I have heard that anything over a 33" tire on a dana 35 rear axle is suicide. I know it would be better to find a dana 44 for it but for now the 35 will have to do. I also bought an aussie locker too. Has anyone else heard this? So how big of a tire is to big?

from what i have heard any tire over stock is bad.

look into the wreckers for a older full size waggy some have a D44 rear, most have a heaver ver of the amc 20 good ring gear bad assambly, but can be fixed with a truss. and about your wms to wms.:smokin:

33's and a locker is pushing it. Definetly dont run 35's.

So whats the weak link? The axles themselves or the clip:question:

Lock the front too...it'll let you creep through spots where you'd have to ram it through with open diffs.
If you don't want to have to worry everytime you go offroad just stick to 31 inch tires.That'll make all sorts of trails fun that you'd just drive over without thought on bigger tires.

Keep it open or prepare to break stuff. I have seen them break with 31's open (spit spider gears and cracked carrier) but that probably isn't that common. If you don't put a locker in it it can survive, but as soon as you do stuff is gonna break.

There is only one thing I stock parts for and a dana 35 is it. I see more broken 35's than bent Jeep tie rods and they are pretty sorry too.

The Dana 35 has more issues than simply weak axle shafts. I think in a lot of cases it is the weight of the vehicle rather than the tire size that does them in. They get tweaked and then it's down hill from there.

It's just an all around Craptastic Axle.

That 250 bucks you spent on the Aussie Locker would have been better spent on a Ford 8.8. Aussie lockers are generally decent, but not in a 35.
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So whats the weak link? The axles themselves or the clip:question:

The c clip is usually never the original problem. The axle shafts are weak and once they break, there is nothing holding the axle shaft in as the c clip normally what hold the axle shaft in place. However the c clips are on the pumpkin end of the axle shaft and the axle usually breaks between the c clip and the tire. The D35 has lots of other weak links, axle tubes, spider gears, brackets, are all weak links.

A D35 with stock axles should not be used with tires larger than 33's.

That said. If you replace the carrier with a full case locker and 30 pline shafts. it will stand up to a beating on 35's and some say 36's

different tires = different wieghts

different rims = different wieghts

ive seen 35's break with 30's ive seen them hold 33's fine and i even know one person personally that has 35's no problems but he is easy on it

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll put it together because I already spent the money (unless aussie will let me return the locker), but later ugrade axles as soon as I get the money.:)

There is absolutely NOTHING good about the Dana 35....If you keep it, you will and should worry about it on EVERY wheeling trip. So to answer your original question....30s.

Thanks for all the replies. I think I'll put it together because I already spent the money (unless aussie will let me return the locker), but later ugrade axles as soon as I get the money.:)

seriously, carry a spare shaft and the knowledge and tools to change it. The stock shafts are just over 1 inch in diameter. They will break. Remember you'll need to take the diff and locker apart to change the shaft.

I'm gonna bet only a handful of people in here have even seen a broken 35. The rest are just rattling off the typical parrot response. Honestly, a Dana 35 locked, can and will hold up to 35s providing yoiu don't have a 4:1 kit or high horsepower motors, and you drive very carefully on it. My old locked Dana 35 had 35s and is still under a buddies jeep with 35s on it. Driving style has more to do with it then anything. If you drive like Chris Durham, yeah its gonna break. Soon as i went 4:1 however and T-18, i recognized the borrowed time the axle was on and dropped my D35. Im not saying its a good axle, im just saying it works for the mean time while you save for upgrades. 33's with mild wheeling would be a safer bet, never bounce, bind or do burnouts with a D35 and it should keep you wheeling until its upgrade time.

I see two or three break a week, say an average week of 100 rigs, with maybe 10% running a 35. Thats not good odds In my opinion.

As already said, its not just the shafts, the pinion, case (especailly with a lunchbox locker), the yoke, spiders, and crosspin all take a dump pretty often. I'm not saying don't wheel it, just that locking it you are on borrowed time. Luckily you'll have a clue how to change a shaft as long as you do the Aussie install yourself. That will put you ahead of the dana 35 curve.

Buy some spare shafts, a yoke, and spider gears, I'd say those three things are what break the most and having spares will get you home.

