i have a 78 f 150 and i am putting a 78 king pin dana 60 under it i am going to coil spring it i was wondering whats the best way? i have some pucks from dennis arpenter and i also have ones cut from a dana 44 i can hone those out split them and weld them in. Or weld the pucks and bolt radius arms back then make a track bar mount. any ideas which idea is best?

4 link is best

there is no "best" suspension. 4-link has typically been to norm for a build like that, but just look at all the moon buggy guys running 3-link with panhard setups. Any suspension that is setup correctly will provide more flex than anyone will ever need (yes even leaf springs). Just start looking at what other people have done, and figure out what path you want to go, there's a million tricks and small things to remember in each.

Start readin man. A tuned suspension is a tuned suspension.... Whether it be deaver( long travel ) leafs, wristed radius arms with coils/coil overs/air shoxs, three link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs, four link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs.... What ever the hell you decide to run, it will need to be tuned. Any of those combinations can provide a good ride, good flex, and be fabricated.

The question is, what do you have the ability to do... Or the money to pay some one else to do.

We have information here, but you have to take the first step...:smokin:

Start reading.

thanks for all the suggestions but not what i was looking for i am going to coil spring the front end very simlar to the factory set up was just wondering which of the 2 ways i found our best. thanks.

Goose

Start readin man. A tuned suspension is a tuned suspension.... Whether it be deaver( long travel ) leafs, wristed radius arms with coils/coil overs/air shoxs, three link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs, four link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs.... What ever the hell you decide to run, it will need to be tuned. Any of those combinations can provide a good ride, good flex, and be fabricated.

The question is, what do you have the ability to do... Or the money to pay some one else to do.

We have information here, but you have to take the first step...:smokin:

Start reading.

there is no "best" suspension. 4-link has typically been to norm for a build like that, but just look at all the moon buggy guys running 3-link with panhard setups. Any suspension that is setup correctly will provide more flex than anyone will ever need (yes even leaf springs). Just start looking at what other people have done, and figure out what path you want to go, there's a million tricks and small things to remember in each.


would you like it shoved down your mouth with a silver spoon??? both setup will work great if you tune it right!!!

man I try to be nice one time :shaking:

The Dana 60 swap into the 1/2 ton coil spring suspension has been covered extensively here, most Bronco sites, and many Ford truck sites. Its probably the most popular swap next to just the standard solid axle swap(SAS) with just a solid 1/2 ton axle(in later IFS models). Search and read this site and others, and there should be very few questions left to ask. It sounds like you already have an incline what to do with the wedges and fabbing a track bar mount. Do your best to duplicate the original locations, caster and pinion angle, and steering/track bar geometry from your existing axle and get going. The cast wedges machined and split will be much less work in the long run than the aftermarket ones unless you can stick them on the 60 tube and the width across point to point is exactly the same as the stock 44. Plus it already has the track bar mount incorporated in the right wedge. Most aftermarket ones are about 5/8" too long.

Not to hijack but what are some of the other F-150 and Bronco Sites?

Thanks,

C.

The Dana 60 swap into the 1/2 ton coil spring suspension has been covered extensively here, most Bronco sites, and many Ford truck sites. Its probably the most popular swap next to just the standard solid axle swap(SAS) with just a solid 1/2 ton axle(in later IFS models). Search and read this site and others, and there should be very few questions left to ask. It sounds like you already have an incline what to do with the wedges and fabbing a track bar mount. Do your best to duplicate the original locations, caster and pinion angle, and steering/track bar geometry from your existing axle and get going. The cast wedges machined and split will be much less work in the long run than the aftermarket ones unless you can stick them on the 60 tube and the width across point to point is exactly the same as the stock 44. Plus it already has the track bar mount incorporated in the right wedge. Most aftermarket ones are about 5/8" too long.

Start readin man. A tuned suspension is a tuned suspension.... Whether it be deaver( long travel ) leafs, wristed radius arms with coils/coil overs/air shoxs, three link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs, four link with coil/coil overs/air shoxs.... What ever the hell you decide to run, it will need to be tuned. Any of those combinations can provide a good ride, good flex, and be fabricated.

The question is, what do you have the ability to do... Or the money to pay some one else to do.

We have information here, but you have to take the first step...:smokin:

Start reading.

They have great points>> either way is not all that simple(fab. work both ways) the aftermarket wedges have to be cut down to fit the 60(no matter what they tell u, jeffs graveyard) as for the caps will not bolt together, i have seen people put spacers in,( there was a guy on this site that starting making the wedges to fit 60's but i dont think his health is good) as far as the stock wedges with the track mount, be careful with your angle.Do some searching.i promise u will find what you need!!!!!!!!!!

thanks for all yall suggestions. i will research all of them.


goose.

I just installed a 60 in my bronco, bought the wedges from duffy, ground a little on all four to make them fit nice. Still had to make 3/8" spacers. I would have liked to do the cage arms, but didn't have the cash....

fullsizebronco.com has a whole section in the forums for sas and look under the tech articles on projectbronco.com.

Honestly the stock type c-wedges and bushings won't give you a whole lot of articulation because as the axle articulates it must smash the bushings. One system I really like is to fab up your own radius arms using hiems. If you put a single link, with one hiem on the axle end and one hiem on the chassis end, on the drivers side. Then make a triangulated link with one hiem on the chassis end and then a heim on top and on bottom of the differential, for the passenger side. This system will give you zero resistance to articulate.