I really know nothing about clutches, as in which ones are good and which ones are not. Also, heavy duty models, or not? Any input is appreciated. Vehicle - 1995 S10, 4.3, NV3500, NP231C-HD, D60/D60, 40" TSL. Not street driven, and run very hard offroad.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/315858909.jpg

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/315858913.jpg

lol... no clutch will like what you did.

next time, let off the clutch, THEN start driving. If its slipping like that one was when it engages, it will surely self destruct.

if you want to drive like that, get a bronze puck type clutch with a sprung center. just know that you will have to change pressure plates and flywheels 2x as often, and be sure to get a scattersheild or something thick between the floor and your feet.

looks like you decided to dynamite the clutch. looks like your feet are lucky survivors, too. at least the disc came apart and not the pressure plate.. Im sure its not far behind.

spend the money if you want to keep it.

You probably need lower t-case gears, but failing that:

I love the Centerforce II in my buggy. It has better engagement, feel and grab (even if the centrifugal weights don't do much for me) than any other clutch that's been in the truck (this is the third one in 30 years).

I like LUK too. Make sure you get a diaphragm type clutch.

well, if youre going to drop the clutch at 5000 rpm or higher, you wont want a diaphram clutch. they hang right around 4500 and when you let off the gas, they grab at the most inopportune moment. Use a long style, or a borg and beck style if you want to let it go at high rpm.

just make sure you have a scattershield.

Holy shit! How many miles are on that thing? It looks almost new! I'd say you were just a tad hard on that one guy...:eek: I'd agree; if you're going to be doing drag-style high RPM launches, a metallic puck style clutch would be the way to go. However, they are not without their drawbacks so I'd try to alter my driving style a little rather than go that route if possible. That said, I'm running a 12" Centerforce Dual Friction. I've heard good and bad about them, but I've pounded this one fairly hard (not as hard as yours...:flipoff2:) and it's always been predictable and rock solid under even the heaviest pull. Of course, I engage the clutch and THEN tromp the throttle...

What is this scattershield you speak of? Just a thick plate to prevent anything from coming through the floor incase it explodes?

When this failed, I was actually coasting backwards down hill with the clutch pedal on the floor. All the sudden, something let go and it felt like I let the pedal up. About put my head through the back of the seat.

FYI guys, I don't know that its me that did this. I only really have to trips on this truck - one to Badlands, and one to Silver Lake (sand dunes). I didn't do anything to abuse it and didn't do any clutch dumps or excessive slipping. Worst I did was some hill climbing at both places. I don't know how old this clutch is, or how the previous owner drove it when it was stock. Or maybe this has something to do with it?

http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL81/1991351/8209696/315858914.jpg

if I had to do a failure analysis on this clutch, i would say shock loading did it.

what do i know... I quit using clutches years ago, after i got good enough to change one in less than 2 hours using hand tools. (sm465/np205 in a blazer framed pos that i mud raced, and bashed on the mountains.) I used to LOVE the expression on the face of the flagger at the starting line as my exwife would push in the clutch, hold it down, and put the go-pedal to the floor while he put the other racer in place on the starting line... 6300 rpm takeoffs are hell on a clutch.

a scattershield?
http://www.72chevelle.com/images/engpics/pic160.jpg

basically, its a thick steel bellhousing that will contain a clutch explosion.

FYI guys, I don't know that its me that did this. I only really have to trips on this truck - one to Badlands, and one to Silver Lake (sand dunes). I didn't do anything to abuse it and didn't do any clutch dumps or excessive slipping. Worst I did was some hill climbing at both places. I don't know how old this clutch is, or how the previous owner drove it when it was stock. Or maybe this has something to do with it?

Wow. If you didn't abuse it, then I'd say yes, your pic has something to do with it. A clutch will take a terrific load if the load is applied after the clutch is fully engaged. Hill climbing won't hurt a non-slipping clutch at all. As long as it doesn't slip, you're not hurting it but no clutch will tolerate excessive slipping an still live a long life. If you aren't doing anything particularly abusive (high RPM launches, slipping), I'd say get a high quality, domestically manufactured stock or performance replacement. Like I said, I like my Centerforce DF, but really, if you're not going to be doing any heavy towing/hauling and you're not abusing it, the Dual Friction is probably not necessary. I got it because I do occasionally do some towing with this truck, and I wanted the supposed extra capacity. It drives and engages as nicely as a stocker, locks up with authority, looked to be really well built, and I've been happy with it.

EDIT: By looking at the original picture and assuming you did this with a 5000RPM clutch dump, I would have definitely agreed; you need a scatter shield. However, if you don't do the high RPM launches and your rig is just used hard offroad, you wouldn't need one. They are nice to have, but are primarily used to contain a clutch/flywheel explosion so the shrapnel doesn't come through the floor and saw your legs off. They are only really necessary in racing where high RPM clutch use is standard practice.

Hey knaffie, there is a company in Lansing that builds custom clutchs, they do everthing from mild stock type to top fuel cars, I'm pretty sure there name is clutch dynamics, might be worth a phone call.


Brewchief:D

I'll check them out. Thanks.