i just finished parting out and cutting up my old blazer and seeing how the gas tanks in my truck(76 chevy swb, 6" lift, mild 350/sm465/d44/14bff, 4 wheel disk brakes, locker in the rear, etc ) are full of rust and dirt i held onto the blazers gas tank and both mounting X-members to put in the rear of the trucks frame sometime down the road..

well down the road turned into now, its amazing how that can happen, i have a 6 week deadline to get the truck road/sand worthy... i just wanted to see if anyone has ever done this before(im sure people have) and how hard it actully was...

are the lines the same?

would i be better off just getting the old tanks boiled and coated?

the truck as getting a flatbed at the same time as the tank swap, so the tank mounting and filler neck location arnt issues...

ill put up pics of the truck and this whole project when its not dark so i can take some

i just dealt with this. the swb i have had a bazer tank hacked into the rear of the frame.

blazer frames are 3"-/+ wider between the rails than truck, so if you want it between the rail you will have to cut strips out of each side. you will also have to clearance a couple of the bed runners/support rails for it to seat the flange to the frame like it should be.



i made a frame and placed the entire tank in the bed.

im pretty glad i asked, that doesnt seem like its to bad, cutting stripes out of the frame sounds time consuming but a easy thing to do...

do you have any pictures of what you did?

in my build up there is pics of what i built.

i could get some of what they did to the frame.

they messed it up pretty good. the rear of the frame is full of factory holes and rivots that need to be removed, when they cut it down it removes about half of the section and thats what the suspension brackets need for support. it also makes that entire strip very flimsy and can easy be hammerd around, its not good.

i see what your sayin... what do you think about if i made brackets to mount the tank from the top just sunk down enough, untill the widest point of the tank is hits the rail? then notch the rail just a little for clearence... since my truck is going to have a flatbed i will have alot of extra room between the bottom of the bed and the top of the frame...

they are square up the sides, it must be cut to sink more that the 1/2" radious on the edge.

i used the stock straps to hold it down to my framing, i just shortend them some because the flange is closer to the top of the tank.

i would put it from the top down if i had a flatbed. i have to make room for my winch and 14b and 3's a crowd.

I have just put a suburban tank in my brothers 77 long bed no frame trimming was needed. Also I used one of the crossmembers that was all ready in the truck, just moved it to the rear, and made another for the front. Not SUB/Blazer pieces. I can get some pics of what I built if you'd like...

I did that to my '80 k10 stepside. Used a tank and one crossmember from a '75 blazer. I did not have to cut the frame. It was also the bigger blazer fuel tank. Used the blazer fuel straps and skidplate too. Sending unit read right, not too big of a deal to do.

i have both the crossmembers from the rear of the blazer frame, i was going to just drill holes in the frame and bolt them in so i can use all the straps,skidplate, etc from the blazer..

pictures would be cool


i know i can handle the job, and once i get it torn down i know that i can make somthing work, but with limited space and time constraints i wanted to get a idea of what i was getting oin store for before i started...

It shouldn't take to long if you have the bed off.I used both rear crossmembers for the Blazer fuel tank and just drilled the frame for them. I did remove the stock rear crossmember. I used the Blazer hard fuel line and then just cut it near the tank selector valve and connected it to the org. line with a short piece of hose. I sold the truck a few months ago and I don't have any pics of the fuel tank install. I had a reciever hitch bolted to the bottom of the frame and there were no clearance issues with it either.

What did you guys do for the fuel fill?
Ive been considering this swap for my truck. But Im not crazy about cutting a giant hole in the bed for the fill cap. Post some pics.

i cut down and aimed a blazer filler neck. kragen had some bitchen fuel neck soft hose but its 1-1/2" and 2" and $80 each. i still have 4' left if somebody wantes to buy it and save them selfs some cash.