Welcome to the next installment of the

Topic of the Week

This week, we're going to talk about on-board air systems.

There are three easily identifiable types of OBA systems.

1. Belt driven (typically a converted AC pump)
2. Electrically driven (QuikAir, for example)
3. Compressed gas (CO2 canister)

What do you have on board?
Would you do it again?
What would you make sure to include on your next system?
Anything you did that wasn't necessary?

I went the Powertank route and although it's fast and holds a large vollume of air the thing has a few major flaws.
First of all it can run out, so on long trips I have to make sure I refill it.
Secondly it's a PITA to find a place to fill it(at least where I'm from). I've resorted to filling it in Rancho(Salon Fire Control) when I'm up that way.
Third is the cost. I go through a lot of CO2 in a season, probably over $100 worth(ouch!).
The pluses about it are it's portability, speed, and to a lesser extent weight(about 28LBS total).
Now that being said I still plan on adding a belt driven York for under the hood. No it's not as fast but it doesn't run out and it never needs to be refilled. Once the initial investment is made on the system all it costs to run is the gas your engine is burning while at idle.
Would I go with CO2 again? Maybe.
I sure do like how fast it is.

Jes

I gutted the A/C on my YJ. I hooked up an air filter and an oiler in line with the stock compressor, then stuffed a little 2 gallon tank under the battery. I've heard the stock compressors aren't as good as a York - why? And where to get a better pressure switch? I'm using a big unit designed for a shop compressor. I'd like to get a little one that threads right into a fitting.
It's held up for a couple years now. I wouldn't want to air a bunch of people up all at once - it would probably burn up.

I ended up with a York system. It is a 10.2 CFM unit. It runs off the alternator pulley via a Brad Kilby kit. From there, I went into a general trap type filter and branched from there into the storage tanks and into another coalescing filter to make sure the air is clean for the ARB's. I use a regulator after the coalescing filter to adjust the pressure.

I probably didn't need braided hose and stainless tubing, but it is easier for me to work with.

I would go with the same type system again.

I pickup up the compressors at Pick-N-Pull for about $20 each. I have a spare just in case. Here's a pick from the installation.

What years and models had good Yorks to look for?
Ive heard older fords?

4-1sec conversion:
Go to harbor freight and buy 4- clamp ons for your valves. then buy some hose and fittings. make a hose that connects all 4 tires to one hose, then run a regulator to the end of the hose. Air down? just turn the dial and all 4 tires drop to 15psi or what ever you select on your acurate pressure gauge. Ari up? Hook up yoru pressure then dial in the desired street pressure.

Best is this hose system will work with co2 or OBA. Cheep and REALY acurate.

I also like it because with a locked straight axle even tire pressure on the street is important to go straight, this air up will ensure your even on both sides for the trip home.

Have fun.:D

Originally posted by ashmanjeepXJ


4-1sec conversion:
Go to harbor freight and buy 4- clamp ons for your valves. then buy some hose and fittings. make a hose that connects all 4 tires to one hose, then run a regulator to the end of the hose. Air down? just turn the dial and all 4 tires drop to 15psi or what ever you select on your acurate pressure gauge. Ari up? Hook up yoru pressure then dial in the desired street pressure.

Best is this hose system will work with co2 or OBA. Cheep and REALY acurate.

I also like it because with a locked straight axle even tire pressure on the street is important to go straight, this air up will ensure your even on both sides for the trip home.

Have fun.:D
This won't work for a lot of people because we use different pressures front and rear.

I have run CO2 bottles, electric compressors, and engine driven compressors. Currently I have a York compressor run off my alternator, and it is by far the best onboard air system I have ever used. The CO2 worked well, but didn't last very long and was an expensive PITA to fill up. The electric compressors sucked in every way possible. The York has the output of the CO2 (I run air tools off it all the time), but never has to be refilled.

I have a York setup. ashman, 80's model Volvo cars have the perfect York compressors, they are the F210 models. I got mine for $20 locally...

I run this thing at around 150 PSI when airing up tires and it's plenty FAST. I kick it down to around 90 - 100 PSI when running air tools. I have a 4.5 gal tank mounted under the tub and I built my front bumper to double as a 1 gal air tank with a quick disconnect on top...

http://a6.cpimg.com/image/34/A6/8766516-13a0-02000180-.jpg

I built my own bracket for the York 'cause I'm a cheap bastard. Then I took an idler pulley off a junk car and pressed the bearing out of the center of it, then welded that to my existing alternator pulley. Again, just because I'm a cheap bastard and the idler pulley didn't cost me anything...

http://a7.cpimg.com/image/BF/2F/8342207-f360-02000120-.jpg

Would I do it again?? Hell yeah!! :flipoff2:

Dave

I got my pressure switch from a company called Brake Systems here in Portland (brakes for big rigs). I believe it is 90-125 psi and is about the size of a quarter (only thicker) and has a standard NPT fitting. The best part was it was only like $30. Should be able to find these elsewhere at places that sell parts for big rigs.

Great Topic!

I'm in the midst of an OBA setup, and I've been thinking about the four tire air-up/air-down setup.

I'm not sure if the four tire setup would work. In theory it's all good, and it the Jeep was on jackstands it would work just fine, but what about weight distribution, I suppose if you were on level ground, with 50/50 front to rear and side to side it would funtion as intended, but if there is more weight on one tire, won't that one end up low on pressure? Pull the valve cores on two tires, on front and one back, and connect them via an air hose from stem to stem with a tee and valve in the middle, release the valve and.... I bet the heavy end goes flat first. Or, let all the air out of one tire, then connect it to a full one, the air should balance the two tires at close to half the pressure in the full tire, minus the volume of the hose, but I sould bet that the tire with more wieght on it will end up with lower pressure.

Anyway, back to OBA

I scored a stock type Sanden compressor for my 2.5 YJ for nothing, and it bolts to my stock bracket, so I put it on and ran a new longer belt to it. I like Kilby's bracket, and I have a 10.5ci York somewhere, so I was thinking of running both. They both would need an air filter, an the Sanden would need an intake oiler, then one way valves out of each, teed together, pressure switch, oil filter with unloader ported back to the intake oiler, manifold with oulet to the 5 gallon tank under my frame, and maybe a hose with a quick connect for the addition of smaller piggy back tanks. Back at the manifold, I think I would want another filter before a series of hoses running to the ends of the Jeep for tool use and air ups. Of course there would be a master control switch in the cab, as well as a pressure guage, and pop-offs set to 160psi, with the comp set to come on at 100psi and off at 150psi.

Okay, that being said, I have room for a few small tanks here and there throughout the Jeep, and the 5 gallon under the frame, but with two compressors, how much storage do I need? Also, I need to separate the oil coming out of the Sanden, plus the York will prolly put out a little oil too, is oil in the tank bad? I know I don't want it in my tires, but will it hurt the tanks? I could just run a oil/water filter between the tank circut and the tool lines, I think condensate from the tanks needs to be filtered before it gets into my tires too.

