Alright the front flexes good and stops at about the right spot. I'm guessing I got about a 60/40 flex. I've already searched but all I found was on coilovers and springs not coils. The rear has 2-4" left of travel until the wheel is too near the wheelwell the shocks have the room, the brakelines have the room, but the bumpstop extensions stop it early. Simple fix shorten the bumpstops I know but question is anybody running a 50/50 flex rig on a TJ(Tityboy Jeep) and have you experienced any adverse affects? So far I've felt the front flex over the rocks and the rear not travel enough sending a front tire up in extreme situations. Put simply any ideas, pros cons, and side affects? Go ahead and flame but at least give an answer:flipoff2:

The most limiting thing on the rear of TJ is the short length of the shocks...or so I was told.

I think there are some other things you need to look at before just changing the bumpstops

Try shorting the bumpstops. I don't see any adverse handling problems from a 50/50 split. Would make the rig more pertictable I would think.

What are bumpstops? :flipoff2:

Shorten them up and check your shock length :beer:

In my opinion, there is NO SUCH THING as too much flex, but I know some people here may disagree ;)

Originally posted by Keith Strong
In my opinion, there is NO SUCH THING as too much flex, but I know some people here may disagree ;)

Oh, really?? :flipoff2: :D
http://www.moab-offroad.com/EJS98/98Trails/BehindRocks/bhtrroll.jpg

Originally posted by Welby


Oh, really?? :flipoff2: :D
http://www.moab-offroad.com/EJS98/98Trails/BehindRocks/bhtrroll.jpg

that cant be flex.. thats gotta be broke.. *i hope*:eek: :eek:

Originally posted by Welby


Oh, really?? :flipoff2: :D
http://www.moab-offroad.com/EJS98/98Trails/BehindRocks/bhtrroll.jpg


Would ARCA call that "rear steering" and deduct points?

Gotta love a properly designed rear suspension. That is one of the reasons that i dont like 1/4 elip. Once the weight transfers over center it just lets go. I wish i could of seen a video clip of this guys climb.

I bet it does great on a ramp though :rolleyes:

:D :eek:
http://www.moab-offroad.com/EJS98/98Trails/BehindRocks/bhtrroll.gif

Holy rear steer and anti-squat Batman! That pic should be posted anytime someone says they're new rear link suspension ramps 1200 on a 30 degree ramp. A balanced suspension would have helped a little there, but a properly designed rear is desperately needed.

Thanks Welby, if figured that had to be the outcome.

Driver error :flipoff2: :p

Originally posted by Keith Strong
Driver error :flipoff2: :p

Somebody's in denial :D :flipoff2:

Moveaside: You better get used to lifting that driver's side tire way up... It's a short arm thing.

I'm not a TJ guy, but here is my $0.02
- longer arms
- shorter bumpstops
- Tri-Y upper arm? (get rid of trackbar)
- adjustable arms?

Originally posted by Archie_G
I'm not a TJ guy, but here is my $0.02
- longer arms
- shorter bumpstops
- Tri-Y upper arm? (get rid of trackbar)
- adjustable arms? Longer adjustables are soon and are you talking about a upperarm that connects across the tube to each other? Anybody ever ran no trackbar on coils sounds:evil:I guess coils are for beds and coilovers huh?

Thanks for the pics Welby that's what I'm trying to avoid. From what I researched the Yota guys seem to like more flex in the rear because its so light in the back. Mine could use a little more flex in the back not as much as Dr Flipover in the pic. I'll shorten the stops an inch at a time no more than 2" for now get it on the rocks and see what happens.:D

Originally posted by MOVEASIDE
Anybody ever ran no trackbar on coils sounds

Try it....report back and let us know :rolleyes: :flipoff2:

Who needs a trac bar??

