I've been watching several build-ups on here and am wondering why so many guys put triangulated 4-links in the rear but don't do the same in the front, eliminating the front track bar. Is there a down side to doing this? Does a front 4-link cause too much wheel hop or is it because there's just not enough room up front for it or what?

For the most part it's a clearance issue or preference. It doesn't cause wheel hop at all,it actually prevents it very well.

We did it in my bro's front, but being that it drives on the road as a DD we are concerned. If ONE of the eight ends get play the slop side to side is very significant and apparent. There usually is more side to side forces on a front axle compared to rear in most cases. The more apparent play in the front is mostly because the links are leading and the slop acts sort of like a shackle forward rig with bad bushings. Compare that to a rig with shackles in the rear with bad bushings and they track better. Rear triagulated 4 links have arms that are trailing and an end with play isn't as noticable.

Like Jim said, it is hard to fit them as well, we managed to with my bro's rig (LumberJack5500), but we are going to add a track bar as well just as a precaution. Triangualated four links put ALOT of stress on the ends, and a track bar really releives this and in turn adds the properly loaded ends for lateral location of the axle.

When I link the front of mine I will have my lowers about 10* out, and the uppers about 5* in because it seems to clear everything well, and then run a panhard.

With a triangulated 4-link front and normal drag link steering, you will experience bump steer as your suspension compresses and unloads, as your axle will go straight up and down and your drag link will want to push or pull side to side. To eliminate this, many 4-link fronts use a full hydro steering setup.

By using a 3-link front with trac-bar (panhard), you can eliminate bump steer by having the drag link and trac-bar at the same angle and similar lengths, effectively giving them the same range of movement.

edit: spelling

Because you need hydro steering or every time the suspension opens and closes the steering wheel spins.

Also clearance It requires more lift then one with a trac bar.

With a triangulated 4-link front and normal drag link steering, you will experience bump steer as your suspension compresses and unloads, as your axle will go straight up and down and your drag link will want to push or pull side to side. To eliminate this, many 4-link fronts use a full hydro steering setup.

By using a 3-link front with trac-bar (panhard), you can eliminate bump steer by having the drag link and trac-bar at the same angle and similar lengths, effectively giving them the same range of movement.

edit: spelling

Wrong. This is very commonly said, but if you set it up CORRECTLY you DON'T get bump steer!

I keep arguing this over and over, people need to stop spewing this! What do you think leaf springs do? For the most part go straight up and down! Set the drag link level at ride height and you are good to go, my bro's rig is triangulated front four link with a steering box, NO bump steer. How much you really think your suspension travels in normal everyday driving, etc?

It doesnt require hydro, just learn how to set things up right.

And it doesn't always require more lift to clear. If you want it that bad you make other things clear the suspension, not have the suspension clear the other parts. Choose your priorities and stick to doing them right.

Wrong. This is very commonly said, but if you set it up CORRECTLY you DON'T get bump steer!

I keep arguing this over and over, people need to stop spewing this! What do you think leaf springs do? For the most part go straight up and down! Set the drag link level at ride height and you are good to go, my bro's rig is triangulated front four link with a steering box, NO bump steer. How much you really think your suspension travels in normal everyday driving, etc?

It doesnt require hydro, just learn how to set things up right.

And it doesn't always require more lift to clear. If you want it that bad you make other things clear the suspension, not have the suspension clear the other parts. Choose your priorities and stick to doing them right.



sure that sounds great,. good luck getting the drag link parallel on a jeep with the said suspension setup,. stock motor/giant oil pan etc... i'm running 5" coils on my XJ based buggy. dana 60 front with highsteer arm and the drag link is still just a slight bit more than parallel. the lowest TJ i've ever seen with triangulated front uppers had 5.5 or 6" coils i believe and all the XJ's i've seen setup like that had at least 8". i guess you could have a homemade giant pitman arm or something

That's funny built three one tonned front suspensions with level drag links (all are either running stock waggy pitman arms or stock YJ pitman arms and high steer).

Actually to tell you the truth my drag link and my bro's goes up hill from the pitman arm slightly.

Mine is a leaf sprung YJ soon to be four linked front staying the same height, if not lower.

Bro's is the black YJ (build called Black Betty here in hardcore)

Other level drag link YJ we just built a 4 link for was on Grendel's Junk Yard Dog in the Hardcore section.

It's really not hard to do, get the right steering arms and pitman for the ride height you want and make everything else fit.

sure that sounds great,. good luck getting the drag link parallel on a jeep with the said suspension setup,. stock motor/giant oil pan etc... i'm running 5" coils on my XJ based buggy. dana 60 front with highsteer arm and the drag link is still just a slight bit more than parallel. the lowest TJ i've ever seen with triangulated front uppers had 5.5 or 6" coils i believe and all the XJ's i've seen setup like that had at least 8". i guess you could have a homemade giant pitman arm or something

And oh yeah, my bro's tie rod is in rear, so the upper links are abnormally high but it still fit with a Jeep I-6 in there. It takes time, patience, planning AHEAD, and executing it the way it needs to be, don't short cut. If something's in the way of the suspension parts, the parts in the way have to be moved, there's always a way if there's the will.

My bro's YJ sits ride ride with the axle only about 2-3" of lift in reference to the frame over stock.

Don't get me wrong, I would definitely recommend a trackbar/panhard, but people saying a triangulated 4 links have bump steer are misinformed. I just don't want people thinking they "have to" run full hydro with double triangulated 4 links to avoid bump steer.

-Dave

It wouldn't be that hard if you are running a high steer arm and crossover. If I added a VERY slight drop pitman arm, mine would be perfectly level.

http://i135.photobucket.com/albums/q136/alligater_photos/DSCN7252.jpg