So whats the weak link? The axles themselves or the clip:question:

90% of the time - THE DRIVER.

Sure, you reach a point where you are wheeling harder than the equipment can take. But most of the time it's the driver behind the wheel that drives like ass that causes them to break.

I would have no problems putting 33's on a D35, 35's might be pushing it but I've seen a 35 with a truss survive a good bit of abuse while running 35's and detriot(?).

The weakest like is without a doubt the housing, but that can be trusted to mitigate the issue.

Ive posted this before, But my DD has 35" tires with the OX and superior shafts. I take it out and lightly wheel it.
The only Failure Ive had is like stated above when driveing like an ass. sidesteped the clutch with the motor pegged (on asphalt) and broke it. I took 3 ring gear teeth off. no shaft or locker failure.

Other than that, the housing is starting to sag preety bad. its slowly starting to look like a "U"

Run it. just carry some spare shafts if your going to wheel it. Swap it out down the road.

Edit: oh yeah it has an ax-15 & 4 speed t-case in front of it.

I'm gonna bet only a handful of people in here have even seen a broken 35.

Seen a few, although I always broke my locked-30 before my open-35 broke... At least I could still drive home :laughing:


I wouldn't personally run anything bigger than 31s on a Dana 35, but I HATE being towed off the trail *shrug*

A while ago when I used to run the turdy 5, I had the 30 spline superior kit with the full detroit locker. running 4.56, 4:1 tcase, rear tom woods cv shaft, stock 4.0 motor, ax-15 trans, 36 tsl sx 's.

I ended up breaking the LOCKER!! I thought is was a shaft, but the shafts survived!! I believe it was the gradual bending of the housing from the abuse causing the internal locker to bind and eventually break. Never did get to trussing the rear housing. When I saw that after I removed the diff cover, I said f-that. I cleaned everything back up, reinstalled the broken shit just so I could move it in the backyard(in front wheel drive) into long term storage until I have full replacement axles.

Now I'm running 3/4 ton running gear from a 1983 jeep J-20 truck

I ran 33's with a Detroit and a heavy foot behind a 4.0 for years and never broke it. Wheeled a whole lot of blacks and some reds.

This is reminding me, while I have my wifes 35 out of the Jeep...

I should probably weld up a truss on the thing.

I broke mine with 225/75R15s on the street. Chirped the hell outta second gear though.

My point was alot of people bash the 35 but have no reason why they bash it other then somebody else did and they hopped on the band wagon. Theres no denying it though, the D35 is a piece of shit. I was just stating that it can work until you get the ching for an upgrade. Id rather baby a D35 on 33s then ride bitch and hold your buddies beer in a rig running 40s....better to just be out there wheelin something rather then nothing if you ask me.

I broke my Dana 35 with 32's and a tru-track and I do drive carefully. I broke climbing a steep wet sandy hill (lot of traction). The rig took one hop and snaped the axle before I could get off the gas. The axle shaft broke right at the splines. My Dana 30 has held up with 35's and an ARB on some hardcore runs including several trips to Moab. (My rear is now a ford 9")

If you are going to run the 35 carry a spare axle and the tools to change it. You may also want to carry a steel rod to drive the broken axle out as it can get stuck at the break. It was a MAJOR pain getting my rig out when I broke. I had to get tugged up a steep hill with the stupid axle wanting to come out even strapped in. Once off the trail I was able to get a trailer to get it home.

I'm gonna bet only a handful of people in here have even seen a broken 35. The rest are just rattling off the typical parrot response.

Call me lucky then. I've seen 4 broken axles on 4 separate rigs on trail rides.
Last month we had one in the shop for a re-gear. Found a cracked gear in his Detroit - his 2nd Detroit failure. Hmmm, started wondering why. Oh look, the housings bent. (2 points for ATBLIS).
All rigs on 33-34s, nobody was being an idiot.

