I twin sticked my 205 last night and was looking for what everyone has done to fab there own shifters. on some of the posts I saw someone mention that you could use 2 factory shifters and just a longer bolt. I have my factory one and a D21 shifter that appear to work but I was wondering where y'all found a bolt to work?

bottom line, I was wondering if y'all could show some pic's of your home made shifters so I could get some ideas for fabing mine?

BTW, I spent about an hour searching last night and only found one.

on some of the posts I saw someone mention that you could use 2 factory shifters and just a longer bolt.

I used the factory bolt, and two factory shifters. You just have to do some minor alteration to make the factory shifters mate together. I'll see if I can't snap a pic of it for you later today.

http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/groundhawg/117514.jpg
http://offroadworld.tenmagazines.com/gallery/groundhawg/117515.jpg

Here are two pics of my triple stick. It's definitly not the prettiest seet-up here on P4x4, but it does work.

The biggest gripe I have about it is that it just doesn't make enough leverage for the rear shift rail to work right. The shifter has a very short throw, and the way I set up the arm, it just isn't the best. It does work, but that's about all I'll give it.

I did use the stock shifter location. I did have to get a longer bolt. I also used two stock 205 shifters...parts of two anyway. It wasn't that bad. Next time I think I am going to use cables though.

I'll see if I can't snap a pic of it for you later today.


that would be awsome! thanks

Groundhawg: where did you get your links from?

Honestly, I don't remember. I know I used 3/8" all-thread for the shafts. Not sure what size bolt the spherical end took.

I googled it real quick...might sheck Speedway Motors...maybe even some of the go-cart stuff too. I'd say Jeg's or Summit would probably have them also.

where did you get your links from?

www.mcmaster.com

Here is a picture of my old triple stick, BW1356/NP205 setup. The linkage is all 3/8" CRS, the links are all lawn mower tie rod ends. Got them at the local ACE hardware small engine department for $3 each. Thread is 3/8 NF, they worked great.

http://www.rollmeover.com/jeepboard/low_460drtrn2_002.jpg

Later,
Jason

Okay, as promised, here are two pics at the shifter end. As you can see, I used the stock bolt, all I did was modify two of the stock shifters to work with it:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/proeliator1/Picture002.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/proeliator1/Picture001.jpg

For the transfer case end, I just made some sleeves out of pipe and welded tabs in them to bolt the heims to:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/proeliator1/Picture003.jpg

Finally, the top side. They don't take up much space and shift nice and smooth. I think I had about thirty bucks into this project, most of that being the twinstick boot:

http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/proeliator1/Picture004.jpg
http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k248/proeliator1/Picture005.jpg

I spy a nawz bottle :laughing:

Here's an idea I'm working on for a "twin-stick" Ford 205, and I don't forsee any problems with the design, I just haven't actually fully assembled it yet with the case and the adapter/shifter/pivot bolt. I see no need for twin sticks at all, and I believe it will also clear with a Ford 203 doubler, but obviously I havent got that far yet either.

Not only did I grind the rear shift shaft interlock dams a little longer to allow front only engagement, but I shortened the long shaft(front I believe) to be the same legnth as the short one. I made a flat equalizer bar to go between them. I biased the hole in the bar for the shifter linkage to be closer to the front shift rod to help clear the shifter for the doubler when it gets there. With the shifter linkage biased greatly to the front side, the front side, due to mechanical advantage, will always shift first. Then it will stop at the interlock dam, forcing the rear shaft to move next. The trick will be to fine tune the bias to the front side as far as possible so that only enough force is developed to be able to shift the rear side with the greatly reduced mechanical advantage. This is neccesary to ensure that the front side always moves first, so it will have a consistent shift pattern.

With just the standard shifter, starting from neutral, one push ahead would be front low. Another push ahead would be 4 low. Since the shifter's linkage is going to be biased to the front, one push back from 4 lo is going to send the front to neutral. This is how you will get rear low. Since the interlock dam will hold the front shaft at neutral until the rear shaft arrives back at neutral, it will shift from rear low back to neutral with the next push back.

The high side will be basically the same. Instead of going into rear hi, then 4 hi, it will go into front hi first, then 4 hi, then rear hi when going back out of 4 hi because the front shaft will always move first. Its a little inconvenient, but I don't think its enough extra effort to be concerned with. To get to rear hi, you'll have to go all the way to 4 hi, then back up one spot, and to go to front hi from 4 hi, you'll have to go up to neutral, then back one spot. This may seem like extra shifting, but when you figure in the extra simplicity of having only one stick and linkage, I think its worth it. Combine that with a t-handle and pull cable mounted to the case shifter for the doubler, your looking at only one stick where most use three. I'll provide the pictures once its fine tuned and tested, and report how it holds up once I start using it.

I think I am going to run with Pro's design just because it is so simple and looks to be the cheapest. when you said you ran the factory bolt that is kind of what I thought you did(cutting the part where the bolt goes threw down).

I cleaned up everything a few days ago so I might be able to get something done this week...it's amazing how much goo came off all this stuff

thanks for the help!

:flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2: :flipoff2::flipoff2::flipoff2::mad3:

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e258/mikes1988pos/IMG_0302.jpg

I spy a nawz bottle :laughing:

fo' shizzle :D


I think I am going to run with Pro's design just because it is so simple and looks to be the cheapest. when you said you ran the factory bolt that is kind of what I thought you did(cutting the part where the bolt goes threw down).

Cheap, and very effective, it works great. Also ridiculously simple to do...a drunken monkey could pull it off. Which is about the level that I fabricate at :homer:

I got most of it done today. the only difference is you have a divorced unit and mine is married so the linkage is a little different. also I used the factory 205 shifter and a factory shifter for a married D21 which I think worked to my advantage. I still got some work to do on the actual shift levers to make them clear each other and I got to find my large pack of various pins to connect the outside linkage.

total cost = $0
total fab time = 3-4 hours(including time to chase my son away from suff in the garage)

I got some pic's but no star so I will try to find a host and get some up.

here is a link to where I got some pictures of my shifters:

http://www.broncoii4x4.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=2441&p=16056#p16056

I finaly got everything done a day or two ago. I know I am slow....sorry about the wait....