I hope I won't get flamed too bad for this, but my rig's at the point where I want to go big(ger) or go home. Currently I have waggy D44s with 4.88 gears and locked all around. So far I've done all my work myself including regears and now I want to go SOA. I've got a few ideas kicking around and I just need input. I want to use waggy springs up front and possibly XJ springs in the rear to stretch my wheelbase or I may just go waggy all around. I've got a couple of leads on 3/4 ton and 1 ton chevy's to get axles from so my biggest question is whether to keep my stock engine and tranny and just use a D300 or would I be better off to swap in a sm465 and 203 or 205? While I'm at it swapping in a 350 doesn't sound bad either. I've built my jeep up in many stages (yes i even used a polished turdy 5 for a while) and this time i want to hopefully kill any urges to go bigger. I've loved my 4.0 so far but swapping in a whole chevy drivetrain almost seems cheaper than all the adapters needed to put a 465 behind the 4.0 I've read about this for months as far as how to do each swap, I just want personal experiences as far as how it works for you and what you'd do different. Here's what I'm working with now. works well but flexes like shit. http://wrangler94.jeeps-offroad.com/rotm%20pics/DSCN0141sized.jpg

Why do a Chev 350 like everyone else? Find an Olds 455 and shoehorn it in. Torque city! As far as experience, not in my YJ, but I had one in my Oldsmobile and it would walk up Vail pass, or any other like nobodys business.

I would do a spring over for better flex and lift.:D that will help you alot.

Why do a Chev 350 like everyone else? Find an Olds 455 and shoehorn it in. Torque city! As far as experience, not in my YJ, but I had one in my Oldsmobile and it would walk up Vail pass, or any other like nobodys business.
That's why I posted up. I have access to all kinds of engines so I wanted to make the most informed decision possible. I am open to any and all ideas.
I would do a spring over for better flex and lift.:D that will help you alot.
I'm going spring over, no doubt. I started out with the idea of swapping in a Chevy d44 front with flat tops because I bought the housing for the flat tops already and it's already set up for spring over. I was going to swap in all my D44 parts because my waggy front is fairly new anyway with all new bearings and seals. Finding a suitable 6 lug full width rear axle to match and having to go to pass. drop convinced me to go all out :grinpimp:
I've got a potential buyer for my axles, and for my whole drivetrain if i swap it all out, so I'm weighing all my options.

EDIT: I also at one time considered swapping and flipping a D300 and keeping the axles I have, but dumping money in a flip kit seems like a waste of good money that could be spent elsewhere like axles and new exhaust that i need anyway.

[QUOTE=Drummer79;7991010] . . . Well I've loved my 4.0 so far but swapping in a whole chevy drivetrain almost seems cheaper than all the adapters needed to put a 465 behind the 4.0. . . . [QUOTE]

throw a T-3/TO4 turbo on that thing and call it a day:flipoff2:

My thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=658004

throw a T-3/TO4 turbo on that thing and call it a day:flipoff2:

My thread:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=658004

Awesome build man! That would be sweet. I haven't thought of that, but I did consider swapping in a diesel..even better if i could get one with a jake brake. Imagine crawling down a mountain with that :smokin:

I think a better suspension and maybe better axles would go a lot farther than a bigger engine for performance...



but I live on the west coast...

Why do a Chev 350 like everyone else?

Cause they're inexpensive and work well.

big block = too heavy for a rock crawler.

What size tires will u run?

why not keep the d300 and do 4:1 gears. and then you wouldnt have to get a chain driven chevy tcase

Cause they're inexpensive and work well.

big block = too heavy for a rock crawler.

What size tires will u run?
I'll run at least a 37 with spring over. My biggest possible reason for running a sbc would be if I swapped in a SM465 for the first gear ratio so that I don't have to adapt to teh 4.0

why not keep the d300 and do 4:1 gears. and then you wouldnt have to get a chain driven chevy tcase
A D300 is definitely a first choice unless I decide the AX 15 isn't worth trying to continue using.

