Hi there, I am currently in the process of doing a one ton axle swap in my 93 YJ. I am looking for a stronger pitman arm that is flat and will bolt up to the stock yj steering box. I believe that an older wagneer pitman arm will work. Just not sure on the years. Just wondering if you guys have anything like this, or have ever heard of this being done. thanks

Pretty much any Grand wagoneer pitman arm will work. All the ones I have seen are long, flat and will bolt up to your YJ. The one is mine is from a 1991.

This is what you're talking about? I think I'm gonna have to get one too!

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/294.html

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/partsSQL/images/863-641-PIT-detail.jpg

wfoconcepts (http://www.wfoconcepts.com/Steering/SteeringParts/wagoneer.html)
Looks like they do custom ones too and modify them for your steering ends.

This is what you're talking about? I think I'm gonna have to get one too!

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/parts/Detailed/294.html

http://www.teamgrandwagoneer.com/partsSQL/images/863-641-PIT-detail.jpg

That is the one I just received on Friday. $25 plus the trip. Not too bad, and it looks like it will do the trick for the steering.

that looks like a stock CJ pitman arm. that could be another cheap option for ya.

I've got a few other problems to tackle.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/kmaccullough/IMG_0577.jpg

wfoconcepts
Looks like they do custom ones too and modify them for your steering ends.

So the wagoneer already mounts to the YJ steering box, what about the rod end, you're saying that can make that whatever size you'd like?

high5, cut off that track bar mount and get a stock YJ pitman arm. then see where you stand.

high5, cut off that track bar mount and get a stock YJ pitman arm. then see where you stand.

I moved the axle forward a little bit, but apparently too much. The steering on the d60 was a little closer than I thought it would be. but a stock YJ arm is still going to be on top of the tie rod correct me if I'm wrong, the dropped one just drops it.

What I need to do is either push the axle back 1.5" or so or move the steering box forward.

I think I might do a M.O.R.E. Shackle reversal and get 1.5" out of that, it will end up being a little more for me.

i would try a stock pitman arm before spending a bunch of money that might present even more problems for you in the long run. but then again it might not...who knows.

Well what I'm figuring is that I need to lift the front a little over 2 inches more. I already stretched the front by cutting the hangars and moving them forward. If I get the SRS system from them, it will lift the front around 2" and also take it close to it's stock position moving it back 2" or so. So I might be able to kill two birds with one stone.

Even a stock YJ arm is going to have the drag link almost sitting on top of the tie rod. Using a Waggy arm will make it even worse since it is a longer arm. You are almost to the point where you could consider the Astro Van box. I think you moved your front end forward 3 inches, and I think the Astro Van box is ideal in the 4"-6" stretch range. You might be a little on the low side of the figure, but it could be another option for you. I am running a MORE shackle reverse and 2" springs SOA up front with my 60 and it looks like I will have 0 clearance issue with the hi-steer I am going to run.

I used a dodge van pitman arm, it actually turns up, its a short arm but It gave me the clearance I needed. Tim

Even a stock YJ arm is going to have the drag link almost sitting on top of the tie rod. Using a Waggy arm will make it even worse since it is a longer arm. You are almost to the point where you could consider the Astro Van box. I think you moved your front end forward 3 inches, and I think the Astro Van box is ideal in the 4"-6" stretch range. You might be a little on the low side of the figure, but it could be another option for you. I am running a MORE shackle reverse and 2" springs SOA up front with my 60 and it looks like I will have 0 clearance issue with the hi-steer I am going to run.

I think what I'm going to end up doing is building my own shackle reversal so it's the height I want. Plus I figure I'll save something like $220! :D

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/images/images_big/3inch-spring-hanger.jpg

http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/images/standard%20shackel%20hanger.jpg

I'll move the axle back around 1.5-2" close to it's stock location.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/Jeep1.jpg

Remove the fenders completely.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/Jeep2.jpg

And build a little armor.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/Jeep3.jpg

Kinda like what this guy did:

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/jeep4.jpg

(Hope you enjoyed the paint shop! :flipoff2:)

I bent 2 of those pitman arms from teamgrandwagoneer and broke another. They definatley represent the "You get what you pay for" saying. I got what should be my last one I'll ever have to buy from Sams Offroad. It's stupid beefy. They have 2 types and you can get them already drilled for a tre or you can get a blank end. I got a blank arm with out the tie rod hole or the powdercoating. I drilled it for a heim and made it the length I needed and trimmed off the extra. These are about 3/4" thick and are A36 cold rolled steel.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v108/heatstroke/specia81.jpg

That's pretty cool.

