Yes, I searched. Found a little info, but none that helped me. I didnt even see the posts that I remember replying to last year.

ANYWAYS...

I have a 1 wire GM alternator. Its a 95 amp. It was built by a local shop. Warrantee is up or I would be there right now.

It had been working just fine for a long time, then all of the sudden, it wont charge.

I took it to an auto parts place to get tested. When hooked up with 1 wire, it wouldnt register voltage. Then he hooked up the plug and "said" that it was working, but couldnt tell me how well.

So I bring it back home and put it back on the truck. And start it up. Still wont work. I charge the battery with my charger incase you are wondering.

Then I hooked up the wires as I think they go. I looked at my friends truck that has a standard GM alternator wired into his toyota. After I get it hooked up, still wont go.

He had both his wires hooked to a ignition source. Except the smaller one had ripped out, but everything still worked.


I took the alternator apart, prior to getting it tested, and it looked normal in there.

Any one have any ideas?

This fawker cost me $95. I dont want to spend another $95 this week.

you need 12 volts to the #2 blade terminal. use a keyed source or jump the charge wire to the #2 terminal, the internal regulator is rpm sensative ,about 1800 rpm. it should charge at all rpm's after the reg. has been activated

More than likey your stator and your armature are fine. Pull it apart and check the stator windings to make sure there are no shorts between the phase windings. You have three. once they are confirmed not to be shorted. then check the arm windings and make sure there are no shorts there. If you find no shorts there. Then check the diode this has three legs in, that were screwed to the stator windings and one out. use an ohm meter and make sure the continuity only flows one way. (toward the the single end)
if its good it means you need a voltage regulator. Make sure you look for burned spots on the windings, the diode and the voltage regulator to make sure there are no temporary shorts.

VERY IMPORTANT there is no way to tell if the voltage regulator by it self is bad without a test bench. So it is imortant to ellminate the others.

You can buy all of the parts except the ARM at napa. your best bet for the home rebuild is get a diode, a voltage regulator and a new set of brushes. this is under 20 bucks. and swap the parts. very simple to do.

This is listed in several manuals