Cause they're inexpensive and work well.

big block = too heavy for a rock crawler.

What size tires will u run?

not a 500inch caddy motor though:D

Don't waste your time doing SOA. Link it!:shaking:

Or if you dont have the money to link it, go SOA! I think A good SOA setup will do fine for a "trail only unit" That being said, I would be intrested in buying your front/rear d44s. Also, from the looks of your jeep I think I have talked to you at URE!

or if you dont have the money to link it, go SOA> I think A good SOA will do fine for a "trail only unit" That being said, I would be intrested in buying you rear d44. Also< from the looks of your jeep I think I have talked to you at URE!!

It's entirely possible. I was there several times last year. Were you one of the guys camped next to my group or did we meet on teh trail? What were you driving? I'm definitely going to go SOA. Call me hard headed, but I like leaf springs :D

hard headed...but do what you want. Links arent for everyone.

I might have missed it, but what size tires do you want to run? That will kinda change the route you should go.

I might have missed it, but what size tires do you want to run? That will kinda change the route you should go.

At least a 37, otherwise the 14 bolt will be an anchor.

hard headed...but do what you want. Links arent for everyone.

I'll be the first to admit links flex awesome when set up right, I just don't know that I could tackle the link calculations on my own yet. (not to mention leaf springs are potentially cheaper to set up) you're from Greenville too? I've probably seen you around somewhere.

My brother and I are about to start the build on his 87' Yj. He bought it with a 2.5 " Rancho lift. He wants to run 37-38 inch tires. He wants to build it kinda cheap yet still be able to hit hard trails.

We're planning SOA with the Rancho springs, rear stretch about 5-6"s AX-15 swap (they hold up well with a moderate right foot) Dana 300 Pass drop, 44 front and 9" rear full width 5.13ish gears and EFI conversion. If it sits to high, I have a ton of springs laying around and we'll build a hybrid pack.

If you're planning on one day moving up to 40" + tire range I'd go 14 bolt and 60. Not to sure about the doubler unless your stretching your wheel base cause it's going to be longer. I found on a search Sm465 and doubler at 37.75"s (I think that's without bellhousing) so measure first. I would definatly SOA, but calculating for links really isn't as hard as it seems, but much more expensive. As far as the 350 swap if you like availible power or want to run 40+ then you might as well drop in a 350 lots of parts avalible and cheap to work on.

It is Tuesday today even if it was Monday...

60/14 Spring over or Coils and links

Sell the the 300 and buy a STack

Keep the engine until it pukes

It's entirely possible. I was there several times last year. Were you one of the guys camped next to my group or did we meet on teh trail? What were you driving? I'm definitely going to go SOA. Call me hard headed, but I like leaf springs :D


We camped beside you. My buddy had the tubed out yota. If you do decide to sell those axles, let me know. They are exactly what I am looking for to put in my mildly built yj. Also, I have a friend who has a set of chevy 3/4 tons for sale. 8 lug 14bolt/d44. He said he thought they are 4.10s. Let me know if you are intrested!

We camped beside you. My buddy had the tubed out yota. If you do decide to sell those axles, let me know. They are exactly what I am looking for to put in my mildly built yj. Also, I have a friend who has a set of chevy 3/4 tons for sale. 8 lug 14bolt/d44. He said he thought they are 4.10s. Let me know if you are intrested!