I know most would say ditch the Sanden, or only run the Sanden, but I've got both, and the room for both, so why not. I plan on also running a 2nd alternator off the v-belt that will run the York of my stock alt. Will my 2.5 be able to get off idle with all this crap running off it?

im using a york system.. it came with my engine.. damn near all wagoneers had them.. since most come with a/c... and it works great..

so its in the stock set up.. for inlet side.. i have a inline oiler.. with a filter attached to it.. this keeps the compressor oiled.. the outlet side i have an oil collector.. with a pressure switch 90-140.. its adjustable.. so alittle more $$ think it was around $45.. this cuts the york on/off while working.... to that its hooked up to a air tank i got off of a big rig.. used for their brakes.. this was free for me.. but im sure you could get one at a yard.. its fits perfectly under the tub and just between the frame rails of my YJ frame as soon as the tub rises up.. its mounted.. the good thing about this tank.. it has like 8 fittings on it.. soooo.. i have the inlet coming in.. then one line going to the rear of the jeep.. and one line going to the front... where there are quick disconnects.. then i have one coming right off of the tank.. i might get frisking and run a line to each side.. but its not any where's near the top of my to do list.. i would say the tank is roughly 3 gallons.. with my coil hose.. thats about 40' long.. i can do tires on a jeep two vehicles away.. i also have a pressure guage in the dash..

only problem is i now have to oil my tools every so often.. since i have the collector on there.. no biggie..

all in all i would say i have about $150-200 in this... which doesnt include my el cheapo air tool set from Sam's club.. but i have been way more than pleased with it..

would i do it again.. hell ya! and i try to encourage all my jeep buds to do this.. just for the tires its well worth it..

My vote is for a york oba setup. I pulled mine out of an 80's volvo station wagon. The volvo's typically have the 10cfm compressors, I've heard the ford's only have the 8cfm version (unconfirmed). But I know you can find them in 80's ford broncos and various other cars.

I would strongly recommend a spare (mostly for parts). My first one worked great except one of the piston rings was leaking a lot of oil so I replaced it with parts from my spare.

Airing up is quick

My system has is setup similar to Kilby's recommended system, but I bought most of the parts locally. I think my total cost was in the ball park of $150 or so.

Bob

What do you have on board?

York F210R, (kilby KE2000 bracket)
caddy electric (backup)
2.5 gallon tank
Oh, did I mention I kept the factory a/c :grinpimp:
Would you do it again?

Yup.

What would you make sure to include on your next system?

This one is still a work in progress.

So far I'm very pleased and have no complaints.

On the "todo list"
- Front quick connect -- I only have a rear quick connect at this time
- return line from oil filter bowl to the york
- permanant switches -- I'm using some toggles mounted to a piece of plastic, attached to my console with double stick tape. supposed to be just for one trip... back in September:bender:
- gauge inside the cab and an indicator light showing the compessor is running. -- it is pretty quiet with an inlet filter
- copper tube between the compressor and the tank -- I don't trust the cheap air hose I got at costco.

Anything you did that wasn't necessary?

Necessary? alot wasn't necessary but it is what I wanted.

Other notes:
for starters, nasvik has a great writeup on www.jeepshots.com

I plumbed my air lines so they are modular and quckly reconfigurable if one part fails. The goal was to have air for the ARBs if at all possible. If the york or the main supply to the tank, or the supply from the tank, or the tank fails, I can run the ARBs from my caddy as a last resort.


My oil filter is rated to 250F. -- since things get hot, I think this was a good investment.

Here are some pics and capitions on the pics : http://community.webshots.com/album/28686243xfTkSEcTdt

Devil dog, sounds to me like you are running your lines directly from the tank, without a filter between the tank and quick connect, how to you keep from pumping condensate into your tires? Have you had any water in your lines? Or is this not a huge problem? I'm in northern Michigan, so I can't imagine a tank would not have condensation. The York compressor has a seperate oil resevior, one of it's main advantages over the Sanden and other rotary pumps that use the refrigerant as a lubricant, but both you and Dan-H seem to be running intake oilers into the compressor, why? Have you had oiling problems? I was under the impression that the York compressors did not need lubrication above the rings.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
both you and Dan-H seem to be running intake oilers into the compressor, why?

re-read my post. Oil filter

Hmm...coulda sworn....oh damn, I was seeing things, sorry, wel Devil dog does anyway. Sounds like your York puts out a bit of oil into the system, do you have it mounted horizontal? I've heard they tend to leak more that way. How often do you need to drain the filter bowl? I assume I will need to quite regularly with the Sanden compressor and intake oiler, I'd like to find a filter with an automatic unloader port or something to cycle the oil back into the compressor's intake oiler. I like the idea of using a high temp filter. I've seen some guys using high temp, high pressure hoses after the compressor, does the compressor exhaust port put out that much heat?

I guess you didn't look at the pics or you would have seen how it was mounted :flipoff2:

anyway, a week or so ago, I ran the york for about an hour or so more or less continuously. ( only a couple of short beer breaks). I was sanding down rough edges of a redwood dock we had just built in a location that had no power, using an old worn air sander that was *not* efficient with the air.

I had not drained the filter before I went up so I already had a weekend of wheeling, and filling up tires etc before the hour or so of full-on use with the air sander. after this, I had about 3-4 oz in the filter. Not bad IMO.

But, with a setup like nasvik has, I could have ust opened a valve and returned the oil back where it belongs in the sump of the york.

Whoops again, I went to look at them the first time but boss walked in and when I got back to it I forgot. Yeah it's 8:00pm here and I'm still at work, hard to get anything done when you spend all day jerking off on the internet. Super clean install by the way.

Originally posted by 4Bangler
hard to get anything done when you spend all day jerking off on the internet.

LOL, sounds like several people here ( yes me included) :bender:

I just run a quick-air-II with an ARB pressure switch to keep it in the 80-100 pressure range. It is simple and pretty easy to instal but it won't run tools like the AC compressers will.

I run the york also. Here is a few pix:

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/pfeca57497b7cbfafd32fb40665f9ef1f/fdb7fc34.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p57737a240005ea236fb3b18af8cfdc51/fdb79e14.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p7839e62fd3e7986587bcab8d6c573d03/fdb79e15.jpg

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid20/p17637744c058d52e7ca0188027bee197/fdb79e23.jpg

Snatch is that a scuba/welding tank? I have a scuba and want to know volume. Is it enough to run tools? I got a York (I work right next to a Volva Specialist), a mount for my 304, and 2 scuba tanks free. I want to give the other tank to a friend if I do not need it.

I plan on a manifold, air brake lines, and all the other necessaries.

You work next to a vulva specialist? How to I get that job? Sorry, the post starting off with Snatch got me distracted.

That looks like the same semi truck air brake tank I have, they pretty much give them away at big rig wrecking yards. I like the in dash pressure guage, better than the stupid 4wd light, can't get it to light up when my hubs are locked in.

