So I'm working on designing a 3 Link. I've talked to people with them and they say it feels fine on the street even at free way speeds.

When talking with a friend of mine, he said he's worried about it. Controlling the axle angle without the other upper? Don't the uppers prevent the axle from moving?

Is a 3 Link Streetable?

A triangulated 3 link prevents the axle from moving side to side. It's not like a normal 3 link with a panhard bar, which is really a form of a 4 link. The upper is basically a 4 link but the top links are connected together.

I've read a number of threads regarding the design and viability of 3-link front ends on Jeeps.
It appears a properly designed system is safe to use on the high way.
I'd assume since you can buy commercial versions, that safety and function on the highway is proven. Look here:
http://www.discountjeepparts.com/product_info.php/products_id/24133

I'll have 2 lowers, a signal driver side upper and a track bar.

This one gets cruised on the street, or should I say has just started. He's put a couple hundred miles on it and having driven it. I will say it rides and handles awesome, we're not even putting a sway bar on it. Since the springs and shocks are outboarded as far as they'll go it doesn't sway hardly at all. He's not gonna be ripping through the beltloop around DC at 80mph either though. :laughing:

3 Link Y link with trac bar
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/JonsZR2287.jpg

EDIT
Yours is a Jeep, lighter, shorter wheelbase. Theory still applies IMHO. Oops no shocks in that pic, there are now though.

This one gets cruised on the street, or should I say has just started. He's put a couple hundred miles on it and having driven it. I will say it rides and handles awesome, we're not even putting a sway bar on it. Since the springs and shocks are outboarded as far as they'll go it doesn't sway hardly at all. He's not gonna be ripping through the beltloop around DC at 80mph either though. :laughing:

3 Link Y link with trac bar
http://i244.photobucket.com/albums/gg18/snopro007/JonsZR2287.jpg

EDIT
Yours is a Jeep, lighter, shorter wheelbase. Theory still applies IMHO. Oops no shocks in that pic, there are now though.

I run the same front setup on my TJ and it drives great on the road. The only difference is that I do have a small swaybar (antirock) and my radius arm is on the passenger side.

I run the same front setup on my TJ and it drives great on the road. The only difference is that I do have a small swaybar (antirock) and my radius arm is on the passenger side.

If this had links in the rear like your TJ, an anti-rock would be a must.

I'm not talking y links, I'm talking a true 3 link.

Also, my shit is not light either. ZJ is a bit heavier then a TJ.

I'm not talking y links, I'm talking a true 3 link.

Also, my shit is not light either. ZJ is a bit heavier then a TJ.

Well I'm not trying to get into an argument but I don't foresee your handling with a "true" 3 link to be any worse or better than a y link 3 link or a 4 link that comes on most factory ZJ lifts. A true 3 link like yours won't fight travel as much and "might" be more tipsy but with sway bars you'll be fine. There is ALOT that goes on in the design that determines your handling characteristics. I guess I'd suggest searching some builds if you haven't already, and running some calculators as well. You need to determine what numbers your shooting for based on what performance you expect and the type of wheeling you do.

Here is a link to a build up of an xterra on our local board which weighs as much or more than your ZJ. He's happy with it but is changing to a radius arm y link setup. I have hopes to do a double triangulated 4 link in the rear of my ZJ, and a Y link 3 link front since I don't want full hydro on this particular rig. I guess from what "I've" seen I don't see the advantage to doing a "true" 3 link. But we all have our own opinions.

http://rustybucket4x4.freeforums.org/sas-xterra-t104.html

[QUOTE=ROXROES;8074072] I don't see the advantage to doing a "true" 3 link. But we all have our own opinions.QUOTE]

The only advantage that I could see to using a "real" 3 link and panhard opposed to one radius arm a link and a panhard, is that you could control pinion angle and castor through out suspension travel. That factor may be important for higher speed work but certainly not required by everyone.

The only advantage that I could see to using a "real" 3 link and panhard opposed to one radius arm a link and a panhard, is that you could control pinion angle and castor through out suspension travel. That factor may be important for higher speed work but certainly not required by everyone.

Very true, the S10 has a 78 Ford low pinion 44 in it. The pinion was rotated to I think 12-15*, the castor is set at 6*. The suspension in the front has 5" uptravel, 11" down so 16" total. The pinion angle looks great throughout the suspension motion. Maybe on really hard hits going down the road you "may" feel the castor change. But so far he says it drives great, and I was in my buddies tow rig following it at 60+ Saturday and it tracked straight and it looked like and he said it was still driving great. I could see where it would dive if the side of the road dipped after you came over a knoll and back down in a hollow, but I didn't see any left-right-left-right steering correction from him having to get it back under control.