Lock the front, leave the rear open. Take some of the stress off the rear having to do so much work. I ran my D35 with 33s for about 5 months, and it did just fine. I was easy on it, but when I had 30s, I was hard on it, and it held up great. I always carried spare shafts though. I've had people break on the same trails with me that had D35s. I also think it has more to do with the driver. Know your limitations.

when I first bought my jeep I did alot of burn outs and blew the carrier up. Then I upgraded to the super 35 kit 4.88 gears and a detroit locker. I was very happy with it running 35s. I beat the crap out of it by jumping it and smoking the tires on rocks. I did have the 4cyl. I agree alot depends on the driver to.

fix it and be done
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My wife broke her turdy-five taking my daughter to t-ball practice :mad3:

on a bumpy paved road , threw a 33 and the axleshaft and luckily they skidded

to a safe stop . Friends don't let friends think D35s are worth keeping long term.

8.8s are cheap as dirt if you hunt around ... and WAAYY safer for your family .

I'm gonna bet only a handful of people in here have even seen a broken 35. The rest are just rattling off the typical parrot response. Honestly, a Dana 35 locked, can and will hold up to 35s providing yoiu don't have a 4:1 kit or high horsepower motors, and you drive very carefully on it. My old locked Dana 35 had 35s and is still under a buddies jeep with 35s on it. Driving style has more to do with it then anything. If you drive like Chris Durham, yeah its gonna break. Soon as i went 4:1 however and T-18, i recognized the borrowed time the axle was on and dropped my D35. Im not saying its a good axle, im just saying it works for the mean time while you save for upgrades. 33's with mild wheeling would be a safer bet, never bounce, bind or do burnouts with a D35 and it should keep you wheeling until its upgrade time.
X2 Iran a lincoln locked 35 with 33's and wheeled it harder than I'd have liked too in more than one occasion. When I installed an 8.8 I took apart the 35 and was suprised not too find anything wrong with the shafts or splines.

My point was alot of people bash the 35 but have no reason why they bash it other then somebody else did and they hopped on the band wagon. Theres no denying it though, the D35 is a piece of shit. I was just stating that it can work until you get the ching for an upgrade. Id rather baby a D35 on 33s then ride bitch and hold your buddies beer in a rig running 40s....better to just be out there wheelin something rather then nothing if you ask me.

X2. I have seen d35's break with different tire sizes adn they are craptacular but I agree with black sheep in that a babied d35 on 33's can last while you save up for upgrades. I have a couple of friends to baby the hell out of their d35, choose their lines carefully but they've lasted. What you should keep in mind is that down the road are you going to go up in tire size, what kind of terrian are you going to run and how aggressive are you on the trails. The more you wheel, the more you will find the limitations of your gear and can then upgrade accordingly

I'm gonna bet only a handful of people in here have even seen a broken 35. The rest are just rattling off the typical parrot response. Honestly, a Dana 35 locked, can and will hold up to 35s providing yoiu don't have a 4:1 kit or high horsepower motors, and you drive very carefully on it. --snip--


I went forever and never saw a Dana 35 explode. Then it was like someone flipped a switch and they all were exploding. The D35 at it's best is a weak link that is prone to failure at any minute. If there isn't a major explosion, the wear & tear of daily driving & wheel-n soon causes an explosion. Horsepower and driving skills play only a minor part. Get a tire in a bind and something has to give and my bet is on the d35 because it has so many weak links. Yes there are people who say that I did this or that with a d35 and never had an issue. However, there are many more people who will tell you that they had issues. I personally would NEVER lock a d35. I was on a trail one time with a locked d35 that didn't last 10 minutes into the trail. However, with this said, I have found Jeepers in Florida who lock a d35 as a common thing and most do not have problems (because of the sand?) but this is not usually the situation in rest of the World.

I ran my D35c for several years on 33's/4.56/full detriot... went to 35's and it worked for about a year till the housing got tweeked (ripped the upper control arm mounts off) after that it was one failure after another. That was the point that I ditched it for a 60. I'm not a throttle wheeler so that helped a little in making the 35 stay alive, but it was always in the back of my mind that it could explode just getting the rig off the trailer. On the other hand, I just helped a co-worker put his back together (money and time were factors in NOT upgrading his) in his daily driver on 31's/LSD... he doesn't wheel it... just exploded coming home from work about a month ago... let me tell you... seeing a tire and axle rolling down the street without a jeep attached is scary, luckily all that was really fawked up was his brake backing plate, lower control arm mount, and shit all down his leg. :eek:

Don't sink a whole lotta money into that axle, might as well just burn your wallet... I know cause I wasted too much time and money trying to keep mine running, wish I'd just done the bigger axle sooner.

8.8 or waggy 44 for milder wheelin'... you can run 35's on either with little worries.

I beat my rig when it had a D35 and 33" tires.

Open diff, but never had a problem with it. I did carry spare shafts out of paranoia based on everyone saying it would blow up though. Then again, I also carried a full set of 30 shafts.

D35's do have some DD issues. One of which is spinning carrier bearings, which we discovered with my wifes when swapping gears out. That and minor pitting on the passenger axle shaft where it rides in the bearing. Bearings were "koyo" and didn't look so hot either. 140,000 miles on that jeep.

I don't buy in to the 8.8 swap - you still end up with c-clips. If I'm going to spend money swapping an axle out, ESPECIALLY dealing with a TJ, I'll go D44, D60, Waggie AMC20 before an 8.8.

Of the limited D35s that i seen break, EVERY one of them either bound a tire, were bouncing from loss of traction, or where burning out wether it was on a rock or pavement. Of coarse a D35 is gonna break if you drive it like a 60 and not a 35. It might be a shitty thing to say but i can't help but smile anymore when i see some newbie with a little lift and some bigger meets blow something up because he figured more gas and radically hammering his rig against and obstacle is somehow gonna "will" its way over it. Even more so when they start bashing their equipment instead of their driving.

--snip--
I don't buy in to the 8.8 swap - you still end up with c-clips. If I'm going to spend money swapping an axle out, ESPECIALLY dealing with a TJ, I'll go D44, D60, Waggie AMC20 before an 8.8.

The C clips are not an issue until after you break an axle shaft. The axle shafts in an 8.8 are huge and make the D35 shafts look like little toothpicks. If you could break a c clip in an 8.8, you will have bigger problems than just the c clips. :eek::eek:

Well I figure I have the locker already so I'll go easy till I can get something else. I might as well run it instead of letting it sit for 6 months till I get some extra cash.

So what's everyone think of putting a 2wd toyota rear in? They have the same wheel bolt pattern right? Plus they seem to be almost bullet proof.

The C clips are not an issue until after you break an axle shaft. The axle shafts in an 8.8 are huge and make the D35 shafts look like little toothpicks. If you could break a c clip in an 8.8, you will have bigger problems than just the c clips. :eek::eek:

compared to a stock 35 shaft they are. It's about .150" difference.
Unfortunately they are only .020" bigger than a Super35 or 44 shaft.

So what's everyone think of putting a 2wd toyota rear in? They have the same wheel bolt pattern right? Plus they seem to be almost bullet proof.

got one siting on the shelf, waiting for the Super35 to die. It may be awhile.

Are the 2wd toyota axle's the same width?

Are the 2wd toyota axle's the same width?

95-02 Tacoma is the one your looking for.

The C clips are not an issue until after you break an axle shaft. The axle shafts in an 8.8 are huge and make the D35 shafts look like little toothpicks. If you could break a c clip in an 8.8, you will have bigger problems than just the c clips.
It's even less of an issue on an 8.8 with disc brakes. If you get a Disc brake 8.8, the calipers actually keep the shaft from sliding out if you were to break a shaft.

Personally, I'd rather have a 44 than an 8.8, but for swapping into a XJ/YJ, the 8.8 has lots of things going for it and is a massive upgrade over the 35.

The 35 is a complete waste of money. Even if you upgrade it, I guarantee if you stick with this fourwheeling thing (assuming you do actually wheel), you will be getting rid of the 35, and they have crap resale.
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It's even less of an issue on an 8.8 with disc brakes. If you get a Disc brake 8.8, the calipers actually keep the shaft from sliding out if you were to break a shaft.

Same can be said if you put calipers on a D35.

Which - can be done on the cheap if you know how to fabricate.

My whole point is - I don't like the c-clip style axle. Short the housing completely coming apart, the c-clip is the one component that you dont want because it stands the greatest chance of leaving you fawked on the trail.