I've got access to a set of 3/4 ton Chevy axles. I'm just not sure I want to put in a D44 up front. If i do I'm afraid I'll be wanting to go with a 60 later so I kinda want to do it all now. It's very tempting though because I can get the whole truck for $500 and scrap the rest to pay for the axles. Decisions, decisions...

i run the 3/4 ton axles and they work fine with my 38's (also put alloy usa chromo's in though) But now im at the point were i want a bigger tire so im looking for a chevy front 60. It depends on what you want. Do you want to go huge and trailer it, or do you want to keep it in reason and still drive it? my cj-7 has a mildly built 360, Turbo 400, and a dana-300. Works great, but its also alittle heavier then i like.

hope this helps

I wouldn't go with the waggy leaves, they bend/break way to easily.

go with a built 9" rear,60 or 14bolt....... but for the front go 60.... so if you do want biger tires you wont need to change housings

run the D300 wit hthe motor/tranny you have now and a chevy front

im running a cj with 14b/60 combo. waggy springs on front and CJ's on rear. running a 304 witha T18 flexes good and has enough power to go. i havent decided to go TBI or propane on it yet though

go with a built 9" rear,60 or 14bolt....... but for the front go 60.... so if you do want biger tires you wont need to change housings

run the D300 wit hthe motor/tranny you have now and a chevy front

im running a cj with 14b/60 combo. waggy springs on front and CJ's on rear. running a 304 witha T18 flexes good and has enough power to go. i havent decided to go TBI or propane on it yet though

This is teh route I'm most likely to go. I'd love a Stak or Atlas, but I can't drop 2 grand on it all at once. I can however get a D300 and build it slowly. like wheeling on lay-away :D
I'm not too worried about breaking waggy leaves, from what I've seen over compressing them or getting them drooped far enough to bind are the major killers for them. Either way, if I start breaking them I can get alcans or something at that point.

dude, if i was you, i would swap the 350/465/203 if you can get your hands on one. that will give you a great reliable drivetrain. then when you are tired of that or out grow your gearing, just slap a doubler kit on there and go. i made the mistake of getting the 465/205 combo behind my 350 and i have no gearing options except the lowmax 3:1 which does not give me much bang for the buck.

swap that now, save for the axles and run what you have now. the next step would be spring over, that will allow for some bigger meats then you will probably start breaking stuff. that would be a good time to swap in the bigger axles.

its all a progression but if you do it right, you can wheel some inbetween the steps. unless you like being down for months at a time with nothing to ride the trails

dude, if i was you, i would swap the 350/465/203 if you can get your hands on one. that will give you a great reliable drivetrain. then when you are tired of that or out grow your gearing, just slap a doubler kit on there and go. i made the mistake of getting the 465/205 combo behind my 350 and i have no gearing options except the lowmax 3:1 which does not give me much bang for the buck.

swap that now, save for the axles and run what you have now. the next step would be spring over, that will allow for some bigger meats then you will probably start breaking stuff. that would be a good time to swap in the bigger axles.

its all a progression but if you do it right, you can wheel some inbetween the steps. unless you like being down for months at a time with nothing to ride the trails

My only trouble with that idea is that if i swap in a 203 my front waggy axle is useless. Ideally I'm going to find everything i need for whatever swap I do and build that stuff up or begin to before i sell my current axles. That way I can still wheel until i'm ready to swap.
EDIT: on that train of thought though, I may go ahead and go spring over now with the axles I have, if anything it will make them easier to sell if they can be installed SOA or SUA.

If you do the SOA now and do the correct steering that should go along with the SOA, would you not have to redo the steering again if you decided to do fullwidths? I would think so. I would leave it like it is until you have collected all your parts. Then build the hell out of it over the matter of a few weeks! Just my $0.02!

good point, i forgot about your existing axles. just keep in mind when building about cheap future gearing upgrades. i totally neglected them and now im stuck where im at without paying a couple grand for more gear.

soa is a great cheap stepping stone. what size tires are you looking at?

good point, i forgot about your existing axles. just keep in mind when building about cheap future gearing upgrades. i totally neglected them and now im stuck where im at without paying a couple grand for more gear.

soa is a great cheap stepping stone. what size tires are you looking at?

at least 37s, maybe even 39.5 inch IROKS though. got any insight or writeups on swapping in the chevy drivetrain you have in your jeep? from the looks of things i can swap in a whole engine/tranny combo from a wrecked truck cheaper than doing all the random ass adapter bell housings and stuff.

