I've been trying to figure out why D-50's are so bad. Did a search and from what I can tell, the only diference from a 60 is a little bit smaller carrier and ring gear and 30 spline axles. The carrier is bigger than a 44 and the axle joints are the same as a 60. I've seen a lot of 44 axles broken at the joint and not many broken at the splines so wouldn't this be a decent upgrade from a 44 or is there something I'm missing? Are they not any less expensive or more available than a 60, or is there a weak link other than the spline count that I haven't heard about? I've heard about gears as low as 4.56 and ARB makes an air locker for them. The ones I've seen have ball joints instead of king pins, but I thought the late model 60's did too. Seems like they would be more popular than they are. Can anyone clear this up for me?

The biggest reason most people dont use them are the weeny 30 spline axles, why go to all the hassle of a swap if ya don't gain much strength over a 44...but I doubt there all that common either, sence they are only used in 99 and newer non-dually superdutys

I thought they were more widely used than that. ARB's aplication chart says '80-on. I know how inaccurate aplication charts can be though. I didn't think they were that old. I thought maybe early '90s or so. Thats what I get for thinkin'! <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

the Old Dana 50's Where TTB front end's

3/4 ton to 1 ton Junk !!! Ford So yeah they are Dana 50's but not like The New one's


Adam,,,

I have had my 2000 S/D D50F rebuilt by ford under warrantee 3 times. It still makes funnynoises. Biggest problems I have found out about investigating my problems is
1) The vaccum hubs are prone to failure
2) The Axles Neck down at the carrier to 30 spline(But the shafts to that point are 1.5" with large U-joints)
3) Upgradable gear selection. I have found that 4.56 is about the lowest you can go right now.

But you point out some good arguemnets about their benifits. The housing is close to the same physical size as a D60F with the same ground clearance. And currently, they cost the same as a D60F. Maybe in the future, when they are readily available in wrecking yards, they might gain popularity.

I personally was dissappointed when I first saw that the SuperDuty's big front axle wasn't a D60F. I liked the Reverse cut and the large size, but the gear choices held me back.
I would love to dump my D50F in favor of a D60F of equal fit, if it were financially possible.
B

if you find one in a wrecking yard for cheap buy it. you could then build a for9" hybrid and have the necked down section removed and resplined to 35 spline or new inner shafts made if it would endup being too narrow . or maybe a rear d60 pumpkin added to it. you would have to figure out how to buld a spring perch but it would be doable.

Originally posted by high5:
<STRONG>if you find one in a wrecking yard for cheap buy it. you could then build a for9" hybrid and have the necked down section removed and resplined to 35 spline or new inner shafts made if it would endup being too narrow . or maybe a rear d60 pumpkin added to it. you would have to figure out how to buld a spring perch but it would be doable.</STRONG>

I think this is where they are going to have the most benifit, this way you get strength and ground clearance. They need to make a "super 50" kit with bigger locker and 35 spline inner shafts

The way they are now you end up with the clearence of a 60 with the strength of a 44. Like the last post noted if they bring out a 35 spline option and lower gears I would bet people would be all over them.

Another lame thing about the 50 and the newest 60's is the unit bearing hub. If you go through water it is very nice to have bearings you can replace for $75 instead of $600

Originally posted by Gordon:
<STRONG>Another lame thing about the 50 and the newest 60's is the unit bearing hub. If you go through water it is very nice to have bearings you can replace for $75 instead of $600</STRONG>Very true. I would like to think they are better at keeping the water out but I doubt they are <IMG SRC="smilies/frown.gif" border="0">

i just bought a dana 50 last monday thinking it was a 60. i only paid $100 for it so im not going to bitch but i hear it will cost me $1,200 to $1,500 to get lockouts put on, i have no problem running pucks in the front. so does any company make pucks for it? and will it hold up to my stock 460 with a liberal foot and 38's?

superduties only came with the dana 50 from 99-01.5ish. 02 and up were all true balljoint 60s.

the unit bearings and vacuum disconnects are garbage. dynatrac makes the freespin kit for both the unit bearing'ed dodge and ford 60s, but it is $$$. It does however give you true spindles, hubs, and good old plain jane timken wheelbearings. don't know if this is available for the d50.

edit: i had always heard the d50 was the same as the bj d60s from the C's out, so i guess the freespin kit would work with the d50s too. the shit is like $1,300 though. it does come with 35 spline outers... I'm not sure if you can run drive flanges with it.

here's the link for the lazy: http://www.dynatrac.com/products_freespin_ford.html


redit: if it has warn lockouts included, i'm guessing drive flanges are a go.

rereedit: i keep thinking of stuff. One of the theories i've heard is that the vacuum lines used for the hub engage/disengage tend to suck the grease out of the 'lubed for life' unit bearing. Anything larger than stock tires and they pretty much crap out at like 60,000 miles. They're supposedly good for 150ish with stock tires. At $600 to do teh axle for the damn unit bearings, two failures and you bought yourself the freespin kit.
good luck
Paul

Supposedly you can do a hybrid Dana 44/50/60
HP 44 housing
50 carrier and Gears
60 lock right
60 shafts?
Not sure about outers and such.
Something like that.
________
Lezcutiess (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/cam/Lezcutiess/)

i just bought a dana 50 last monday thinking it was a 60. i only paid $100 for it so im not going to bitch but i hear it will cost me $1,200 to $1,500 to get lockouts put on, i have no problem running pucks in the front. so does any company make pucks for it? and will it hold up to my stock 460 with a liberal foot and 38's?


