I am looking at the JB conversions sye, the super short one, new high angle yoke and all that jazz. But im wondering if there is a yoke i could put on here to eliminate the velocity joint and run a conventional 2 ujoint shaft?? I am currently running a 1310 cv shaft in the rear, but it is almost maxed out as far as angle and i know i can get more angle out of a u joint shaft because thats what i had to do in the front... Swapped my front t-case yoke out for a dana 44 pinion yoke to run u joints up front....

Did you delete your other thread and start a new one? With the exact same question? It still doesn't make sense...

A Double Cardan will have 3 u-joints (two @ the t-case and one @ the axle), stock will only have 2 (1 @ the axle and 1 @ the t-case)

So you think lengthening the drive shaft the 3-4 inches (MAX) from removing the Double Cardan driveshaft will give you any better Drive shaft angle than before?

Here, read from an expert (which I am not):
Tom Woods (http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html) Click on tech Info --> Then Geometry 101.

dear... okay, a stock front xj driveshaft will not drop far enough to work for me so i swapped yokes and made a u joint drive shaft. That tells me that a ujoint shaft will have more working angle than a cv unless i spend a million dollars on a 42 or 80 or whatever degree joint.

So anyway, is anyone running a non cv rear driveshaft???

So anyway, is anyone running a non cv rear driveshaft???

Every stock XJ everywhere....
I've got a 3" lift on my '92 XJ with a stock rear drive shaft, going to swap it out for an Hack n tap SYE with a stock front drive shaft used in the rear. It eats a u-joint about once a year, 1 of 2 on the drive shaft, its kinda random which one it is.

Yes you can do a single joint in the rear, and get a little more angle out of it (but at the expense of more vibration). Also remember that the strength of that joint goes down quickly once you get near its max angle.

I'm running a single jointed shaft in the front of my rig for the same reasons you're looking at. Between a low-pinion axle, a flat-clocked t-case, and a lot of suspension travel, the angle gets pretty gnarly. I burned up a stock CV shaft in two trips so I swapped it to the single joint (using the same thing, a D44 u-bolt yoke) and haven't had issues since.

Just remember that you'll want to have the angle shared equally between the t-case output and the axle yoke.

Listen to Vetteboy. I am running the same setup as him after finding out the double cardon sucks balls. Unless you get that super $$$ one you were talking about the single U joint is the way to go. The single doest take up as much space either.


Burns

okay. so i see you have a doubler and a 300 so you can get a non cv yoke on the 300 output easy. Im asking if anyone knows how or where to get a rear non cv yoke to go onto a 231 with a 32 spline upgraded shaft???????

also vetteboy: do you run a 2 u-joint shaft in the rear???

okay. so i see you have a doubler and a 300 so you can get a non cv yoke on the 300 output easy. Im asking if anyone knows how or where to get a rear non cv yoke to go onto a 231 with a 32 spline upgraded shaft???????

also vetteboy: do you run a 2 u-joint shaft in the rear???

Is you drive shaft 1310 or 1330, you could probably use Spicer part number 2-4-5521 found here:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NP-205-203-Yoke-32-Spline-1330-Non-CV-Strap-Style_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el12 47QQcategoryZ33738QQihZ003QQitemZ130186023799QQrdZ 1QQsspagenameZWD1V

and run a conversion ujoint if you shaft is setup for 1310. 5-134x

right now i am running 1310 but 1350 at the diff. I will be upgrading to 1350 tcase end. So a 205 32 spline will fit the 32 spline sye shafts huh. And i guess i would have to have someone measure out me a seal if the yokes were not exactly the same...

Jesse at High Angle Drivelines should be able to build a 1350 double cardan shaft that can handle your angles and abuse. He will answer any questions you have.

http://www.highangledriveline.com/

I know on some yokes, you can drop u-bolts down through the holes where the through-bolts for the CV goes. I forget if it's all of 'em or just certain sizes.

I've got a regular 1310 CV shaft in the rear of mine because I don't have all that much travel at the diff center, and I wanted the pinion angle as high as possible. The front situation is a lot worse.

Also keep in mind that a 1350 is rated for less angle than a 1310.

I know on some yokes, you can drop u-bolts down through the holes where the through-bolts for the CV goes. I forget if it's all of 'em or just certain sizes.

I've got a regular 1310 CV shaft in the rear of mine because I don't have all that much travel at the diff center, and I wanted the pinion angle as high as possible. The front situation is a lot worse.

Also keep in mind that a 1350 is rated for less angle than a 1310.


It has to have a ton of droop to need more flex then 32 degrees of angle a H.A.D. 1350 CV joint has.

If you need more flex then that there is always a 42 degree 1410 set-up.

I like the CV shafts because they help keep the driveshaft out of harms way...

:flipoff2:

Im running the worst drive line:flipoff2:
A single 1350 offset high missalignment with a 3in 250wall drive shaft tube...
Its like a back masage on the way back to the trailer. Its at about a 25 degree operating angle with the long sbc350-th400-203-205

It should last me through the year, but the High dolar CV is the way to go. Some day...

My front is also a non CV.

The toyota CVs are pretty beef and better mis alignem compared to stock 1310 that might be a good option for you. I want the bigger 1350 stuff.

ashman: when you say offset high misalignment are you meaning like those off set u joints like tom woods sells???

any pics of it in your build thread??