So I started my tummy tuck on my TJ with a 1 inch body lift, cut out the stock skidplate that I had to weld to the frame 4 years ago due to 4 spun nuts. I ordered up my steel, 1/4 steel plate, 1x1 square tube, and 3 inch c-channel.

The plan is to cut out the spun nuts and fix them, weld some gusseted L brackets to the frame to bolt the c channel to. The c channel will be the transfercase mount and will seperate from the skid.

No pics or drawings so you'll have to picture it in your head.

Does anyone have any sugestions or pics of what works or what doesn't?
(yes I have searched and can't really find anything really spacific to what I need)

-Tom

lets post up some pics as i am thinking of doing something like this too

I THINK I have it pictured what you're talking about.

I cut some 1/4" plate with a torch to size, laid the original over it and spray painted where the holes needed to be, mocked it up to see where I needed to cut for driveshaft clearance and Cut some 1"square tubing as a drop as when I first mocked it up, my TC was too high. Works like a charm.

My friend did his the same way. If you want it prettier, dont use a torch, half a day grinding just to get it to look stock-ish. I thought about welding the 1x1 in and grinding it down to make it look more 1-peice-ish, but I got a new drivetrain coming in so it'll all be messed up.

I did something similar. I traced out my skid with 1/4" plate. Drilled the holes and countersunk them. They mount to the stock 6 locations. Then I cut up some 3x3x3" angle and welded it to the inside of the frame.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/flatskid.jpg

I have 6 of these with drilled and recessed holes as well.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/crossmembermounts.jpg

This is my crossmember for the tranny. I need to get out in the shop and secure the center of the skid to this crossmember but so far it has held up.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/flattummycross.jpg

Then the leading edge was reinforced with 3/8"x4" steel. Which is what I welded my traction bar bracket to.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/tractionbarskid.jpg

It is completely flat on the bottom.

http://thedoubleduke.com/pics/Jeep/gearcooldownside.jpg

cut out the stock skidplate that I had to weld to the frame 4 years ago due to 4 spun nuts.


drill them out, drill through the top of the frame, and run a through-bolt all the way through the frame.

i did that years ago, and haven't had any issues.

Sorry, but no pics. On my TJ, I welded a piece of tubing to fit between the frame rails just behind the TC lower mounting bolts and welded 1/4" plate to extend forward of the tubing to bolt to the TC. Had to clearance the tubing near front driveshaft. Bolted the TC directly to the plate.

You need to use vibration dampening somewhere, so I used old YJ shackles and bushings and round tubing to fit bushings. I welded this round tube to each end of the new "crossmember" and welded the shackles to frame rails after I cut them in half. Once this is in place build your flat skid and bolt it up. Since my skid doesn't hold up the TC anymore I fabbed tabs to mount it to the outside of my frame about 2/3 up, leaving a flat skid and no bolt heads to drag or be chewed up by the rocks.

That leaves me 1/4" below the frame. The 1" Body lift helped for clearance issues.

This is all with Auto tranny. Manual might be different.

drill them out, drill through the top of the frame, and run a through-bolt all the way through the frame.

i did that years ago, and haven't had any issues.

I never thought of that, I was planning on doing this http://www.tjhardcore.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=760

Dookey, are you running only a 1 inch body lift? I wanted to go flat across the frame also but because I still have the 231 it might hang down 1 to 1.5 inches.

Sorry, but no pics. On my TJ, I welded a piece of tubing to fit between the frame rails just behind the TC lower mounting bolts and welded 1/4" plate to extend forward of the tubing to bolt to the TC. Had to clearance the tubing near front driveshaft. Bolted the TC directly to the plate.

You need to use vibration dampening somewhere, so I used old YJ shackles and bushings and round tubing to fit bushings. I welded this round tube to each end of the new "crossmember" and welded the shackles to frame rails after I cut them in half. Once this is in place build your flat skid and bolt it up. Since my skid doesn't hold up the TC anymore I fabbed tabs to mount it to the outside of my frame about 2/3 up, leaving a flat skid and no bolt heads to drag or be chewed up by the rocks.

That leaves me 1/4" below the frame. The 1" Body lift helped for clearance issues.

This is all with Auto tranny. Manual might be different.

I was planning on drilling 4 holes in the c channel and using the stock mounting bolts.

-Tom

Dookey, are you running only a 1 inch body lift? I wanted to go flat across the frame also but because I still have the 231 it might hang down 1 to 1.5 inches.

1.25" JKS body lift. I should have gone to a 2" and everything would have cleared without cutting into the floor. My dana 300 is clocked flat so that helped with the flat skid.