Its a very common axle...you wont have a problem finding them; i dont know who told you that price...but my warns were $150 on ebay.

Its a very common axle...you wont have a problem finding them; i dont know who told you that price...but my warns were $150 on ebay.

I think he's talking about the freespin kit. superduty 50s and 60s have vacuum actuated auto hubs with a manual mode, but the still rely on the unit bearing.

just a correction, that dynatrac kit is almost $1900. You could probably get regular balljoint+spindle d60 knuckles to work with superduty brakes for less than that.

I think he's talking about the freespin kit. superduty 50s and 60s have vacuum actuated auto hubs with a manual mode, but the still rely on the unit bearing.

just a correction, that dynatrac kit is almost $1900. You could probably get regular balljoint+spindle d60 knuckles to work with superduty brakes for less than that.

Sounded like he was just talking about actual locking hubs...easy and cheap to cap off the vacuum tubes and run a manual locking warn or whatever brand.

but yeah, dynatrac isnt cheap...i would only use it if i had a superduty and it would be a pain to swap in a kingpin axle....otherwise id just buy an older D60

I would like to know more about the hybrid 44/50/60. Can anyone shed some light here. It would be a nice upgrade for those of us that already have a hp44.

Sounded like he was just talking about actual locking hubs...easy and cheap to cap off the vacuum tubes and run a manual locking warn or whatever brand.

but yeah, dynatrac isnt cheap...i would only use it if i had a superduty and it would be a pain to swap in a kingpin axle....otherwise id just buy an older D60

agreed. i just figured if someone quoted him $1800 or something, that person was referring to the dynatrac.

i will say though, the vacuum hubs (when they work) are pretty slick. no getting out to lock the hubs up...

Iknow the TTB 50's were basically similar to a 60 on the spindles... (same stub shaft diametr, length, ectc) But they used a 44 joint... WTF were they thinking...

However, it would be a decent upgrade, I guess, for a D44... if you wanted the stouter shaft size, etc for cheap...

actualy the ttb50's dont use 44 sized joints, they use the bigger 1350's, with external c-clips.

Maxles is what the hybrid 44/50/60 was called. I haven't been able to find any concrete info yet.
________
TEEN GIRL LIVE (http://www.girlcamfriend.com/webcam/teen-girls/)

The D50 is basically the inner strength of a 44 (little bit more) with D60 u joints and unit bearing hubs, and the clearance of the D60 (also high pinion) I sold one I had bought for $300 which is not a bad price for a complete 3/4 ton axle that is stronger then a D44.

Swap out the hubs for manual hubs, and call it good. I'd run it on a budget full width build I think with no larger then 40's.

As far as the unit bearings go, on a 8k lb diesel rig, they would fail faster then a 3-4k pound trail rig. I wouldn't spend $1800 on the free wheel kit unless they were stock axles in a stupidduty.

so would i be able to take everything from the knuckles outward off of a TTB D50 and swap it into my solid D50? and yes i'm on a budget, i'm a college kid that about shit his pants when i seen that ad on craigslist for the axle, i thought it was a dana 50 so i hauled ass to get there before anyone else did. I also want to swap hubs so i have the same 8 bolt pattern as my rear axle and not the gay ass 8 on 170mm or whatever it is.

no your ttb knuckles will not work. and if you prices it out it would be about as much to buy new dedenbear kingpin stuff and cut off your inner c's then it would be to get the dynatrack kit then it'll be kingpin. and if your trying to change your bolt pattern your cheapest bet is to just get 1" wheel spacers.

anyone wanna trade a D50 for a D60?

Check ebay. Dynatrac was selling good unit bearing take outs for $50-100 depending on the auction. Not sure if they still do. If you check around you can get the bearings for alot less than $600/pair new. We bought a pair for a truck at work for about $350. I think it may have been NAPA with the company discount.

If you are having problems with the vacuum hubs, take them apart, clean all the crap they call grease out, and replace with a good grease. I used mobile 1. They worked much quicker and I never had a problem after that. The factory grease was dried up causing them to stick.

i dont know if its having vacuum problems its still not in my rig, i bought it after it was pulled out of a 1999 Super Duty, and its going in my trail rig

i dont know if its having vacuum problems its still not in my rig, i bought it after it was pulled out of a 1999 Super Duty, and its going in my trail rig

Don't fawk with them, I bought a set of superwinch hubs for $120 on my 60. I would of gone with the warns but they are $200 a pair. For every other axle in the world they are only $100 :laughing: :flipoff2:

If these fail for whatever reasons it'll get drive slugs, since I got an ARB anyways.

A SD D50, like a TTB D50, uses a standard D60 lockout.
As for the bolt pattern, either spacers, or re-drill, those two would be the least headache inducing.

Useless fact, but TTB 50's U-joints are indeed 44 stuff, they're the same as what an old 44HD(closed knuckle) used.

no your ttb knuckles will not work. and if you prices it out it would be about as much to buy new dedenbear kingpin stuff and cut off your inner c's then it would be to get the dynatrack kit then it'll be kingpin. and if your trying to change your bolt pattern your cheapest bet is to just get 1" wheel spacers.

Why don't the TTB knuckles fit the SD Cs? Curious

The TTB Knuckles are true oddball D50 stuff, while the S/D 50's use a 60 C and knuckle.