York w/ 7 gal tank
and have it setup for ARB (npt/bpst adapter)
I replaced all the blue air hose in the pic w/ goodyear, the blue stuff got hot and blew off (not the arb blueline). I also replaced hose clamps w/ push on fittings. I took out all the Teflon tape and redid it all w/ locktite pneumatic fitting sealer, works MUCH better. it does not get hot if I just idle, if I kick up the rpms I do get oil in the oil coalescing filter. Its my best mod yet.

oh yeah I used Universal quick connectors front and back

http://rps4wd.com/kw/oba/york.JPG

I will be doing it anyway but besides running less oil in it (so it doesn't spit it out) are there any drawbacks to mounting a york sideways?

Originally posted by OverTech



'cause I'm a cheap bastard.
Dave

Really nothing wrong with being a cheap bastard every once in a while.

I wish I could afford to be a cheap bastard, but TIME = MONEY. I have limited time.

Originally posted by orbitcat
Really nothing wrong with being a cheap bastard every once in a while.

I wish I could afford to be a cheap bastard, but TIME = MONEY. I have limited time.

I have all kinds of time, but not enough know-how...

Dave

oil fix for yorks (http://members.cox.net/cglabe1/Air/OilFix.html)


oh yah,not my page.

well mine is mounted horizontally... thats the way they come stock on amc v-8's... plus only god knew when the last time it was run.. so i squirted some oil in mine before i first used it.. and i noticed a ton of it coming out the air hose... mmmmm..
so i then put a drain plug in my tank.. and then the oiler and collector on it.. ran it awhile.. and i havent had anything else come out of it yet.. my collector doesnt really get alot of oil in it.. hard to say.. i never kept track of it.. its nothing like after everytime i use it.. its usually every 8th or so time.. depending how long i use it... when im using it for tools.. i use the hand throttle to bump up the idle..

i just have one of those big rig brake tanks.. it does everything very well.. it seems to be alittle larger than that one in the picture on top of the engine.. its about 6" round.. and it just fits between the frame rails.. 28" or so long..

Originally posted by gnrrpreacher
Snatch is that a scuba/welding tank? I have a scuba and want to know volume. Is it enough to run tools? I got a York (I work right next to a Volva Specialist), a mount for my 304, and 2 scuba tanks free. I want to give the other tank to a friend if I do not need it.

I plan on a manifold, air brake lines, and all the other necessaries.

That is an actual air tank that I painted and added 4 fittings to. It was out of one of those compressors with the 2 small air tanks. It runs tools fine, I can fire off 4 lugs before the york kicks in. Use hydraulic line for the air hose, it is rated for like 600 degrees & 3000psi. That is what I use.

Originally posted by R O
oil fix for yorks (http://members.cox.net/cglabe1/Air/OilFix.html)


oh yah,not my page.

I heard that this fix causes high pressures in the york causing it to break. I think that there has to be a vent somewhere. I could be wrong though.:p

How much are you all paying to have CO2 tanks filled?
How often do you go through them?

I have bulk CO2 at my brewery (Beer and CO2 for sale) and am thinking about ponying up to a filling station for CO2, but I am trying to justify the cost of the pump set up ($800 or so)

I buy CO2 at 28 cents a pound and I thinking of selling it at 50 cents...

So it would take me roughly 850 filles to make some money/recover costs (Not including what I use)

This won't be a get rich scheme, but I have the same problems as others getting tanks filled here in Colorado.

I used the stock (axial?) compressor that was on my Mustang 5.0, then hooked up a pressure switch off one of my old work air compressors with a bypass on-off switch.
I ran the intake of the compressor to the valve cover breather then to the engine's air cleaner-this way all I have to do is rev the piss outta the engine to get some oil in the compressor.
Every so often I squirt some Maxima pre-mix oil in the compressor to keep it lubed up like I like.
I haven't run any oil or water filters in it yet and probably won't. It is really dry where I live and wheel, and a little oil in my tools and wheels doesn't bother me.
I don't have a tank as of yet, but I am planning to build one out of 2 or 3 sections of 4" Sched 80 Edison riser duct mounted between the frame rails in the rear of the Jeep.

great topic guys...

anyone out there already figure out how to mount a york up to a buick 225? I've already added power steering from a 231, but I've never seen a york on a 231 so I'm assuming :rolleyes: the brackets are going to be custom. I'd love to have OBA...........

I'm drunk........... :beer: :rolleyes: are you?

If anyone is curious on how to put a Sanden in the incredibly tight engine compartment of the 318-equipped ZJ, I've done it. Basically, you pull the dipstick tube aft a little, and you can sandwich a compressor in there. I don't have a formal writeup per se, but I do have some pictures. Email me at racecadet@yahoo.com if you want some pics. One thing I'll probably forget to mention later is that you have to grind off the lower front right mounting tab, or it will rub on the stock serpentine. :)

There is are a few custom brackets to make, and the tensioning is tough, but it's doable and works great.

Bob

Question for the gurus: Does anyone have a site on the net where you can get specific sizes of V-belts in 1/4-1/2" increments? I'm about a bee's dick away from everything with this compressor (hood, alternator, and battery!), and it would help GREATLY if I could get a specific vbelt. I've even gone to the electric motor service places to find one, but no dice.

Trango -

http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=v-groove+belts

http://www.gizmology.net/pulleysbelts.htm

I am in the process of doing an OBA with a stock A/C compressor. I am also making a rear bumper that I plan to use as an air tank.

Simple question: will 2x4 1/8 wall hold up to 125psi?

I'll probably try it no matter responses I get here, but it would be nice to know what to expect.

My first rear bumper is 2x4x1/8 and it has a big tear in it from an argument with a rock, I would hate to see what would have happened with 125 - 150psi inside. I'm using 3/6 wall on revision #2

I have a flat fender with a 225 V6 with power steering, Here are my questions:
1. Where do I mount the York compressor? Not much room.
2. Has anyone used the Chrysler RV-2 pump instead of the York? It is a V-twin and should put out more CFM. I have one and was thinking of using it, if I could get it to fit.
3. I also have a PTO winch with an extra output, Anyone use a PTO to run the compressor?

Thanks
Dan

Originally posted by 4Bangler
My first rear bumper is 2x4x1/8 and it has a big tear in it from an argument with a rock, I would hate to see what would have happened with 125 - 150psi inside. I'm using 3/6 wall on revision #2

Compressed air is NOT a bomb. If your bumper had been pressurized to 150 PSI, you would have heard a loud "PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSsssssssssss" resulting in a bumper that is no longer pressurized to 150 PSI. Nothing more.

Dave

Originally posted by OverTech


Compressed air is NOT a bomb. If your bumper had been pressurized to 150 PSI, you would have heard a loud "PSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSsssssssssss" resulting in a bumper that is no longer pressurized to 150 PSI. Nothing more.

Dave


That's what I figured. Plus, I won't leave it pressurized all the time, and certainly not in a situation where I might tear a hole in it. I will have a dash mounted switch, and when I am getting close to the road, I will flip the switch and have a full tank pretty quickly to air up. The rest of the time I will let the pressure out.

So... Just sitting there, no impacts or collisions, 2x4 1/8wall will hold up to 125 PSI right? Seems like it should, since at my work we have a couple hundred feet of 1.5" PVC that is running 125 PSI.