I personally really like the 4.0. It's getting more rare to actually see them in well build rigs anymore, which is a shame.

I don't know where or how you wheel, so I will give you my experiances.

I have widetrack J-truck 44's (5.38) and 36" tires. I have a 4.0, AX-15, and D300 with Tera gears. Rear is a spool, front is an Aussie locker. Steering is highsteer with Chevy TRE's and hydro assist. Stock shafts F/R so far with cryo 760's up front.

The suspension is SOA at about 101". The main eye hangers are frenched into the frame and that lowered the Jeep by about 1.5". Overall I'm about 5" of lift.

Before I lowered and stretched it, everything was pretty much great. I liked the way it wheeled, and it was fun. I couldn't do everyting the guys in my group with 100+" of wheelbase and 37's to 40's were though. Which was probably good for my drivetrain.

The stretch/lowering made a night and day difference in how it climbed/wheeled. I find my self getting into tougher situations, keeping up with everyone, and having a lot more fun.

I'm pretty much at the limit of stock front and rear shafts though. I have my caps welded in the front and that seems to have solved any u-joint issues I had. I'm also on my 4th AX-15, and it's getting ready to die.

My advice to you is, D44's are pretty capable of handling stock power, 4 to 1, and 37's. I think that alloy shafts are probably a good idea, and I am on borrowed time without them. So now I am either looking at spending $800 for shafts all around and still having 30 spline rears.

Moser sells 9" 35 spline shafts and a spool, any length and bolt pattern you want for $510. That makes it really hard not to run a rear 9" for me, and I think that is where I am heading. I have taken out one rear ring and pinion, but that is due to lubrication negligence on my part.

As far as a front axle... if you can handle the size and weight of a 60, you can sometimes nab one for the cost of alloy shafts for a 44... that makes it pretty hard not to just buy a 60. I don't really want the size nor weight... so i am torn between alloy shafts for my 44, or building a 609.

So for sure ditch the AX-15. I have an NV3550 waiting for me to rebuild it... I don't really want to spend the $$ on adapters for anything else, maybe this will last a little longer.

Hope this rambling helps somehow. Here is a link to my buildup.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=630976

I personally really like the 4.0. It's getting more rare to actually see them in well build rigs anymore, which is a shame.

I don't know where or how you wheel, so I will give you my experiances.......

Hope this rambling helps somehow. Here is a link to my buildup.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=630976

That is my trouble too. I love my 4.0, and for the wheeling around here I like the stance and ride height I have now. I do wish I could get better flex..but I've been brainstorming with a buddy who does fab work tonight and we've got a few tricks to try out. There's not much of anything around here I can't run on 35's but better flex is a must. I've put a lot of time and money in building these axles too so I hate to just junk them and start over, especially since a D60 costs so much just for the housing, not to mention bigger brakes, new wheels again, bigger tires, etc. My AX 15 still shifts fine but it leaks around the shifter somewhere and I'd like to swap in something else.
I guess the point I'm trying to make is i don't NEED bigger axles, I just need better flex and 4:1 and a new tranny would be nice. SOA provides better flex, and going pass drop chevy axles are set up for SOA and would elminate need for a flip kit on a D300. Of course then you're still looking at adapters and all. I'm just looking for the best overall solution because spending a grand on adapters seems dumb compared to spending that money on something to actually beef up the drive train.
Joe and I are tossing around the idea of rebuilding the suspension mounts and cutting more sheetmetal, using flatter springs, stretching the wheelbase and staying spring under with my axles at the moment, then using an Atlas or Stak for my tcase needs. I'm just weighing all my options because like i said i really like how the jeep performs now besides the flex and tcase gearing.

Have you look at the stak replacement case for the D300? It comes in a driver drop model.

But the time you bought the 300, gears, a bearing kit, replacement case, and front and rear outputs... your at like $1700. That makes it really hard not to go with a Stak.

I'm still running the stock outputs on my 300 with no issues, but upgraded ones are on the wishlist. $$ for the Jeep is a semi-low priority for me usually.

But the time you bought the 300, gears, a bearing kit, replacement case, and front and rear outputs... your at like $1700.

I've made this point to folks many times. I have basically three rigs...one has a STaK 3 speed, one an Atlas II, and one the D300.

The STaK is definitely the cadillac IMO...shifts nice, lots of gear choices, strong as hell, but it is expensive and because the case is so large, a PITA to install sometimes.

The Atlas also works well, shifts well, is easy to install, still a little pricey.

The 300 is waiting to break and then I will decide what goes in in its place. I will never put money into it. Rebuild kit, lomax gears, bigger outputs, twin sticks, time and labor...and when you're done you've spent almost as much as getting a better t-case like Atlas or StaK.

To me, the STaK 2 speed is the best deal around. $2150 for a bigger built box than the Atlas (at $2395), comes with shifters, 360 degree clockable, 3:1, 4:1, or 5:1 gear ratios, all 32 spline outputs with lots of yoke/output options, passenger or drivers drop, etc. And many other options after that if you want to pay for them. The only disadvantage is the size/dificulty stuffing into a small vehicle like a CJ.

To me, the STaK 2 speed is the best deal around. $2150 for a bigger built box than the Atlas (at $2395), comes with shifters, 360 degree clockable, 3:1, 4:1, or 5:1 gear ratios, all 32 spline outputs with lots of yoke/output options, passenger or drivers drop, etc. And many other options after that if you want to pay for them. The only disadvantage is the size/dificulty stuffing into a small vehicle like a CJ.

How big is the thing? I was under the impression it's at least similar in size to a D300 unless you get the V-shaped one. or do you just mean "massaging" the floor pan?

How big is the thing?...or do you just mean "massaging" the floor pan?

Well, "massaging" is subjective.

The two speed box is in the same case and uses nearly all the same gears as the 3 speed, so it is quite large and sturdy.

This page>> http://www.johnarenz.com/STaK_NV4500_page_2.html has some good shots of the amount of massaging required, and if you hat the "NEXT PAGE" button at the bottom you can see the finished product.

at least 37s, maybe even 39.5 inch IROKS though. got any insight or writeups on swapping in the chevy drivetrain you have in your jeep? from the looks of things i can swap in a whole engine/tranny combo from a wrecked truck cheaper than doing all the random ass adapter bell housings and stuff.

no write up really, but it was not as hard as you think. (of course, im running a carb and all new auto meter gauges) motor mounts, tranny mount and crossmember, fuel lines and water lines, driveshafts, brakelines. i originally had a th350 that fit fine. it was a little close to the front drive shaft and the frame, but you should not have that problem with your YJ. my CJ has skinny frame rails. when i swapped in the 465 and flat clocking ring on the 205 (and no body lift) it required me to cut the shit outta my floor pan.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v350/rajincajintj/IMG_0051.jpg

that is just the hole for the tranny, you can barely see the begining of the hole for the 205...

but if you have any questions i would be happy to answer them

Ok i have a game plan..a temporary one anyway. I'm swapping in a full width chevy d44 front with flat tops and going spring over. I'm going to wheel space my rear D44 (while I build a rear 60 or custom 6 lug 9") If i build a D60 I'll convert the front 44 to 8 lug. A guy on another board is going to trade me a D300 with the AX15 adapter/clocking ring and maybe even a twin stick in exchange for my 231. When I go SOA I may stretch the front but I don't know what kind of steering issues I'll run into. I plan to search for info on that. My biggest hold ups will be finding waggy leafs or stock YJ leafs since the local yards are crushing stuff as fast as they can with steel prices like they are. I may end up biting the bullet and buying replacement new YJ leafs. Any comments or guidance are appreciated.

