There was quite a hughe demand for the pics, but apprently BJOR couldn't post them...

Here they come :

undeneath front at flex
http://toy4x4.free.fr/underneath.jpg

approach angle 35s
http://toy4x4.free.fr/approach.jpg

cruiser may 02
http://toy4x4.free.fr/cruiser.jpg

front spring arch
http://toy4x4.free.fr/arch.jpg

spring perch DS60 on 40
http://toy4x4.free.fr/ds60.jpg

55 spring swap
http://toy4x4.free.fr/55.jpg

notice the green engine, and the wrong side of the driver's side...


:D

Now I understand...
Look what your pictures looked like... Maybe you should crop the HUGE boders next time... :flipoff2:

denis has attached this image:
http://toy4x4.free.fr/sample.jpg

Dumb question, but what is the advantage of these axles over the stock 40 axles??

Christof

- they are 3 or 4" wider than the 40-series
- if you have an old-style (drum knuckle) FR axle you have all the good stuff with no work (same for the self-adj 1 cylinder drum in the rear)
- the rears are almost always FF (here in Europe at least) but the Aussie don't care about this : their 40s are FF too...:rolleyes:
- bad thing is that here in Europe most of them have 3.70s ...

Ok, time for the next stupid question, what's the advantage of a full floater rear axle??

Christof

couple of advantages of a full floeter. First safety when you break an axle shaft on a semi-floater it can jetison from the vehicle. Just fly right off and your truck will fall to the ground. On a full flaoter when you break and axle the wheel stays in place because the axle is not supporting the truck like in a semi floater. So in essence if you were on a off-raod trip and broak a rear axle in a ff you can continue on just in three wheel drive (with a locker) but with a semi floater you will be stuck where ever you are until the axle is fixed. Also the full floater is stronger because you don't have the stress of the weight of the vehicle on the axle. Also it's a little easier to take a full floater axle out. I'm sure there are plenty of other advantages that I have left off but those are what come to mind immediately.

-ben

Originally posted by m016324 ]
couple of advantages of a full floeter. First safety when you break an axle shaft on a semi-floater it can jetison from the vehicle. Just fly right off and your truck will fall to the ground. On a full flaoter when you break and axle the wheel stays in place because the axle is not supporting the truck like in a semi floater. So in essence if you were on a off-raod trip and broak a rear axle in a ff you can continue on just in three wheel drive (with a locker) but with a semi floater you will be stuck where ever you are until the axle is fixed.

This is true if the semi float axle is a C-Clip axle. A Ford 9" or a Toyota Mini truck Semi Floater is attached at the end of the axle and will not fall off if broken


Also the full floater is stronger because you don't have the stress of the weight of the vehicle on the axle.

The diameter of my 35 spline semi floating D60 axle is 1.5" and the diameter of a Full Floating D60 axle is 1.33". Same, same with Cruiser axles. Full floater axles are used for vehicles that carry heavy loads as the 2 bearings (versus one bearing on a Semi-float) carries the weight better.

Also it's a little easier to take a full floater axle out.

That is a fact if you are comparing C-clip semi floats to Full Floaters, no need to open the diff and screw with those God-Aweful C-Clips.

I'm sure there are plenty of other advantages that I have left off but those are what come to mind immediately.-ben [/B]

Disadvantages of FF versus semi float on a Cruiser are more moving parts to mess up. Drive plates or rear hubs need more maintenace than Semi-float axles and the diameter of the axle shaft is smaller on the semi-float.

All that said, I would rather have a Cruiser FF axle than a C-Clip Cruiser axle due to the fact that C-Clip axles, once broken will separate frm the vehicle if you are running drum brakes. Disc brakes in the rear will keep the axle in for a short time, but I would not do it for a long trek.

As for my axles, I chose a Semi Float D60 over a FF D60 because they do not have C Clips, they have larger 35 spline axles and they weigh less than the FF Axles (all things being equal)

here is the resaonings

in Oz, from 1980 onwards we got disc fronts and the handbrake rear drums with single cylinders so upgrading to teh 60 housings was simple and cheap as all my jnk bolted straight on....the reaon i did it was 2 fold, greater flex, and stability due to width, i can run 38.5s without any rubbing (SOA) 2" body lift

i have a rear disc setup which is cool, full float rear axles, transfer disc brakes, 139kw turbo diesel, 750NM torque, run 38.5 boggers, beadlocks offroad,

85mm wider (long side only, short side are same axles front and rear)

i didnt want to outboard cause i thought outboarding would limit my flex and would make the leafs closer to the tyres at full lock....so i welded an inner u-bolt on....well nick and craig (two guys helped with my springover, actually did the whole front axle) it was all there idea, and stuff, using pictures, that i printed out from the board here, of that blue hardtop on FJ60 axles........ so i really shouldnt take any credit

so much easier to change a rear diff too, pop axle, drop centre, bolt centre in, bolt axle on.....hammer down (tailshafts, airlocker lines too :p)

if you got an older FJ like denis said there are MANY ore advantages including larger rear drums, rear handbrake, front discs, wider, some cases stronger, some cases full float

but all cruisers after 75 got full float over here....so the semi flaots are not very common.......

keep in mind this is when it was still shiny :flipoff2: its been trashed a lot since this....

more pics

i just need to get a higher clearance pitman arm and maybe i can sort that out this weekend ;)

sorry the pics are so :eek:

but ill try and take some better shots soon

if any of you guys copy it i can explain in step by step detail how far across and up to go and how much more beef you need (mine was beefy enough....but i made it neater and a lot stronger since then.....:D

750 NM....:eek:
How did you find this figure ? Did you actually dyno-test it ? It's a HUGE torque to say the least... 2 times what a stock 1HD-T makes !!! And what does your tranny think about it ?