The TTB Knuckles are true oddball D50 stuff, while the S/D 50's use a 60 C and knuckle.


Thank you, sir.

Kinda diggin up an old thread but I'm trying to figure out if I can use the dana 50 C's to weld up a 14BFF to make a front axle and use 60 outer parts? Found the 50 for $150 and I have a 14 bolt that I had to replace in my suburban because some jackass welded the locking ring to the spindle so I cant remove the hub.

Where are you guys finding these cheap D50s? I want one :D

Kinda diggin up an old thread but I'm trying to figure out if I can use the dana 50 C's to weld up a 14BFF to make a front axle and use 60 outer parts? Found the 50 for $150 and I have a 14 bolt that I had to replace in my suburban because some jackass welded the locking ring to the spindle so I cant remove the hub.

if you want a ball joint setup then yes you can.

its just a much better idea to use kingpin setup for ease of steering setup, parts availability and cost, and strength.

hello 9 year old thread. :lmao:

Kinda diggin up an old thread but I'm trying to figure out if I can use the dana 50 C's to weld up a 14BFF to make a front axle and use 60 outer parts? Found the 50 for $150 and I have a 14 bolt that I had to replace in my suburban because some jackass welded the locking ring to the spindle so I cant remove the hub.
I've never seen it done with a 14B, but have been involved in two threads on this board where they used Dana 50 knuckles.

Start a new thread, and before you do search a little more as the info is here.

...before you do search...He brings up a thread from 2001 and you are telling him to search?:flipoff2:

He brings up a thread from 2001 and you are telling him to search?:flipoff2:


Only on Pirate!!! :lmao:

I wouldn't waste my time with the Super Doodie Dana 50/Dana 60 parts for rear steer.

I don't like the stock outer stub shafts.

He brings up a thread from 2001 and you are telling him to search?:flipoff2:
It was last updated in 02-05-2009



Just because you find an old thread doesn't mean you searched well :flipoff2:


.

Useless fact, but TTB 50's U-joints are indeed 44 stuff, they're the same as what an old 44HD(closed knuckle) used.

But not a new open knuckle D44

A TTB Dana 50 uses a 1350 series joint for the wheel joints which is NOT the same as a open knuckle Dana 44. How many closed knuckle D44's you reckon are still out there?

And not all closed knuckle D44 used that joint either, IIRC, the early 70's GM ones used the 5-260X like the Jeep D30

Supposedly you can do a hybrid Dana 44/50/60
HP 44 housing
50 carrier and Gears.....

I don't see how that is possible. How would you compensate for the extra 1/4" of ring gear radius?

I don't see how that is possible. How would you compensate for the extra 1/4" of ring gear radius?

Due to the availability of the HP44(one or two leafspring around here) vs the HP60(vapourware) I have been looking (googling) into this swap. It seems Jason Bunch at Tri-County Gear has done it but I couldn't find a thread on here by anyone who has actually done it, although my sirch skilz at certainly not ninja like.

Perhaps the RD50 could be bolted into a 44 housing with larger side gears for a 60 axle... Oh Tim...

Stock 60/50 C's are the same apparently. Ponder, ponder.

Man there is some bad oooold tech in this thread.. :laughing: What a difference 8+ years around these axles makes I guess but things like swapping old school warn lockouts on them is a bolt on and the wheel bolt circle can be changed at will if you can afford the new unit bearings.

Last I knew the 50 was used 99-04 in single wheel but all duallies got an actual 60. I'm sure one of you correcty correctersons will chime in and correct me. :flipoff2:

I dont know who would call a ttb 50 junk or weak? they are not a d60, but a super upgrade for a ttb44 in all 80's fords, as they are a direct bolt in swap. I live on a large beef farm whear farm trucks get worked beyond belief and maintence is a never once a truck is lifted and put to work. I have three fords that have the ttb50 in the front and sterlings in the rear. A '81 f250, 460,4spd,7 inches of lift and 39.5 tsl's on the front and boggers on the back. this truck hauls 600 gallon of water twice a day and has for 3 sets of tires. It is run as hard as it will, and the front has never left us walking. the 84 f250 has a 460, 4spd , 6 inches of lift and 38.5 boggers. this truck hauls who knows how much feed every day. the hubs are always locked in and it is almost always in 4wd. every place we feed is a major mud mess and boggers are the only tire that makes farming possible for us. the other truck with the 50 in it is a '86 f250,351w,4spd, 6 inches of lift, and 38/11.00/16.5 boggers. this truck has not ever had plates on it and is used also every single day for just about everything. when you put a 50 under a truck, dont put junk parts in it if you want it to last. I use spicer x joints, moog ball joints, timken bearings, and warn premium hubs. if a 50 can take the abuse of farming full time and boggers every day, and a healthy big block/ 4 speed, I sure wont call them junk!!!!! Some people need to figure out what they are talking about before they talk about it.