Anyone know what size the Tre is for the YJ Stock pitman arm, and the size that would go into a stock D60 tierod?

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/1021071513.jpg

Check my build thread in my signature. The second one down. It covers me putting a front HP60 in my 93 YJ. I ended up using a stock OEM YJ pitman arm reamed out for Chevy 3/4 ton TRE's. I did this to match everything up. The stock OEM TRE at the YJ pitman arm has a metric thread size, and NO one makes bungs for that application.

I ended up moving my front axle forward 2 inches and still was able to keep my stock box location. I didn't want to mess with box relocations or an astro box because Im planning full hydro.

GM 1 Ton (Drag Length End 3/4 to 5/8 Taper

This is the size you're talking about?

Because I'm wanting to go from a YJ pitman arm:

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/kmaccullough/IMG_0577.jpg

To the tierod. That's how the it was setup on the chevy I took it off of.

http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/ll315/kmaccullough/jeepstuff.jpg

Or should I just drill them and run hiems?

since you are doing a shackle reversal, it might be cheaper to buy some XJ type shackles. then cut out some of the bottom of your frame and drill a hole through for the shackle. that will also save you some height as well.

edit: it looks like you would have room to mount your tie rod above the springs, under the high arm.

Right, but I want to keep my steering high. So it's out of the way.

is the stock YJ arm flat or does it z a little bit?

The tie rod is cut and sleeved with 1 3/4 x .250 wall DOM. I have hi steer arms. so the Drag is going to my passenger hi steer. I tried to keep everything above the springs but ran into clearence problems. You can always go to the tie rod, but depending on location below/above will affect the amount of bumpsteer you get. I have Zero bump steer in my set up.

I could always relocate the box, but if im planning on full hydro, why waste my time.

Right, but I want to keep my steering high. So it's out of the way.

is the stock YJ arm flat or does it z a little bit?

Mines a slight drop.

As for running the tie rod under the Hi-steer above the springs, possible. But my arms are reamed for TRE's. I would have to drill out and run a Grade8 to a Heim in single sheer. Im saving up for full hydro.

GM 1 Ton (Drag Length End 3/4 to 5/8 Taper)

This is the size though?

Check my build thread in my signature. The second one down. It covers me putting a front HP60 in my 93 YJ. I ended up using a stock OEM YJ pitman arm reamed out for Chevy 3/4 ton TRE's. I did this to match everything up. The stock OEM TRE at the YJ pitman arm has a metric thread size, and NO one makes bungs for that application.

I ended up moving my front axle forward 2 inches and still was able to keep my stock box location. I didn't want to mess with box relocations or an astro box because Im planning full hydro.

Hey I saw your steering on your build and it looks good. But we're doing two different things.

I have they Chevy D60 hysteer and they have only one hole in each arm, so my plan is hook the tierod into those, and then put my draglink into the tierod hole.

This is what I plan on doing: (kinda confusing I guess.)

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/Untitled-4.jpg

What's the size tre that hooks into the tierod?

Is it a regular chevy size? When I measured it the large size was 5/8" and the small 9/16". I guess I could get that reamed out too... But does the chevy end fit in there?

ahighfivetolife...Ballistic Fab have the TRE's that you maybe looking for, it comes with the setup that I think you want . If not then they have all the specs on the tapers and sizes. Sorry Im not real clear on what you are looking for. Is it a clearance issue or TRE? Corrrect me if am wrong, but is that a Y-steer setup you are doing? Good luck man!

If you use that style steering, there is a certain amount of a "dead zone" in the steering. I would say your best bet is to get a passenger side arm with two holes so you can run your drag link directly to the arm instead of the tie rod.

That lower tie rod end should be the standard chevy taper, but if you try and mount it on top of the high steer arm, the taper will be facing the wrong direction (drag link would mount to the rear). You can ream the taper the other direction to mount the drag link in front and that would solve your problem.

ahighfivetolife...Ballistic Fab have the TRE's that you maybe looking for, it comes with the setup that I think you want . If not then they have all the specs on the tapers and sizes. Sorry Im not real clear on what you are looking for. Is it a clearance issue or TRE? Corrrect me if am wrong, but is that a Y-steer setup you are doing? Good luck man!

Cool, thanks for the info. I'll look at their site. They have a lot of cool stuff like that. It's not a clearance issue, it's actually a tre. I'll see if I can find a picture of it when I got it. I'm not sure if it was Stock chevy steering, but this is what it looked like when I got the axles.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/1021071513.jpg

I'm trying to replicate that, but with my own DOM tubing so it's a lot stronger.

