Why would he want to do that? It'll lower resale value and collectibility!

damn strait!!


that rolled 800 would loose ALL its value if I swaped parts...


it still runs though.....

IH guys:rolleyes: :flipoff2:

ok I looked at the truck today

ford v8

3spd manual

some sorta dana tcase w/pto

this truck is fuct. the tcase is offset to passenger side, but is running a centered rear axle. Is this normal?

ive only delt with cruisers and other toyotas Im so far out on this one. Its cool though cus now I get to learn about this crap. Now I can BS with you guys and pretend I know what Im talkin about:D

BTW boss said this is going to be a penis extension for the costomer:flipoff2: hes not gonna wheel it

Originally posted by crawlin cruiser


this truck is fuct. the tcase is offset to passenger side, but is running a centered rear axle. Is this normal?


Welcome to 1st generation Scouts;) ...Probably the stock t90 3 speed with a model 18 t-case...

Anyway..like I said earlier: waggy front axle with ford rotors/hubs
4" YJ springs 35 or 36" tires with some lowered bumpstops or minor fender trimming. Rear d60 cut down with sf ends installed and dutchman 35 spline axles..rear disk set up..need to swap the master cylinder too..I used a 77 camaro one..just about any dual resevoir will work though. ..that outta get ya going...

thanks for your help:)

Originally posted by crawlin cruiser

ford v8

3spd manual

BTW boss said this is going to be a penis extension for the costomer:flipoff2: hes not gonna wheel it

With the Fud V8, swap a T18 in there, or a slush box.

If you go with Scout II 44's you'll be able to find a lot of information on the Binder, if you run all waggy then you can even run an offset 44 in the rear.

Joe

Originally posted by Scout Dude
.....waggy front axle with ford rotors/hubs
4" YJ springs 35 or 36" tires with some lowered bumpstops or minor fender trimming. Rear d60 cut down with sf ends installed and dutchman 35 spline axles..rear disk set up..need to swap the master cylinder too..I used a 77 camaro one..just about any dual resevoir...

If this is a mall cruiser... why a SF D60 with 35-splines??

Seems to me a standard Scout II D44 would be plenty with 35/36's...

Unless the guy want to pay for it of course :D :D



4.56 gears would sound about right as well... still strong, but streetable..

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite


If this is a mall cruiser... why a SF D60 with 35-splines??

Seems to me a standard Scout II D44 would be plenty with 35/36's...

Unless the guy want to pay for it of course :D :D



4.56 gears would sound about right as well... still strong, but streetable..

Because the Chrome diff cover for a 60 looks a whole lot better..and Dutchman puts neat little stickers on their axle flanges so they will show well too!:flipoff2:


O-yeah...forgot to mention earlier...swap the model 18 t-case for a model 20...but put the 18 gears into the 20 so that he can crawl over curbs even slower. This will get you a centered rear output.

SO what exactly is the benefit swapping into a d-20. You can't flat tow with this case because of the oiling configuration. I know there is some talk over the d-18's smaller midshaft diameter, but the late d-18's seem to have the large 1.25' shaft. Does the d-18's off center driveline position create an driveline wobble issue when mathched to an "almost" centered axle?

I really don't see a need to swap cases. The d-18 will allows a provision for the Warn O/D (saturn)

Cheers!


:D :nuke:

Originally posted by iscout62
SO what exactly is the benefit swapping into a d-20. You can't flat tow with this case because of the oiling configuration. I know there is some talk over the d-18's smaller midshaft diameter, but the late d-18's seem to have the large 1.25' shaft. Does the d-18's off center driveline position create an driveline wobble issue when mathched to an "almost" centered axle?

I really don't see a need to swap cases. The d-18 will allows a provision for the Warn O/D (saturn)

Cheers!


:D :nuke:

Well, there's the less wear because half the case isn't turning all the time.. which also makes it quieter..

and then there's the strength. The straight-through rear output is stronger than the offset rear output.. oh, and the fine-spline output shafts.. and...

I don't think the Warn OD would like my right foot, anyhow..

I see,

Will all of the d-18 internals swap over to the d-20 case? It can't be that easy. :flipoff2:

Originally posted by iscout62
I see,

Will all of the d-18 internals swap over to the d-20 case? It can't be that easy. :flipoff2:

More or less, but you'll need the Bronco Dana 20 slider gear, too... and to do some grinding. :D

Originally posted by iscout62
SO what exactly is the benefit swapping into a d-20. You can't flat tow with this case because of the oiling configuration. I know there is some talk over the d-18's smaller midshaft diameter, but the late d-18's seem to have the large 1.25' shaft. Does the d-18's off center driveline position create an driveline wobble issue when mathched to an "almost" centered axle?

I really don't see a need to swap cases. The d-18 will allows a provision for the Warn O/D (saturn)

Cheers!


:D :nuke:
If this is a 'penis extension' then the words flat tow probably means calling AAA because there isn't any air in the tire(s).

As far a I know you can flat tow D18's and D20's but not 300's. I can't say for the Fud 20.

Joe

since when can you not flat tow with a D20??!?!


I thought that was just the D300......



tom, did you used to pull the rear shaft?

Originally posted by TORC

If this is a 'penis extension' then the words flat tow probably means calling AAA because there isn't any air in the tire(s).

He is probably thinking about his own 62 Scout...not the P.E. dude:flipoff2:

BTW, you guys ever seen a Model 20 Overdrive?













































































want to?;)

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite
since when can you not flat tow with a D20??!?!


I thought that was just the D300......



tom, did you used to pull the rear shaft?

All three cases are pretty darn near the same thing, guys.

I bet you could flat-tow the Dana 18 w/o pulling the 'shaft, since all of the gears spin all of the time anyhow.

But with a 20 or 300, you should either turn the front hubs in, or pull the rear 'shaft.

If I was going across town, I turned the hubs in, 'case in Neutral.

If I went more than 60 miles, hubs out, 'shaft unbolted.

Flat-tows just fine with the rear driveshaft unhooked. :D

What do I know.. I've only put 10,000 miles on my Scout flat-towing. :flipoff2:

WERD.

lol.
:flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

Originally posted by Scout Dude
BTW, you guys ever seen a Model 20 Overdrive?


want to?;)

No :flipoff2:

Bolts in place of the rear output? Saw one on E-bay a while back. You should sell it, might pay for the new trany.

Originally posted by jdjanda


No :flipoff2:

Bolts in place of the rear output? Saw one on E-bay a while back. You should sell it, might pay for the new trany.

Actually, I traded 4 cases of beer for it a while ago from SCWAfish...then decided to go Atlas..so I sold it for around $450...:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Scout Dude


Actually, I traded 4 cases of beer for it a while ago from SCWAfish...then decided to go Atlas..so I sold it for around $450...:flipoff2:

WOW.. I bought a 3spd Brownie for less than half that price.. and probably rated for 2x the input torque, too. :D

Hmm.. if I turn the 1.2 and 1.5 UD Brownie around, that'd give me a helluva OD... :D