fuck!!

http://www.evil-black-rifles.com/fuck.jpg

Post sample meltdown slut!

What happend?

Time to reblue that area, maybe rebuild it with some JB weld and slap whatever Magpul grip comes with the trigger guard built in. That sucks Pete.

What happend?

A hammer and the tensile strength of aluminum having a disagreement. :flipoff2:

Phew - was hoping to NOT see a pic of a FAL in here :D

Time to get a smaller hammer and a new reciever

Just color it in with a Sharpie, It'll be fine.:D

SRP having a scratch and dent sale? :crossingfingers:

What happend?

he broke off one ear trying to install the trigger guard with a 8lb hammer:flipoff2:

Shipping to 27612? :D




JK, that sucks.

Shipping to 27612? :D




JK, that sucks.

Shipping to 20164

and I'm not kidding.

See Pete this is why LT is the bestest(see fockers thread). You should call mark larue and tell him to make receivers:shaking::shaking::shaking::laughing:

I did not notice, but the trigger guard hole was deformed.
I did not notice, but becuase the grip was installed the grip was on the bench block, not the receiver itself.

8oz hammer not 8lb.
Not much force required.

I was going to just find someone near by with a tig and take it over to them.
CMMG has upped their lower cost. With shipping this would be 100

Vermin, the FALs are contributing to the issue. Can not get either of the ones I am working on to run. Suggestions from the folks at falfiles haven't helped yet.

"Keep stepping up drill bit sizes and enlarging the gas port" kinda sucks when the closest range is 45 minutes away :D

Pete

Vermin, the FALs are contributing to the issue. Can not get either of the ones I am working on to run. Suggestions from the folks at falfiles haven't helped yet.

"Keep stepping up drill bit sizes and enlarging the gas port" kinda sucks when the closest range is 45 minutes away :D

Pete

Send to me. I go by 3 ranges to and from work. :flipoff2:

That sucks...I shoot in my backyard :flipoff2:

I was going to just find someone near by with a tig and take it over to them.
CMMG has upped their lower cost. With shipping this would be 100

Pete

So does it still need to be done FFL style, cuz it is broken:D

And just to be clear its a FAL right?

Got a TIG, but I'm nowhere near "that good" with it. :(

Looks like a job for JB Weld

FAL??? Noooooo this is an AR lower. :D

This is now "my" lower so doesn't matter much. going to register it SBR.

Pete



ps. Look at the Man In Brown thread to see how my luck turned yesterday :bounce:

I'd be tempted to drill-n-tap the pistol grip tang vertically behind the trigger on this one, make a new trigger guard floorplate counterbored for a littlebitty socket cap screw, maybe putty it up with JB Weld and then paint it up, and call it good. It'd be good enough for me, anyway... not good enough for me to sell, but good enough to shoot till it falls apart.

[QUOTE=aloharover;8071321]"Keep stepping up drill bit sizes and enlarging the gas port" kinda sucks when the closest range is 45 minutes away [QUOTE]

So when are you guys moving???

;)

the MAID grip with trigger guard front would be perfect now.

Just stack up a bunch of phone books in the garage for test firing - the neighbors won't mind much :flipoff2:

FAL??? Noooooo this is an AR lower. :D

This is now "my" lower so doesn't matter much. going to register it SBR.

Pete



ps. Look at the Man In Brown thread to see how my luck turned yesterday :bounce:


I thought it was an AR but there were references to FALs so yeah, either way. Lemme look at my cash flow and I'll get back to you about that lower

I'd be tempted to drill-n-tap the pistol grip tang vertically behind the trigger on this one, make a new trigger guard floorplate counterbored for a littlebitty socket cap screw, maybe putty it up with JB Weld and then paint it up, and call it good. It'd be good enough for me, anyway... not good enough for me to sell, but good enough to shoot till it falls apart.

We think alike - that's the direction I was gonna suggest. Maybe even go ahead and cut the other side to match, so when you machine the new piece, make it fit the taper for stability:

\__/
\__/

like so.

[QUOTE=aloharover;8071321]"Keep stepping up drill bit sizes and enlarging the gas port" kinda sucks when the closest range is 45 minutes away [QUOTE]

So when are you guys moving???

;)

:lmao:

I am tempted.
My new work location is 25 miles east. basically I work in kansas now :D
But everyday on the commute I look at these parcels for sale and think hmm I could put a range there.

Just stack up a bunch of phone books in the garage for test firing - the neighbors won't mind much :flipoff2:

Well the ARs its not an issue. I am saving up for a 308 can ATM ;)


Seriously this receiver cost 100. I know its broke, but if someone really wants it they can have it.
otherwise I will just keep it and do a tig repair and then slap a MIAD on it.

