I searched for about 2 hours, and couldent find def. answers...Sorry so loooong

I am about to place an order for my tri 4 link rear parts, I think I have it all figured out and will be doing most of work myself, I have decent fab skills and most tools and welder

First: 1997 TJ SPORT, AX-15, Rubicon 241J TC, TJ D-44s, 35" Krawlers, Champion alum. bead locks, RE long arm susp. 1 1/4" spidertrax wheel spacers, fuel cell in tub, cut rear 1/4s, weekend trail/rock toy, trailer once or twice a yr. on the road the rest

Front suspension: will have to wait for more money, current: Standard RE long radius arms w/5.5 coils and alum. TXT crossover steering

Rear suspension: IN PROGRESS/THIS SUBJECT, now it is bare frame (belly pan back, all mounting bracket are gone/cut ie. coil buckets, CA mounts, track bar mount, etc) factory rear D44 is bare except for sway bar mounts. I have mocked it up and can get aprox 101" WB before my pass through tub fuel cell hits axle at full compression, my plan was to go with Poly Performance for mounts, links, shocks, bridge/truss, I would rather buy the critical brackets like the frame mounted upper combo link mounts and bridge and make most of the rest (my budget was severly cut halfway into project!)

I welcome any opinions/suggestion on this

I cannot afford to go coil overs or air shocks due to my funds getting cut short, but plan on going that way front & rear as soon as i can.

I will have to mount my rear 5.5 RE coils in new positions to match front ride height and new WB, for the upper shock mounts it looks like I will need to notch the frame and use the Poly Per. mounts (they are $250!) is there a cheaper alternitive other then fully fabbing them? The axle bridge from PP is $175 and the tri 4 link frame brackets are $235, is there a source for lower prices for these or similer items?

I planned on 2" & 1.75" DOM w/ Johnny joints for links, but was thinking of extending my RE arms and save some cash, any sugestions on extending those RE arm aprox 7" and will the RE super flex joints work?

My thought on the RE arms is, lowers should be fine, maybe change the bushing end to a JJ, the uppers it may smarter to start fresh with new 1.75" DOM and JJs

(for piece of mind, I may have someone who is a better welder build/extend the arms)

*Also, when I do the front end I was thinking of converting my RE arms to a three link and track bar, any input or quick forum links on the correct way to do it? I think you need to put bigger bushing and bolts in the upper arms?? or would it be better to go with a non radius arm type 3 link?

Thanks in advance for any input

Call Poly. They recently triangulated the rear of my TJ using RE's belly pan and a bunch of there parts. Very clean install and it works well. Mine is still stock wb, but that can be changed with the lower links fairly easily.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=353491&stc=1&d=1203050513

A possibly cheaper alternative for the shocks would be Ford shock towers. Havent priced them yet but I think they are cheaper. Might try doing a search on them.

I am sort of in the same process myself and had been looking at the Poly stuff and making my own links. Then I ran across a price on Clayton's rear kit (http://northridge4x4.com/proddetail.php?prod=CLAYTON-UK-TJ-RH) for $664 and I think free shipping. That is the route I plan on going now. Another option to think about. Joints, jam nuts, link material etc starts adding up quick.

frostytj: on the ford shock towers, I heard about that a few years ago, thanks for refreshing my memory, I just wonder if when I go to coilovers in the future if there would be enough width room, I have yet to research it.

Beat95YJ: I Like that bridge/truss, more details please, custom, how much, who? Did Poly build it custom for you? I like how clean it is without seperate CA mounts also the width where it connects to the axle tubes look like it would help the flexy thin wall factory d-44 tubes, the one the shown on the Poly site is $175 and you still have to buy and weld the upper mounts (does anyone know if the degree angle of the upper tri 4 links change based on WB or is that 30 degree constant?)

I have a older one piece RE belly pan and would like to avoid using the built in mounts, plus with 7+" of extra arm length I would like them right in back of pan

I have talked to Poly and studied there web site along with Gen Right, Poly is less expensive but still hard for me to swing when I add up everything like new/modified links new longer shocks/mounts etc.
by the time i'm done saving to finish this thing it will be 110 deg in Phoenix!

Some recent pics and mock-up:

http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB009.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB009.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB005.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB005.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB015.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB015.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB002.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkFlareMockUp100WB002.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkandTcaseSeal031.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkandTcaseSeal031.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkD44Bare001.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkD44Bare001.jpg)
http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/th_march08TRI4linkandTcaseSeal024.jpg (http://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh300/oversphotos/march08TRI4linkandTcaseSeal024.jpg)

Beat95YJ: I Like that bridge/truss, more details please, custom, how much, who? Did Poly build it custom for you? I like how clean it is without seperate CA mounts also the width where it connects to the axle tubes look like it would help the flexy thin wall factory d-44 tubes, the one the shown on the Poly site is $175 and you still have to buy and weld the upper mounts.

The truss/upper control arm mount is a prototype Poly Performance part. It is not yet released which is why I haven't posted the pics sooner. I am told it will fit with a D44, D60, 8.8 and 9" so I imagine it will fit damn near anything.

I do not know what the pricing or availability will be. I do know that the people to ask are in Moab this week, so you may not get a good answer from them until next week.

The truss/upper control arm mount is a prototype Poly Performance part. It is not yet released which is why I haven't posted the pics sooner. I am told it will fit with a D44, D60, 8.8 and 9" so I imagine it will fit damn near anything.

