Im still in that stage of "Get it running and reliable" before all the major fuss gets started... And yes I did a search...

Question Number 1...

What is the Diode Looking thingy (tech talk there) mounted on a wire going to the coil? Its purpose?

Question Number 2...

I know on bigger american engines, a powerful coil is a nice upgrade... I can get one of those Accel Super Coils that looks identical to the stock Zuki one. I want to replace mine anyhow, so would to powerful of a coil be a problem on such a teeny little motor? I wouldn't think so, but could use some more info...

Question Number 3...

If I go to the Accel coil, do I still need that Diode thingamabobber?

I looked in the manual for the thingamabobber, but to no avail...

Thanks, Hugh

The diode thingymabob is probably a fusable link.
I have a Jacobson oil filled coil on my sammy. It does help some but with a 60hp motor, we need all the help we can get.
Leave the thingymabob alone. If it ain't broke...........

While your still in the getting it running stages, I would make sure that it is in time and the valves are gapped right. It was one of the best tips I got when I was in the "getting it running" stage. But ain't we always in that stage.....

Later-

:trooper: :flipoff2: :beer:

yea had one one my CJ-7. It is used as a rectifier, converts alternating current into direct current.

Thanks, i think ill go for a better coil then, hell why not right?

As for that valve bit, i have adjusted those damn things at least 10 times, and i still have valve noise... Not really bad noise, and I don't think it to be damaging at all, but any other ideas what it might be... I already put in new NGK plugs, gapped at .028... Timing Belt went in today, all new wires, button and cap... 93 octane, but Im sure its not spark knock... Timing is at 10 BTDC at 800 RPM...

Maybe worn valve guides perhaps, or is it just an old Zuk and I should deal with it like the Yota guys?

When does the valve knocking start??
Does it sound good until it gets hot and then back to the knocking??

If so you may want to replace the nuts with the oval ones that lock in place, or clean the old ones up and use some threadlock on em.

I set mine while the engine was cold to the specs in the book and havn't had any more trouble from them....

Be careful not to set them too tight.....

They sound horrible when its cold, and when it gets warmer, they quiet down some, but not completely... I set them cold at factory specs... You can hear them all through the RPM range, well, i guess after 5,000 you can't really hear them with all the other noise, but you know... Maybe i should set them tighter? Looser? The factory specs say .010 and .011 cold (I can't remember right off hand which side gets which spec)... Id like to get them quiter if I could...

I bought the Yellow Coil from Accel and put it in today, I can actually tell a difference in power and it idles just a bit smoother... Maybe my old one needed replacement, but for $30 its worth a try eh?

I set them cold at factory specs


try setting them after the engine has w0ormed up thats the way ive always set mine

turn the radio up louder.....isnt that what you told me to do:flipoff2: Wait....do you even have a radio. Just install swampers and the tire hum above 30mph will drown out the valves.

see ya monday....i am excited about wrenching now that my truck works again. We will see how long it last.

oh...off subject.....Jed got some 33 TSL on order....dont know what he wants to do with his old SSR's.....but we could trim some fenders :) ....i know i am the devil. (Get it running first...blahblah)

32's on the stock Zuki, hell if he just wants to get rid of em, lets do it... We'll even weld the front up then too... Until the toys and 35's go on at least right? Im soo glad that damn truck works now... :rolleyes: :rolleyes: Oh well... See ya monday to do that aluminum floorpan... I got some Ideas I think you'll like, but lets see what tony thinks as well...