I can easily get a busted up rig off the trail if it still has 4 rolling wheels. It turns in to a lot more work when there is only 3 because the 4th fell out.

Which is what makes the 8.8 a lousy upgrade IMO. If you want to upgrade there are other options in the same price range that are better.

I have a 35 with a detroit truetrack and running on 37" tires and i beat on it . But it is all in the right peddle and the driver.

Truetrac is not a locker. I would also wager that your wheeling is in low traction situations like mud or sand.

Give it some time, it'll happen.
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I do nothing but rock I hate sand and mud . It is still good since 04'

Do you have a lot of rocks in Newton Falls, Ohio?
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It all depend where you go .Our Jeep club goes to a lot of different places . I have alot of rocks to play on in the area .

Did the Con to loon lake with a D35 with a lockright on 33" TSL's. No issues...but carried spares just in case :)D anything over 33 on the 35 is ppushing it. ANything over 31" on a heavy Jeep or too much skinny pedal with a d35 is also pushing it.


Run it, carry spares, and build a 44 on your spare time...

the 35 can survive, for a while, but they all go eventually.

I stripped spider gears on pavement on 33s, revved to 1500 and slowly let the clutch out (not sidestep). I also broke 2 OX lockers in a Super 35, one from a bad pin in the locker, and another on Moab Rim.

Also, they fatigue over time, especially the spiders. I have fixed 2 sets in gas station parking lots in Moab. One bound up, open on 33s. and another with a lunch box on 31s just slowly starting stripping teeth in the middle of a trail.

But if you break the shaft in the middle of nowhere, take lots of pictures, because you will have an awesome story to tell your kids one day about how you managed to limp your jeep for the whole way out (hitting it with a sledge every couple feet, duct taping a log to the side, taking off the tire and strapping a log, ect.)

running 33s with an open d35 and try to run it ease until i can find that d44 or f8.8 out there with my name on it. i was also informed about the yota axles, + i heard were stronger shafts and the third member was a good idea, - i had were the bolt pattern and a bit more narrower then stock and too close to the springs for my taste (depending on the year), and i just wasn't too sure about the after-market support at the time.

I think if you have to ask if a dana 35 will hold, chances are you aren't willing to get on the ground and change out some shattered component on the trail. You will be the guy strapping some log to your frame to keep the tire on while being dragged out of the way. I personally drive my rig everywhere I go and don't like having to rely on trailers or tow trucks to get me home 300 miles away. Get an axle you can depend on.

I worked at a Jeep dealer for a while. The lamest grocery getting Jeeps on stock tires (not even the 30" tire package) would have grenaded diffs, ring/pinions, and axle shafts. It was so funny seeing that.

I guess that is why I drive a toyota:flipoff2:

I think if you have to ask if a dana 35 will hold, chances are you aren't willing to get on the ground and change out some shattered component on the trail. You will be the guy strapping some log to your frame to keep the tire on while being dragged out of the way. I personally drive my rig everywhere I go and don't like having to rely on trailers or tow trucks to get me home 300 miles away. Get an axle you can depend on.

I worked at a Jeep dealer for a while. The lamest grocery getting Jeeps on stock tires (not even the 30" tire package) would have grenaded diffs, ring/pinions, and axle shafts. It was so funny seeing that.

I guess that is why I drive a toyota:flipoff2:

Well I drive a toyota too fawk head.:flipoff2: This is for my uncles jeep that is just getting started. We have done all the work to it so when we do have problems we can deal with it. All I have ever really dealt with is toyota so thats the reason for checking on the strenght of this axle so I know what to be prepared for. Right now he has spent his limit so we have to run what we have.

We finished up with the aussie last night so she's ready to roll. Guess we'll see what happens. I bought a spare axle so we will be prepared.:)

sounds like it needs a yota axle:smokin:

As long as you are prepared to deal with the worst, run it. I can't stand people that are oblivious to there rigs weak spots and just bash away on the trail. Then they wonder why there tire came off after that pop noise.

we run a 35 for 3 years with 35s and a lok-right and run it hard and never had any trouble. i think its all on how you drive

we run a 35 for 3 years with 35s and a lok-right and run it hard and never had any trouble. i think its all on how you drive
Dana 35, 35" tires, locker, and "run it hard"


I'm gonna go ahead and call BS on that.

