96 4.0 ex cab
already got the eb44
know whats gotta be done just some few last minute questions before the build starts.
Coils- A lot of guys are running the 3.5" EB coils and 36+ Tires. Mines gonna be on 35's and I want it low. I'm willing to trim if need be but would prefer not to as its still the DD. 2.5" EB coils with 35's?

Coil Buckets-
everybody says its ok to use the stock buckets on the ranger but a lot of guys choose to move em forward. Looks to me like it all lines up better if you move em forward a couple inches. Its the DD so it needs to be safe. Should I move em forward? Its not a big deal and I dont wanna slack in important places.

44 Rebuild- Seen many a rebuild artice but what do I need to do to get this thing worthy to be under my rig? Seal and bearing wise etc. I know I need new hard brake lines, brake lines, u joints etc. What else

63" Chevies- Going to use some 63s off a 2wd. Use stock rear hanger? Relocate front?

I've searched and researched and some of this stuff seems to just be preference. So this is what I need to know before I do it

I've been DD'n mine for 2+ years, duff 3.5 coils at the heart of it all, and for awhile with a body lift....its fine.

with the 63's just run beltechs in the rear and move the front hanger 6in forward, it'll be fine. You can kind of see the flex i get out of the rear in this picture...the tire was still on the ground too:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e290/Blacko3gt/P2230045.jpg

If i can get another car/truck after spring break my truck is comming off the road and stopping DD duties...if that happens i'll have EVERYTHING you need to do a SAS in a few hours up for sale (arms, built axle, coil buckets, radius arms brackets, steering, etc)

Well I'm by no means an expert on this stuff but I have been in the middle of doing an SAS on my Ranger for some time now........here's what I know about what you want to know that might be able to help you.......

96 4.0 ex cab
already got the eb44
know whats gotta be done just some few last minute questions before the build starts.
Coils- A lot of guys are running the 3.5" EB coils and 36+ Tires. Mines gonna be on 35's and I want it low. I'm willing to trim if need be but would prefer not to as its still the DD. 2.5" EB coils with 35's?

Coil Buckets-
everybody says its ok to use the stock buckets on the ranger but a lot of guys choose to move em forward. Looks to me like it all lines up better if you move em forward a couple inches. Its the DD so it needs to be safe. Should I move em forward? Its not a big deal and I dont wanna slack in important places.

44 Rebuild- Seen many a rebuild artice but what do I need to do to get this thing worthy to be under my rig? Seal and bearing wise etc. I know I need new hard brake lines, brake lines, u joints etc. What else

63" Chevies- Going to use some 63s off a 2wd. Use stock rear hanger? Relocate front?

I've searched and researched and some of this stuff seems to just be preference. So this is what I need to know before I do it

1) Ok, not sure on the coils right off the bat, but depending on how much you want to trim, that could definitely be doable.....35s with 2.5" coils up front.....ecspecially if you redid yur coil buckets and when doing so, you move them down about 2 inches and forward maybe 2.5-3 inches.....I believe that the most you can move them forward is 3 inches if you plan on still using a steering linkage setup. If you were going full hydraulic steering which = big $$$, then this doesn't matter, but like I said, to keep your drag link happy, I think the most you can move the axle is between 2 and 3 inches forward without having to move your steering box or going to a Toyota type steering box. If it were me though, I'd go with the 3.5" coils and try not to move the coil height down but maybe an inch or so.....reason I say this is because the 3.5" coils seem to work out real well for a lot of guys.

2) It's hard to say right off the bat what you would need to do to the EB 44 to make it "worthy"....to some guys, making it "worthy" involves dropping about $3500 into the axles for new EVERYTHING, hub to hub with chromo shafts, CTM or Yukon u-joints, and selectable $1000 locking diffs.....to other guys, if it'll roll alright and stop, that's good enough for them. Either way, if it were me, even if I didin't have money to do anything to the gears or diff or shafts or u-joints, I'd atleast redo the following to the axle so when I get it under the truck and everything lined up, I could at least drive it and stop.....
-new or properly functioning locking hub assemblies
-new inner and outer wheel bearings and new seals for each side
-new brake rotors
-new calipers
-new brake pads
-new brake hard lines
-new spindles (only if old spindles are trashed or ground down like a lot of them get if the old owner didn't re-pack his bearings like he should and have the bearings seize up and take out a hub when they seize)

You don't neccesarily need to redo u-joints or even screw with the pig if all you're doing is looking to get it rolling down the road....although I really don't see the point in doing this swap just to be on the road.....either way though, defintley check out the above stuff and if in doubt of any of it's condition.....just replace it.

3) 63" Chevies......depends again on what you want your wheelbase to be. If you want to keep the axle in its stock location or thereabouts, then yea, keep the rear hanger in their stock location and get the 2.5" belltech drop shackles for an 88-98 Chevy pickup and use those for extended shackles and move your front hanger forward 6" or so....(which can be kind of a bitch if it's like mine and the body mount is built into the hanger). You might want to ask Ned (FbOmRxD) about what he did for the front of his and see if he's got any pics of his hangers relocated location.

Just so ya know, yur front axle is 5x5.5 bolt pattern and your stock Ranger rear is 5x4.5.....you're gonna need spacer/adapters in the rear or the matching 9" rearend to get that shit to match up. Whats the pigs ratio in yur 44?

Like I said, hopefully what little I know about this'll help out.....

Thanks. Like I said this was just the last stuff I had questions about. Regearing, traction aids, spacers all obvious stuff. It will not be just rollin down the road it will be wheeled hard. Looking for a manual 1354 too. I guess all I'm left wondering about now is tracbar setup. But everybody seems to do their own thing.

Looking for a manual 1354 too.

You and me and everyone else! Yea, it sounds like you got yur ducks in a row....so good luck and get some fuckin pics up!

The amount of time you will spend looking for a Manual 1354 you could get a second job just long enough to buy an Atlas. ;)

If you're in cali i've got a line on a man 1354. Hit me up

if you want a manual 1354 check out www.usejacksautoparts.com....they are in billerica and usually have atleast 2 or 3 of them. I got mine from there a few years ago for 120ish and they pulled it.

p.s. i have the wheel adapters you need for the rear as well....think about it

if you want a manual 1354 check out www.usejacksautoparts.com....they are in billerica and usually have atleast 2 or 3 of them. I got mine from there a few years ago for 120ish and they pulled it.

p.s. i have the wheel adapters you need for the rear as well....think about it

I got my manual 1354 from Jacksauto also. Got it last year for 100 dollars. they had a couple when i was there.