Last weekend when I was putting in my TT, I noticed that when I disconnected the front driveshaft from the pinion, the shaft didn't drop all the way to the floor. The front was on jackstands, but only enough to remove the tires (tires were about 1"-1.5" off the ground). The end of the shaft was suspended about 4" above the ground. The CV joint at the t-bax was maxed out. Will this be an issue when my P/S goes into full droop? Remember, the picts from a week or so ago were of the D/S in full droop, not the P/S. Should I be concerned about my shaft binding? Would going in there with a grinder and clearancing the joint a little hurt (if I was VERY careful)?

I wouldn't grind on that shaft at all. I am sure you saw the thread of mine exploding (due to excess uj slop) But I wouldn't be worried about it binding up. It doesn't bind on my truck and I am pretty sure that I have more flex up front (at least from the pics you supplied) We ran it up a 25 degree ramp on both sides to check for binding and clearance issues and the driveshaft was not a problem. Just make sure to keep checking those uj and if the shaft has a significant amount of wear I'd replace the uj with napa 344's they are actually stronger and have larger needle bearings. They aren't exactly cheap 30ish dollars but are a lot cheaper (90 v 250+) than a new shaft. It isn't that hard to change them out and are definately worth the piece of mind. I would especially do it if you have changed the height of the truck significantly (3 or more inches) I wish that I would have done it earlier I might have saved my first shaft.

-ben

Thanks Ben. I appreciate the heads up on the NApa joints as well. Taking it out this weekend so I'll see if it binds.

Do either of you guys know anyone that has a used front DII driveshaft?? I was thinking about putting one on my D1. I now have about 4-41/2" of lift on my truck, and I need to replace my driveshaft on the double. I figured a used D2 shaft would work, if I added some adaptor plates, and they might even be a little cheaper that some of the other CV shafts. Also, if you guys happen to know where I could find a CV Jointed Front driveshaft anywhere else please let me know.

yes I run a dsII shaft on my defender and I know a couple of other people who do too. You do have to get an adaptor plate for the transfer case side. Like I said above rebuild it. You might be able to find one for cheap but it's not always easy. Other people who make cv or cardon shafts are Safari Gard, Great Basins Rovers, and I'm about to get a set from Jess at high angle driveline so I'll post about that when they come in.

-ben

Ben,


Did you have to lengthen the driveshaft at all? And also are the shafts pretty stout, I would hate to snap one. Do you know anyone who makes the adapter plates, or will I have to make one on my own? Thanks for the help

no you don't need to lengthen the shaft it telescopes I think something like 4+ inches. If they are rebuilt they are pretty tough and if you can find one they aren't very expensive. The adapter is just a front output flange for the transfercase on a DII. I have one in my hand and all it says on it is DS21 I'm sure that's not the part number but it might help in identifying it. Hopefully you know someone at the dealership because you can get that adapter for I think 40 some odd bucks with their discount but without it I think the adapter is like 70 something bucks, which with the used shaft and the rebuild will aproach the cost of a new one from GBR and SG. So I guess if cost is an issue go with the DSII shaft. I blew one up but it was because I didn't take care of my UJ (never replaced them after running on another truck and my truck with different size lifts) Any more questions fire away

-ben

The DII driveshafts don't have greasable joints do they? For that reason alone, I would go with a Tom Woods shaft. $425 shipped includes the plate.

Maybe "high angle" or whatever one is affiliated with this site would be a good avenue to check out as well.

Tom

sure they have greaseable joints you just have to either take it apart or put a zerk fitting in it. Not difficult and not hard. But no from the factory they are not greaseable. However I'm on my second DSII shaft and I haven't spent a third of the tom woods cost. However I'm expecting to pay a pretty good amount to Jess at high angle driveline. They work but need to be watched carefully for wear especially loose UJ.

-ben

Ben,

So basically I could just take the front Flange off of my Disco 1 and replace it with the D2 flange and shaft and be good to go. I just want to be sure before I get into it. Are you sure the shaft will be able to take the articulation of the front end. I have regular OME shocks, but when I made my spring spacer I mounted the shock through the top of the spacer. Again I just want to be sure. Thanks for your help

Brad