I do not know what the pricing or availability will be. I do know that the people to ask are in Moab this week, so you may not get a good answer from them until next week.

Thanks, I was sopposed to be in Moab this week :shaking:

was there last year and they had all sorts of stuff on display and sale priced, maybe they will honer EJS sale this year for me, I have a feeling that your truss will be pricy, guessing $300 range

poly knows everything!!! lol they have helped me out to many times.... and when i went to their shop while i was ion the area they were awsome and even showed me around... :grinpimp:

Thanks, I was sopposed to be in Moab this week :shaking:


Yeah I didn't get to go this year either...Spoke to the Poly guys from the office today, they were having nachos and beer at the brewpub. :flipoff2: I was at my desk up to my ass in alligators.

Last year they actually wheeled my TJ more than I had time to. Looked good in their booth too.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=297107&d=1175903740

Beat95YJ: Nice ride! Likley saw your Jeep last year there but its all a blur (you have a link for specs or build?)

do you know who had the booth that had the linked suspension mocked up to play with? Some little kid almost got bonked when someone articulated it :p was it POLY?


(does anyone know if the degree angle of the upper tri 4 links change based on WB or is that 30 degree constant?) ie: if the frame mounts are 30 degrees will the axle mounts be the same no matter how far back it is
and what is best/simple tool to messure that angle, my degree gauge only work when vertical?

I'm in the process of extending mine out 7" in the back right now also. I have a RE kit and just made my own 4 link mounts and cut the RE arms and sleeved them to make them longer. As for the rear arms keep them at 2" 250 wall. I wouldn't use anything much less than that. I'll post some pics up when I have some more together on mine.

Beat95YJ: Nice ride! Likley saw your Jeep last year there but its all a blur (you have a link for specs or build?)

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=405914


do you know who had the booth that had the linked suspension mocked up to play with? Some little kid almost got bonked when someone articulated it :p was it POLY?


Likely Full Traction. They have a frame you can play with as a rolling display.


(does anyone know if the degree angle of the upper tri 4 links change based on WB or is that 30 degree constant?) ie: if the frame mounts are 30 degrees will the axle mounts be the same no matter how far back it is
and what is best/simple tool to messure that angle, my degree gauge only work when vertical?

Pretty much I'd keep the frame and axle mounts in the same location and change the angle of the links.

I'm in the process of extending mine out 7" in the back right now also. I have a RE kit and just made my own 4 link mounts and cut the RE arms and sleeved them to make them longer. As for the rear arms keep them at 2" 250 wall. I wouldn't use anything much less than that. I'll post some pics up when I have some more together on mine.

when you say "As for the rear arms keep them at 2" 250 wall" do you mean the lowers or uppers also? I ask because both Poly and Gen right use 1.75 on uppers tri 4 link kits

I have my rear axle mocked up fully compressed at 101" (stock d-44 pumpkin less then 2" from hitting stock height frame/shock crossmember) when I mock test fit some spare 2" round and 2" square upper arms to aprox were poly pics shows theres the arm to locate on frame they are within 1/4-1/2" from body (the rear seat foot well dip)

above is compressed even, I havent been able to articulate it yet but I wonder if contact with body with smaller 35" tires when one wheel is stuffed is reason to use 1.75" 120 DOM (also more exhaust room)

If 1.75 120 wall DOM is thought to be to week for extreme use then fine, I just don't want to over build something that causes compromises when not needed

what do ya think?

I'm in the process of extending mine out 7" in the back right now also. I'll post some pics up when I have some more together on mine.

Yes, please post up asap with Pics. and any more tips or ideas to do job correctly and least expensive as possible

Thanks..

I now have the Poly/GenRight frame brackets and parts to make a bridge/truss (but it dosen't look like it would be strong enough when welded up) I may just take axle to a local fab shop and have a HD bridge built

I'm still looking for a good alternitive for the Poly/GenRight type rear frame notched-in coilover mounts (anyone have more info or link to using older ford front shock mounts?) and I am still looking for used 12" or 14" coilovers

Originally Posted by SLIPKOTJ
I'm in the process of extending mine out 7" in the back right now also. I'll post some pics up when I have some more together on mine.

Any updates? or pics?

I now have the Poly/GenRight frame brackets and parts to make a bridge/truss (but it dosen't look like it would be strong enough when welded up) I may just take axle to a local fab shop and have a HD bridge built

I'm still looking for a good alternitive for the Poly/GenRight type rear frame notched-in coilover mounts (anyone have more info or link to using older ford front shock mounts?) and I am still looking for used 12" or 14" coilovers


Any updates? or pics?

I dont think you can fit coil overs in the ford shock mounts, that's why we made ours. There are a few people copying our mounts, I'll let you search for them yourself. Some people make a tube shock mount and just notch the frame and fill it is with some plate.

Thanks for the input

PM sent

I dont think you can fit coil overs in the ford shock mounts, that's why we made ours. There are a few people copying our mounts, I'll let you search for them yourself. Some people make a tube shock mount and just notch the frame and fill it is with some plate.

I dont think you can fit coil overs in the ford shock mounts, that's why we made ours. There are a few people copying our mounts, I'll let you search for them yourself. Some people make a tube shock mount and just notch the frame and fill it is with some plate.

I can say that when I ran a rear track bar the coilovers were a tight fit as the axle shifted side to side. With the triangulated rear axle the clearances are much better.