I have an 87 ranger 4x4 a 5.0HO, a np435, and a sterling 10.25" rear axle. I'm looking to turn this truck into my go fast toy but I don't want to have different lug patterns front and rear.

I first thought about finding a F250 or F350 with the TTB and cutting that shit up and basically only using from the inner C's outward.

Then I thought about the E-250/350 vans. Those have beams up front don't they.

I plan to turn the truck into a 2wd. I have the capability to fabricate and I'm kinda good at it. Just never done any work with IFS or beams before.

One last question. Instead of radius arms for the beams could you use 2 links one upper and one lower to avoid bad steering geometry or better anti dive.

http://www.dezertrangers.com/vb/showthread.php?t=69894\

i think this would be a good truck to model yours after.

don't think your two link radius arm idea would help with the camber change at all because the beams are what cause the problem.

One last question. Instead of radius arms for the beams could you use 2 links one upper and one lower to avoid bad steering geometry or better anti dive.

It can definately be done. In fact that is how some of the roughriders ford were. I believe that Dave Ashley's truck was done that way.

If you are looking to go 2wd, the 1" kingpin equal length beams out of an older F250 or 350 would be a good starting point.

Funny, I was pondering going the other way. I know of 2 early F-250's with twin I beam I was thinking about converting to TTB. Probably would be pretty easy. I was thinking of long sector shaft later Ford boxes or IH Saginaws for front steer.

If you are looking to go 2wd, the 1" kingpin equal length beams out of an older F250 or 350 would be a good starting point.

Do you have an approximate year range, and about what might they go for at a pick and pull. Thanks everyone for the help.

I think around 88 the one ton Ford 2wd's were Twin I Beams...

Jason :)

Do you have an approximate year range, and about what might they go for at a pick and pull. Thanks everyone for the help.

off the top of my head i'd say mid '70s to early '80s. i know my '85 f-250 diesel had them. you'll want the ones that are front steer knuckles.

hit up www.dezertrangers.com and you'll probably find exactly what you need. you should be able to grab them for less than $100 at pick n pull

the beams on our ,94 1-ton diesel van are extremly stout and longer than the ones on the 1/2-ton, but those are ball joint knuckles.

Thanks for all the help. I am mostly concerned with getting the front suspension a little wider to match the rear closely and to have 8 by 6.5 lug pattern all around. I would kinda like to avoid ball joints as this vehicle will most likely see air time again, but I was just laid off and need to be frugal. So if I find anything cheap that will work I guess I will go that route.

I went to pnp looking to do the same on my ranger, i was told by several people that the vans were the way to go,...the vans that i found were all alot longer on the one side (drivers side if i remember correctly) whereas the late 70's pickups were the same length on both sides..
post up when you figure out which way youre going to go... most of the other places ive looked, people are just buying beams or lengthening their stock ones, but i like the cheap route...

Well it will probably be awhile as I was just laid off from work and my projects have been put on hold.

When you get around to it, try 1 ton van I beams from a 1976 and up Ford van, with the seperate chassis. IIRC they were still kingpin and the ends were staight. You got some free lift and the big brakes too. We used to get them from a company that converted vans to 4wd.

When you get around to it, try 1 ton van I beams from a 1976 and up Ford van, with the seperate chassis. IIRC they were still kingpin and the ends were staight. You got some free lift and the big brakes too. We used to get them from a company that converted vans to 4wd.

when you say separate chassis, what are you talking about?? like the motorhome type chassis?? are those all duallys?? did you actually run these or just hear about it ?? did you have to bend the beams to correct the camber?? did you make new mounts for the beams or just modify the ranger ones??
thanks

Yeah what 440scout said.

I may be a broke dick now but the gears are still spinning in my head and I would still like to do this.

If using uneven length beams would the shorter beam have more extreme camber change throughout the suspension travel? Is this a problem and how is it remedied? I do plan on building a swing set steering setup when I get to this so some input on that would be appreciated(I know how they work, just looking for things to watch out for). Thank you guys.

If you already plan on running swingset it would proably be easiest to build around equal length beams. Look around on dezertrangers and see how people did it there. I know you can buy prefabbed equal length beam mounts.

If you do go with unequal length beams, the camber change difference between the to sides will be negligable- probably only a few degrees you will never notice in the driver's seat. The problem with unequal length beams your swingset steering will also be "unequal length".

Unless you really want to try and keep the stock beam pivot locations, i'd go equal length.

Jeez, sorry I have not checked back in a month! The 1976 and up ford vans had a seperate frame (like a pickup truck and just like they are today). The vans prior to that were unibody. I can't remember if the I beams on the E-350's were equal length or not. The 1976 and up 1 tons were straight though and had no drop in the end of the axle. They were not duallys, most had 460's and a C6 in them. This was over 30 years ago and I don't remember for sure but we may have used the Van frame mounts for the I beam so that we did not have to bend the beam. There was a guy that was running around with an early style van that had his I beams flipped. The drop section faced down, he must have swapped the beams side to side and must have had to swap the spindles side to side also to maintain the proper camber and caster. (Or something close).

Well if it matters for anything, I'm getting ready to have John from Autofab work over some beams for my 81 F250. I'll be keeping all the 8lug stuff and he'll be making them bent beams that should cycle a little better have with glass fenders have enough clearence for 35s. I'm already set in the back with picking up a Deaver F53 race pack and FOA is gona supply the shocks.

I have a job again so that means one thing, a "simple", cheap project turns into a monster. I found a Really mint CJ5 body. I am waiting for the owner to make contact with me. If I acquire this body I will probably just torch the front part of the frame off of the van of my choosing and fabricate the rest of the frame. As the 2.9ltr V6 and 5 speed from the 87 ranger run great I will probably use them as I don't have the money to rebuild the 5.0 in the garage even though I would probably be much happier with a stroked small block V8. I guess I could always slap that sucker in later as I have a couple NP435 sitting arround. I know they are not the best go fast tranny but I have them available. Even though my plans are going crazy I still want to use what I have. Convince me to build around a V8. One last thing, what are the diferences between 302's and 5.0's. Do heads and intakes swap, what about bottom end components. My 5.0 has H.O. on it if that makes a difference, and it has sat for a very long time so I'm sure it could use some time at a machine shop.

302 and 5.0 are basically the same engine. The 5.0 engine generally refers to the fuel injected ones and the 302 is carbed. It is pretty much a matter of semantics.

Zukiford87, if you are still interested int the 2wd front i beam suspension i have got an old 88 E350 van i am converting into a 4wd. I am taking the van body off and have an elcamino in line for the frame. I would like to know if you would like to swap parts straight across. Front 4wd axle with front 8 lug i beam suspension?

Been a while since i checked this. The owner of that cj tub was more than content to let it rot as opposed to let some one else make use of it. I took that as a sign to focus on the big project(88.5 samurai) and tinker with the small project (73 J-4000).
Thanks to everyone who indulged my delusions of granduer, but this idea will probably stay just that; an idea.