"hard" is arelative term. If by hard you mean i followed guys on 60s where ever my tires/suspension could take me with my locked 35 on 35s then yeah i rode mine hard without issues too. If you define hard as comp style driving and pedal to the floor with no more then 2 wheels on the ground at any given time....then im with apeters.....

Dana 35, 35" tires, locker, and "run it hard"


I'm gonna go ahead and call BS on that.

I've seen a guy run 35x15 SX's on a D35 with detriot hard, meaning he'd go anywhere and try anything. He trussed it, had alloy shafts. I only recall him breaking one rear axle shaft but I think he went through a couple D30 shafts.

I'm running a D35 w/ 35's, but she isn't quite streetable. Waiting for my TW Drive shaft to come in. How would I know if I blow this thing up (other than serious jarring). Whats the sound? Tires locking up, wheel falling off, people foaming from the mouth, gas prices dropping? What?

I'm running a D35 w/ 35's, but she isn't quite streetable. Waiting for my TW Drive shaft to come in. How would I know if I blow this thing up (other than serious jarring). Whats the sound? Tires locking up, wheel falling off, people foaming from the mouth, gas prices dropping? What?

Some or all of the above. Seriously, you could get a mild clunk as you drive, to a literal parts falling on the ground depending upon what you damage. More times than not, you will hear a snap sound like a bone breaking, then notice one of the rear tires is walking itself out from under your Jeep. D35 have weak spider gears, weak axle shafts, toy brackets, axle tubes that bend easily so it is really just a crap shoot as to what goes first and how many parts go flying. :eek:

I'm running 35's on a D35 and It scares the shit outta me. I bought it geared with 4.56's and open differentials. I refuse to throw any money at the axles and went out and bought a GM14 bolt with 5.38's and a 79HP60. :smokin:

Some or all of the above. Seriously, you could get a mild clunk as you drive, to a literal parts falling on the ground depending upon what you damage. More times than not, you will hear a snap sound like a bone breaking, then notice one of the rear tires is walking itself out from under your Jeep. D35 have weak spider gears, weak axle shafts, toy brackets, axle tubes that bend easily so it is really just a crap shoot as to what goes first and how many parts go flying. :eek:


Partialy true, any 87-90 Dana 35 is going to be non c-clip. If you blow a shaft your tire stays on the axle, it doesn't slip out.

I'm running 35's on a D35 and It scares the shit outta me. I bought it geared with 4.56's and open differentials. I refuse to throw any money at the axles and went out and bought a GM14 bolt with 5.38's and a 79HP60. :smokin:

send me the 35 when you take it out.

Partialy true, any 87-90 Dana 35 is going to be non c-clip. If you blow a shaft your tire stays on the axle, it doesn't slip out.
My 90 was a c-clip.

My 90 was a c-clip.

Possibly because it was the last year they used non-clip and used the last of the non c-clip axles.

Its funny you should say that, of the two 90s wranglers we've pulled apart for parts in the past month or so one did have c-clip axles, the other did not. I was assuming maybe somebody broke it and swapped it in.

C clip or non c clip is really a moot issue until after you break an axle shaft :D

If you have bigger than 33's locked and bounce it will break. Keep the wheels on the ground and crawl slow and you will be fine. I watched a open 35 with 33's break to pieces, shaft, and ring and pinion. He was going up steps, full throttle and bouncing. One of the coolest noises i have ever heard.

I believe it was the gradual bending of the housing from the abuse causing the internal locker to bind and eventually break.

I also beleive this answer to be the true cause of most Dana 35 failures. Those housings are a weak design, period. I once helped a guy figure out what was wrong with his 35 in an XJ. He said his locker had been acting very funny after loading the XJ down with a lot of weight (his dumbass fault anyway), but not so badly afterward (he said it worked flawlessly before). We checked the axle housing, and sure enough, it was bent, causing the axle shafts to bind in the carrier.

Thanks for the advice. Hopefully in a few months, an 8.8 will finds its way under my jp