I have a 98 4 door Tracker I want to link out. It will have a 4.3, 700R4, dual Toy cases, and Toy axles. I have 16 Currie JJ's already and 14" fox air shocks. I have my link tube 2'' .250 4130 for my lowers 5' each and 1 3/4'' .120 4130 for my uppers 5' each. I have never attempted anything like this before and dont know how to use the calculator or some of what they are asking for. Could someone help that has done this before. Thanks Jim

For the rear..... Best thing to do is start with a calc http://www.sliveroffroad.com/SliverStore/links.htm, click on 4 Link Calc. PLay with it a while. Your uppers should be roughly 70% of the length of your bottom links to control pinion angle during articulation. The lower links should ideally run parallel to the ground.

antisquat.... With 100% anti-squat, there will be no compression of the rear suspension duringacceleration (the springs do not “feel” any load and therefore do not compress, the
suspension links and chassis take 100% of the weight transfer load). Remember though, this controls the load on the rear tires. My opinion you don"t want 100% antisquat around 70%.

Quick and dirty, alot of unanswered questions! Triangulation the upper arms, the lower arms, or both unless you want a run trac bar.

The link says 4 link calc but when you click it a 3 link calc comes up. Thanks Jim

Damn sounds you're set to build a nice 4 link...wish I was in your position :D. You have one of the hardest parts out of the way...you already collected everything you need. Spend a couple of weeks doing some meticulous reading and researching & I'm sure you'll be able to do it afterward. Good luck.

you cannot run a 4 link in the front without full hydraulic steering as the draglink will bind with the 4 link articulation. my recommendation is 3 link with a panhard bar or radius arms or full hydro. and since i guess im the only one that noticed you say you dont know how to use the calculator z axis means hieght off ground. x axis means distance from axle center. y axis is distance from the center of the axle width towards the outside of the vehicle. and for my favorite use a dual triangulated so lowers are narrow at frame wide at axle and then opposite for the uppers. and on the calculator shoot for 0 degrees roll axis angle which is your over or under steer. this shouldnt be too difficult on the rear however you will need to sacrifice on the front if it is only a 3 link. goodluck. and read some other threads to learn more

I used the version of the 4 link calc off of Xtreme4x4's website and it tell you what each entry is. Like forward of axle centerline and height from ground.

you cannot run a 4 link in the front without full hydraulic steering as the draglink will bind with the 4 link articulation.

Funny Dodge and Jeep have been doing it for years.


Oh maybe you meant you can't run a triangulated 4 link:flipoff2:

careful people we have a funny guy here

Actually I was trying to point out a factual error in your statement in a light hearted way, but sure I can be funny to:D