I was planning on drilling 4 holes in the c channel and using the stock mounting bolts.

-Tom

I guess you will use the rubber pad with four bolts. IMO, that would create more vertical distance you'd lose in attempting to go flat with the bottom of the frame.

Here are a few I have done, these are the only ones I have pictures of.

http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6599/img0477fi9.jpg

http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1354/img0431hp2.jpg
the bottom
http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/8730/rool4lt6.jpg

http://img186.imageshack.us/img186/9989/img0310ja9.jpg

http://img210.imageshack.us/img210/3922/img0260hs8.jpg

I guess you will use the rubber pad with four bolts. IMO, that would create more vertical distance you'd lose in attempting to go flat with the bottom of the frame.

Yeah without that mount it would be alot higher maybe thats something I can consider doing without it and doing the rubber mounts on the frame like you were talking about. I did a poly TC mount a while back I wonder if that was taller than the stock one.


-Tom

I have a 01 TJ and bent everything out there up to 1/4" so I went with a flat plate of 3/4" T6 6061. I countersunk the bolts and used Nth Degrees flat skid Trans mount. It came out factory looking! I also have a 1" body. It flexes a little but performs great!

I have a 01 TJ and bent everything out there up to 1/4" so I went with a flat plate of 3/4" T6 6061. I countersunk the bolts and used Nth Degrees flat skid Trans mount. It came out factory looking! I also have a 1" body. It flexes a little but performs great!


3/4 inch holy shit dude. What does that weigh? I was planning on using the 1x1 to build a frame for extra strength for the plate.

-Tom

3/4 inch holy shit dude. What does that weigh? I was planning on using the 1x1 to build a frame for extra strength for the plate.

-Tom

It's not that heavy, I've never measured it but I'm going to be dropping in a 4SP next month so I'll throw it on the scale then. I would guess it about 50LBS. I thought about staying Steel and ribbing a 3/8" flat plate but decided it was not cool enough. I also have free metal so it was $0, it pays to be friends with the metal man. It was actually cut from a 8X20' sheet that was Die grade so I was told the surfaces was perfectly flat. Having Aluminum allows sliding over rock a whole lot easier.

http://i201.photobucket.com/albums/aa280/Scotch740/Tech%20pics/TCskidangleshot.jpg

Thats mine on my stockish LJ. Write up with specs and drawings here (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=429497).

now you just need skid plates for your bolts,:flipoff2: Mc master sells Tapered bolts cheap.....

3/4 inch holy shit dude. What does that weigh? I was planning on using the 1x1 to build a frame for extra strength for the plate.

-Tom

it will weigh similar to 1/4 steel plate of the same size. aluminum is typically a third the weight of steel.

Yeah I'm a retard, I typed before I thought. It didn't even register that T6 6061 was aluminium.

-Tom

I'm running a 1" BL and 300 t case. My crossmember is 1.5" from the bottom of the frame rail. I made my crossmember and skids out of 5/16" sheet steel and bolted it with countersunk bolts. I didn't want to do like some lift mfgs and make skid/crossmember/linkmounts as one unit. Made crossmember front/rear skids all seperate.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/badf350/Jeep/MVC-024S-1.jpg

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/badf350/Jeep/MVC-019S-2.jpg
Didn't clock it flat because I didn't want to butcher the floor.

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/badf350/Jeep/MVC-018S-1.jpg
During mock up, I now have the right length bolts :flipoff2:

http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f285/badf350/Jeep/MVC-016S-3.jpg

bump

Scotch740, Dude your write up is awsome the measurements really helped me alot. I was going to try to trace my stock skid, which would have sucked cause it is was fucked up.

So far I got the crossmember built and the skid will get cut this weekend. I need to do my sye, which Ihave all the parts for I just need to pull the TC and do it, then I can burn everything in.

-Tom

Scotch740, Dude your write up is awsome the measurements really helped me alot. I was going to try to trace my stock skid, which would have sucked cause it is was fucked up.

So far I got the crossmember built and the skid will get cut this weekend. I need to do my sye, which Ihave all the parts for I just need to pull the TC and do it, then I can burn everything in.

-Tom

Glad it helped. I love my flat skid, they should have come like this from the factory:confused: or at least an option.

You can use a piece of cardboard for your holes for a pattern.

This is what mine looks like.
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/white99tj/IMGA0747.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/white99tj/IMGA0746.jpg



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/white99tj/IMGA0745.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h68/white99tj/IMGA0744.jpg