I dont know who would call a ttb 50 junk or weak? they are not a d60, but a super upgrade for a ttb44 in all 80's fords, as they are a direct bolt in swap. I live on a large beef farm whear farm trucks get worked beyond belief and maintence is a never once a truck is lifted and put to work. I have three fords that have the ttb50 in the front and sterlings in the rear. A '81 f250, 460,4spd,7 inches of lift and 39.5 tsl's on the front and boggers on the back. this truck hauls 600 gallon of water twice a day and has for 3 sets of tires. It is run as hard as it will, and the front has never left us walking. the 84 f250 has a 460, 4spd , 6 inches of lift and 38.5 boggers. this truck hauls who knows how much feed every day. the hubs are always locked in and it is almost always in 4wd. every place we feed is a major mud mess and boggers are the only tire that makes farming possible for us. the other truck with the 50 in it is a '86 f250,351w,4spd, 6 inches of lift, and 38/11.00/16.5 boggers. this truck has not ever had plates on it and is used also every single day for just about everything. when you put a 50 under a truck, dont put junk parts in it if you want it to last. I use spicer x joints, moog ball joints, timken bearings, and warn premium hubs. if a 50 can take the abuse of farming full time and boggers every day, and a healthy big block/ 4 speed, I sure wont call them junk!!!!! Some people need to figure out what they are talking about before they talk about it.

This isn't farmer4x4. Running a loaded truck through mud is a lot different from bouncing off rocks and climbing near vertical walls.

I dont belong to farmer 4x4, My mud rig is a 79 350, all alum. 429, 4 spd, scs drop box on 20 ton clarks, 66 inch r2's. My farm trucks get run just as hard as my 79, so you should owne a 50 ttb before you knock one

I dont know who would call a ttb 50 junk or weak? they are not a d60, but a super upgrade for a ttb44 in all 80's fords, as they are a direct bolt in swap. I live on a large beef farm whear farm trucks get worked beyond belief and maintence is a never once a truck is lifted and put to work. I have three fords that have the ttb50 in the front and sterlings in the rear. A '81 f250, 460,4spd,7 inches of lift and 39.5 tsl's on the front and boggers on the back. this truck hauls 600 gallon of water twice a day and has for 3 sets of tires. It is run as hard as it will, and the front has never left us walking. the 84 f250 has a 460, 4spd , 6 inches of lift and 38.5 boggers. this truck hauls who knows how much feed every day. the hubs are always locked in and it is almost always in 4wd. every place we feed is a major mud mess and boggers are the only tire that makes farming possible for us. the other truck with the 50 in it is a '86 f250,351w,4spd, 6 inches of lift, and 38/11.00/16.5 boggers. this truck has not ever had plates on it and is used also every single day for just about everything. when you put a 50 under a truck, dont put junk parts in it if you want it to last. I use spicer x joints, moog ball joints, timken bearings, and warn premium hubs. if a 50 can take the abuse of farming full time and boggers every day, and a healthy big block/ 4 speed, I sure wont call them junk!!!!! Some people need to figure out what they are talking about before they talk about it.

You should practice what you preach :flipoff2:

I dont know who would call a ttb 50 junk or weak? they are not a d60, but a super upgrade for a ttb44 in all 80's fords, as they are a direct bolt in swap. I live on a large beef farm whear farm trucks get worked beyond belief and maintence is a never once a truck is lifted and put to work. I have three fords that have the ttb50 in the front and sterlings in the rear. A '81 f250, 460,4spd,7 inches of lift and 39.5 tsl's on the front and boggers on the back. this truck hauls 600 gallon of water twice a day and has for 3 sets of tires. It is run as hard as it will, and the front has never left us walking. the 84 f250 has a 460, 4spd , 6 inches of lift and 38.5 boggers. this truck hauls who knows how much feed every day. the hubs are always locked in and it is almost always in 4wd. every place we feed is a major mud mess and boggers are the only tire that makes farming possible for us. the other truck with the 50 in it is a '86 f250,351w,4spd, 6 inches of lift, and 38/11.00/16.5 boggers. this truck has not ever had plates on it and is used also every single day for just about everything. when you put a 50 under a truck, dont put junk parts in it if you want it to last. I use spicer x joints, moog ball joints, timken bearings, and warn premium hubs. if a 50 can take the abuse of farming full time and boggers every day, and a healthy big block/ 4 speed, I sure wont call them junk!!!!! Some people need to figure out what they are talking about before they talk about it.

And for the record, if you would have read the thread you'd have known this isn't about the TTB 50's, it's about the SOLID AXLE version. Way to clutter the thread up with more useless rambling about shit that doesn't pertain to the thread topic.

I dont know who would call a ttb 50 junk or weak? they are not a d60, but a super upgrade for a ttb44 in all 80's fords, as they are a direct bolt in swap. I live on a large beef farm whear farm trucks get worked beyond belief and maintence is a never once a truck is lifted and put to work. I have three fords that have the ttb50 in the front and sterlings in the rear. A '81 f250, 460,4spd,7 inches of lift and 39.5 tsl's on the front and boggers on the back. this truck hauls 600 gallon of water twice a day and has for 3 sets of tires. It is run as hard as it will, and the front has never left us walking. the 84 f250 has a 460, 4spd , 6 inches of lift and 38.5 boggers. this truck hauls who knows how much feed every day. the hubs are always locked in and it is almost always in 4wd. every place we feed is a major mud mess and boggers are the only tire that makes farming possible for us. the other truck with the 50 in it is a '86 f250,351w,4spd, 6 inches of lift, and 38/11.00/16.5 boggers. this truck has not ever had plates on it and is used also every single day for just about everything. when you put a 50 under a truck, dont put junk parts in it if you want it to last. I use spicer x joints, moog ball joints, timken bearings, and warn premium hubs. if a 50 can take the abuse of farming full time and boggers every day, and a healthy big block/ 4 speed, I sure wont call them junk!!!!! Some people need to figure out what they are talking about before they talk about it.

