Ok I just want to make sure before I buy tomorrow. I'm putting a 2wd box on my truck and doing cross and hi-steer. I'm just curious if I need a drop pitman arm to make it work or not? I have a 6 inch lift, and dana 60 with hi-steer arms. Will a stock arm work or do I need a drop?

EDIT: By the way, it an 84 4x4

You can't use the 4WD arm w/ the 2WD box if that's what you're asking. If you are suggesting you could use a stock 2WD arm, I'd say no. I imagine it would all fit together fine, but the angles on the draglink ends would be terrible, and the draglink would not be nearly as horizontal as with a drop arm (leading to increased bump-steer). On the plus side, it probably wouldn't be as hard on the frame, but that's a whole 'nuther problem to be solved separately... Get the drop arm.

I would not suggest a dropped arm using a lift shorter than 8 inches. the arm will end up too close to the spring, and you wont like the results on jounce.

Yeah I was talking about a 2wd arm but I think I'll just get the drop arm just to play it safe. Frame is already plated at the box so frame shoudn't be a problem. Thanks for the quick reply :D I'm going to go buy my parts tomorrow morning

never mind then.

I would not suggest a dropped arm using a lift shorter than 8 inches. the arm will end up too close to the spring, and you wont like the results on jounce.

Lol ok now I'm not sure.... so the arm will be pretty close to the spring? hmmm..... how are the angles with a stock arm?

I've been running a 4" drop pitman with 4" leaves (Came in TC kit) for about 5 years with no problems. I know what you are saying though. I've thought about it myself because the spring looks mighty close to the draglink end, but I've never had any contact whatsoever, and I've stuffed her pretty hard a few times... I do have the HD springs though, so it won't stuff as easily as some will. My truck wouldn't necessarily have to have the drop pitman, but for 6"... I'd say you're getting there. If I had a straight draglink (rather than the "S" curved ORD unit), I would still have angularity at the ends despite the drop pitman. With the curved draglink, my ends are just about perfectly 90* to the DL.

i put 57 inch springs up front. moved the hanger forward, dropped it 2 inches. used a long shackle to promote flex.

knocked the grease fitting off of my TRE on flex. arm had 1.5 inch drop total. used 14 inch travel shocks on custom mounts. LOTS of flex. had to put a panhard bar in it to limit sideways travel. Still had huge flex. TRE grease fitting dies an honorable death.

i put 57 inch springs up front. moved the hanger forward, dropped it 2 inches. used a long shackle to promote flex.

knocked the grease fitting off of my TRE on flex. arm had 1.5 inch drop total. used 14 inch travel shocks on custom mounts. LOTS of flex. had to put a panhard bar in it to limit sideways travel. Still had huge flex. TRE grease fitting dies an honorable death.

See I just have 6 inch front lift springs that I'm using. So there is not really HUGE flex but they still flex ok. I just looked on ORD's site and in this picture it looks like if I didn't have a drop arm then there might be a problem with angles. And those springs look like they are about a 4 inch lift....

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/2919/d60crossoveraxlewb2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

i put 57 inch springs up front. moved the hanger forward, dropped it 2 inches. used a long shackle to promote flex.

knocked the grease fitting off of my TRE on flex. arm had 1.5 inch drop total. used 14 inch travel shocks on custom mounts. LOTS of flex. had to put a panhard bar in it to limit sideways travel. Still had huge flex. TRE grease fitting dies an honorable death.


Yeah, I was just gonna say this is assuming stock length springs. I could see a problem with long springs and more flex. I think, with stock length springs, the front hanger is back just far enough that it isn't an issue (at least it hasn't been for me). My shocks may also limit my compression on a hard landing (although they do not under just the static weight with the front articulated).

See I just have 6 inch front lift springs that I'm using. So there is not really HUGE flex but they still flex ok. I just looked on ORD's site and in this picture it looks like if I didn't have a drop arm then there might be a problem with angles. And those springs look like they are about a 4 inch lift....

http://img394.imageshack.us/img394/2919/d60crossoveraxlewb2.jpg (http://imageshack.us)


That's just about exactly what mine looks like. I've even got the same ORD X-over (no hi-steer). It will get somewhat close under full articulation, but mine won't flex enough to make contact. Now if I had the 56s I've been thinking about swapping in...


Out of curiosity, what X-over kit are you using?

That's just about exactly what mine looks like. I've even got the same ORD X-over (no hi-steer). It will get somewhat close under full articulation, but mine won't flex enough to make contact. Now if I had the 56s I've been thinking about swapping in...


Out of curiosity, what X-over kit are you using?

I didn't buy a kit, I bought a set of hi-steer arms from JKW Offroad and now I'm going to buy a box and possibly a drop pitman arm then build a drag link to connect the two. I'm going to have a straight drag link with no bends so it will put more angle at each end..... I know a drop pitman will help with the angles but I don't want to be hitting it on the springs.

Should I just wait to buy the pitman til I get the box in and springs in and check the angle? The only thing is if I don't get my parts tomorrow then I have to wait til Monday...

i got a six inch supention lift with a dana 60 and have a 4inch dropped pitman arm and dont have any kinda problem with it even coming close to anything. this is the best picture i have of the set up.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y14/abig84/14boltdana60swap6.jpg

Well, I gave you my opinion, but Grumpy does know his shit so I wouldn't disregard what he has to say either. Like I said, for what you want to do, using a basically stock but lifted suspension, I think you'll be fine with the drop pitman. If you're planning on running a straight DL, that's even more reason. When you start looking at longer springs, more flex, etc..., it might be a different ball game.The only really credible info (meaning 1st hand experience) I can give you is that it has worked fine for me, and I've given it every opportunity (and then some) to make contact. Like I said, I do have stiffer HD springs, but also only 4" lift in front, so take that as you will.


EDIT: One thing I hadn't thought of is you might very well be into the crossmember with a straight DL and no drop in the pitman. That is something I'd definitely check before you make a decision. Honestly, with only 4" springs, I'm not sure I could run a straight DL even WITH the drop pitman.

knocked the grease fitting off of my TRE on flex.



Well hell, I can tell you how to cure that problem; you need some of those new 300M grease zerks... Bling bling!!:grinpimp:

They'd look so nice next to that chromed steering box and 700r4... :flipoff2::flipoff2:

lmfao!

I guess I can see where using stock length springs will keep it from flexing to the point where the parts might not interfere. The DL might need a kink in it. I know mine did. I ended up using .375 wall DOM tubing as a DL and inserting sleeves into it for TRE's to screw into. I have the comfort of knowing that it could double as a prybar.

i had the ford pitman arm that I got from ORD. With my setup with 52s I bit the arm on the spring and broke the steering gear housing mounting tabs. Since then I have gotten a jeep arm and had to grind the stud of the DLE to clear my frame just a tad. Call WFO concept, they realy know their stuff and get me setup.

Thanks for all of the suggestions :D I ended up buying a drop pitman arm.