Will this work? I want to mount Swayaway coilovers in the same location of the original spring on the XJ. I was thinking of cutting off the bump stop and using two pieces of plate to sandwich it together with a bolt as well as welding it to the unibody. I also want to install a brace between the two inner fenders to keep them from collapsing in on each other. here is a cheesy ass diagram!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/coilmount.jpg
In all seriousness would this be functional? I plan to make the plates different sizes so it wont tear out of the mount. I am also going to gussett the lower plate to the framerail with two plates. OK now you can let me have it!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil002.jpg

any good reason why you would want to go through all that work? If you're gonna fab, fab a beefy ass mount that you don't have to question.

Or

Go for it and come back to tell us all how it went

Depends on what you're looking for. You can make the fender strong enough to do what you want and that's not an issue. The problem I would see is that you'd be limited to about a 10" coilover, but if droop isn't going to matter then go for it. I'd still want to put a cross brace in though, but that's just me.

I am using a 10" CO. I got a good deal on them and they will work for now. I plan to flip them to the rear next winter and put 12" up front. the ride height is a little low, but it was intended for 12" CO's but you can only do what you can afford. I am putting in a cross brace before it will be driven. thanks,I appreciate the input. :)

I have an 11" travel shock in the stockish location, that is just a shock. Not sure where exactly you were planning on attaching the coilover, but right where the spring bucket is might be a little close to the axle. You could definitely brace the fender to mount where the stock shock is...

I would run the 10's in the front, and 12's in the rear anyways, I just switched to having more travel in the rear and it is so much better, plus clearance issues aren't as big a deal.

the ride height is a little low

We dont know what that could possibly mean

We dont know what that could possibly mean



I know what he means. Its really not that big of a deal, just make sure you can turn fully when you're full stuff. Bumpstop and cut and you'll be fine. A low COG is nothing to complain about.

Make sure you weld the plates though. I could see it not going too well if you just bolt them.

Exactly, I need to get some bumpstops for the shocks I expect about 4" up travel and 6" down, now I am trying to figure what to use for a limiting strap on each side of the axle. I was thinking of using some 5/16 aircraft cable. Weld a loop on the axle tube and run cable through it up to the gussett on the shock tower.

Here is how I braced the shock tower. I still have to make a gussett for the front of the mount and a tube cross brace over the engine, I think it will work well:
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil004.jpg
The angle of the shock is at full droop.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil005.jpg
This is close to ride height
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil006.jpg
At ride height the shock is centered in the mounting tabs top and bottom

use real limit straps not cable

use real limit straps not cable

x2

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671462

x2

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=671462

Those might work, I need to measure the shock at full extension. I thik its only 29" eye to eye. Here it is on its own weight. Still need to work out the steering. NO I'M NOT using that setup. Its temporary!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil011.jpg

thats a big bitch! You really want it riding that high?

The mount itself doesn't look bad...

...but I would not call that ride height "a little low". :laughing:

http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil011.jpg

What size tires are those? Wheels? I think you could run those adjusters down a little bit, but that's just me. Looks like it'll be nice.

When I stated a "little low" everything was on jack stands. I was obviously mistaken. First time doing this will teach you alot. It actually turned out higher than I anticipated. The shock is extended about 6" I will lower the adjusters 2" and take out the 2" rear shackles. the tires are 37". I think when I get it loaded for a trip it will sit a little lower yet. Still getting winch bumper, and exo cage. Plus my camera angle sucks!

The 37x12.50x17? Damn I want a set SO FUCKIN BAD! Envy is dripping here.

I got it 2" lower now sits real nice and no tire rub. I need to shorten the track bar an inch. it threw the axle off center when I got the ride height set where I wanted it. I did the steering from a piece of 1 1/2" solid stock drilled and tapped for the 3/4 heims and the drag link out of 1 1/4". Any ideas how to build a track bar that doesn't move the axle so far side to side? I did some searching and didn't really find any relevant info.

Any ideas how to build a track bar that doesn't move the axle so far side to side? I did some searching and didn't really find any relevant info.

Make it as long as possible. But then if you make it too long, it'll screw with your steering....or rather, if you make it longer than your drag link it will mess with your steering.

Got any side pictures as it sits?

Here's one, That is 4" up and 6" down travel
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/d60coil013.jpg

what are the axles out of?

Chevy 14B and 93 Ford D60 5.38's, welded rear, lockrite up front.

Got the axle done just need to get hubs and a u-joint. I flexed it out on our car hauler today and am happy with the results. I need longer brake lines and limiting straps are on order. I still have to put in the revolver shackles in the rear so it can get full flex out of the rear. Tha Alcans work nice though.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/0413081829a.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/0413081833.jpg
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/0413081829.jpg

lookin good! id stay away from the revolover shackles though all there gonna do is unload when yer climbing or flexing and on the gas

X2 on not using the revolvers. Get a good set of boomarang shackles, dont use the revolvers. They unload at all the wrong times usually causing axle wrap and a good way to snap a rear driveshaft.

They aren't actually Revolvers, they are the old RK style. I see where you are coming from though, that does make sense. Maybe I should just sell them!

I did not use the revolver style shackles, too many people have had bad experiences with them. I did get the steering done and am waiting on the assist ram from PSC. I have driven it around town to get the suspension to settle out and make necessary adjustments. I have to raise the left hand coilover because the body sags a little. Ialso got the bumper cut out for the winch and that should be done tomorrow. lots of little odds and ends to do to be ready to wheel this summer.here is a couple pics, more to come.
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/winchinstall001.jpg
I think this is a functional steering setup even with heims, I read billavistas article and I am sure this will work fine. It literally drives perfectly straight down the road with no wobble! I used a tape measure to align it!:eek:
Here is the winch cutout, it sucks to give up approach angle but someday it will be on 42's!
http://i59.photobucket.com/albums/g312/crzyxj/winchinstall002.jpg