about to put a 302 in a bronco 2 could use some pics or tips for putting it in

i have a 300 I6 in one.

i have a 300 I6 in one.

id like to see that, i pulled one outof a 82 f250 and those things are heavy and long

i'll have to buck-up for the red star so i can post some pics.

id like to see that, i pulled one outof a 82 f250 and those things are heavy and long

they arent THAT heavy. for the cubic inches, they are actually very similar to the V8 weights.

But, they are a long SOB.

Use poly fox body mustang mounts. I didn't and made plates to use the stock V6 mounts. It was like bolting it to jello. This springs project is to change to stang mounts and convert to EFI. Oh, and start off right with at least a 26x19 Aluminum rad from summit or jegs. I used a 4.0 HD rad and it works fine on the street, but is maxed out quick in the warm months on the trail. You'll also want to fold the firewall seam over flat to give yourself room for the trans.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/flatseam.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/v8bellontrans.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/passtemplate2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/302insideview.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/serpintine2.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/SUNP0082.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/SUNP0030.jpg

your gonna want to add an extra brace on your frame, the 5L and b2 frames dont exactly get along

heres my proof:
http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42487&highlight=#42487

your gonna want to add an extra brace on your frame, the 5L and b2 frames dont exactly get along

heres my proof:
http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42487&highlight=#42487

Not that I don't believe you, but all I see is someone bitching about frame issues in that thread with no pics or proof that it is engine related.

The BII frames seem a bit weak elsewhere, but the engine mounts are in the same area as where the front suspension mounts as well. That area is boxed (because of the crossmember) and has a crossmember in it. I could potentially see more frame issues from wheeling a bronco II hard and flexing the frame fore and aft of the engine/suspension crossmember due to the suspension than from a motor flexing the frame, but my BII is still a jackstand wheeler at the moment so I don't really know at this point.

EDIT: Totalled, what water pump and accessory brackets are you using on your motor? I've been planning on using the SN95 Mustang/Explorer V8 stuff if I can round everything up to keep the motor a little shorter than the truck stuff that I have currently.

Not that I don't believe you, but all I see is someone bitching about frame issues in that thread with no pics or proof that it is engine related.

The BII frames seem a bit weak elsewhere, but the engine mounts are in the same area as where the front suspension mounts as well. That area is boxed (because of the crossmember) and has a crossmember in it. I could potentially see more frame issues from wheeling a bronco II hard and flexing the frame fore and aft of the engine/suspension crossmember due to the suspension than from a motor flexing the frame, but my BII is still a jackstand wheeler at the moment so I don't really know at this point.

It's not the motor that kills the frame, it's you rust belt Canadians that take rusty trucks that should be scrapped and try to save them, then bitch when their corroded ass parts fail after you use them hard.

As you can see in my pick above, I cut out way more of the top of the core support than I should have, and ended up having it crack and break the piece left that the hood latch bolts to from the frame flex torquing the front clip. The frame on mine flexes quite a but since I still have stiff ass TTB coils in it. I am putting a new core support and rad in this summer, along with softer coils to fix those problems.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/4111-1.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/core-support1.jpg

So I did this as a temp fix and it's lasted a year, but I'm replacing the whole support as it has other damage anyway.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/core-support4.jpg

EDIT: Totalled, what water pump and accessory brackets are you using on your motor? I've been planning on using the SN95 Mustang/Explorer V8 stuff if I can round everything up to keep the motor a little shorter than the truck stuff that I have currently.

HD cast iron crown vic cop police spec pump, with 80-91 Crown vic/marquis/towncar accessories. The stock 65 amp alternator falls into place. There was a 100 amp alt option on those cars that has a larger case, and I have those brackets too for when I put the 130 amp 3G alt on I picked up. I'll probably go pick up the air pump from a vic so I can be smog legal when I put a cat on it, and since it shares it's bracket with the A/C comp, I'll probably try to adapt the york I have onto it for OBA too.

Anyway, yeah. They are standard rotation, long water pump, but use a serp belt. They put the PS pump up a bit higher than the mustang setup, so it clears the oil filter adapter a bit better.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/V8%20Swap/accessories.jpg

totalled, the salt we get is nothing compared to the east and west coast. Have you been up here? I've seen pics of others rigs on here that have more rust then our vehicles do.

His frame was still true with and squared with the 2.8, when the 5L was thrown in it went wheeling twice, and both times it was crawling at 5mph

His frame was still true with and squared with the 2.8, when the 5L was thrown in it went wheeling twice, and both times it was crawling at 5mph

Got any proof that it was because of the motor and not the wheeling?

Again, I question my BII frame for wheeling and the crazy flexing that it can put on a frame that isn't reinforced, not motor weight or power. There have been enough people putting v8 motors in Rangers and BIIs that I would have thought I'd have heard something before now if frame strength is an issue with v8 power.

I dunno? :confused:

Well, I thought I remembered he complained about this one having rust problems before he put the 5.0 into it.. so..

Mekcanix Jan 11 2007, 05:35 PM | Post #8|
yeah it was a blast even after i bent the rear frame on the drivers side UP about a inch and a half thought i knocked out my teeth i dropped off a 7 ft rock ledge and the rock at the bottom was covered in snow OWIE

Or it could be that he was harder on it than the rest of use usually are..