The dana 60 in the dodge under my cummins holds up fine dragging motorhomes in the dirt. Put it on rocks and it breaks 60 parts like nothing. You're comparing apples to grapefruits.

Ive seen my buddy run a Dana 50 for quite a few years running 40's on a Ranger. I think they are sweet for a cheap axle and the U-joint size is a major benefit over the Dana 44. He wasnt light on the skinny pedal either and only ever broke a stub shaft. Im currently rebuilding that axle/trussing and building high steer for a different friend ill post pics when its done

Is there a way to run 35 spline carriers and shafts that DON'T neck down.

I'd really like to be able to use the 60 sized shafts in a D50

This isn't farmer4x4. Running a loaded truck through mud is a lot different from bouncing off rocks and climbing near vertical walls.

Fawking Farmer4x4.............Hella Funny!:laughing:

I looked into it and there isn't a safe way to open up the carrier to allow for the 35 spline shafts.

I'm open to opinions.

I wanted to run smaller axles for the weight savings a Kingpin D60 is well over 500lbs.

I know what I'm doing is a lot of work for what I'm getting and if I really wanted to I could save up for Spider Trax axles but I wanted to try something different and I don't like relying on so many custom parts.

I'm going to run a HP60 rear so I don't really need a front axle stronger than my rear when the rear sees most of the loads. I'm building a light Ecotec buggy with less then 40" tires.

Front will be a HP44 center section from a 79ish F250. Have
The outers and shafts will be from a 2000 F250 super duty. Just picked up.
Both 30 spline so I can run the stock shafts for now.

The U-joints are the biggest problem on D44 they are just so little, and the more you steer the axle the more force you get on the joint etc.
This way I get larger U-joints. So now my spicer U-joints will be the same strength as the super expensive, super D44 U-joints

The Unit bearing is fine for me lighter than spindles and a lot stronger than a D44 hub. I'm going to redrill it for 5 on 5.5
And build my own Knuckles so I can build custom high steer arms and use smaller brakes.

Ball joints on the D50 are way larger way stronger than the D44. Just look the 2, the D44 knuckle doesn't look like it will last against the rocks.

The D44 can be upgraded to 35spline with an ARB. I actually have a stock set of 35spline SD D60 shafts, someone gave me.


Basically I'm going for a super duty D44 I was going to run a regular 44 but I figure it would be better to upgrade my size of my outer parts than just better metal.

It's a debate but I think saving the 100+ lbs in the front axle is a big deal, especially for a light buggy.

I'll keep you updated how my build goes I just picked up the D50 yesterday, $350 cheapest I can find in New England and the SD 60 from the F450 were like $1500 and only 1 in the area. Plus it is a dually.

~Justin

If the 44 can be upgraded to 35 spline with an ARB I'll bet ARB could make up a 35 spline unit for a Dana 50 too.

anyone know if D50 and D60's use the same spindle studs?

should be same as bj 60 spindle studs

If the 44 can be upgraded to 35 spline with an ARB I'll bet ARB could make up a 35 spline unit for a Dana 50 too.

I think Six States used to have a machine shop anneal, broach, reharden the side gears. I was looking at using a 50 and asked them about it. Pinion shaft diameter becomes the weak point.

I think Six States used to have a machine shop anneal, broach, reharden the side gears. I was looking at using a 50 and asked them about it. Pinion shaft diameter becomes the weak point.


Are you referring to a stock carrier?

So if the side gears can be worked out, then I assume the carrier itself will accept a 1.5" shaft. Is that right?

So here is a Dana 50 Q...or more like a story. I was walking through the scrap yard looking for metal and the kid working there was about to cut up this:554684
So I bought it for less then a song thinking it was a 60. Turns out its a 50. :( What should I do with it? The diff looks like is had plenty of room for a dana 60 gear. LOOK HOW MUCH ROOM THER EIS FOR ACTIVITIES! :554685

BOM says its out of a 99 SD. On a side note....I had a ford 8 lug HP 44 and both times I broke it it was the u-joint. Yeah its only for 30 spline shafts but the u-joints sem to be the weak point thus making the 50 stronger IMO. Now what do I do with it? Put a dana 60 gear in it? Shave it like a 14 bolt? I have 2 dana 60 rears...put the outers on the rear axle to make a LP60 front? I just bought a 99 SD so keep it for spare parts?

There HAS to be a way to run 35 spline shafts in a Dana 50. The Dana 44 guys are using 1.5" 35 spline shafts.....If you can talk to ARB and get a 35 spline D50 ARB, you could install that, and then install inner axles from a 60. That way they won't neck down, and drop down to 30 spline.

The only thing you would be giving up is some R&P size....

Put another way, it may not be a 60, but it sure as heck isn't a 44 either.

There HAS to be a way to run 35 spline shafts in a Dana 50. The Dana 44 guys are using 1.5" 35 spline shafts.....If you can talk to ARB and get a 35 spline D50 ARB, you could install that, and then install inner axles from a 60. That way they won't neck down, and drop down to 30 spline.

The only thing you would be giving up is some R&P size....

Put another way, it may not be a 60, but it sure as heck isn't a 44 either.


The pinion shaft size being smaller than a 60 is what made me decide not to run it under my fullsize on 38s in the rocks. You could cryo to help with strength. I think it would be OK under most Jeep size stuff. It is def better than a 44.

You cannot put 60 guts in it, at least not without lineboring the housing etc.

