I can use the 220 Mig welder to weld knuckes to an axel tube with a few pases and be fine rite? or is this a job for a pro

That's what a pro used on mine. He said that the trick is to use a high nickel content wire and all is good. Woulda done it myself, but my welder doesn't get hot enough!

would like to hear more on this

I would think that the weld has to only fight against rotational forces on the knuckle. I would also assume that the strength of a given weld around a full circumference like that is really really strong but I am unsure of the numbers

anyone shed some real world experience / numbers on thsi fact

arndog

after i ground the weld and rotated the knuckles on my 60 i gave it 2 passes with my millermatic 250. i have more bead material now than before grinding out the old bead. i say go for it.

Mine were MIG'ed.

http://home.off-road.com/~bibelheimer/images/knucleperch.jpg

We preheated the knuckle & tube a bit w/ the torch first too.

I dont think the high-nickle content is necessary on the knuckles since I believe they are forged, not cast. We used regular wire.

The knuckles are cast not forged. They are cast steel though, and not cast iron so welding them isn't as tricky as some make them out to be.

one pass with that is plenty! just get it!

Looks like the factory migs them... bet they use a gas sheild AND flux core wire. I used to weld 1" and larger plate in a backhoe manufacturing plant and my absolute favorite piece to weld was the pivot yoke. Burned that thing with a 400 AMP Mig using gas and flux core. Man those welds were beautiful. penetration? No problem :flipoff2:

Anyway, I bet the axle tube rotates in a jig and it takes about 3 seconds to weld each tube...

For you welders: I used a #15 lens and alumiunim foil sheilded glove protectors over my regular gloves. The whole shop lit up when I hit the trigger. yes!

if you got the right tools that the "pro" shop does, hell...go for it,
:D

seems to me that the issue isn't weld strength, but alignment. how are you guys making a proper jig for castor angles and such? im just curious.

Originally posted by mrnatural
seems to me that the issue isn't weld strength, but alignment. how are you guys making a proper jig for castor angles and such? im just curious.

I have been using a "fixture rod" and a smart level, with the smart level being accurate to .1 degree, See the attached pathetic picture ( I really need to buy a digi camera, but I am much to cheap for that !)