If putting a V8 into these bent that frame up by itself, there'd be allot more about it on the net.. I've had a 302 in mine for 3 years now and my frame is as solid as the day I bought it.

Well, I thought I remembered he complained about this one having rust problems before he put the 5.0 into it.. so..



Or it could be that he was harder on it than the rest of use usually are..

If putting a V8 into these bent that frame up by itself, there'd be allot more about it on the net.. I've had a 302 in mine for 3 years now and my frame is as solid as the day I bought it.


The main parts that the salt eat away at here is fords brilliant enginueinty (sp) for there body creases and dog legs; but those are the areas i seen being eaten in other areas of north america.

I just thought i would voice it out, and show that it is a possible weakness, thats all.

The main parts that the salt eat away at here is fords brilliant enginueinty (sp) for there body creases and dog legs; but those are the areas i seen being eaten in other areas of north america.

I just thought i would voice it out, and show that it is a possible weakness, thats all.

:) Noted. It's not common though.

your gonna want to add an extra brace on your frame, the 5L and b2 frames dont exactly get along

heres my proof:
http://www.broncoii-ranger.com/forum/viewtopic.php?p=42487&highlight=#42487

This is BS! The ranger/broncoII frame is a tough frame. I have had a 302 in my BII for FIFTEEN years. Was a dd for 8 of those, and have been a trailer queen since then (for trail, not for show :flipoff2:). Even did the tough truck twice in Burlington, VT. A 6 feet jump (under the tires) and a 35mph rollover and the frame is still good to go.
Extra bracing, yeah right! :laughing:

ya i got the v8 engine mounts from duffs that worked pretty sweet and i also got the headers and radiator that the carry for the swap got old engine out and put the 302 in with the new headers today and every thing went pretty smooth defintly easyer to do the duffs mounts instead of fabin up something it put the engine in a good place!

going to try and get the c4 and dana 20 in tomorrow and mount the duffs twin sticks and figure out tranny shifter then finish up every thing else on the motor and try to put the dana 44 and 9 inch in tuesday!

Use poly fox body mustang mounts. I didn't and made plates to use the stock V6 mounts. It was like bolting it to jello.

Are the mustang mounts to use for the coupe or the convertible? I was planning on using my v6 mounts until I read this...

If you use stock replacement mounts, they say to use convertable. The aftermarket poly mounts don't differentiate between the two. After taking a look at a friend's ranger with the poly mounts, I decided to use them. His motor sits as low as mine with the V6 mounts/plates and it's as close to solid as you can get in a mount.

The poly mounts I got:

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/bronco2dotorg/IMG_02621.jpg

If you use stock replacement mounts, they say to use convertable. The aftermarket poly mounts don't differentiate between the two. After taking a look at a friend's ranger with the poly mounts, I decided to use them. His motor sits as low as mine with the V6 mounts/plates and it's as close to solid as you can get in a mount.

I was pretty sure that the poly mounts replicated the convertible mounts, but thought I would ask. :)

Those manifolds look like a set off of a v8 explorer.

Yep. I'm replacing my craptastic tubular style explorer manifolds with the better flowing (and hopefully less heat radiating) cast style. :)

Yep. I'm replacing my craptastic tubular style explorer manifolds with the better flowing (and hopefully less heat radiating) cast style. :)

They probably fit well, but I think you could do better than them flow wise. I was amazed at how shitty Ford exhaust manifolds (as well as a lot of their heads) are as compared to other manufacturers when I first started playing around with Ford stuff.

From everything I've read, it doesn't sound like a set of Mustang shorty headers would be that hard to fit in a Bronco II or Ranger, but unfortunately I'm nowhere near that stage in the conversion to know for sure yet.

I did a bit more searching on motor mounts this morning, and the ones that Advance adapters sell look like Mustang coupe mounts in the pictures. The pictures I have found of the convertible mounts don't look like the motor placement would be that different however (if any?) which would explain why one size fits all in the aftermarket mounts.

thanks for the im put and pics got it all done engine fits great and the dana 20 twin sticks ended up comein right through the factory 4 wheel shifter hole and the axles went under it pretty easy after the duffs arms up front the 5.5 eb duffs springs and duffs coil cups it sits up about 9 inchs i was able to fit the 36s with out even cutting any finders!

They probably fit well, but I think you could do better than them flow wise. I was amazed at how shitty Ford exhaust manifolds (as well as a lot of their heads) are as compared to other manufacturers when I first started playing around with Ford stuff.

Right. But I spent $450 to have exhaust scratch built :shaking: to bolt up to the explorer manifolds, so I'm gonna get my moneys worth out of it.

The motor is stock with a restrictive carb and intake. It makes great low end torque, is done by 4,000 rpm, and I don't drag race it... so it's enough for me right now. :)

Mustang shorties spread out to wide from the motor.. the passenger side dumps right into the frame rail. You can cut/turn the header, or hack the frame..

Headman 88400 shorty headers for an early mustang/falcon, fairlane seem to fit pretty well if you don't want to buy duff longtubes.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/headman88400-2.jpg
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b248/totalled/pirate4x4/headman88400-4.jpg