I have a york on my YJ.I used an old refrigeration recovery tank for an air tankwith braided stainless refrigeration hose from the pump to the tank.The pressure switch is from a closeout place,simple two wire on and off 85/120 i believe that was less than $1.The most expensive thing was the serpentine clutch but it was a lot simpler to setup that way.Still have about $200 in the whole thing.
I would definitely di it again.

Originally posted by BrettM
That's what I figured. Plus, I won't leave it pressurized all the time, and certainly not in a situation where I might tear a hole in it. I will have a dash mounted switch, and when I am getting close to the road, I will flip the switch and have a full tank pretty quickly to air up. The rest of the time I will let the pressure out.

So... Just sitting there, no impacts or collisions, 2x4 1/8wall will hold up to 125 PSI right? Seems like it should, since at my work we have a couple hundred feet of 1.5" PVC that is running 125 PSI.

Yes, 1/8" will hold up just fine. That's what most air compressor tanks are made of...

I do leave mine pressurized all the time because I'm too lazy to let the air out. Like I said, even if it gets a hole in it while pressurized, the worse thing that happens is all your air leaks out... I have both of my air tanks on quick disconnects so that if one gets a hole, I can disconnect it and still use the other...

Dave

I had the factory clutch machined to fit the serp. belt
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/shoreside/813/oba/york.jpg

I'm not running a perminent tank........
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/shoreside/813/oba/compressor_shot.jpg

I just hook this one up when I need it.
http://www.fortunecity.com/marina/shoreside/813/oba/tank_2.jpg

How much did the machining cost?

Have you noticed any increased wear on the serp belt from running the ribbed side of the belt on a smooth pully?

machining was free, done by a friend.

wear seems normal

Some info about York compressors and where to find them. I did a little research, and this should be accurate. You can get the good York compressor out of a 83-90 Volvo 740 GLE or 760 GLE with the 2.3L turbo 4 cylinder motor. Or you can get a remaned or new one from CSK (checker /shucks /kragen) for about $120 bucks. Part numbers

AC - Delco 15-28

OR

Factory (sea air) air 57057 reman w/o clutch
Factory (sea air) air 58057 new w/o clutch


Ben

My onboard air (http://www.johnsoffroad.com/air.html)

I did mine with a factory Saden. My TJ did not come with AC but I was able to pick up a compresson on ebay for $50. I had to buy a new belt and I was in.

I did burn up one and if I burn up another I will buy a york. Back when I did mine the Kilby brackets were like $200 now they are much more resonable.

Back when diving was one of my main hobbies... I had multiple tanks and spare stages. There are low and high pressure ports on the stages... so simply used the port typically used for the BC inflator hose and modified the hose end to hold a standard air coupler. I originally bought one of the fancy SCUBA shop adapters using the inflator hose chuck which I promptly broke... it's a POS waste of $$.

80cu in tank at 3000psi:eek: in the back of the jeep
Nice clean dry air
Inconvenient to refill depending upon location $5-8 a pop.
Must have a C-card to get filled
Diving equipment is expensive
SCUBA tanks require annual visual inspections and 5yr hydro tests
My tanks LUXFER are no longer fillable due to some safety reg recently.
:mad:

I now have CO2... standard 20lb tanks with a fixed pressure gaugeless regulator from Seals Gasses... somewhere in Kalifornia. I also have an adjustable gauge for my beer... my other hobby. Again, hobbies crossing over... so I had the CO2 already for kegging my homebrew... doubles as an onboard air source. It's not pretty like a powertank so I just swab at my local welding supply... I've swapped on trips as well... Moab has a welding shop for example.
CO2 works similar to the SCUBA setup
Their both heavy and must be secured well in the rig.
I can take homebrew on trips!
It's portable... I have drug CO2 bottle to a rig that I couldn't get to with my rig etc.
Refills/Swaps ain't bad... $10... last longer than the SCUBA did too.
I'm not sure my regulator is the best as it will freeze up depending upon the temperature and humidity.
It does take up lots of space.


I have gutted my AC in my 4.0L 93 Wrangler... and plan to convert the compressor for OBA... but I get tired head thinking about getting the fittings and stuff needed to make it happen. :flipoff2: ... basically to lazy to make it happen knowing I've got other things to work on and can always throw the CO2 in the back.

Everyone I've known with those little electric compressors cusses them... they just plain suck.

I use a belt driven - I never used the A/C on my TJ so I ripped it all out and re-used the compressor - obviously its a sanden type. Total cost was about $160. I dont have a tank so it has some limitations right now - definitely somethign I'm going to add (thinking dual 2.5 gals). If I set the hand throttle to 3K I can run impact wrenches comfortably - not at full speed, but good enough to remove lug nuts fairly quickly (definitely quicker then a cross wrench). I would DEFINITELY do it again. If anyone's interested in what I did; http://www.trucksoffroad.com/techdescription.php?id=15

I did the standard Sanden conversion: intake filter, oiler, compressor, filter, check valve, pressure switch (ARB), tank, ARB's. I love it, suggest it, and would do it again & again!

Now my OBA question: I had my front bumper tapped as my tank, while stretching the front-end I think it might not make it back on. That said, I really want a tank, doesn't need to be huge but some sort of tank. I realize shops run PVC from the compressor to the outlets, so I assume PVC would be a suitable, light weight tank if it can be located in a protected area. your thoughts...

i used a sadan compressor for my oba so i'll put my two cents in. that sucker got hot quick. after about 10 minutes of running it'd get so hot it'd blow the discharge line off the back of the compressor. it even melted the oil serparator filter. if i had to do it again i'd use a york and some high pressure/temperature hose.

for an air tank i used an old fire extighisher i got from a fire extinghisher service shop. they had so many there i got my choice for next to nothing.

Here's mine.. http://longhornoffroad.com/pages/writeups/tech/yorkoba/yorkoba.htm

I haven't seen anyone with a setup like mine-- i'm using a sanden for my A/C and a York for the OBA.. oh yea, both on my 4banger
:flipoff2:

Time to drag this back up....

Grinch is the closest I've read so far, but is using a-typical AC. I'd have no objection to losing the AC to gain the OBA. I've heard mixed info on using a waggy bracket on an early YJ 2.5L. Some say it works, and some say it doesn't. I'd be running v-belt, maybe ditching the stock AC compressor.
Anyone done this? OBA.com is worthless for anything that doesn't use a serpentine belt.

great topic guys...

anyone out there already figure out how to mount a york up to a buick 225? I've already added power steering from a 231, but I've never seen a york on a 231 so I'm assuming :rolleyes: the brackets are going to be custom. I'd love to have OBA...........

I'm drunk........... :beer: :rolleyes: are you?

69CJ,
Yep I was running a York OBA setup on my 68 Jeep. I had to make my own brackets. I had broke my alt bracket again so I went to a u-pull it yard and started looking. Well I found a Buick V-6 that had a metal alt/A/C bracket combo. The A/C part was setup for a rotory type compressor but it was reallypretty easy to build a mount for the York that would work with the bracket. There are pictures of what I did on my web site.
Hope this helps & good luck.

What do you have on board?