http://www.beast40.com/JeepPictures/j336.jpg


Maybe some limiting straps but thats a different story

http://www.beast40.com/JeepPictures/j371.jpg

Hey Beast40 how does your rig handle after the front wheels clear the rock and the rear has to droop? And does the rear try to climb under you if the front gets a lot of resistance? Like your exhaust short and sweet:p I was watching a spider get over a rock and they move their ass(thorax I think) down as much as they can before they crest the rock to stable themselves. If that's how they do it why can't I? Last question have you checked which one flexes more the front or the rear or are they even on your rig?

brandon, if you are interested in the Y link thing go look under a liberty:D

What I found on my TJ is that with out limiting the front it would max out before the rear would start to work. What I did is found the spot that I would still get almost max flex in the front and also max stuff in the rear. I had to mess with is a bit and guess and check. With out the front limited it would look like it was flexing a lot but the body would roll with out the rear stuffing to keep the body straighter. What I did is take a chain and just started to shorten the down travel of the front and then the rear would start to work when the front was at the max that I had set. After finding where this was I took a measurement and then put in limiting straps witch turned out to be about the same length as a rancho 9012. With doing this I was able to ramp higher and keep the body straight with the ground. Mess around with that and I think that it will work out for you.

I take it you have removed your rear swaybar... and have the front disco'd?? Otherwise the rear swaybar will limit your rear flex.

If you think it's the shocks, disconnect then then ramp it.

Oh, and adjust you bump stops for f&%$ sakes :rolleyes:

Sway bars!!? Sway bars!? Who needs sway bars!? :flipoff2:

Moveaside, what I had heard about was the tri-link control arm from Rockkrawler http://www.rockkrawler.com/pages/tjaccs.html#controlarms (at the bottom of the page). It replaces the upper contol arms and trackbar.

but, I really like Beast40's set up better.

Originally posted by MOVEASIDE
Hey Beast40 how does your rig handle after the front wheels clear the rock and the rear has to droop? And does the rear try to climb under you if the front gets a lot of resistance? Like your exhaust short and sweet:p I was watching a spider get over a rock and they move their ass(thorax I think) down as much as they can before they crest the rock to stable themselves. If that's how they do it why can't I? Last question have you checked which one flexes more the front or the rear or are they even on your rig?


The rear of my suspension flexs more then the front in its current form, I am still messing with the rear trying to balance it out more. My main concern is the current shock location and angle, I am going to move them as wide as possible and make them perpendicular to the ground. (if possible) For the most part the tub follows the front suspension, the rear almost acts on its own, which I would like to change. Other things I am changing include longer coils or coilovers and front and rear antirock sway bars.

Beast... You gonna make it to the Poole Rd. run tonite?

I wanna see that big green monster in action again!
:smokin:

Originally posted by MOVEASIDE
the Yota guys seem to like more flex in the rear because its so light in the back.Wouldn't be too sure about that. The reason the rear springs flex at all with no weight back there is because Toy rear springs have REALLY low spring rate - I think either 130 or 150 lb/in.

With 14" of rear travel and 22" of front travel, you can see that the axle both participate until my rear shocks top out, and then it's all front flex:
http://home.off-road.com/~mithrandir/flex/flex18.jpg

Its not your swaybar that is limiting your flex, its your trackbar. Disco'ing or removing the rear swaybar is simply a bandaid for issues resulting from trackbar bind.

Tri-angulating the rear uppers like Beast 40 did will allow you to run without a trackbar or else you can play around with the stock set-up if you do not want a huge project to deal with. What I did was use an RE angled trackbar mount and an RE rear trackbar that was modified to accept a heim at each end. That will free up the rear without major surgery.

Its not your swaybar that is limiting your flex, its your trackbar.

What are you smoking dude? Sway bars ALWAYS limit flex. Bottom line, take your rear sway bars off (maybe your fronts too, I did, definitley more fun on those fast corners :smokin: ). You don' need to go through all the trouble of Tri-angulating the rear just to get even flex, especially if you plan on swapping axles.