Supposedly you can do a hybrid Dana 44/50/60
HP 44 housing
50 carrier and Gears
60 lock right
60 shafts?
Not sure about outers and such.
Something like that.


Can any one confirm that you can in fact machine a 60 lock right and stuff it into a 50 carrier? I haven't been able to find concrete evidence, pics, or anything that demonstrates that it is possible. I know Jantz was saying that you could machine 60 spider gears and slap them in a 50 carrier and weld them up. That works, but what if I don't want a spool, welded diff, or want to spend the money on a 35 spline D44 ARB? The 60 spider gears in a 50 carrier leads me to believe that it may possibly work, but like I said, I have yet to see any evidence of some one doing it.

Supposedly you can do a hybrid Dana 44/50/60
HP 44 housing
50 carrier and Gears
60 lock right
60 shafts?
Not sure about outers and such.
Something like that.


Can any one confirm that you can in fact machine a 60 lock right and stuff it into a 50 carrier? I haven't been able to find concrete evidence, pics, or anything that demonstrates that it is possible. I know Jantz was saying that you could machine 60 spider gears and slap them in a 50 carrier and weld them up. That works, but what if I don't want a spool, welded diff, or want to spend the money on a 35 spline D44 ARB? The 60 spider gears in a 50 carrier leads me to believe that it may possibly work, but like I said, I have yet to see any evidence of some one doing it.


The D44 and D50 us about the same size carrier bearings actually I think the D50 are actually smaller.
That being said good luck trying to fit 35splines though, you can do it but it is going to extremely thin. Thinner than I would want to mess with. See if you can find the carrier bearing part number and look up the ID see how much room you could possible have.
You might be better off just cutting splines into an open carrier and converting it into a 35 spline spool, not going to be hardened.

When ARB puts 35 splines in an D44 they also us different bearings that increase the carrier bearing ID to make more room.

There was talk about ARB making a 35spline locker for the D50, I don't know where that stands.

that's the reason for the D44 carrier over the D50 To get 35 spline you can then install D50 gears on a D44, Jana54, then use the D50 outers which is the same as the D60.

If you don't have any requirments like to fit in a stock class then I would say just build a D60.

Some of what I've found W/R/T the Dana 50 indicates they were all high pinion. Is this really the case?

The D44 and D50 us about the same size carrier bearings actually I think the D50 are actually smaller.
That being said good luck trying to fit 35splines though, you can do it but it is going to extremely thin. Thinner than I would want to mess with. See if you can find the carrier bearing part number and look up the ID see how much room you could possible have.
You might be better off just cutting splines into an open carrier and converting it into a 35 spline spool, not going to be hardened.

When ARB puts 35 splines in an D44 they also us different bearings that increase the carrier bearing ID to make more room.

There was talk about ARB making a 35spline locker for the D50, I don't know where that stands.

that's the reason for the D44 carrier over the D50 To get 35 spline you can then install D50 gears on a D44, Jana54, then use the D50 outers which is the same as the D60.

If you don't have any requirments like to fit in a stock class then I would say just build a D60.

I was afraid of that. I'd still like to see if some one had done the 60 lock right in a 50 carrier and find out how it worked out. I really cant find much on the old Maxles. Its getting frustrating.

Another option is to just stick with a 30 spline shaft for now. I'm more worried about popping u-joints then breaking at the splines. I can always have shafts comp cut and cryo'd to fend off paranoia. I was trying to find the length of the D50 inners. My guess would be that they're the same or close to similar year D60 shafts. It would be nice to be able to use junk yard/off the shelf shafts. Definitely more cheap for sure. The only problem I can see is that I've got a 79' HP44, so if I remember correctly, the lengths of my inners will be different. 35 spline 78-79 60 shafts would be near perfect, which is why I was looking into a cheap way to run 35 spline shafts. It also would give some aftermarket options. Retubing is something I'd like to avoid, but we'll see what happens. This is something I'd like to try to get to some time this winter, but renovating the shop and rebuilding an engine and trans are going to come first. If I get to it, then I get to it. If I don't then I'll put my brackets on the axle and run the axle with a 50 R&P and explode shit with v8 power and gear reduction. :laughing:

A 60 is out of budget period. As stupid as it sounds, its much easier for me to do something that I can piece together at the moment. It sucks, but that's the way it is. Eh, maybe if I can come up with a cheapish way to stuff 35 spline crap in D44 that's easy to machine I could make some money. :laughing:

Brad,

Stay on the lookout for Dana 50s on Craigslist. I've seen them go for $100 all the time up here, you could get someone to pick it up (like me) and get it expressed to ya. Put the outers on the hp44 and have Jantz narrow the shafts if you want. Run it until you blow up the gears (how many hp44 gear sets are blown up outside competition???) instead of worrying. :D

As for 35 spline stuff, it's just the side years of the lunchbox locker that matter. Have you considered taking a regular 44 lunchbox locker and machining down some 60 35 spline side gears to slide in place of the 30 spline 44 side gears?

Brad,

Stay on the lookout for Dana 50s on Craigslist. I've seen them go for $100 all the time up here, you could get someone to pick it up (like me) and get it expressed to ya. Put the outers on the hp44 and have Jantz narrow the shafts if you want. Run it until you blow up the gears (how many hp44 gear sets are blown up outside competition???) instead of worrying. :D

As for 35 spline stuff, it's just the side years of the lunchbox locker that matter. Have you considered taking a regular 44 lunchbox locker and machining down some 60 35 spline side gears to slide in place of the 30 spline 44 side gears?