I am running a Kilby bracket to mount my York compressor onto my engine. I also still have stock A/C. I need that where I live every now & then.
I have not gotten the swich done yet, the air tank is still sitting in my shed. But then I got deployed to Iraq so that cut into my time. Once I am up and able to walk again I'll finish off my OBA. There are pictures on my site of what I have done so far.


Would you do it again?

Yes I would and yes I did. I had this same type of system on my CJ.


What would you make sure to include on your next system?

The one thing I don't have yet is a check valve and I will install one here pretty soon. Everything else that is on this system was also on my other system.

Anything you did that wasn't necessary?

Nothing that I can think of.

As I have already said I had this system on my old CJ also. I had to make my own brackets to get it to work. I have had OBA on my last 2 Jeeps & my Suzuki before that. I would not leave home without it!! :)

great topic, keep the info coming! :smokin:

Does anyone know where i can get a York bracket to 4.0 in my 94 XJ while retaining the stock Sanden for AC? I realize i'll need to relocate the Batt.

Kilby still does not list one for use with AC. I'v heard that a TJ bracket MAY work?

I dont have the time or equipt to build my own, any help would be appreciated.

FWIW, i pulled my York 210 from a J10.

oil fix for yorks (http://members.cox.net/cglabe1/Air/OilFix.html)


oh yah,not my page.

I heard that this fix causes high pressures in the york causing it to break. I think that there has to be a vent somewhere. I could be wrong though.:p

So has anyone done the oil fix thing????????? I also head about the pressure build up when plugging the hole.I vented the fill hole on the York, but never lost much oil from it so I never did the oil fix thing.

So who has done the oil fix?????
Did you vent the case?????
How long have you run it this way?????
Any problems after???

Another good source for orks are AMC wagons. I got mine out of a 79 AMC Concord and its a 210. AMC replaced the york tag with there own tag so the only way to figure out which one it is is to remove the clutch which is easy.

I planned to go with a York, so I ordered the Kilby bracket. Yorks seem to be kinda hard to find around here. The few I found were either froze up or $100+ and I still had to pull them myself. I searched every junkyard I could find within about 100 miles of home and was ready to give up and order a reman compressor. I finally stopped at an AC shop to price a rebuilt unit and the owner let me raid his core bin. He doesn't get paid for York cores so he let me have all I could find. I found a York 210 and a Tecumseh. They are both about 10.3 ci, so I took both home and bolted in the Tecumseh just to be different. The bolt patterns are the same and I'm using a serp belt clutch from a York on it. I'm using a pressure switch to turn on at 100psi and off at 120psi. I also found a tank, but it's not installed yet.

One source of tanks not mentioned so far:

Expired CO2 fire extenguisher bottles. They are already tapped for pipe thread, and fairly easy to come by, even free. Most the time they are decerted due to age.

Does anyone know of any air tanks that will mount to an empty ABS tray? I don't think I need anything large, I'm still running on 31"s and plan on telling everyone else to find their own air. :D

<Newbie question / flame suit on>

does anybody have pics of a smallblock chevy with a 87-88 pulley config (1 vbelt and 1 grooved belt running a york. thanks

So has anyone done the oil fix thing????????? I also head about the pressure build up when plugging the hole.I vented the fill hole on the York, but never lost much oil from it so I never did the oil fix thing.

So who has done the oil fix?????
Did you vent the case?????
How long have you run it this way?????
Any problems after???


I did the fix, but I've only had mine for about a month. I'm also running a "load genie" unloader. The most I've used it is to air 8 35" tires from 12psi to 32. I'm also curious to know if other poeple have had problems with this oil fix.

I'm hearing that Scouts have the big yorks, and they are mounted horizontal.

On PVC tanks, my brother uses sch 40 PVC to make air cannons. His design uses compressed air as it is more consistent. Anyway, he's run them over 100 psi with generally no failures. The only problems have happened when the stuff wasn't glued well. Any more cannons will be made with sch 80. If it bursts, it will just tear and rip open, rather than shattering with shrapnel flying like sch 40.

Back when diving was one of my main hobbies...

80cu in tank at 3000psi:eek: in the back of the jeep
Nice clean dry air
Inconvenient to refill depending upon location $5-8 a pop.
Must have a C-card to get filled
Diving equipment is expensive
SCUBA tanks require annual visual inspections and 5yr hydro tests
My tanks LUXFER are no longer fillable due to some safety reg recently.
:mad:

You can get a compressed air tank for paintball, as small as 30ci and as big as 114ci, 3000 psi or 4500 psi. They don't require annual inspections or any special card to get filled, but they do require 5 year hydro. Most are aluminum/carbon fiber wrap and are pretty light. Output is typically set to either 800 psi or 400 psi, but regulators are available to knock that down to under 100. This is a pic of a paintball reg made to attach directly to the tank and fill tires. You can run HPA or co2 through this one.

A new 88cu 4500 will run at least $200, and the reg in the pic is another $100. 20 oz co2 tanks are much cheaper at $15 to $25, depending on where you get them.

This is what I did, pretty much just read what most did when I searched! and copied it!

I hadn't used my AC in about a year, so going with the stock AC pump was my choice. After mud runs I get over 5 lbs of mud/leaves/pine needles jammed between my condensor and the radiator, so I wanted the condensor out!

But, on a 2000 TJ, I was able to just cut the factory hoses and run one to the oiler/filter, and the other to the water/oil separator/manifold.

I was running a cheap 12v compressor, so I had some of the fittings already, and a buddy owed me a favor, so I got the air oiler/filter/reg from him. I welded up a box to fit where my gas tank used to be, tested to 190psi. Switch on the dash. Pressure switch, 120psi off 90psi on with unloader.

I only just finished the wiring, pics were taken just after I mounted the stuff and tested it once. But now its wired. I have used it a dozen times or so, testing it to see if it will fail or what needs to be fixed. I can run an impact, but I haven't tried for extended periods. I usually just use a nozzle to blow out vacuum cleaner filters (renovating our house) for my testing. But it kicks the crap out of my little pancake compressor (air nailer)!

Goal: To fill up my tires and run an impact in emergency on the trail, blow out dirty components, reseat beads etc... I'm very happy with it now, we'll see how long it all lasts!

http://www.123.net/~lgottler/Myjeeppics/OBA%20Project/Mainshot.jpg

http://www.123.net/~lgottler/Myjeeppics/OBA%20Project/Lubeshot.JPG

http://www.123.net/~lgottler/Myjeeppics/OBA%20Project/Sideshot.JPG

. I took out all the Teflon tape and redid it all w/ locktite pneumatic fitting sealer, works MUCH better.
http://rps4wd.com/kw/oba/york.JPG

Did you use loctite 545? The one that is about $25 for a 50ml bottle?

Preach:

I've done two York conversions. The units were designed to be mounted vertically or sideways, at least when used as a/c compressors. I don't believe there are any drawbacks to sideways mounting as air compressors. Give it a go if a side mount would work better for you.

What is the best method to oil a saden compressor?

Any part number for the kilby york braket for a 2.5L YJ???