Obviously I am not smoking as good of chit as you are :rasta:

Originally posted by Wish4YJ


What are you smoking dude? Sway bars ALWAYS limit flex. Bottom line, take your rear sway bars off (maybe your fronts too, I did, definitley more fun on those fast corners :smokin: ). You don' need to go through all the trouble of Tri-angulating the rear just to get even flex, especially if you plan on swapping axles.


Whoa buddy, sway bars do not ALWAYS limit flex, where did you hear that one?? Secondly think about what a trac bar does and then think about what it does to your suspension cycle. Since you run the RE LA think of what happens when you drop your drivers side rear tire, the trac bar wants to pull the axle in wards. One great thing to do to help limit the bind your rear trac bar puts on your suspension is to run double heims. It is a popular replacement for the RE kit especially in your neck of the country.

Ok sorry, let me clarify...

Your Stock TJ sway bars (meaning with extended links) will limit your flex...however there are setups that do not limit flex of course.

As for the trackbar, RE LA setups have good flex with it, although you get much more flex with out it. (as Beast has shown, which is exactly what I am planning).

All I was saying is that to get "even" flex he doesn't need to go through the trouble of triangulating the arms...

Originally posted by The Rockslut
Gotta love a properly designed rear suspension. That is one of the reasons that i dont like 1/4 elip. Once the weight transfers over center it just lets go. I wish i could of seen a video clip of this guys climb.

I bet it does great on a ramp though :rolleyes:

Damn, I gotta say you are quite a bit wrong on this. My Flatty had some TRAVEL out of the rear end, but it never forced a tire up like that. Hell it never lifted a tire unless the front ran out of travel. The reason the tire lifts on these trucks is due to poor design on the links. The links have to be longer than stock TJ crap. I mean the Longarm kit really is not long enough. You have to find the instant center and work around taht. I have my bottom links over 4 feet long on the flatty. The top links were parrallel with the frame rails. I am not saying my truck was the shit, but it sure never lifted a tire like my other rigs did with leaf springs all around. Granted I did roll it at CALrocs, but that was because of the climb I was doing. Other than that, the truck can sidehill all of little sluice, and still climb just about anything in its way. REar travel is VERY important. Just like travel out of your front end is.

Dimitri

Originally posted by Wish4YJ
All I was saying is that to get "even" flex he doesn't need to go through the trouble of triangulating the arms...

Actually,
To get even flex on a TJ without trianglating the arms, all you need to do is run an Anti-rock up front, in conjunction with a properly modified rear swaybar (ie, use of Anti-rock links instead of regualr stock links) and a trackbar that has been modified to reduce bind - ie, use of a hiem joint at each end. This works on short or long arm suspensions.

Saying that removal of the rear swaybar (rather than addressing the trackbar) is the correct course of action for modifying a TJ rear suspension misses the point - the trackbar binds. The swaybars will control flex while only slightly impacting it. Getting rid of bind is where the real flex is.

I already had an order for an adjustable(heimed) tracbar before I posted to try and keep the tracbar from ripping the bracket off so that is a done deal. The anti-rock is cool I've seen it work but I may go el cheapO and fab up some quick discos for the rear. But ultimately doing something like Beast40 did is probably going to kick the most ass. Addressing the issue of the tracbar and longarm in the same ticket. Thanks for the help. Beast40 dumb question you made those arms yourself right? What kind of shocks are you using in the rear at that angle?:beer:

I did not make the uppers, they are the uppers from my former RE Long arm kit. It was easier that way and they already had dual cartridge joints.

The shocks are DT3368s but I do not have them set-up properly yet. I will be moving them as wide as possible for stability and try to make them perpendicular to the ground. (probably run them through the tub.

I run my rear sway bar... Then again, I never really fussed much about the wheel travel; I just drive it!:D

I've known a few people who refused to run em. I didnt notice if they did better on the trail or not, but I did notice I waited a lot for them to put their coils back in ;)