Anyone run one? Just wanting to know how they hold up.

A 44 is a 44, no matter who it's made by. Hold up to what?

I've always heard Currie makes great stuff, but just wandering how they hold up as a kind of all-around axle, pushing 35"s. Mostly trails, some mud in said trails, occasional rock bed, or hill climb, ect. I live in Indiana, so I guess I'm kinda limited to what ever I can find here, with possibly the one time trip to Moab, or what ever.

Front or rear? If you are referring to a rear, just buy a stock XJ version and build it. If you are referring to the front- I would recommend and HP44 and would make sure that they do not butt-weld the inner C's to the axle tubes. Make sure the C's are pressed onto the tubes and welded.

It doesn't matter who builds it, it matters what parts they use. If it's a front with Spicer axles and u-joints it's the same no matter who builds it, same as the rear. It's the internal parts, not the builder, that makes an axle better or worse.

Well, as more and more is discovered, the shell alone will run $1000 +shipping, another $1800 for gears, axle shafts, bearings, and ARB locker, and another $500? to set it all up. So I may not go Currie, considering Solid has one ready to instal -knuckles, hubs, and brakes, that I could get right now for about $2,600.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=646694&highlight=currie+44

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=646694&highlight=currie+44

Already saw that thread, looks like it was sold 2 months ago and doesn't really help.

Already saw that thread, looks like it was sold 2 months ago and doesn't really help.

Doesnt look like its was sold to me, last post on it was 2 months ago, but nothing ever said about being sold... Maybe I missed it.

Well, as more and more is discovered, the shell alone will run $1000 +shipping, another $1800 for gears, axle shafts, bearings, and ARB locker, and another $500? to set it all up. So I may not go Currie, considering Solid has one ready to instal -knuckles, hubs, and brakes, that I could get right now for about $2,600.

And you are talking about $2600 for a 44. :shaking:

Bottom line cost should be your determining driver in selecting one source over another:D

Front high pinion D44's are either full size--read very wide, or they are custom, if you want them to fit under your rig like factory.
So you need to decide what you want, then price the alternatives on an "oranges" to "oranges" basis;IE chrome Molly axles vs chrome Molly axles, and ARB vs ARB, all brackets installed, or not, etc.
When I was deciding on which way to go, what I wanted costs lots of money, no matter who built it. The least cost was to build it myself.
I had Currie shorten a '79 F150 housing to my specs, as a starter, including pinion and caster angles. They botched it--twice!
So if you do buy from Currie (not a lot of choices out there), be very careful on what you order. Insure everything is in writing. And before you weld anything to the axle inspect the axle housing very closely to insure such things as correct pinion angle as well as caster and camber, on Both sides. Don't assume, that just because they, or anyone else you choose, for that matter, are the "experts", that it will be done right.

And you are talking about $2600 for a 44. :shaking:

That advertised Currie D44 has D30 outers, which is the typical way Currie builds them for TJ's. Who would want that? The only way it's pretty good is if you spend the $$ for a 30 spline Warn 5 on 5.5 kit for the D30, which is actually stronger axle wise than the D44 stub but you don't get the bigger D44 brakes or stronger D44 knuckles and C's or the high steer arms, and it's more money.

I keep forgetting how cheep the JK 44's are, $2,800 for both is cheeper than most front D44's I've found, in addition to having discs, cross over steering, larger ball joints, larger bolt pattern, and wider track. The big reason I was trying to stay away from them was the amount of custom work that would need to go into using them. I guess the $1500-2000 I'd save trying to buy/build XJ/TJ D44's could easily cover the cost of the mounting brackets and mods to the steering and brakes to make everything work correctly. Besides, if the JK tubes have a tendency of cracking, I guess I could have them sleeved. As for finding a shop, I don't know of many 4WD shops around here besides Four Wheel Parts, but I live in Indianapolis, and it is said to be "The Racing Capitol of the World". Surely there has to be a shop capable of doing the work, even if they aren't used to doing 4X4 stuff.

I keep forgetting how cheep the JK 44's are, $2,800 for both is cheeper than most front D44's I've found, in addition to having discs, cross over steering, larger ball joints, larger bolt pattern, and wider track. The big reason I was trying to stay away from them was the amount of custom work that would need to go into using them. I guess the $1500-2000 I'd save trying to buy/build XJ/TJ D44's could easily cover the cost of the mounting brackets and mods to the steering and brakes to make everything work correctly. Besides, if the JK tubes have a tendency of cracking, I guess I could have them sleeved. As for finding a shop, I don't know of many 4WD shops around here besides Four Wheel Parts, but I live in Indianapolis, and it is said to be "The Racing Capitol of the World". Surely there has to be a shop capable of doing the work, even if they aren't used to doing 4X4 stuff.

Dont think the NAXJA crowd is going to give you a good answer??? LOL...

Dont think the NAXJA crowd is going to give you a good answer??? LOL...

LOL, caught me:D, just trying to get as much info as possible.

That advertised Currie D44 has D30 outers, which is the typical way Currie builds them for TJ's. Who would want that? The only way it's pretty good is if you spend the $$ for a 30 spline Warn 5 on 5.5 kit for the D30, which is actually stronger axle wise than the D44 stub but you don't get the bigger D44 brakes or stronger D44 knuckles and C's or the high steer arms, and it's more money.


Me. I have a Currie D44 hp and I prefer the unit bearing to the warn internal hub, no contest. I have had one unit bearing wear out in 113,000 miles. My friends and I have had several issues with the CJ style outers/hubs over the years. If you are going to run hubs, run the f150 stuff.

Most of the issues with external hubs are cured by running drive flanges, then the difference is greatly reduced. Granted I do run 35's or 37's max on my tj.

I know why Currie does it, it just surprises some people who don't check into it well that they still get the D30 outers. The issue to me is strength, and not wanting the stock size D30 stubs. I guess you could also go to the 30 spline Superior stubs and hubs, which wouldn't be a bad way to go if you didn't want hubs, the stub would be stronger than the D44 stub. I have no problem with unit bearings, I have them on the D60 in the buggy. I just figure if someone is going through the expense of swapping in a D44, it would be nice to get the stronger D44 outers and bigger brakes, and for many the hubs are desirable.

Mostly, I pointed it out because I know so many people who got new front D44's not realizing until after they recieved it that they got it with the D30 outers. If that's what you want, fine, and with the 30 spline stubs the outers are stronger than D44 stubs. Basically then, since you can put 30 spline axles in a D30, the entire expense and work of going to a D44 would get you only the D44 ring and pinion and carrier. Not bad, as long as you know what you're spending your money on.

if money is teh issue, go JK axles, really hard to beat. If quality is the main issue, go with Currie, Solid, Mad4wd, etc. remember that your shit will eventually break, so go witha vendor that will help you out when it happens I believe Currie had a warranty policy helping buyers who break their stuff. Currie's stuff is top notch.