Yes but of course a three way (air source/ valve, left tire, right tire) would work for all situations. HF has two versions, one is a "T" the other is a conical multiport.

has anyone made their own pully? i dont feel like dumping 55 bucks for something im pretty shure i can weld up- im just hafing a hard time trying to fund the right v belt pully to use on the factory nippon denso alt pully, and tryng to figure out how to center it w/o a lathe-

I saw someone else mentioned the RV2 V-twin Mopar AC compressor. These things look like a little two cylinder engine. AND should pump air like crazy. I have one, and tried making it into a air compressor. It didn't work all that well, and i can't figure out why. I noticed there was a little valve in the intake side that i figureed what a check valve, but apparently it's not and I read somewhere it needs to be removed.
I also ran into a problem with a lot of the oil from the crankcase going thru the system past the pistons somehow. The only thing i can figure from that is that i either put to much oil in it... the rings are shot... or that the pressure from the crankcase not being vented is doing it. When i pulled the pump all apart, the cylider walls don't look gouged up, and i figured it must be one of the other two reasons. When it was working, the pump did make lots of pressure... just took forever to do it.
Anyone used one of these to make a air compressor yet...? If you did could we hear some details. Is anyone else interested in it even at all. ?

I run an electric compressor from a 12v Puma portable compressor. I mounted it under my hood and mounted a 3 gallon tank on the driver's side of the rear driveshaft. I've dinged it a couple times, but nothing serious.

I can run an impact wrench off of it and air up a 33" tire from 10 psi to 33 psi in about 45 seconds. For the cost, I'm pretty happy.

I'd like to try a York setup and probably will in my next build.

Here is a look at my OBA setup. I run a Volvo compressor (York) that a buddy gave me. I used the "BLING" copper tubing fot the compressor for heat and all, plus it made for a clean install. I used all of the electrical from the factory air to turn the compressor onn and off. Just put a relay in the fuse box for the air, hooked up the pressure switch for the OBA to the wires for the low pressure switch for the air conditioning system, and put a switch grounding a couple wires under the dash to switch the system on. When the air is turned on, the engine even bumps the RPM a little. It also made for a clean install. I used a Kilby manifold, air brake fittings and air line, and put a gauge there as well.


235730

The Oil filter is mounted on the fire wall, with one line going to the tank in the back and the other going to the air manafold. The air is split off after the backflow valve.

235731

The air tank is mounted underneath the floor in front of the gas tank. Nice place with no clearance issues.

235733

There are two air chucks on the Jeep. One on the rear, the other on the front.

235734

Here is a picture of the engine compartment with all of the stuff in one pix.

235735

I have a york 210 with the dual vbelt pulley. I really want to find a serpentine clutch/pulley for it but I am having a locating one. Are you guys buying the pulley from Kilbys? I can't justify $110.00 just for a clutch/pulley. Are there certain models/years that utilise a 210 but come with the serpentine clutch/pulley setup? Ogura and Warner both manufacture serpentine and vbelt pulleys for Yorks compressors, but I have only found one supplier and they don't have much.

It’s not a York, but it fits my need for an “all in one” unit… http://www.buzzardgulch.com/2006Christmas/Christmas2006P4.htm
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/puma89.jpg

Since we're waking the dead, I'll play. Here's mine with the converted saden:

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/1996cc/Jeep/construction/OBAdiagram.jpg

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c307/1996cc/Jeep/construction/DSC03586.jpg

How do ya'll successfully oil your saden?? As you can see, I have the little inline oiler, but the level hasn't dropped after 3-4 uses. I'd hate to burn it up by neglecting a simple fix.

Reading some of the other CO2 posts I guess its about the cost and availability in your area to get filled. I'm running a 20# CO2 tank and I get it filled at a fire exstinguisher place right up the road for $10 when needed. The larger tank lasts plenty long for any trips I've taken and I've never actually run out, though I got down to about 1.5# before the last time I got it filled, but that was from running tools in my garage for a while.

I did the standard Sanden conversion: intake filter, oiler, compressor, filter, check valve, pressure switch (ARB), tank, ARB's. I love it, suggest it, and would do it again & again!

Now my OBA question: I had my front bumper tapped as my tank, while stretching the front-end I think it might not make it back on. That said, I really want a tank, doesn't need to be huge but some sort of tank. I realize shops run PVC from the compressor to the outlets, so I assume PVC would be a suitable, light weight tank if it can be located in a protected area. your thoughts...


Do you have a write up on your Sanden set up? Any issues so far?

I went with a york on my tj in the horozontal position, and used an alternator pulley so that my fan belt would be exclusive of the air system. built a custom bracket. it goes though a colescing filter first, then devides to a pressure switch, a quick connect, to my regulator for arb's, and then to my air system for tires. for the air up setup for tires, i put in 2 large electric valves under the hood in line, controlled by a switch outside the grill right behind my winch. I have these plumbed first to a large guage hidden in my grill, then it splits to all 4 corners of my bumpers, so that 4 short hoses will reach each tire, and they wont drag in mud. when you flip the switch one way, one air valve opens up and will let the air out, while you can monitor your pressure with the guage in the grill, till you are down to the pressure you want to run on the trail. when the switch is flipped the other way, it will air all 4 tires up and again you can monitor the pressure from the guage in the grill. this way i never open the hood, and dont have a bunch of hose laying around on the ground, getting muddy. the only thing i would do different is also keep a longer section of hose, so that when needed I would be able to work around the vehicle

Update.

I got my RV2 V-Twin compressor to work. It pumps air like crazy. It can air up 8 38.5x16 boggers from about 5 psi to about 15 psi in about 5 to ten minutes... that's inlcuding the time it takes to drag the hoes to the other tires... on two vehicles.
The compressor I have has made air pressure to about 150 psi... then i shut it off... i am sure it would make more, but i wasn't gonna try it.
What looks like a check valve at the intake... is actually a temperture valve... it's so that when the freon heats up a bit... it slows the flow of the freon down to cool it more.... Rip that out... Otherwise this thing will not pump air very well.
There is a oil passage in this compressor as well... to find the passage, you have to strip the compressor apart... it's very similar to a small 2 cyl 2 stroke. when you get the crankshaft out... look up at the top where the valve passage is... and there is a little hole drilled... I had mine sodered by a local metal shop for 5 bucks.... figure out some way to close that off. The rings on the pistons will still allow a small amout of oil to pass, and oil the system. Don't put too much oil in the crankcase... about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch depth is all that is needed.

The RV2 V-twin compressor can be found in older late 70's Dodge van's and motors homes. It may be found in other older vehicles, but i belive it's exclusive to chrysler... because the tag on mine labeled it made by chrysler. When i checked at the parts store... the compressor could still be purchased rebuilt for about $178 CAD. There was also a seal kit that you can buy for $40 CAD.

It’s not a York, but it fits my need for an “all in one” unit… http://www.buzzardgulch.com/2006Christmas/Christmas2006P4.htm
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e333/knuckelhead/puma89.jpg

:laughing: I bought the same thing like 2 years ago... still works great

Update.