After talking to Tim, I have doubts about machining the D44 carrier to put 35 spline shafts in them. I'm not sure about the 50's either. After talking to him and absorbing the information, I now have about a million more questions.

I'm starting to wonder if it might be more easy to just pick up a 50 and shave the diff and run that as is. I certainly can not afford a 60, but if I sold the D44 and picked up a 50, then I could probably make a little money. Who knows, the hybrid would kick ass if I could get it figured out. If I stuck with 30 spline shafts and could find an off the shelf shaft that worked, then I'd jump all over that and abandon the whole 35 spline idea until I could afford a 35 spline ARB.

I just picked up a dana 50 in Portland for 150.00 and thats the cheapest I have seen on cl for a year. The inner axle shaft measure 34.5 and 13.125 aprox. If you are looking for a 50 make shure the unit bearings are good.

Just to add some solid tech & food for thought.
The Dana 50 uses a HP 9" ring gear (I personally wonder if these are the gears a TruHi9 uses).
Essentially a factory HPBJ609 with too much housing.
I wonder how different the the ARB lockers really are between the 9" & D50.
Seems like a side gear swap & one could potentially toss factory 35 spline shafts in. How long before we see a D50 shave kit, akin to the 14 bolt ?
You can put that in your suggestions thread Trevin. :D


Ring gear measures 9.0".
30 Spline Axle shafts.
Gear Ratios: 3.55:1 - 5.38:1
No carrier breaks
Pinion shaft diameter: 1.375"
Pinion shaft splines: 26
Axle shaft diameter: 1.21"
Axle spline diameter: 1.31"

http://www.precisiongear.com/dana50.htm

Model........Ring gear size".....Max momentary output torque FT-lb
D30..........7.125...........2350*
D35......7.562.............2500
D35 super..7.79...........2700
Toy 8"............8.0 ................NA
D44...............8.5..........3460
GM10B...........8.6..........4500
GM 12B...........8.875..............NA
D50................9.0................5000
D60 30sp........9.75...............5500
D60 HD 35 sp...9.75...............6000
D70...............10.5................8000
D70 HD...........10.5...............8800
D80...............11.0.............10,000

are they really high pinion?

The Dana 50 in the front of my 01 Excursion is high pinion as well as a 96 F250 I parted out. I would assume all of them are? :confused:

Derek

are they really high pinion?


Shrug, I'm by no means an expert - or even mildly knowledgeable, but that looks right to me ?
It's turning on the correct, 'drive' side of the gear ?
Am I totally off ?

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=554685&d=1287621660

The Dana 50 in the front of my 01 Excursion is high pinion as well as a 96 F250 I parted out. I would assume all of them are? :confused:

Derek

Thanx! That's all I needed to convince me to go forth!

Just to add some solid tech & food for thought.
The Dana 50 uses a HP 9" ring gear (I personally wonder if these are the gears a TruHi9 uses).
Essentially a factory HPBJ609 with too much housing.
I wonder how different the the ARB lockers really are between the 9" & D50.
Seems like a side gear swap & one could potentially toss factory 35 spline shafts in. How long before we see a D50 shave kit, akin to the 14 bolt ?
You can put that in your suggestions thread Trevin. :D


Ring gear measures 9.0".
30 Spline Axle shafts.
Gear Ratios: 3.55:1 - 5.38:1
No carrier breaks
Pinion shaft diameter: 1.375"
Pinion shaft splines: 26
Axle shaft diameter: 1.21"
Axle spline diameter: 1.31"

http://www.precisiongear.com/dana50.htm

Model........Ring gear size".....Max momentary output torque FT-lb
D30..........7.125...........2350*
D35......7.562.............2500
D35 super..7.79...........2700
Toy 8"............8.0 ................NA
D44...............8.5..........3460
GM10B...........8.6..........4500
GM 12B...........8.875..............NA
D50................9.0................5000
D60 30sp........9.75...............5500
D60 HD 35 sp...9.75...............6000
D70...............10.5................8000
D70 HD...........10.5...............8800
D80...............11.0.............10,000

This is very good info. Its probably a long shot on the side gears though. I could be totally off base and maybe Tech Tim will chime in, but you'd lose a lot of material off the journals to fit the shafts in the lockers. Who knows if the side gears would fit, but even if they did, would the journals have enough material to remain strong? I don't know.

Werd Josh I'll have to add that to my thread in nonhardcore :D

I'd like to see dimensions of carriers - 50 vs 60 vs 9" - or at least a picture comparing the 3 or 2 of 'em. Maybe a picture of the 50, 60, and 9 lunchbox lockers?

Currie uses RC 8.8 gears in their hi9 thirds. Do they use regular 9 carriers or must they use 8.8 stuff?

Werd Josh I'll have to add that to my thread in nonhardcore :D

I'd like to see dimensions of carriers - 50 vs 60 vs 9" - or at least a picture comparing the 3 or 2 of 'em. Maybe a picture of the 50, 60, and 9 lunchbox lockers?

Currie uses RC 8.8 gears in their hi9 thirds. Do they use regular 9 carriers or must they use 8.8 stuff?

Yeah, hopefully some one can chime in with a comparison shot of both 50/60/9 carriers and the respective lunch box lockers.

Either way, with the research I've been doing, it seems as though there's a fair amount of machining and work involved. For those of us with the means to do it or have it done and who already have a 50 or who want to build a hybrid with 35 spline axles, this could shed some light on some sparsely explored territory.