I am saving up for a 308 can ATM ;)


1) You don't ever go ATM.
2) When you get it, can I borrow it :D

Seriously this receiver cost 100. I know its broke, but if someone really wants it they can have it.
otherwise I will just keep it and do a tig repair and then slap a MIAD on it.

When you say "HAVE"......:flipoff2:

1) You don't ever go ATM.

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Paging Heef and Abig84...

[QUOTE=Keith Armstrong;8071544][QUOTE=aloharover;8071321]"Keep stepping up drill bit sizes and enlarging the gas port" kinda sucks when the closest range is 45 minutes away

:lmao:

I am tempted.
My new work location is 25 miles east. basically I work in kansas now :D
But everyday on the commute I look at these parcels for sale and think hmm I could put a range there.



Well the ARs its not an issue. I am saving up for a 308 can ATM ;)


Seriously this receiver cost 100. I know its broke, but if someone really wants it they can have it.
otherwise I will just keep it and do a tig repair and then slap a MIAD on it.
throw it in the envelope of small parts for me. And you can ship it to the FFL you sent my 10/22.


Or I'm more likely than not going to be in Springs this summer. I'll pick it up.

Seriously this receiver cost 100. I know its broke, but if someone really wants it they can have it.
otherwise I will just keep it and do a tig repair and then slap a MIAD on it.

If you're willing to accept "not that good", I'm willing to try and TIG it for free just for the experience of seeing what results I can get on it. Tradeoff is, you'd probably burn $30 in gas coming up here to see me. If you have somebody more-local that can for-sure do it "that good", even if they'll charge you a few bucks to do it, it's probably a better deal, but I figured I'd offer.

If you're willing to accept "not that good", I'm willing to try and TIG it for free just for the experience of seeing what results I can get on it. Tradeoff is, you'd probably burn $30 in gas coming up here to see me. If you have somebody more-local that can for-sure do it "that good", even if they'll charge you a few bucks to do it, it's probably a better deal, but I figured I'd offer.

After I transfer it to myself I can give it to Craig when I see him and he can swing by.

Though the custom socket head retained trigger guard has me thinking.
That or remove the other ear and just use the miad and call it good.
Little work with the Dremal and I bet I can sell it as a tacticool go fast mod. :laughing:

what kinda price you talking after you 'play' with your tig on it?

After I transfer it to myself I can give it to Craig when I see him and he can swing by.

Though the custom socket head retained trigger guard has me thinking.
That or remove the other ear and just use the miad and call it good.
Little work with the Dremal and I bet I can sell it as a tacticool go fast mod. :laughing:

A little more work, and we could probably make a billet chromoly high strength trigger guard plate so that when the treesmiting guys miss the tree with their Magpul hatchet, they don't bust their trigger guard... :lmao:

Honestly, if I were going to do a socket-head-retained trigger guard, I agree: I'd take off the other ear, if for no other reason than just to make it match.

OMG

I just realised that I need to make the new trigger guard from a piec eof your rail.

I mean what would be more tacticool. :laughing:

I forsee a "tactifool" PBB build in the future... five or six optics, railmounted everything, F staked carrier key (who remembers that one?), Magpul hatchet, etc.... would that be considered "trying to start a board war" by the powers that be? :laughing:

(who remembers that one?)

:laughing: Only every time I clean my AR.

I forsee a "tactifool" PBB build in the future... five or six optics, railmounted everything, F staked carrier key (who remembers that one?), Magpul hatchet, etc.... would that be considered "trying to start a board war" by the powers that be? :laughing:

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Don't forget the mini Aimpoint mounted to the trigger guard, so when you're pinned down by fire behind a baby stroller in the mall, you can still take that shot to save God's life.

:laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing::laughing: :laughing::laughing::laughing:

Don't forget the mini Aimpoint mounted to the trigger guard, so when you're pinned down by fire behind a baby stroller in the mall, you can still take that shot to save God's life.

JB weld some rail to the right side of the magwell. :laughing:

JB weld some rail to the right side of the magwell. :laughing:

JB Weld isn't HSLD enough. I'm going to get LaRue to machine a lower for me with all of the mounts built in, including a 'Dillo leg stabber/bottle opener on the bottom of the Magpul grip. It will only cost $3200 and will come with a black LaRue Tactical hat that makes you look like a total fucking faggot. :laughing:

JB Weld isn't HSLD enough. I'm going to get LaRue to machine a lower for me with all of the mounts built in, including a 'Dillo leg stabber/bottle opener on the bottom of the Magpul grip. It will only cost $3200 and will come with a black LaRue Tactical hat that makes you look like a total fucking faggot. :laughing:

No, fawk that. If you really, and I mean REALLY want to piss off arfcommer staph and get a laugh out of the common folk it needs to be from "TheRedHorseman Tactical, with a magic markered hat and bottle opener.