caddy 500 lighter than a bb chev and more torque

Well I know it's been a while but I've finally got a game plan and got my waggy axles out and sold and 3/4 ton Chevy axles to put in along with a D300. While it's all apart I'm going to go ahead and stretch it too but I just haven't decided whether to use XJ springs or waggy fronts because i have both sitting in the parts pile. If I have to move the gas tank either way I might as well use XJ springs. If i can use waggys without moving the tank then i'd rather do that and keep the stockish body lines. I guess I'll cross that bridge when i get there. I'm stretching teh front 2 inches as well when I put the waggy leafs in it. BTW I have a spare front d44 with flat tops and shafts in case i need them to last until I get a D60 up front :D

this is in HARDCORE if it's gonna be a trail only links and 1 ton's ... you are mad for doing all that work to get to dana 44's f/r and now you are going to rip it all out to put in a dana 44 fullwidth ...:flipoff2:

give your head a shake your gonna wheel in once or twice and then want 39's to 42's with a 60 or 609 or hi9 .. don't kid yourself :shaking:don't screw around just do it ...

as some one who has built the same truck multiple times and wasted ton's of coin don't ...

poly performance link kit's look at em

m2c anyways ...



long live bacon :smokin:

Well I know it's been a while but I've finally got a game plan and got my waggy axles out and sold and 3/4 ton Chevy axles to put in along with a D300. While it's all apart I'm going to go ahead and stretch it too but I just haven't decided whether to use XJ springs or waggy fronts because i have both sitting in the parts pile. If I have to move the gas tank either way I might as well use XJ springs. If i can use waggys without moving the tank then i'd rather do that and keep the stockish body lines. I guess I'll cross that bridge when i get there. I'm stretching teh front 2 inches as well when I put the waggy leafs in it. BTW I have a spare front d44 with flat tops and shafts in case i need them to last until I get a D60 up front :D

fuck that guy,

build what you got for the coin you have available. 60's or some hybrid axle just does not make sence for everyone.

it sounds like you have a solid plan. it helps to have all the stuff there when you start. building in anticipation of getting parts, and then having to redisign when shit dont fit sucks. build what you got! and keep us updated. i did the exact same thing with my cj, i used bastard xj leafs in the rear and 1.5" RE SOA springs in the front. my biggest concern was the traction bar with those long xj springs. build it strong and build it right if you are going to stay with leafs in the rear. after 3 different bars and plenty trail repairs i finally went 4 link.

also, when using old leafs, take em apart, clean em up, put new center pins, new pads, and new retainers on there, it will last you in the long run. one of the main causes of leaf sping death is over flexing em. so add some clamps and good bump stops.

if you decide to stick with the 44, i have USA Alloys in mine and they have held up great, i dont drive like a pissed off drunk teenager, but im not easy on it. they have been great, also a good set of lifetime warranty hubs will get you a long way down the trail (with some drive slugs for trail spares)

good luck man, i hope the build goes well

if you decide to stick with the 44, i have USA Alloys in mine and they have held up great, i dont drive like a pissed off drunk teenager, but im not easy on it. they have been great, also a good set of lifetime warranty hubs will get you a long way down the trail (with some drive slugs for trail spares)

good luck man, i hope the build goes well

yeah, I've seen Full size D44's with chromo shafts hold up to 38's just fine, if you have any skills at all.

