hey guys, i had a problem a little while ago with my 30c (they vacum disconnect model) not engaging. turned out to be the stupid little shift fork. if i put a one piece in there, would it interfere with anything? would i have to remove the vacum motor housing and junk and what about the shift sensor on top of the tcase with vacum lines running into it? thanks, any help appreciated

i've never done it but you can gut it and put in TJ shafts. this way you can get the stronger 297 u-joints. not sure if your YJ hubs will work though. then both axles will be turning all the time. did you do a search on this?

tj, xj or 95 or newer w/ ABS shafts have the 297x uj's, i have xj shafts no disco. works great I have a block off plate where the disco was. you need to change the seal on the pass side too.

Originally posted by kidwired
tj, xj or 95 or newer w/ ABS shafts have the 297x uj's, i have xj shafts no disco. works great I have a block off plate where the disco was. you need to change the seal on the pass side too.

ok but don't the YJ 94 and 95 have the vacuum dis-connect? so if he got those he would still have the dis-co right?

Originally posted by sas87yj


ok but don't the YJ 94 and 95 have the vacuum dis-connect? so if he got those he would still have the dis-co right?

Right, thats what I run in my '84 hi pinion XJ housing.

And yes there is a good chance of having to do some hub swapping in this process. You can also just run a '95 YJ inner and TJ outer with the modern hub and rotor.

Originally posted by kidwired
tj, xj or 95 or newer w/ ABS shafts have the 297x uj's, i have xj shafts no disco. works great I have a block off plate where the disco was. you need to change the seal on the pass side too.

what seal did you use, i have heard that you should use a driver side seal but a buddy of mine tryed it and it was still too lose, i plan on doing the swap soon, and back to the original newbie..........do a search

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK


Right, thats what I run in my '84 hi pinion XJ housing.

And yes there is a good chance of having to do some hub swapping in this process. You can also just run a '95 YJ inner and TJ outer with the modern hub and rotor.


so if i swap the axles from a 94-95YJ/297's into my 87YJ/260's do you think my hubs will coincide?

thanks freak

You can permently lock the fork over too. Unless your fork is busted? I got a write up on my website about what I did. www.geocities.com/xj_59101/ It's under XJ Tech

Originally posted by sas87yj



so if i swap the axles from a 94-95YJ/297's into my 87YJ/260's do you think my hubs will coincide?

thanks freak

What you really want to do, and this is especially true if you do go ahead with that Detroit. Go out to the junkyard and get some TJ, later XJ or ZJ axle shafts with the hub attached and the rotors that were there.

Get the passenger's side inner axle seal and install it on the driver's side. Then oull all of your Disco stuff off and build a blockoff plate for the hole. That should bolt right up into your housing and make that Detroit worth something.

Else do the same thing but sell the passenger's side inner axle shaft to someone who needs it. Find a 1995 1/2 YJ passenger's side inner shaft (good fucking luck, I had to wind up buying one new part# 755881x which that number is more then what you need) now use the TJ stuff complete on the driver's side. Shaft, hub/bearing assembly, rotor then your stock caliper, that side is done. On the driver's side use the YJ 297x inner shaft and that TJ outer stuff you got at the junkyard. On that side you have the stock intermediate shaft, the 297x YJ inner shaft, the TJ outer stub, TJ hub/bearing, TJ rotor and your stock caliper.

You can insert late XJ and ZJ anywhere I have TJ in there, they work too. The later hub/bearing is a little stouter so IMO it's worth having.

Originally posted by JEEP_TJ_FREAK


What you really want to do, and this is especially true if you do go ahead with that Detroit. Go out to the junkyard and get some TJ, later XJ or ZJ axle shafts with the hub attached and the rotors that were there.

Get the passenger's side inner axle seal and install it on the driver's side. Then oull all of your Disco stuff off and build a blockoff plate for the hole. That should bolt right up into your housing and make that Detroit worth something.

Else do the same thing but sell the passenger's side inner axle shaft to someone who needs it. Find a 1995 1/2 YJ passenger's side inner shaft (good fucking luck, I had to wind up buying one new part# 755881x which that number is more then what you need) now use the TJ stuff complete on the driver's side. Shaft, hub/bearing assembly, rotor then your stock caliper, that side is done. On the driver's side use the YJ 297x inner shaft and that TJ outer stuff you got at the junkyard. On that side you have the stock intermediate shaft, the 297x YJ inner shaft, the TJ outer stub, TJ hub/bearing, TJ rotor and your stock caliper.

You can insert late XJ and ZJ anywhere I have TJ in there, they work too. The later hub/bearing is a little stouter so IMO it's worth having.

ok, but all i am really trying to accomplish right now is gain the 297's. i don't see why i need to replace my hubs/rotors if i don't have to. yes i am still putting in the detroit and keeping the vacuum dis-co. i am trying to figure out if the axles/297's from the 94-95YJ will slip right in to my hubs.

oh and about the detroit- the D30 carrier break is 3.73. i have 3.55's now and going to 4.56's so the carrier has to be replaced anyway. the detroit will be there for later mods like hubs/alloy shafts and CTM joints when available.

thanks freak

Originally posted by sas87yj


ok, but all i am really trying to accomplish right now is gain the 297's. i don't see why i need to replace my hubs/rotors if i don't have to. yes i am still putting in the detroit and keeping the vacuum dis-co. i am trying to figure out if the axles/297's from the 94-95YJ will slip right in to my hubs.

oh and about the detroit- the D30 carrier break is 3.73. i have 3.55's now and going to 4.56's so the carrier has to be replaced anyway. the detroit will be there for later mods like hubs/alloy shafts and CTM joints when available.

thanks freak

Its a Gawd damned D30!!!!:mad3: Fawkin hubs, alloy shafts, Detroits:mad3: You're wasting your money.

Originally posted by Robert


Its a Gawd damned D30!!!!:mad3: Fawkin hubs, alloy shafts, Detroits:mad3: You're wasting your money.

It's "bolt on" or "no mod", GET IT:flipoff2:

Originally posted by bigdude


It's "bolt on" or "no mod", GET IT:flipoff2:

What is this "bolt on" you speak of????? :D

Originally posted by bigdude


It's "bolt on" or "no mod", GET IT:flipoff2:


Yes, please do explain:rolleyes: :rolleyes:

I am confused:rasta:

What is "bolt on":question:

Isn't that sumthing they discuss over a JU:question:

Oh yeah, thats right, maybe you should go tell them ALL about you bolt ons:rolleyes:

I purchased the one-pice shaft form drive train direct, the price of a new shift motor, and added strength of the 297x. Will do till the beast is found....

Weld your carrier, get a posi lock shift motor, if your 260 joints break carry spare shafts, or build some 297x shafts. This will save you from wasting cash on a detroit in a d30 and is as cool as an OX.....

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=65317

you can by direct replacement 297 axle assy's from 4wdhardware.com for 87-95 YJ's for about $130 a side.

Yes, the hubs will work with TJ or XJ shafts.

I'm not sure ZJ shafts would work for you because they dont use u-joints, instead they have CV joints since they are fulltime 4wd (usually) maybe they will and WJ's have the cvjoints, not sure.

I say, if you have 33's, even with a locker you should be safe with the 260's as long as you respect you jeep. with 35's and a locker I wouldnt even bother with the 297 assys. Instead save your money for some aloy's and ctm's or ox joints. Or you could just take it easy on the rocks and try to keep your wheels straight:flipoff2:

Actually very few ZJ's were full time. Mostly from '99 on but most of the '95-'98 used the SelecTrac part-time using the NP242.