Scott...do you think you could mill us up a bottle opener that would attach to picatinny rail?

Scott...do you think you could mill us up a bottle opener that would attach to picatinny rail?

I've never actually made anything that goes on picatinny rail, only the rail itself. The cutter I use for the rail is probably too big to make the mating pieces, but I don't really know. I might just have to try it.

Speaking of rail mounting accessories... can you legally mount a handgun to a rifle without a tax stamp, or does the handgun then become an SBR by virtue of it having a stock?

Oooh... I just realized... an application for a John-Holmes-slide 1911... :eek: :laughing:

I hope that pic wasn't taken Tuesday. ;):D

Super Glue is your friend.

Speaking of rail mounting accessories... can you legally mount a handgun to a rifle without a tax stamp, or does the handgun then become an SBR by virtue of it having a stock?

It becomes an SBR, just as the little shorty underslung shotguns that would ordinarily be an AOW are registered as SBSs.

It becomes an SBR, just as the little shorty underslung shotguns that would ordinarily be an AOW are registered as SBSs.

Tax stamp applies to shoulder-fired weapons with shorter than 16" rifled barrels or shorter than 18" smooth barrels?

16" barrel 1911 + 20" barrel AR10 = Over there, on the range... it's a vertical foregrip, it's a railmounted accessory, it's a backup gun, it's... WTF is it??? Both muzzles would end up about the same distance from the butt (which is kind of a ways out) but it'd be legal (I think). :rasta:

I'm sure that finding a 16" barrel that would actually fit in a 1911 would be a challenge, but it's either ponder this in here or hit the Friday Night Loser's Club over in ChitChat. I have no life. :(

Scott...do you think you could mill us up a bottle opener that would attach to picatinny rail?

I would SO buy one. :laughing:

I would SO buy one. :laughing:

Hell yeah, me too. :smokin: Better than a Larue kool-aid opener anyway. :D

I am going to have to look through my parts and see what I can come up with.

I like the rail mount hatchet idea. As an alternative to a bayonet. Hmm different heads, saw, hatchet, machette, etc.

If you're willing to accept "not that good", I'm willing to try and TIG it for free just for the experience of seeing what results I can get on it. Tradeoff is, you'd probably burn $30 in gas coming up here to see me. If you have somebody more-local that can for-sure do it "that good", even if they'll charge you a few bucks to do it, it's probably a better deal, but I figured I'd offer.

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but the original pic had me scratching my head. Forged receivers are 7075 - they're unrepairable by welding. 6061 milled is weldable, but then I looked at the picture again and said "that's gotta be a cast receiver because forged wouldn't snap off in a clean break like that".

I do AL TIG castings ocassionally, but have never worked with a cast AR type receiver, so I needed to do some homework to figure out what they were cast from. As far as I can tell from reading a few mfg's sites the majority seem to be cast from from 356/A356.

I know from experience small AL castings need a lot of prep and forethought to successfully weld. It's a very fine line between too cold and "melted silver glob" . There isn't as much mass to absorb excess heat like on a large casting so you have to go easy and take it slow. If the entire casting is expanded there's less stress in the HAZ, so less hot cracks and you can work at a lower amperage. On little castings, an old toaster oven is perfect for preheat. Regular steel bar will work as a backer - it wont stick and will support the buildup puddle while it's molten.

If you want a practice piece, find an/old broken transmission bellhousing - They're almost all 356 alloy. Cut out a 1/2" wide strip of material on the bandsaw. Put it in a vise and snap it. That will give you an almost identical material, mode of failure, & and part thickness. Always experiment with prep and settings on something "disposable" if you can.

If a new lower is only $100, a broken lower is really only worth something as a practice piece anyway. But... knowing it is indeed possible to weld one could prove profitable if somebody ever comes to you with an unusual request. If I were a gun dealer, I'd keep it around as a counter souvenir to help explain to customers why forged receivers cost more. - that broken part could help make a sale for better quality parts.

Hope something in there's helpful (if that wasn't a cast lower I'm going to feel like a dumbass for going through the effort of researching cast receivers)

good luck.
- BD

I do not know how to tell cast from forged alum. Anyone else?
Be very interested in finding out a way to determine if these "forged" lowers are indeed cast.

Pete

it's all in the "grain" of the metal

random = cast
linear = forged

will see if i can get a better photo

post a better pic of the break, should beable to tell,