Werd Josh I'll have to add that to my thread in nonhardcore :D

I'd like to see dimensions of carriers - 50 vs 60 vs 9" - or at least a picture comparing the 3 or 2 of 'em. Maybe a picture of the 50, 60, and 9 lunchbox lockers?

Currie uses RC 8.8 gears in their hi9 thirds. Do they use regular 9 carriers or must they use 8.8 stuff?

I'd like to see the TruHi9 'proprietary' R&P alongside the D50 R&P . . . :D
I'm pretty sure currie uses the Ford IFS HP8.8 carrier (and gears, obviously) in the CHP 3rd ensemble.

Yeah, hopefully some one can chime in with a comparison shot of both 50/60/9 carriers and the respective lunch box lockers.



If I have time tomorrow, I'll try to take some pics of a 9" center and a D60 and D50 to compare.

I'd like to see the TruHi9 'proprietary' R&P alongside the D50 R&P . . . :D
I'm pretty sure currie uses the Ford IFS HP8.8 carrier (and gears, obviously) in the CHP 3rd ensemble.




Our gears are dimensionally the same as low pinion 9 inch gears if ya want to compare sizewise.

The Currie 8.8/9 HP uses 9 inch differentials, the ring gear bolt pattern is the same between the 8.8 and 9 inch Ford stuff.

If I have time tomorrow, I'll try to take some pics of a 9" center and a D60 and D50 to compare.

That would be awesome. I'm looking forward to seeing that. Thanks man!

Our gears are dimensionally the same as low pinion 9 inch gears if ya want to compare sizewise.

The Currie 8.8/9 HP uses 9 inch differentials, the ring gear bolt pattern is the same between the 8.8 and 9 inch Ford stuff.

What about compared to the D50 gears ?
If all 9" ring gears are the same size & D50 gears are reverse cut hp9" - how are they different than yours ?
I'm assuming the D50 doesn't have a secondary pinion support, thus making it inferior to your product - but is the ring gear the same ?

Good to know on the Currie stuff. :)

The Dana 50 uses a HP 9" ring gear (I personally wonder if these are the gears a TruHi9 uses).


That is 100% no on TruHi9, those guys cut custom gears. The TruHi9 and ford 9" has a large hypoid offset they are really high or really low depending on which way you are looking.
Dana axles use a small hypoid offset closer to the middle
That's kind of why 9" have longer teeth and Dana has shorter teeth.
Fords"9 and TruHi9 also have the third pinion bearing.

are they really high pinion?

Pretty sure all D50 are front axles and all are high pinion.

The D50 housings are huge for whats inside. But it would be a lot easier in my mind to just shave the D50 housing like I said ARB is working on a 35 spline locker for the D50 you can call and ask again.

I was going to put D50 knuckles on my D44 basically use the money on larger U-joint and stronger ball joints unit bearings. instead of spending the money on expensive metals CTM etc. I will still do that if I run Class 1 limits to OEM size axle so TJ came with D44 so limited to a D44 housing.
But then I saw the light all the time money and work put in was better off just buying a D60.
We can get D60 around $500 around here I actually have a junkyard complete 80's KP DRW HP ford axle I'm trying to sell $500

Hell you can buy a brand new housing for around $600


I have a D50 all taken apart in my garage if you really need pictures let me know. The D50 carrier bearings have a smaller OD so might be what is taking the 35 spline lockers so long to come out.

Here is a little tech me installing D50 gears in a D44
http://sisoffroad.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10664&highlight=jana

Motive gear said they were going to come out with a 35spline D44 spool.

Another option I came up with was to buy a D60 35spline spool. I believe they are splined all the way through. They looke to have a enough material to whittle away a D44 spool.

Good luck let us know what you come up with.
~Justin

Anyone have a D44 or D50 carrier bearing part number handy or the ID size.
Just to compare that to a 35spline shaft to see how much room you actually have.

That is 100% no on TruHi9, those guys cut custom gears. The TruHi9 and ford 9" has a large hypoid offset they are really high or really low depending on which way you are looking.
Dana axles use a small hypoid offset closer to the middle
That's kind of why 9" have longer teeth and Dana has shorter teeth.
Fords"9 and TruHi9 also have the third pinion bearing.



~Justin


I understand TruHi9 has their gears made by Richmond Gear.
My question is not concerning the hypoid offset, nor the pinion, nor the 3rd pinion bearing - all of which I mentioned above. My question is specifically about the potential similarities of the ring gears themselves, both of which are specified as HP 9" gears. :)

I just picked up a dana 50 in Portland for 150.00 and thats the cheapest I have seen on cl for a year. The inner axle shaft measure 34.5 and 13.125 aprox. If you are looking for a 50 make shure the unit bearings are good.

I'll give you $175 for it :D

D50
OD 3.25 LM104911A
ID 1.9685 JLM104948

D44
OD 3.265 25523
ID 1.796 25590

Not sure if that is correct for all D44HP but should be from an older Ford. There are standard bearings available up to 2.0 ID that fit the 3.25/3.265 OD's

Does the 35 spline D44 ARB have a 2.0" bearing register?

D60 is 2.25"

I almost have enough parts laying around to build a HP44 with D60 BJ outers so this is interesting to me.


Anyone have a D44 or D50 carrier bearing part number handy or the ID size.
Just to compare that to a 35spline shaft to see how much room you actually have.