If you use that style steering, there is a certain amount of a "dead zone" in the steering. I would say your best bet is to get a passenger side arm with two holes so you can run your drag link directly to the arm instead of the tie rod.

That lower tie rod end should be the standard chevy taper, but if you try and mount it on top of the high steer arm, the taper will be facing the wrong direction (drag link would mount to the rear). You can ream the taper the other direction to mount the drag link in front and that would solve your problem.

It's on the front side already. My draglink will be almost on top o my tierod so I don't think it matters what side it's on anyways.

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c83/ahighfivetolife/1021071513.jpg

Are you going to repace the entire steering with new TRE's and tubing or are you going to try and reuse both the tire and drag link? I had to go back and remind myself what started this thread...

Are you going to repace the entire steering with new TRE's and tubing or are you going to try and reuse both the tire and drag link? I had to go back and remind myself what started this thread...

I'm gonna use that stock tierod for now and build only a burly draglink for now. When they wear out completely or when I get money for a tie rod, I'll build a burly tierod. Which ever comes first.

I think I found the tre I'm looking for. I need to finish lifting this thing so I can order the parts. it's about $20 cheaper than running a heim drag link.

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/es2027l.jpg&maxx=300&maxy=0

It has a different taper than the rest of the chevy rod ends. It's a little smaller and a different size.

Is this what you're using in your stock YJ pitman arms? or are you guys using a fullsize chevy rod end?

When I did my tierod over knuckle conversion, I bought a reamer and had to ream out the pitman arm to get that tre to fit. It was going into a TJ arm, which is probably about the same size as a YJ arm. It's the same taper as the other tie rod ends but requires a different depth because it is intended to have a higher misalignment than the other tie rod ends use. I reamed mine until I was able to get the cotter pin through the castle nut.

If you are still looking for tie-rod specifics then Parts Mike has some good info here (http://www.partsmike.com/tie_rodid.html).

When I did my tierod over knuckle conversion, I bought a reamer and had to ream out the pitman arm to get that tre to fit. It was going into a TJ arm, which is probably about the same size as a YJ arm. It's the same taper as the other tie rod ends but requires a different depth because it is intended to have a higher misalignment than the other tie rod ends use. I reamed mine until I was able to get the cotter pin through the castle nut.

If you are still looking for tie-rod specifics then Parts Mike has some good info here (http://www.partsmike.com/tie_rodid.html).

Right on guys! Thanks. :)

How hard was it to ream out that arm and how much did the reamer cost? I'm thinkin I'll just take mine to a machine shop and make sure it gets done the right way.

It wasn't bad. Me and another buddy went in on one from Snap-on. Just make sure you use a lot of lube (words of advice for so many areas of life...). We bought one from snap-on and it lasted long enough for 4 knuckles, two pitman arms and two lower TRE's. We helped it a little with a die grinder and it's looking a little ragged now, but it did the job. When we reamed the knuckles and lower TRE, we reamed them as deep as we seemed reasonable to keep the tie rod roll down to reduce the "dead zone" in the steering. You can get polypropylene spacers to reduce this even more. Here's a list of sources and old prices from a thread I found with a quick search:

Reamer is 7 degrees (3.5 per side)
Afco Racing $120 p/n 80770
http://www.afcoracing.com/products/g...ProductID=2631
Optional Reamer Sources:
Stock Car Products $80 p/n R8201
http://www.stockcarproducts.com/
Goodson $50 p/n TR-216-2
http://www.goodson.com/scripts/mshop/
Snap On $37 p/n R121
https://buy.snapon.com/

Cool, thanks man. I only need my pitman arm reamed out to 1.5"/ft. I think I'm just gonna take it down to a machine shop and do it. Whatever it costs it's got to be less than $120. Maybe if I was in on a group buy or split it with a buddy like you, but that's way too much! :eek:

Thanks for the links man.

When i did my crossover I used the chevy full size TRE. Used the Ballistic Fab TRE and the Part Mike high steer arms with the 1" spacer. Its worked really well for me. Hope this helps.

Cool, thanks man. I only need my pitman arm reamed out to 1.5"/ft. I think I'm just gonna take it down to a machine shop and do it. Whatever it costs it's got to be less than $120. Maybe if I was in on a group buy or split it with a buddy like you, but that's way too much! :eek:

Thanks for the links man.

the snap on reamer is only $40 look at the last one listed.