I got my RV2 V-Twin compressor to work. It pumps air like crazy. It can air up 8 38.5x16 boggers from about 5 psi to about 15 psi in about 5 to ten minutes... that's inlcuding the time it takes to drag the hoes to the other tires... on two vehicles.
The compressor I have has made air pressure to about 150 psi... then i shut it off... i am sure it would make more, but i wasn't gonna try it.
What looks like a check valve at the intake... is actually a temperture valve... it's so that when the freon heats up a bit... it slows the flow of the freon down to cool it more.... Rip that out... Otherwise this thing will not pump air very well.
There is a oil passage in this compressor as well... to find the passage, you have to strip the compressor apart... it's very similar to a small 2 cyl 2 stroke. when you get the crankshaft out... look up at the top where the valve passage is... and there is a little hole drilled... I had mine sodered by a local metal shop for 5 bucks.... figure out some way to close that off. The rings on the pistons will still allow a small amout of oil to pass, and oil the system. Don't put too much oil in the crankcase... about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch depth is all that is needed.

The RV2 V-twin compressor can be found in older late 70's Dodge van's and motors homes. It may be found in other older vehicles, but i belive it's exclusive to chrysler... because the tag on mine labeled it made by chrysler. When i checked at the parts store... the compressor could still be purchased rebuilt for about $178 CAD. There was also a seal kit that you can buy for $40 CAD.



Do you have any pics of the set up?

:laughing: I bought the same thing like 2 years ago... still works great


There’s also a regulated port that I tied into my ARB tank/compressor…

1996cc... see pic

I did a nice York OBA setup on my jeep a few months ago.

Here's the complete setup.

I didnt want to have another filter sitting in the system and I figured that this way would get cooler air into the york.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/airbox.jpg

Steel Braided hose. I've heard alot of problems with people blowing their rubber hoses from the compressor.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/york.jpg

I used aluminum tubing to help cool the air down before it hits the vital components.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/enginebay2.jpg

Here's the pressure relief valve (175psi), gauge, on(120)/off(150), quick connect, and a ball valve at the end of the block. I put the ball valve there as a backup. Incase a hose breaks I'll still be able to fill up at the end of the day.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/manifold.jpg

One of the air fittings is in the front driver wheel well. I'm still not sure if this will stay here (still gotta get rubber boot for it too)
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/frontconnect.jpg

The other is in the back (tis here cause I have a pneumatic potato cannon for the jeep :) )
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/rearconnect.jpg

I stuffed a small (1.5-2 gal) tank behind/under the drivers seat. The frame rails/driveshaft are much lower than the tank so I'm not too worried about getting it smacked.
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/tank.jpg

Edit:
So I still have to figure out how to drain the tank. I didnt want a tank with a bung on the bottom as I see it being a weak point if it were to touch some rocks.
I've still gotta get a decent filter onto the system before it hits the manifold.
And I need to figure out a different spot for the front connect in the wheel well. At the time I was running hose I saw a hole there and just threw it there. Heh.

I don't have pictures.... but, there isn't really much to see... it's the V-twin compressor... I know there are pics of it somewhere on pirate i think.
If people were really interested... i might be able to take some... but alas, no star... so i couldn't post them anyways.

I went the Powertank route and although it's fast and holds a large vollume of air the thing has a few major flaws.
First of all it can run out, so on long trips I have to make sure I refill it.
Secondly it's a PITA to find a place to fill it(at least where I'm from). I've resorted to filling it in Rancho(Salon Fire Control) when I'm up that way.
Third is the cost. I go through a lot of CO2 in a season, probably over $100 worth(ouch!).



I now have CO2... standard 20lb tanks with a fixed pressure gaugeless regulator from Seals Gasses... somewhere in Kalifornia. I also have an adjustable gauge for my beer... my other hobby. Again, hobbies crossing over... so I had the CO2 already for kegging my homebrew... doubles as an onboard air source. It's not pretty like a powertank so I just swap at my local welding supply... I've swapped on trips as well... Moab has a welding shop for example.


I bought two Powertanks a little over 5 years ago. They've worked well, but I agree they're a PITA to fill. It took me forever to find a place after I moved to Atlanta. I called 4 Wheel Parts when I first got here and they said "we can sell you one” (a Powertank), but they had no idea where to get one filled.

Did you know that the tanks expire? I recently went to get mine filled and the technician said "these are expired . . . your going to have to get them hydro tested before I can fill them". It seems that all CO2 tanks are only good for a 5 year period before they have to be hydro tested and recertified. When I called Powertank to ask what the deal was, they said yes and that it should only cost around $15. Well, it took FOREVER to find someone to test them and it's going to end up costing $30 per tank.

If I could do it over again I’d buy a regulator and get the CO2 refills from a local welding shop . . . just my 2 cents.

1996cc... see pic


It is filled with "Air compressor oil". However, it doesn't seem to be pulling any in. It's like it is too thick and the air just rushes by it without the level ever decreasing.

HOW ARE OTHERS OILING THEIR AC COMPRESSORS?????

It is filled with "Air compressor oil". However, it doesn't seem to be pulling any in. It's like it is too thick and the air just rushes by it without the level ever decreasing.

HOW ARE OTHERS OILING THEIR AC COMPRESSORS?????

Air TOOL oil should be very light viscosity, like 10W, Air COMPRESSOR oil is thicker, around 30W, maybe that's your problem? The Air TOOL oiler is designed for 10W oil.
Is it oriented to correct direction? There should be an airflow arrow on it.

Another write up I read on converting a Sanden said his didn't work very well either and restricted the intake airflow. So he dumped some oil in the intake, rigged up a small tube with a valve off the bottom of his oil seperator and Tee-d it back into the intake. Once some oil started building up in the output side, he would run the compressor and open the valve, which would suck the oil back into the intake.

Or a few squirts of Pro-long, Slick 50, or other super slippery PTFE miracle oil and call it good.

I am running a Sanden compressor, pieced together, 2.5gallon tank, works pretty good. I was going to upgrade to a York for better air tool performance and faster air up times due to going to bigger tires. Anyone have the new Warn Powerplant? I am considering that now too.

I
One of the air fittings is in the front driver wheel well. I'm still not sure if this will stay here (still gotta get rubber boot for it too)
http://i133.photobucket.com/albums/q59/divinitous/York%20Setup/frontconnect.jpg

FYI: I picked up some chair leg/crutch/cane 'caps' at my local Ace Hardware that fit over the air disconnects just perfect. They're rubber, so they fit nice & tight - almost too tight. They actually hold moisture in, which caused a small amount of rust. I just spray the connector with a bit of oil now & then, and it seems to be a non-issue.

I had recently posted about using a GM A6 comp. I got some good info on the A6, they have an oil sump, put out gobs of volume, and they are hefty. I was just looking for more info about these comps and why the York gets the nod. I know the York is more compact but I have the A6 comp, brackets, and it is going on a SBC (it's original home)...........is the York the favorite because it is compact....being the only (major) reason?

I'd like to see some setups on a Chevy 350.... 5.7

yup mabey even a TBI 350 using the stock AC compressor:D

yup mabey even a TBI 350 using the stock AC compressor:D


Works great. :grinpimp:

Works great. :grinpimp:

any pics?:D

any pics?:D

I took a couple this morning...

