Does anyone know the part # or product name of a bolt on chevy motor mount to fit my 78 chevy blazer????

I neeD to know asap will order asap


RC

http://arrisconsultants.com

Go here: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/

You do know you'll need solid mounts thru out....right?
Why are you wanting solids? Just curious.

I think these pics may help check it!!!

I dont wont to go thru this again or do you have some nice ideas. my TH350 is getting rebuild in the morning, may have it back by friday then got to put it back in then a doubler ect,ect,ect you know. Everyone is saying go ridgid!!!!!

Im not going to lie to you have have a torky motor, 300 horse??? nothing special but it is enoungh to really give me frame flex bad. Leading factor to this damage



http://arrisconsultants.com

Looks like you have problems elsewhere. If you go solid motor mounts you need to go solid the rest of the way down.....trans and Tcase mounts too.

If you're having bad frame flex...stiffen the frame. I don't think going rigid with engine/trans/Tcase will help.....if the frame still flexes enough. It sounds like by going rigid with engine/trans/Tcase your going to make that combo a stressed member.....meaning your wanting to stiffen the frame by using the driveline as a stressed member to the frame. Maybe I am missing your point.....?

since I have gone to cross over steer I have a special cross-member under oil pan complete side to side and my doubler cross member is also same way. By the way also after taking out the damaged parts found out the damage I had a few loose bolts on rubber motor mount which created allot of motor roll this didn't help either.

http://arrisconsultants.com

Looks like you have problems elsewhere. If you go solid motor mounts you need to go solid the rest of the way down.....trans and Tcase mounts too.

If you're having bad frame flex...stiffen the frame. I don't think going rigid with engine/trans/Tcase will help.....if the frame still flexes enough. It sounds like by going rigid with engine/trans/Tcase your going to make that combo a stressed member.....meaning your wanting to stiffen the frame by using the driveline as a stressed member to the frame. Maybe I am missing your point.....?

You, sir, are not a very smart man, if youre advocating solid mounting an engine and transfer case. the transmission and transfer case should NEVER EVER EVER FUCKING EVER be solid mounted in ANY SITUATION. they need to be allowed to move. the frame will flex more than the engine and trans, and that is what breaks them. flex, and the weight of a transfer case hanging off of the back of a weak transmission housing. if you cant support the transfer case, dont bother bolting it on. but if you bolt it down solid, you had better be ready to buy a new one anyway, because it WILL break.

dont try to stiffen the engine/trans/transfer case. its already stiff. try giving it the ability to let the surrounding components flex, instead of it.

since I have gone to cross over steer I have a special cross-member under oil pan complete side to side and my doubler cross member is also same way. By the way also after taking out the damaged parts found out the damage I had a few loose bolts on rubber motor mount which created allot of motor roll this didn't help either.

http://arrisconsultants.com

hmmm what does "http://arrisconsultants.com" have to do with the transfer case mount?

beyond that, if you want to mount something, look at some photos...

the frame of any 73-87 chevy pickup will flex around 10 inches from side to side if measured from one end of the frame to the other. if you mounted the engine solid in this frame, the frame will flex less, and load the engine more. I would not suggest bolting the engine down solid. I would, however, suggest buying quality motor mounts and bolting them down solidly. poly mounts are a great thing. rigid mounting is for concrete. Even a tube framed rig flexes.

this photo shows a truck lifted by a forklift and you can see the frame flex.
http://images.cardomain.com/member_images/11/web/515000-515999/515219_68_full.jpg

edit: this thread shows a few photos of frame flex on chevys
here (http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=676399&highlight=frame+flex)

take some hints from this thread http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=623529&page=3

if you cant support the transfer case, dont bother bolting it on.
By looking at the doubler pic it looks like you only have 1 x-member . That might be alot of your problem right there. Hangin 240lbs. off 1 x-member is not good.

Grumpy you're right....I did not think that all the way through......although, I was thinking from drag car setups where you don't solid mount JUST the motor. Sorry for posting with a half thoughtout answer. I should have made it more clear, but from re-reading my answer....I DO NOT see any advocating for going soild. I did say I didn't think it was a good idea making driveline a stressed member with a flexing frame.

PS. And I am NOT advocating solid mounting any driveline component in a 4x4.

You are far better off investing in a good cage that ties into all the suspension mounts... If you solid mount your drive train it will just break easier.

without movement from motor/tranny/t-case mounts...im your case solid motor mounts...which resticts movment...puts more stress on other parts...bellhsouing, tailhousing, motor mount bolt holes...etc

I had a similar problem, i kept destroying my tranny mounts and ended up crackin my Tcase houseing, found that my frame was slightly twisted. Went out and bought some polyueratane tranny mounts and it fixed the problem.

did you just answer your own post???