What are you guys using to run air lines in the shop. Not the hoses but the hard lines from the compressor to certain areas of the shop before you go to hoses. Copper is very $$$$ is there a cheaper alternative? Thanks
CRS

Considering this is basically a one-time expense I still don't see copper as being that much more spendy than anything else. You could also consider black pipe if you can a) thread it or b)are willing to measure all your necessary lengths and have someone else thread it for you.

There are high-zoot kits that are just supposed to push together, but I'll always stick with something that uses parts sold at any local hardware store. W a tubing cutter and torch you can modify any copper system.

black pipe, hf bandsaw or tubing cutter, hs threader. cheap and works great.

1/2" truck brake lines with pressure fittings. (same stuff we use for the brakes on our two dumptrucks)

black pipe, hf bandsaw or tubing cutter, hs threader. cheap and works great.

In the middle of retrofitting my shop right now with black iron pipe. I was tired of dragging hoses everywhere and having them zig zagging across the shop

I thought the two or three other threads on this exact subject were quite extensive. Personally, I'm running copper. PVC blows up, pipe rusts.

I thought the two or three other threads on this exact subject were quite extensive. Personally, I'm running copper. PVC blows up, pipe rusts.

X2

I thought the two or three other threads on this exact subject were quite extensive. Personally, I'm running copper. PVC blows up, pipe rusts.

x3 search newb :flipoff2:

Also, if you have a smaller shop and are located in an industrial area you might want to look at just getting large diameter (1/2" or 3/4") hose made for the main runs. Just a though.

You can also go with galvanized

We have used galvanized in our machine shop for years with no issues.

I am on a project right now putting in a 1" main 1500' long with galvanized which will be burried underground.

In my 2 car garage I have galvanized runs for the first 20ft or so up/down then it goes to my coolant systems then to go to my 3 drops I just used air hose. Cheap, easy, and not much required for my lil garage.

When I get my own house (read: own) I plan to use 1" copper pipes to the drops. I HATE threading and tigthening shit. I'd much rather do it right once.

When I get my own house (read: own) I plan to use 1" copper pipes to the drops. I HATE threading and tigthening shit. I'd much rather do it right once.

Yeah, and not too mention the ease of adding into a copper run: hack section out, solder "T" in, make new run.

Adding into pipe run: Go to end of system, tear down to point of run, cut pipe, thread pipe, install t, put rest of system back, leak check, find some bubbles, tear system back apart, fix the leak, find two more new ones...

No thanks.

i ran pvc its up for 5 years and no probs

i ran pvc its up for 5 years and no probs

russian roulette

i ran pvc its up for 5 years and no probs

It's pretty dumb to do something stupid. It's even dumber to get on the internet and brag about it.

People under estimate the # of people who use PVC. A LOT of industrial shops use it too.

People under estimate the # of people who use PVC. A LOT of industrial shops use it too.

There's also different grades of PVC.

I'm considering an underground run about 60' long using 450psi PVC.

There's also different grades of PVC.

I'm considering an underground run about 60' long using 450psi PVC.

That's what I was kinda hinting towards... it can be done right.

To cut into an existing black iron line instead of unthreading all the way could always get a socket weld tee and just cut spread and weld in with a short nipple.:smokin:

That's what I was kinda hinting towards... it can be done right.

including an excess flow check valve at the compressor is probably a good idea if you run PVC or soft line. that way your compressor doesnt run all day and destroy itself when you aren't there and the lines explode.

i'm currently running softline from my compressor to the hose reel because its by far the cheapest material(under half the price of black pipe) and because there are no fittings required, and its easy and can be changed and moved around at any time with no effort. i will be adding an excess flow valve just for extra safety.

Yep... this has been covered several times on here before I'm sure.

I have my compressor in the basement of my house in a controlled temp environment (no wife to piss and moaning about it running). Then I have copper to the band board of my house converted to 1" ID black plastic underground pipe. From there its buried underground to my shop 120' away. Into the shop and back to copper 3/4" tubing. this is routed to a dryer then to several ports through out the shop including a 50' retractable reel in the rafters in the middle of my shop.

The large black plastic tubing underground has been fine now for 8 years and holds enough volume that I don't have any issues with any pressure drops in the shop.

I also have a manifold in the basement that I have routed 3/4" copper tubing through out my basement shop and then out to my attached two car garage. All on separate shut off valves plus a main air shut off valve at the compressor 80 gal tank outlet that is ALWAYS shut off when I'm not in any of the shops working.

A word about copper tubing also - I use the thicker copper tubing used for propane or natural gas - I think the water tubing has red print stripping on it and gas tubing will have blue.

You can use a union to cut in a tee in steel pipe, without disassembling the whole system.

You can use a union to cut in a tee in steel pipe, without disassembling the whole system.

Yeah, assuming you have a threader to install said union with.

It's pretty dumb to do something stupid. It's even dumber to get on the internet and brag about it.

1.5" schedule 40 PVC for over 15 years, not one failure or problem.

it is at 120psi 365 days a year, in the winter it goes from 0* to 60 in a couple hours every time we're in the shop.

You can use a union to cut in a tee in steel pipe, without disassembling the whole system.

I run unions in my copper inside lines at various intersections and what not - just soldiered on - how hard can it be?

1.5" schedule 40 PVC for over 15 years, not one failure or problem.

it is at 120psi 365 days a year, in the winter it goes from 0* to 60 in a couple hours every time we're in the shop.