The setup is about as easy as you can get. I have it wired into he high idle circuit for the AC in my harness. So when I flip the switch for the compressor the idle raises. It is just the one wire to a 12v source that will engage the clutch and she will be pumping. Slapped a filter on the intake and then a big tranny hose to a small distribution block with the normal stuff on it. I have good luck using the tranny hose. Handles the high temps and pressure. As for oiling I shoot some air tool oil in before each run. Takes only a minute to do. An inline oiler would be nice though.


http://fourdice4x4.com/photos/albums/rainfly/IMG_0598.jpg

http://fourdice4x4.com/photos/albums/rainfly/IMG_0600.jpg

This is all I could find of the A6comp on a SBC....shit it came factory equipped with A6's for years. I KNOW we have all seen them at some point.

Anyone how any feedback for a electric compressor for those of us who dont want a ac conversion?

I will post my OBO here also.

I went with the electric compressor and a co2 system.

when I was looking for a OBA source I initially wanted a York but i could not find a bracket listed for my 89 2.5 V belt driven motor. I talked to kilby, axleboy and looked online and nothing was listed for my application.

I didn’t want to try and fab something so I decided on an electric compressor. after researching all my options I decided on an extreme air brand as it was 100&#37; duty cycle,3/4 HP fan cooled motor and 4 cfm free flow rate. specs here http://www.extremeoutback.com/index.cgi?cart_id=8550720.3556&pid=30

I got lucky and got a slightly used one for $300. I bought a 2.5 Viair tank, an 80 amp continuous duty relay, interior switch,10G wire,100 amp resettable breaker 25 foot of 3/8 ID air hose, various fittings,110 on and 150 off pressure switch and a gauge.



I mounted the air tank on the passenger fender. it was a tight fit but I like having everything under the hood. I mounted the compressor where my stock air box is and put on a homemade cold air intake. I also put a air chuck from the tank in the front on the grill.

I think this setup is great. It can fill my 35" tire from 13-32psi in about 2 to 3 minuets

This set up was not cheap but it works great, it is fast and reliable and it was fun putting it all together

here is a breakdown on the cost
.compressor $300(used)
.air tank $50
.reley $22
.100 amp breaker $40
.Pressure switch $18
.air hose/fittings $30 (I still have about 15' left of hose)
.Interior switch $3
.wire $5
.gauge $7
---------------------------
Total $475

here are some pics.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/OBA008.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/OBA009.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/Extremeair003.jpg



After having the Extreme air for about a year I decided to get a CO2 set up for a back up and something that is portable for helping others on the trail,taking it to the bone yard or to use air tools ECT.

It is simple, fast and portable and cheap to fill. this is the one I bought. I got it for $200
http://www.offroadairstore.com/servlet/Detail?no=7

After having it for a 8 months I got a adjustable regulator for X-mas for $106 http://www.offroadairstore.com/servlet/Detail?no=8
It is not supposed to freeze up as easy and I can adjust it down to run air tools if I choose.

I keep in the garage when I am not on a wheeling trip

Cost breakdown

SPORT Series kit $200

regulator $106
-----------------------------
Total $306

This is how I mounted it in the heap
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/onboardair001.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a289/jeepsohigh/OBA010.jpg





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2007 MWJT Director of trails.
89 YJ-HP44-Ford 9"-full high steer-5.38 gears-front and rear Detroit's-8" SOA lift-35 MT's-CO2 air-Extreme air 12 volt OBA-full cage-lots of dents-Bla Bla Bla, ETC.

im sure this thread has been seen far too many times over the years but it makes sense to ask my question about oba in this thread instead of a new one. also future readers can read it all in this one package as well. forgive me for asking the noob question but this thread is already in hardcore. but my flame suits on so...

so i knew nothing of OBA before i read this, other than its litteral meaning. ive read this thread, but its just peoples experiances with what works best, and not how it works or how to make it work. i have 3 questions about what wasnt covered.
-i understand that you can place a small compressor in place of the stock ac to pump out air into a tank. thats the idea. but whats the difference between an ac and a sanden/york?
-if the compressor is belt driven (which seems most reliable based on what ive read in this thread) then how is it switched on or off with the pullys constantly spinning? i read somone mentioning a clutch
-what peices parts do you need to put out a reliable 90-110psi to say, a 2 gallon tank?
sorry for the noob questions, but i figured best asked in an established oba topic thread linked off the FAQ

-i understand that you can place a small compressor in place of the stock ac to pump out air into a tank. thats the idea. but whats the difference between an ac and a sanden/york?
A york or a sanden is a compressor that was for AC in its previous life. Only difference is it's not recirculating refrigerant in a closed system, it's just pumping air. York is better cause it has its own oil reservoir, and doesn't require an oiler in the intake to lubricate it. Sanden is nice b/c its already in some jeeps.

-if the compressor is belt driven (which seems most reliable based on what Ive read in this thread) then how is it switched on or off with the pulleys constantly spinning? i read someone mentioning a clutch
There is an electric clutch that engages the pulley when voltage is applied. So even though the pulley is spinning on the compressor body, it's not actually connected to the inside of the compressor & pumping until the clutch is electrically charged.


-what pieces parts do you need to put out a reliable 90-110psi to say, a 2 gallon tank?
Compressor, hose, tank. Everything rated for over 110 psi & capable to endure the heat of an engine bay.

Your pressure switch is what cycles the clutch. It will activate the system at say 90 psi and automatically turn off when it reaches 120 psi or what ever the switch is set at.

thats awsome. i could even air up my dirtbike tires after i change them at the race w/o borrowing somones airtank. or run the nailgun at a job. can i find the parts such as check valves, pressure switchs, intake oilers, ect. on these offroad air sites? or maybe home depot/lowes?

Home Depot/Lowes would have everything you need, except maybe for the air line. You need a high temp hose coming off the compressor, say a 12" piece coming from the comp. to the check valve, then you can use regular air line. Hydraulic shop would be a good place to get that short piece of line with ends crimped on.

I ordered everything from http://www.mcmaster.com/ it was just easier than having to take trips between home depot, lowes, sears and all those half assed conglomerate of a retail store.

i have an 8 cfm york from an old chevy car. at 1500 rpm (hand throttle) it will keep up with my big ass 1/2" impact even when i am running it none stop. i have an 11 gallon tank. hell it even runs my air drill, air ratchet, die grinder, air grinder, and my ain chisel. now when i go wheelin, i take mostly air tools. my ass is lazy and tired of hand tools, haha. i got a 10 cfm york from a friend that i was goin to swap out, but so far in the last 2 year i have not had a single problem. i have an adjustable pressure switch from grainger, an oil/water separator after the pressure switch and then my pluming. i DO NOT have an oiler on the inlet side of the compressor. i mounted my pump straight up and filled the resevoir with some 10w-30 oil, it barley spits anything out even when running hours at a time. i also built my bracket from scap metal to mount a sbc. everything is quick discount that is mounted on my fender due to the fact my fenders are hinged and removable via a hinge pin and one wing nut. couple pics...
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa256/jeepman4804/IMG_1024.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa256/jeepman4804/IMG_1023.jpg
http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa256/jeepman4804/IMG_1022.jpg
clay