I'm swaping out a 10 bolt in favor of a d60 in my '90 suburban, I am keep ing the stock push pull steering as its only got a 4in lift and is my daily driver. Will I need a new TRE for the d60 steering arm....when I looked them up online it showed the same part number for all 1/2 3/4 and 1 ton trucks at the pitman arm and the steering arm? I figured the 1/2 and 3/4 would be the same, but figured the 1 ton would be larger:confused:

Also, will the driveshaft length be ok when doing the swap, I've got the stock yoke on the d60 and believe it will bolt up other than that, just not sure of the length difference on the 10bolt vs. the d60?

And yes, I did search, but came back with only cross over type swap info.

Thanks,
Justin Ray

Tie rod will bolt right up. You will need a shorter drive shaft or more lift. You will get around 2 inches of lift in the front just from the axle swap, so if your truck is level now rear to front it won't be after the 60 swap.

Tie rod will bolt right up. You will need a shorter drive shaft or more lift. You will get around 2 inches of lift in the front just from the axle swap, so if your truck is level now rear to front it won't be after the 60 swap.

X2

Tie rod will bolt right up. You will need a shorter drive shaft or more lift. You will get around 2 inches of lift in the front just from the axle swap, so if your truck is level now rear to front it won't be after the 60 swap.

that actually sounds great. My truck has a 4 in. lift, but the front sags a little and is nose down, so the 2" will work out great....might have to shorten the shaft, but thats no biggie.

THanks,
Justin

I did the same swap and didnt have to shorten my d shaft, you might just try it especially if its a daily driver that doesnt see much flex.

The Tierod will not work the tierod for a 10 bolt is different than the tierod for a 60. However the Draglink will, which is what you are really asking about. The draglink goes from Pitman Arm to Steering arm, the Tierod goes from 1 knuckle to the other infront of the axle.

I also did this swap with a 4" lift and did nothing to the driveshaft or brake lines. It was a true bolt in mod.

Dik

Same as mine. No driveshaft mods necessary. The pinion yoke was the stock 1310 for both 10 bolt and 60. Bolts right in.

Offroaddesign has a raised Dana60 steering arm block if you need one. It's different than the old school ones in that ORD doesn't need a spacer cylinder. It's not on their website, but they could probably pm some pics if you asked. I think it's $150 with ARP studs.

Offroaddesign has a raised Dana60 steering arm block if you need one. It's different than the old school ones in that ORD doesn't need a spacer cylinder. It's not on their website, but they could probably pm some pics if you asked. I think it's $150 with ARP studs.

I *think* I'll be alright with the factory steering arm, as currently with the "4" springs that are on there now, my draglink is parraellel with my sprnigs, which are nearly flat, so even with the ~2" or so I'm supposed to get from the axle I think I'll be alright, may have to go to raised steering arm, but if I did that I'd rather just put a 2wd box on and go crossover.

I guess its all kind of overkill for my daily driver anyway but:grinpimp:

I'll post up some pics when I do the swap....

1990 v1500 suburban
350tbi
700r4
np241
d60 4.56 gears trac lock 35spline outers with warn prem lockouts (soon to be)
14bolt rear 4.56s detroit
'08 h2 wheels and tires
and barn doors:D

thanks for all the sugguestions and experience,
Justin

Dana 60 is in, took about a day cause I tore the 60 down and repacked the wheel bearings and put new rotors and pads on....and had an unexpected trip to get a whole new draglink cause both joints on the stocker were shot, and one of them is still stuck in the 10bolt steering arm.....I also had to get new brake lines because the locating ears on the 1/2 ton hoses wouldn't alow it to sit flush on the caliper and they were too short anway and full droop and turning, so I picked up a set of braided stainless ones for a 4in. lift and was done with it. Steering geometry is fine with the stock arm, and the driveshaft apears to be ok with the lift. It lifted the front ~2 in which worked out great.

I'll post up some pics later, now I just have to get one of my techs to allign the steeringwheel for me today at work.....it actually steers much better then before with new draglink and less wear on the tie rod. Doesn't pull in either direction and tracks straght, just want to check and make sure its in spec so I don't wear out my new tires and straghten my steering wheel.

Thanks for the info.
Justin