I have 31 spline Yukons in my front 44 with Yukon joints and warn supreme hubs on 38" tires. . . no problems. like you I didn't want to sell off the 44 that has done me right and I had so much into already. I do plan to go 35 spline when I get stickier tires though. :D

Resurrecting this from teh dead, but I finally came up with a plan and have mostly completed the project. I used RE SOA springs all the way around and while i was outboarding springs I stretched the front a little bit. In the rear I just stretched it with offset perches. It's got a 14 bolt rear with detroit, disk brakes and 5.13 gears; and up front is a 3/4 ton chevy D44. It's sitting on 38 inch tires now but they're in bad shape and i bought them more for the rims than anything. I'm thinking I'll back off a little and go to a 36 or 37 inch IROK since they lable them on the smaller side. All I'm waiting for now is the money for a rear driveshaft and the time to finish the brakes. Thanks to everyone for the input, both positive and negative.
It was still sitting on an Eaton rear in this pic but I swapped it for a 14 bolt after not finding a 5.13 third for several months.
http://wrangler94.jeeps-offroad.com/newproject/DSCN0471sized.JPG

can you post up a pic of how you outboarded/streched the front a bit. How much did you move it, and are you having any steering clearance issues? Still using the jeep pitman arm? Is the box in the stock location? Thanks, i'm about to put a Chevy 44 in the front of my YJ too and any info/pictures are helpful.

I'm thinking I'll back off a little and go to a 36 or 37 inch IROK since they lable them on the smaller side.

just in case you didnt double check, a 36'' irok IS a 37, and a 37 is a 37. check out the honest sizes on the interco website. good luck with everything!

I'm not very knowledgeable about the wranglers and all that but what i have put under the hood of my old Willys wagon is 1967 Ford 289 Hipo, Np435 Tranny, NP205...can't remember the gears for the Tranny or T-case but the axles are 3.31 gears and I've got tourqe coming out my ears with that Mustang motor. Sounds good to. Just a small suggestion but like I said I don't know very much about conversions for Wranglers and Rock Crawling.

can you post up a pic of how you outboarded/streched the front a bit. How much did you move it, and are you having any steering clearance issues? Still using the jeep pitman arm? Is the box in the stock location? Thanks, i'm about to put a Chevy 44 in the front of my YJ too and any info/pictures are helpful.

I'll have to take some pics, but pretty much i cut off all the factory shackle hangers and spring hangers and bought some aftermarket ones for simplicity sake. I mounted everything outboarded about a half inch per side IIRC, but it may have been more. I measured center to center on the chevy 44 perches, found center between my frame rails then measured out from there. I took an obscene amount of measurements before i cut off the main eyes..distance from main eye to center of shackle hanger, center of main eye bolt to the rear main eye bolt, etc. When I put the new ones on I pulled string to make sure tehy were straight, and also scooted them forward an inch from the original position.
I also scooted the shackle hanger forward an inch, which covers my stock bumper bolt holes in teh bottom of the frame. My steering box is still in the factory location, and I'm running a waggy pitman arm at the moment which works fine if you stick to stock style steering attached to the knuckles but I'm not sure yet if it will have enough throw for the high steer arm since it places the TRE out further. Time will tell once I ream teh pitman arm to fit a chevy TRE. If you have any more questions feel free to ask me here or PM me and I'll help all I can. :beer:

just in case you didnt double check, a 36'' irok IS a 37, and a 37 is a 37. check out the honest sizes on the interco website. good luck with everything!

Yeah I remember it was something like that. Tires are still a little way off though. I'll probably end up stuck seeing what I can get used with the economy like it is. Working for myself in grading has made me tight with my money.

I'm not very knowledgeable about the wranglers and all that but what i have put under the hood of my old Willys wagon is 1967 Ford 289 Hipo, Np435 Tranny, NP205...can't remember the gears for the Tranny or T-case but the axles are 3.31 gears and I've got tourqe coming out my ears with that Mustang motor. Sounds good to. Just a small suggestion but like I said I don't know very much about conversions for Wranglers and Rock Crawling.

For the time being I'm leaving the 4.0 in there. If I ever do anything it will probably be a stroker kit for the 4.0 but so far i've been satisfied with what I have. I considered swapping in a 350 just to avoid adapter issues to a sm465 but if the AX pukes, which I know it will, I'll figure out something then.