(OK, maybe I'm a bit skeptic... and slightly jealous, too :flipoff2:)

Bye,

The diameter of my 35 spline semi floating D60 axle is 1.5" and the diameter of a Full Floating D60 axle is 1.33".

Unless you have a full floating D60HD with the big spindles, then the axles are 35-spline and 1.5" in daimater.:smokin:

Originally posted by Medusa


Unless you have a full floating D60HD with the big spindles, then the axles are 35-spline and 1.5" in daimater.:smokin:

True, true...those are out of certain vans, right? Pretty rare too , I might add.

so, are teh Fj60 axels stronger than the FJ40 axels? Are the front birfs bigger? Is teh rear offset or centered?

Thanks

The axles are the same strength in a FJ-60 as a FJ-40 as are the birfields in Post-79 FJ-40's.

The advantage of the FJ-60 axle is the width.

The rear is also offset.

your v belt seems to need to be tightened.http://toy4x4.free.fr/arch.jpg

True, true...those are out of certain vans, right? Pretty rare too , I might add.
The D60HD axles are rare and the big spindle versions are even more rare. I believe Eric on this board also has one, though. I don't think there is any rhyme nor reason in what they might be found in -- some vans are supposed to have them, but mine came out a an early '70s Dodge truck

Hey wngrog, what about the axle housing itself, is the 60/62 housing any stronger in the rear? It looks like it, and both axles have more gusseting on them, but if you compare 40 to 60 not only is the 60 wider it also looks bigger around, thicker. Plus if you take a look at the pumkin it looks like there is ore cross gusseting across the face of it, like a ford 9". Just wondering, cause no one has cleared this up for me yet.


Mitch

Originally posted by wngrog


True, true...those are out of certain vans, right? Pretty rare too , I might add.
But the spindles can be bored out on the small ones and you can buy aftermarket 35 spline axles to shove in there, and you'll have the best of both worlds!

Originally posted by Spyder
Hey wngrog, what about the axle housing itself, is the 60/62 housing any stronger in the rear? It looks like it, and both axles have more gusseting on them, but if you compare 40 to 60 not only is the 60 wider it also looks bigger around, thicker. Plus if you take a look at the pumkin it looks like there is ore cross gusseting across the face of it, like a ford 9". Just wondering, cause no one has cleared this up for me yet.


Mitch

the housings, i have reinforced myself, they are pretty much the same from factory, i trussed right across the top of the front, in case the wheels lift up and land heavily

the centres are from 80 series rears so the mouldings on them are different, its a stronger design, less flex in the actual centre itself and 3* better pinion angle i am told.......plus they looks cool...

Whats the wms to wms on a fj 60 front ?? Any one have a link to 60 front specs?? Thanks

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The diameter of my 35 spline semi floating D60 axle is 1.5" and the diameter of a Full Floating D60 axle is 1.33".
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Unless you have a full floating D60HD with the big spindles, then the axles are 35-spline and 1.5" in daimater.
__________________________________________________
I bored mine out. And put in 35 spline dutchman shafts. They are the same size as 35 spline 9 inch axle shafts. Mine rear axle came out of a 2 wheel drive 79 dodge. I think it was a camo quote. 60's and cheap should never be in the same sentence.
.

Oh yea or chop saw off the ends and go to pic and pull with the cordless sawzall and get what ever ends you want. Your getting custom shafts then any way.

Did something happen to all the first pics? <insert funny I can see shit picture here>

-Ferg-

Originally posted by theferg
Did something happen to all the first pics? <insert funny I can see shit picture here>

-Ferg-

Thread is too old.

Doh! Good call. I musta missed this thread the first time around... :rolleyes:

Umm, yep I did--because I joined 4 months after that thread was around...

-Ferg-

Uhm...

http://www.aros.net/~hceline/art/worthless.gif

Sorry, Ijust love this graphic...

sorry guy I didn't have the red star yet back then. I must still have the pics on my harddrive, tho... the trick is that there isn't a ubolt next to the pumpkin, just a plate with two bolts coming up -nothing fancy...

WOW back from the dead ... cool pics

Originally posted by wngrog
This is true if the semi float axle is a C-Clip axle. A Ford 9" or a Toyota Mini truck Semi Floater is attached at the end of the axle and will not fall off if broken

this is not always true. SF axles can and sometimes do break by the flange and then you will loose the tire just like if a C-Clip axle breaks. the good thing about the non c-clip axles is that most of the time they don't break at the flange. you are correct that the non c-clip is definatly better than a C-Clip axle though.


[b] Also it's a little easier to take a full floater axle out.

That is a fact if you are comparing C-clip semi floats to Full Floaters, no need to open the diff and screw with those God-Aweful C-Clips.

FF shafts are still alot easier to remove than a non c-clip axle. you don't even have to jack up the FF or take the tire off for that matter much less remove the brakes.

the only down side i see to a FF is the weight. for a trail rig like mine i prefer a FF rear axle. if i were to build a full on comp buggy i'd definatly go with a SF to save weight.just my op.