: Dimple die anonymous?


Pook
03-13-2008, 03:13 AM
Help I'm hooked. :eek:

I'm rebuilding my ftoy for this season and bought some dimple dies a few months ago along with some slugger hole saws :grinpimp:

Rebuild here. http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=664992

I'm confident these mounts will hold up, but want a second opinion...

I reinforce the bolt holes to add more meat around the bolt holes. All material is 1/8" hot rolled, and the bolt hole area is doubled up to 1/4". Holes where drilled as close to the 1/2" bolt size as I could without buying a reamer.

They seem very solid to me. its my first time trying to stay really light instead of grabbing the 1/4" material.

Pook
03-13-2008, 03:16 AM
One thing I have to say is about working with the thinner material is that its very easy to work with and shape.

foley
03-13-2008, 09:19 AM
what grade hot rolled? If it's standard steel yard 1008 or 1010 hot roll it's some weak stuff, probaly ok for a shock mount but I wouldn't do a link mount with it.

FYI, I buy 11 ga 1018 cold rolled sheet stock, 4'x10' pretty cheap, and it is WAY WAY WAY stonger than 1/8" crap from the steel yard.

Another option is 1014 HR P&O (pickled and oiled) not as good as cold rolled, but a good happy medium between CR steel and 1010 HR in terms of both strength and price.

Pook
03-13-2008, 09:48 AM
what grade hot rolled? If it's standard steel yard 1008 or 1010 hot roll it's some weak stuff, probaly ok for a shock mount but I wouldn't do a link mount with it.

FYI, I buy 11 ga 1018 cold rolled sheet stock, 4'x10' pretty cheap, and it is WAY WAY WAY stonger than 1/8" crap from the steel yard.

Another option is 1014 HR P&O (pickled and oiled) not as good as cold rolled, but a good happy medium between CR steel and 1010 HR in terms of both strength and price.


Thanks for the info. Thats what I was thinking to. I used cold rolled for my boatsides and it has worked out real well as far dents go. I'll order some in.

Air Ride
03-13-2008, 10:38 AM
Looks good, more than enuff for shock mount on a leaf sprung rig.

Pook
03-14-2008, 03:23 AM
Looks good, more than enuff for shock mount on a leaf sprung rig.


Thanks Mike,

I bought a bit of cold rolled today. I fabbed up a mount for my hydro assist.

I still need to plate and drill the mounting holes. My only concern on this mount is the actual welding of the mount to the diff. Should I be concerned that the metal could tear off? I'm pretty sure it'd be a tough thing to do as is, but right now I could easily strap the joint with some 1/8" to reinforce and give it more weld. Would that be overkill?

benttoy
03-14-2008, 06:51 AM
THEY WILL NOT WORK take them off and send them to me
j/k looks good:D

rcurrier44
03-14-2008, 09:15 AM
My only concern on this mount is the actual welding of the mount to the diff. Should I be concerned that the metal could tear off?

Just try and avoid a cold weld on the tube. The tube is a lot thicker than what you are welding to it. If you are welding mig just preheat the tube with a tourch. If you can weld it with TIG or Gas so you can control where the heat goes.

TotalImmortal
03-14-2008, 09:31 AM
when welding dis-similar thicknesses i usually concentrate on the thicker material and "dip" up into the thinner stuff. If that makes sense.

Pook
03-14-2008, 11:39 AM
when welding dis-similar thicknesses i usually concentrate on the thicker material and "dip" up into the thinner stuff. If that makes sense.


Yeah thats what I normally do too. My concern is not my ability to weld it, but the material it self trying to tear above the weld.

ToolBox Guy
03-14-2008, 11:56 PM
Pook, your stuffs looking pretty good. And everyone has made really good points, I use mostly Hot Rolled P&O. But it is very common in most laser shops. Good price, decent quality, precision bending is almost out of the question though. It is true though like someone mentioned about joining dissimilar thicknesses though, obviously try to concentrate your energy onto the thicker material. One more item,maybe run your doublers on the outside, if the situation allows. Kind of like mine.:flipoff2:

Todd W
03-15-2008, 12:56 AM
Pook - What are you using to cut-out your 1/8" Plasma by hand + grinding to clean it up or what?

(I assume you are laser your pieces 80Proof)

I've been using electric shears for my sheet metal work and it's been awesome to work with and get clean nice straight cuts... I`m trying to find a cleaner way to cut 11ga (than plasma by hand) and the like but I doubt there will be one w/out CNC Plasma or Laser :(

Pook
03-15-2008, 01:34 AM
I don't have a plasma at my shop, my dad has one I can use when needed, but I've been doing this all by hand using a combo of a horizontal bandsaw, zip disk, beltsander and sanding disk on a grinder. I bought a set of the Slugger carbide holesaws along with the dimple dies. its actually pretty easy to work since its so thin. Goes much faster than 1/4" :)

Sure wish I had a cnc plasma or laser.

Brett do you weld up the inside seams too? I thought about putting the doublers on the outside, and probably will start doing that, I'm assuming its just for cosmetic reasons? I may add some to the outside of the shock mounts just for looks.

ROCKSFORBRAINS
03-15-2008, 07:38 AM
Pook, your stuffs looking pretty good. And everyone has made really good points, I use mostly Hot Rolled P&O. But it is very common in most laser shops. Good price, decent quality, precision bending is almost out of the question though. It is true though like someone mentioned about joining dissimilar thicknesses though, obviously try to concentrate your energy onto the thicker material. One more item,maybe run your doublers on the outside, if the situation allows. Kind of like mine.:flipoff2:Just be watchful of where you end your reinforcement plates, making sure the ends overlap each other by a good measure. Having multiple reinforcing plates (doublers and gussets) end in the same general vicinity causes huge stress risers. On something that's not way overbuilt and actually sees some flex (1/8" for instance) it will eventually lead to faliure right where the plating ends. The lines show where this bracket will want to crack if it's something that actually sees some decent stress.
Beleive me, I've learned the hard way and had to fix alot of my own stuff. Nice welds btw.
Pardon my kindergarden crayon photo chopping skills:

maxyedor
03-15-2008, 11:03 PM
Lame, I can see at least 17 more spots to put a dimple and you allready think you need rehab, you're a lightweight.

Pook
03-15-2008, 11:24 PM
Lame, I can see at least 17 more spots to put a dimple and you allready think you need rehab, you're a lightweight.

:shaking:

bite me. :flipoff2: