I am looking for a complete super charger "kit" for my 2001 dodge 1500 with the 5.9 gasser/auto. By kit I mean I want an intercooler higher PPH injectors ECM programmer and anything else that goes along with the rest of the vital stuff. This is my tow rig that I will definately be keeping because with the price of diesel fuel and the D trucks as well being so outrageous to me. I only tow about 5k the truck is paid off in excellent shape but isnt worth enough for me to justify selling it.

I have looked at the web sites of all of the major brands I can think of and cannot find as complete setup as I want. paxton, vortex, procharger, powerdyne, etc I have also done a search here. I am not looking for "how to" info but pointers in the direction of finding all the stuff to make a long lifed tow rig out of it. I plan to do the headers and exhaust at the same time. Any info would be greatly appreciated as well as any flaming. Should I just piece it together myself? i dont care about cost as I want this to be the best.

If you add a supercharger you will need to run premium gas since you are raising the compression ratio. Diesel fuel may be more expensive but they get better miles per gallon than gas engines. Sorry, I don't know of a complete kit, I just wanted to point that out. Good luck!

I don't know that a kit as complete as what you're looking for exists. You might try these guys however to see if they can help you build a complete custom package since I believe they do ECU calibrations:

http://www.krcperformance.com/krc/

If it were me and I were building a tow rig I think I'd be building a stroker smallblock rather than putting a blower on the motor since you could likely calibrate the ECU to be able to run something other than premium gas. The other thing to keep in mind is that these engines do not have a knock sensor on them so you are on your own to take your foot off the gas if you start to hear knock.

Thanks guys I will consider your advise. Any info on stroker small block dodges mondster? I am not afraid to run premium only as its still much cheaper than diesel is here. This truck is very rarely used at all and any more its only work duty so a SC I think is the way to go for me.

For some good info and advise, if you check www.dodgetalk.com they have lots of knowledgable people who run SC etc. There is a guy there as well who works with SCT, and they can take and write multiple custom tunes for the mods you have on your truck. If you want to change one, you get a hold of them, and they email the new tune to you.
There are also many running stoker motors there. If you have a 5.9, I think there is a 409 and a 426 stroker kit.

Maybe your in need of a good tune up. The 5.9L Magnum should have no problem pulling 5,000lbs. You should focus more on susension, braking, and weight since its a 1/2 ton.

Spending the thousands to supercharge your 1/2 ton 5.9L would be a bad idea.

Thanks guys I will consider your advise. Any info on stroker small block dodges mondster? I am not afraid to run premium only as its still much cheaper than diesel is here. This truck is very rarely used at all and any more its only work duty so a SC I think is the way to go for me.

I wish I had some more information regarding the stroker motors, but I don't really have much experience with them. I know they have gained a lot of popularity over the last few years though so they must be a good deal...

As I mentioned earlier, the biggest advantage I see with the stroker motor over a blower is the fact that you can likely run just about any gas you can find. This is important for me at least because there are a lot of places that you can't find premium fuel easily when you are traveling through the small towns and stuff. Maybe you won't have that issue. The displacement and added torque is also always nice too.

Of course in a perfect world you could stroke the motor AND put a blower on it too... :flipoff2:

If ya dig around at the website I gave ya, there are some that are upwards of 400 horse, and reporting the same fuel economy as stock.

http://www.campbellenterprises.com/eagle-specialty-products/eagle-stroker-kits/mopar-340-360-magnum-stroker-kit.htm

Maybe your in need of a good tune up. The 5.9L Magnum should have no problem pulling 5,000lbs. You should focus more on susension, braking, and weight since its a 1/2 ton.

Spending the thousands to supercharge your 1/2 ton 5.9L would be a bad idea.

???

Mine was a dog. Hell it was a dog empty with 4.10s and 32"s.....

I recall towing a 7k lb trailer (YJ on a small car hauler) up Vail and Esinhouer at 25-30 mph.... That was 32"s and 4.10s, pre-death flash. After the death flash it couldn't get out of its own way....

With updated tuning it was fine, but no comparison in mileage or power to my BBC. I think a SC should really help out at the high altitudes you see here.

???

Mine was a dog. Hell it was a dog empty with 4.10s and 32"s.....

I recall towing a 7k lb trailer (YJ on a small car hauler) up Vail and Esinhouer at 25-30 mph.... That was 32"s and 4.10s, pre-death flash. After the death flash it couldn't get out of its own way....

With updated tuning it was fine, but no comparison in mileage or power to my BBC. I think a SC should really help out at the high altitudes you see here.

At altitude I could definitely see where you are coming from, but my 5.9L powered 1/2t pickups with 3.55 gears and ~31" tires were fine hauling 5k loads at 1000-3000 feet above sea level and they generally got ~10mpg towing at 65 - 75 mph.

A blower would certainly help with that, but I really have some reservations about putting forced induction on any gas engine I want to tow with. Regardless of what the manufacturers say, I feel it is like pulling the pin on a grenade. Hence my suggestion to increase displacement. Between that and proper gearing I think it would be a fine tow rig that would probably still get acceptable mileage loaded and unloaded and you could run crappy gas if you had to.

The displacement would help, but I think the big advantage when towing at 10 000 feet+ is forced induction.

On the other hand if I can tow 12 000 lb with an NA 496, a stroker Dodge should handle 5000 lb with proper gearing. And it is nice to run 85 octane gas.

I've got a 98 dodge 1/2 ton with the 5.9. Its got 4.10's, and 265/70/17 tires. I've pulled a tj rubicon on a 16 foot trailer, and it did fine. It wasn't going to win any races to 60, but once there, it does fine. I can roll 70 down the road with it.

I just put an ATI Procharger on my Chevy 2500HD 6.0, it was not to hard. Here is the ATI link.
http://www.procharger.com/TRUCK_SUV/truck_suv.shtml

Thanks guys just got back from putting 2000 miles on it in 3 days and just caught up on the thread. Mondster-mope-big dan, I dont know if you realize where I am. Every direction I go is up huge steep mountain passes north east and south are actually the longest and steepest in the US. My truck runs fantastic but needs just that little bit of help to maintain 75 mph on the interstate while towing. I ALWAYS tow with premium fuel anyway because it pings at full throttle if I dont. Its already got 4.10s and 32's. The stroker is out unless i build it myself because $11,000 for a long block is more than the truck is worth. Mine is in about the best shape of any but they only book for about $10,000 retail much less trade in. Wich blows cuz total payout was $23,000 so instead of taking a huge loss I am going to run it to death if I can. Its been paid off for while now so I have no car payments and not ready to get them again.

I saw the ATI kit mope and that is the only complete setup I have seen any where yet. $5000 is kinda my cut off and thats pushing it up there but very promising. The stroker is just to much money and I would sell it to buy a diesel instead. Any one know if the intercooler from the same truck but diesel would bolt right into the gasser with little or no mods? Maybe I could complete my own from a less complete kit. That and 24 pph injectors with reflash on the ecm is what all the other kits are missing. I only want enough boost pick it up a little. Not going to drag race it but it will hual loaded up hills for long distances just ask ram-v about this area.

I knew where you were located and as I said before, I still feel that putting a blower on something that you want to tow with is like pulling the pin on a grenade. You said you already have problems with detonation, do you know what would happen if you rattled that motor with a blower on it? I don't like to walk...

IMHO, a stroker motor is a MUCH safer, more tow rig friendly solution. Strokers don't have to be expensive unless you want them to be. Search around and I'm sure you could come up with a combo that would fit into your price limit, but you may have to do some of the work and piece it together yourself.

I believe that the intercooler off of a diesel should fit without much if any mods to your truck. I've never tried it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

I will say the slowest I ever did Vail pass was in a turbo'd truck....

Medium Duty IH towing the F350.... 18 mph

http://www.trailseeker.com/4x4/mods/f350/gj131.jpg

Check in to Whipple Superchargers. I have one and like it a lot. They come with a chip and don't need a intercooler. I don't know if they make one for your truck, though. Should be a couple clicks to find is all.

I knew where you were located and as I said before, I still feel that putting a blower on something that you want to tow with is like pulling the pin on a grenade. You said you already have problems with detonation, do you know what would happen if you rattled that motor with a blower on it? I don't like to walk...

IMHO, a stroker motor is a MUCH safer, more tow rig friendly solution. Strokers don't have to be expensive unless you want them to be. Search around and I'm sure you could come up with a combo that would fit into your price limit, but you may have to do some of the work and piece it together yourself.

I believe that the intercooler off of a diesel should fit without much if any mods to your truck. I've never tried it, but I don't see why it wouldn't work.

Elaborate for me please. i dont understand what you think is going to happen if i boost it. I am only planning on 5 to 10 psi max and I am pretty conservative. Are you pretty much garaunteing that I detonate a rod out the side of the block? I was more worried about the tranny not being able to take the extra horses not the engine. Did dodge do anything different when they super charged the 2wd's from the factory?

filthy mcChevy I have looked at the whipple setup and they boast the highest horse power gain for my truck of all SC kits. I dont think I want that much boost and for towing I want an intercooler even if I dont need one. The cooler air is much easier on the engine and makes them live longer than with out.

Elaborate for me please. i dont understand what you think is going to happen if i boost it. I am only planning on 5 to 10 psi max and I am pretty conservative. Are you pretty much garaunteing that I detonate a rod out the side of the block? I was more worried about the tranny not being able to take the extra horses not the engine. Did dodge do anything different when they super charged the 2wd's from the factory?

There is waaaaaaaay too much info that you really should know before getting into turbocharging or supercharging a gasoline engine for me to list here. You can get the basics from the book "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. To do it properly you need to start there.

I'm not guaranteeing that you will blow it up, but you have to understand what is going on. First off, these engines/engine controllers do not have any provisions for a knock sensor and some have detonation problems to begin with. When you start pushing the horsepower limits on cast pistons and you detonate while under boost you certainly risk cracking a piston(s). You would need to have enough sense to take your foot off the throttle if you hear any detonation. An ECU calibration may help this, but I don't think it would necessarily keep you 100% safe. There are a lot of safeguards and provisions built into a factory ECU for a turbocharged or supercharged engine that you wouldn't have in this setup and you would be responsible for determining what is safe. Furthermore, when you compress the air you generate heat. Intercoolers help, but I would still be concerned about running in boost for hundreds of miles.

Gasoline engines with forced induction on them require more (EDIT: different might be a better word) maintenance than most people seem to have the ability to give them. I know people who are completely capable of working on cars themselves, but they still have no clue how to properly care for a motor with forced induction on it nor do they understand how it works and what it does. You have a lot more potential to fuck a boosted motor up than you do an N/A motor.

Forced induction motors have a way of finding parts that are weaker much faster than a N/A motor. Be prepared.

As for the tranny, I wouldn't worry about it as long as you have a brain in your head and know how to properly take care of an automatic in the first place. I honestly believe that most of these so called "crappy Dodge automatic tranny" problems are generated by the owners who can't drive and don't take care of them properly. A transgo valve body kit would certainly help with that.

I *think* that the "factory supercharged" trucks were done by an aftermarket upfitter sold through dealerships. That's what I've gathered from the pics and info I've seen of them anyway, as I have never actually seen one. They were just an add on kit similar to what you are looking at AFIK. That wouldn't be the first time Chrysler has done something like that (GM has done it too and I imagine that Ford has as well).

***Please note that this is not meant to be an exhaustive list on what I think might happen. This is just the first stuff off the top of my head. I've done a lot of work on turbocharged and supercharged cars, and from my experience it is something that I would not want to do since I like having a reliable tow vehicle. Blowers and turbos are better off left on toys IMHO.***

With that said, I *think* that there may have been one or two guys who have had blown GM gasser tow rigs on here, but I can't remember if they actually had done it or if they were just talking about doing it.

Ok guys switching gears a little bit. What do I do about the efi system keeping up with a stroker? I have been reading site info for hours and its all vague to me. I know a ton about strokers and performance engines and these sites seem to be geared more toward people who dont want to understand but just want to buy power. I want to know everything about everything before I am going to spend a dime. I see all the stroker kits but none of them show applications they will work with and I am absolutely not going to give up the fuel injection. I read KRC-SCT- joined the dodge talk forum but didnt come up with anything in the search. It obviously has to have been done to death by now. Do I just start calling these people to tell them I need more in depth info?

Why not do a chip up-grade and cold air set up with a good set of headers. And drop your gearing down to 4.56 gears.

Second is your tranny going to live up to anything you wanting to do to it. Dodges auto trannys are junk and its what make most dodge trucks dogs.

I got a 97 s/b reg cab 1500 4x4 318magnum. I had the rebuilt on the motor done at a local engine shop. I wanted more power. For pulling and running it in the mud with larger tires.

I drop over $4000 grand in my rebuild. Motor had 122,000 really hard miles, me a teenagers with is first dd/mud truck.

Motor work block bored .035 over all new intunal parts, crank grind and rods for new bearings. Both my heads were cracked in 3 spots each. So down to the dealer for a new set of heads. Had to a set of RT heads ordered. I added a crane RV cam. At the time they didnt have there roller rocker setup out yet.Big time power adder. I did no ecm work at all still stock. Added a nv4500 tranny with C/F dual clutch, T/B spacer. This truck would run the 1/4 in 15.30's on 37s. Which is not bad. I got to rearwheel dino it once. Had a bad clutch and still put down 300hp to the rear tires with 37's.

I used this truck to pull my rig for the first year. 7000 pd load. No problem getting it going to 65mph and holding it there with 35" tires. Suspension and brake made it a scary pull truck.

Why not do a chip up-grade and cold air set up with a good set of headers. And drop your gearing down to 4.56 gears.

Second is your tranny going to live up to anything you wanting to do to it. Dodges auto trannys are junk and its what make most dodge trucks dogs.

I got a 97 s/b reg cab 1500 4x4 318magnum. I had the rebuilt on the motor done at a local engine shop. I wanted more power. For pulling and running it in the mud with larger tires.

I drop over $4000 grand in my rebuild. Motor had 122,000 really hard miles, me a teenagers with is first dd/mud truck.

Motor work block bored .035 over all new intunal parts, crank grind and rods for new bearings. Both my heads were cracked in 3 spots each. So down to the dealer for a new set of heads. Had to a set of RT heads ordered. I added a crane RV cam. At the time they didnt have there roller rocker setup out yet.Big time power adder. I did no ecm work at all still stock. Added a nv4500 tranny with C/F dual clutch, T/B spacer. This truck would run the 1/4 in 15.30's on 37s. Which is not bad. I got to rearwheel dino it once. Had a bad clutch and still put down 300hp to the rear tires with 37's.

I used this truck to pull my rig for the first year. 7000 pd load. No problem getting it going to 65mph and holding it there with 35" tires. Suspension and brake made it a scary pull truck.


Because I want reall noticable power gains. For my money I want to feel the difference when towing by no stetch of the imagination. My experience with those mods in the past each equal up to a little bit of increase but is very forgettable very soon. With a programmer I once thought it didnt do anything till I unprogrammed then you could feel it when taken away. Not worth the money to me. I want stroker or blown power and will rework the trans as needed. Its go the RE auto and can be built pretty tough or so I read.

I want stroker or blown power and will rework the trans as needed. Its go the RE auto and can be built pretty tough or so I read.

The 46rh/re transmissions that are in the 1/2t pickups are pretty much the same tranny as the 47rh/re that is behind the CTD and v10 powered pickups. The only real differences are the planetaries and an extra clutch or two in the OD unit. The general consensus among the diesel crowd is that with a decent converter and valve body the trannys are fine for moderate diesel builds (which will blow your small block away in the torque department). Assuming that your tranny is functioning fine and isn't beat up and/or on its last leg anyway I would expect it to be fine with a stroker motor if you put a transgo valve body kit in it and maybe a converter that is better suited to your new motor.

What is your tranny budget? You will definelty need a performance rebuild and coolers, and controlers, shift kits, converter

All way's require ecm/computer work. Find out what system works best with what mods.

I like the idea if engine work. Yeah strokers are nice if your bottom end is shot or has high mileage. But if your bottom is solid just build up the top end. You can do some nice heads, thin head gasket for a bump in compression. Tq monster cam shaft, some type of intake manafold, throttle body, kick ass engine managment, smog legal headers/ exhaust. Add that kick ass tranny behind it with some deeper gear's, air bags and bilstien shocks.

This would be a solid 350hp 400tq engine package if you can tune it.

You can do all this for under $5,000

My whole truck is solid. I got it used but with way low miles on it and now its 111,000 miles on it. It has never had the intake pan leak never had any problems what so ever (knock on wood). It could easily be left alone and still be a good truck that I do get away with doing what I need with it. Just that I have some expendable money now that if I dont do this now I may never get to do it. So you think if I do the heads/intake/cam and the SCT reflasher I could get 300 to the ground?

. So you think if I do the heads/intake/cam and the SCT reflasher I could get 300 to the ground?


Ask the guys in the Dodge Forum, but dont see why not.

Have you made sure the stroker kit are for the magnum engines. Most of the stuff is for the older 360 motors. Which are way different. I would do a lower gear swop and tranny up grade and then go from there. the trannys make a big difference in these trucks. That why i went to a nv4500 i blew 4 nv3500. Dealer replace 2 own there tab the 3rd was me paying there lador. 4th one i swopped in the nv4500. p.s my truck is up for sale. less then 40,000 on the motor and tranny. I got lower gears to.

And i need seen much of a power increase with the programmer either. Thats why i did inturnal motor work.

Ask the guys in the Dodge Forum, but dont see why not.

I tried and have only gotten one response. The search turns up to much crap to sift through for the time I have right now but its looking like I will have to cave and read a thousand threads

Have you made sure the stroker kit are for the magnum engines. Most of the stuff is for the older 360 motors. Which are way different. I would do a lower gear swop and tranny up grade and then go from there. the trannys make a big difference in these trucks. That why i went to a nv4500 i blew 4 nv3500. Dealer replace 2 own there tab the 3rd was me paying there lador. 4th one i swopped in the nv4500. p.s my truck is up for sale. less then 40,000 on the motor and tranny. I got lower gears to.

And i need seen much of a power increase with the programmer either. Thats why i did inturnal motor work.

Thats what I am asking. I cant find specific info like "will this work in my EFI magnum truck?" I plan on doing the tranny cooler imediately and maybe the transgo shift kit mondster mentioned but not going through it till it goes out on me. I did the brake upgrade when I bought the truck have a trailer brake controller and the trailer has brakes on both axles. The shocks have been upgraded to RS 9000's so I can stiffen em up when loaded and thats all it needs. When the trailer is loaded properly I get just the right amount of tongue wieght. I dont want to lower the gears any more becaues I drive it long distances unloaded somtimes too and dont want a miserable high rpm ride. As well as any worse fuel mileage when unloaded. I averaged 14 mpg for 2000 miles in two days last weekend. One day up one day break one day back.

AFIK, there really isn't anything different in the rotating assembly between the magnums and non-magnum motors. The big differences that I am aware of are the heads (specifically valvetrain oiling) and the fact that they are all MPI.

Crank dimensions are the same between the two motors which is likely why they don't list model years they fit (because they should fit them all). There are plenty of Magnum based strokers out there.

Dont over look that tranny. On my 99 CTD 48re the tranny needed a performance rebuild. The stock TC's suck and alot of powers slips right through them. On my way home from the tranny shop it felt like I had an extra 50 hp, and when I pressed on the gas it didnt think about moving it just hauled ass.

Your 100,000 mile stock tranny is going to have problems behind this new engine of yours. Its gonna be a complete waste of time and money if you dont rebuild it with good parts like a better TC.

But hey if you want to drop $5,000 on a stroker engine and put a $60 cooler on your tranny go right ahead and see what happens.

Dont over look that tranny. On my 99 CTD 48re the tranny needed a performance rebuild. The stock TC's suck and alot of powers slips right through them. On my way home from the tranny shop it felt like I had an extra 50 hp, and when I pressed on the gas it didnt think about moving it just hauled ass.

Your 100,000 mile stock tranny is going to have problems behind this new engine of yours. Its gonna be a complete waste of time and money if you dont rebuild it with good parts like a better TC.

But hey if you want to drop $5,000 on a stroker engine and put a $60 cooler on your tranny go right ahead and see what happens.

In my experience, the v8 gasser trannys aren't as prone to the TC issues you speak of with the CTD. You have to remember that you're talking about a motor that makes the same or more torque stock than what this v8 gas motor will when it is modified. That's not to say that it wouldn't benefit from a good aftermarket converter however. As long as the tranny is functioning fine, a good aftermarket converter and a transgo valve body kit would wake that tranny up and do wonders for his performance.

FWIW, a '99 CTD would have come with a 47re stock, not a 48re, although there really isn't enough difference between them to make a difference for what you're talking about here anyway. :flipoff2:

FWIW, a '99 CTD would have come with a 47re stock, not a 48re, although there really isn't enough difference between them to make a difference for what you're talking about here anyway. :flipoff2:

Brain fart, ment 47re

He still need's a good converter, and it will make a big difference in performance. Stock converters are crap and let so much power slip right by.

Now that i think about it it could prolly use a TC any way. The only complaint I have had with this truck the entire time I have had it was with the lock up mechanizm in the TC. When in cruise mode it locks and unlocks constantly making the rpms go up and down 100 or so rpm but never down shifting.

As for the perfomance rebuild: A rebuild is a rebuild and dont see much of a reason to fix it before it breaks. If it costs the same in the end i will be procrastinating the tranny do-over when neccessary.

I'm starting to think none of this is worth it now any way. There is nothing wrong with it what so ever except that it is exactly what I bought. A 1/2 ton with a small block in it. Throwing a bunch of money at it wont really change that and may flip it from being the most reliable thing I have ever had into a turd that I dont like anymore. I thought I could just super charge it for a bit more torque and pony's wich I wish I had just blindly done. Now that I am aware of some things after the search I am much more hesitant. Dam you guys and thank you at the same time thats why I asked and what these types of forums are for.

Now that i think about it it could prolly use a TC any way. The only complaint I have had with this truck the entire time I have had it was with the lock up mechanizm in the TC. When in cruise mode it locks and unlocks constantly making the rpms go up and down 100 or so rpm but never down shifting.

Typically that seems to be the result of a faulty TPS, not a converter problem. I've never had the issue with any of my Dodges, but it seems that a lot of other people have cured the constant locking and unlocking of the TC with the TPS.

Also, if it is occurring at ~45mph, there isn't any amount of parts replacement that will take care of it. That's the approximate speed that they lock up.

EDIT: Keeping a tow rig stock or almost stock is generally a good idea IMO since it will likely be more reliable that way. I don't really think that a stroker motor would be unreliable if properly done however.

Here's my $.02

I think it was stated that the truck has had nothing done with it and its got 120k+ on the ticker. I I would do an intake, headers, and a good exhaust. I would also upgrade the ignition system. Now the major stuff is intake manifold and either new heads or head work plus a new tq converter (don't know if you can get a manual lock up for that application).

thats where i would start before adding forced induction to an engine that already pings at full throttle.

Plus, i have noticed a difference in my trucks when i switched to full synthetic all the way through the drivetrain.

micky

Try kenne Bell, but I think they discontinued the kit. I have one on a 5.2 dakota and it is a very complete kit, comes with a brain to go over your ECM, but no intercooler. They make the same kit for the 5.9.

Just read all the posts. With the kenne bell I had to run premium always and most of the time premium and octane booster to eliminate pinging. Ran it 7 Lbs. of boost. The kennebell kit comes with a ping sensor/gauge. The guy that had the truck before me had problems with keeeping belts on the pully and keeping head gaskets sealed. Now I have the truck and it is geting full widths, the back choped off, and more boost :D

Just checked the kenne bell site and it is no longer listed on the site, but if you called them I bet they could find you an old one at a dealer. Bet you could talk em into discounting it because of it no longer being produced.