You're like that fucker that everyone knows that runs 38" boggers on a 10 bolt and never breaks.:flipoff2:

People under estimate the # of people who use PVC. A LOT of industrial shops use it too.

But it's not legal, OSHA prohibits the use of PVC for transporting
compressed gases in above ground installations. The shop I used to work at got nailed for it. Replaced everything with black iron. They had several blow outs before going to black iron.

This is funny... I can't tell you how many air hose lines I've seen burst in the shop and start whipping around = they are your real weak link.

This is funny... I can't tell you how many air hose lines I've seen burst in the shop and start whipping around = they are your real weak link.

LOL, I had a quick-connect break on my 1/2" impact. It was quite thrilling!

A 2" pvs sch 40 pipe is good for 280 psi. I get the argument, we use it at work actually. However i wont take the risk, i use black pipe in my shop

A 2" pvs sch 40 pipe is good for 280 psi. I get the argument, we use it at work actually. However i wont take the risk, i use black pipe in my shop

2" pvc is good for 166 p.s.i. @73*

@ 140*, it's only good for 20% of it's original strength, that's 33 p.s.i. working pressure, 178 p.s.i. burst pressure. Do you feel lucky?

It loses half it's strength at only 110*, that's 83 p.s.i. working pressure, 445 p.s.i. burst.

I have a hard time seeing this as a logical choice, personally.

2" pvc is good for 166 p.s.i. @73*

@ 140*, it's only good for 20% of it's original strength, that's 33 p.s.i. working pressure, 178 p.s.i. burst pressure. Do you feel lucky?

It loses half it's strength at only 110*, that's 83 p.s.i. working pressure, 445 p.s.i. burst.

I have a hard time seeing this as a logical choice, personally.

Those ratings are also probably static, with well supported piping and no shock loading like one would expect to see in a compressed gas application.

Yes, I did use PVC, UNTIL I learned how dangerous it was.

Don't fawking use PVC for compressed air plumbing!

Would you use poop pipe for a cage? Don't use plastic water pipe for air!

It is not a matter of what pressure PVC can hold, but what happens when it breaks...

Just to add to the discussion, I was out at Spring Carlisle today and saw this system: RapidAir (www.rapidairproducts.com)

First thought it was an aluminum system like GaragePak until I got closer, then thought it was PEX. Salesman said it was nylon tubing. A 100' roll of 1/2" diameter tubing is $50 and the fittings are about $5 a piece. They also have an "industrial" aluminum setup that you could use for the main runs - the tubing for that goes up to 3" in diameter... :eek:

I guess I was spoiled at my last job.. I ran 3/4" Stainless pipe in my garage for the main and 1/2" stainless pipe for the drops. Also my QD's are stainless also. The company I worked for sells watering systems that have to be in stainless pipe..

4" schedule 40 PVC, rated at 280 psi, never saw over 110 psi. Lasted 2 years then BOOM. Pieces went everywhere.

4" schedule 40 PVC, rated at 280 psi, never saw over 110 psi. Lasted 2 years then BOOM. Pieces went everywhere.

Yea, but we're talking shop air lines, not potato guns.


:)

They make this shit called Kytec that we used... it's actually made for in floor heating systems. It's a layer of flexible aluminum sandwiched between two layers of plastic. I think it was pretty cheap too... actually the fittings for it was where most of the money was.

Yea, but we're talking shop air lines, not potato guns.


:)

It was an accumulator in the air system.

It was an accumulator in the air system.

I know, I was just messing with you!

http://www.imperialinc.com/items.asp?item=0959160

How about this stuff? Think it's any good?

People under estimate the # of people who use PVC. A LOT of industrial shops use it too.

How many people you know who have driven a vehicle totally drunk and still made it home safely? People who smoked 3 packs a day and never got cancer? People who never saw a doctor and lived into their 90's? People who never wore a seatbelt and walked away from head-on collision without a scratch?

Just because a lot of people do something and get away with it for a long time doesn't mean it's a smart or safe thing to do. Your air lines might never :nuke: but the logic behind your argument just did.

This thread reminds me I have yet another project for the shop...

Right now I just have soft line running from the compressor to a reel on the wall half way down the garage. When I do run it, I'm going to use copper. It is so easy to deal with.

A 2" pvs sch 40 pipe is good for 280 psi. I get the argument, we use it at work actually. However i wont take the risk, i use black pipe in my shop

WATER ONLY at that pressure. ASTM 1785 is pretty clear that rating is NOT to be used for compressable gasses (i.e. compressed air). Rating for max air pressure.... 4psi! PVC yield strength is 7000 psi (about 15% of black pipe!).

Glad you're using black pipe!

WATER ONLY at that pressure. ASTM 1785 is pretty clear that rating is NOT to be used for compressable gasses (i.e. compressed air). Rating for max air pressure.... 4psi! PVC yield strength is 7000 psi (about 15% of black pipe!).

Glad you're using black pipe!

Just checked the max pressure for the 1.5" we have and it is 455psi @73*

Just checked the max pressure for the 1.5" we have and it is 455psi @73*

and 90psi @ 140*, and again, not meant for the surges that are had in compressed air lines, or the oils.

and 90psi @ 140*, and again, not meant for the surges that are had in compressed air lines, or the oils.

Even better than that, it gets brittle with UV light... I know of at least one plumber who won't use the stuff for water.

and 90psi @ 140*, and again, not meant for the surges that are had in compressed air lines, or the oils.


I will surely update this thread if it ever fails, until then I will be the guy who hasn't broken a dana 30 with 38's :flipoff2: