Just wanted to drop a note that I finally got around to doing a full brake job on my 98 CTD.

Stock front replacement rotors and pads, and went with the GM cylinder upgrade in the rear (rear shoes were fine, not even being used from improper adjustment).

All I can say is - WOW.


The combination has me stopping literally better than it EVER has stopped before, and the brake is at the top of the pedal and right there with very little effort.

If you haven't been happy with your CTD brakes, I think the GM cylinder upgrade is a dirt cheap (less than $20 for the pair) upgrade that really works.

What was the application for the GM wheel cylinders? I've been meaning to do this, but haven't ever gotten around to it yet.

Does the '98 use a hydroboost or did they still use vacuum booster? I have no idea when they changed over to hydroboost, but I have seen some older CTDs that still used a vacuum booster.

Does the '98 use a hydroboost or did they still use vacuum booster? I have no idea when they changed over to hydroboost, but I have seen some older CTDs that still used a vacuum booster.

I *think* that '98 had hydroboost. My '95 has vacuum.

'97 was the first year for Hydro Boost. I did the GM cylinder upgrade in mine, but the upgrade really applies more to the older trucks. My '97 had Ø 1 1/16" bore cylinders stock, my friend's
'96 had smaller (Ø 15/16?) bore cylinders. IIRC the GM ones were Ø 1 1/8". I don't know if upgrading them is really worth the trouble on the '97+ trucks, I already had the GM ones by the time I realized what my stock ones were, and I had to replace at least one since I jacked it up removing it. But adjusting the rear brakes sure makes a difference on these trucks (as you discovered).

Pete

I don't know how much the cylinder upgrade did.

After 80,000 miles I pulled the drums because it occured to me that I hadn't checked the rear brakes while I had done the fronts 2 times in that time. Plus the braking felt like it was getting worse.

Pulled the drums, found damn near new shoes. The adjusters weren't/aren't working correctly. Re-adjusted, and WOW it brakes 100x better than it did before.

'97 was the first year for Hydro Boost. I did the GM cylinder upgrade in mine, but the upgrade really applies more to the older trucks. My '97 had Ø 1 1/16" bore cylinders stock, my friend's
'96 had smaller (Ø 15/16?) bore cylinders. IIRC the GM ones were Ø 1 1/8". I don't know if upgrading them is really worth the trouble on the '97+ trucks, I already had the GM ones by the time I realized what my stock ones were, and I had to replace at least one since I jacked it up removing it. But adjusting the rear brakes sure makes a difference on these trucks (as you discovered).

Pete

At 2500psi (which hydroboost can easily acheive) the difference between 1.125" bore cylinders and 1.0625" bore cylinders is about 540lbs. of apply force. At the same 2500psi, the difference between .9375" bore and 1.125" bore cylinders is about 1500lbs of apply force.

part # ? Sounds like an easy upgrade my 98 ctd lacks the stopping power i want as well.

chris

part # ? Sounds like an easy upgrade my 98 ctd lacks the stopping power i want as well.

chris

x3 on the part #....

What was the application for the GM wheel cylinders? I've been meaning to do this, but haven't ever gotten around to it yet.

I'll try to go out to the shop and get the AutoZone part # off one of the bags, but you can Google the Napa part number if you need that one.

I simply asked for a 1992 GM DRW truck rear wheel cylinders. Direct bolt on.

Does the '98 use a hydroboost or did they still use vacuum booster? I have no idea when they changed over to hydroboost, but I have seen some older CTDs that still used a vacuum booster.

Hydroboost.

BTW, I also found that one of my rear cylinders was developing a leak, so it was a good time to replace the cylinders.

The Raybestos part # is 37337. In case you forget I ordered the rear wheel cylinders for a '99 GMC 1 ton dually (the dually part is important). I found the bore to be 1 3/16" on mine (1.1875" bore). Have yet to put mine in. Did anybody have have to put a metric to SAE adapter (M10x1.0 to 3/8x24) on the wheel cylinder for the install?

I've been meaning to do this for a while now to my 98, I wanted to work on that and my steering because it'll dart into another lane under hard braking but only when towing. I had new rear cylinders put on it about a year ago but they went withe the OEM replacement, I didn't know about the upgrade option.

The Raybestos part # is 37337. In case you forget I ordered the rear wheel cylinders for a '99 GMC 1 ton dually (the dually part is important). I found the bore to be 1 3/16" on mine (1.1875" bore). Have yet to put mine in. Did anybody have have to put a metric to SAE adapter (M10x1.0 to 3/8x24) on the wheel cylinder for the install?

Yep, make sure you say DRW - dual rear wheels - if you have them look it up.

And mine were a direct replacement - no adapters needed.

Was his a 3/4 ton, 1 ton, dana 70 or 80.

I have a 95 1 ton that I might try thhis on.

Was his a 3/4 ton, 1 ton, dana 70 or 80.

I have a 95 1 ton that I might try thhis on.

Whose?


Mine is a 3/4 ton, 80 rear.

Just following up on DRM's rear wheel cylinder thread, I replaced the rear wheel cylinders this past weekend (I also had brand new rear pads because they've never worked right) and now I have to really get used to the pedal because it's like a completely different truck. I don't have to stand on the brakes anymore, it stops like it never has before. I didn't touch the fronts at all other than bleeding them when doing the rear and it's like night and day from before. Best $20 I've ever spent on a vehicle. took me an hour total for both sides.

I noticed that when I did the rear cylinders on my '98 3500 it made the rear lockup way too early, because the front brakes weren't 100% and I was using too much rear brake to stop..

So make sure the front's are 100% before you do this!

I noticed that when I did the rear cylinders on my '98 3500 it made the rear lockup way too early, because the front brakes weren't 100% and I was using too much rear brake to stop..

So make sure the front's are 100% before you do this!

I haven't noticed anything like that, I have about 5K miles on the front pads and rotors. I took it out in a slick wet parking lot a few nights ago and it didn't seem to lock up any different than before.

Ive got a 01 with disks so I cant comment on the rear swap but I did put some slotted rotors and hawk pads up front on my truck and almost ate the steering wheel first time I stopped. great upgrade for any truck.

The NAPA part is # 37337

Did it on my '95 CTD and it made a world of difference.

I believe on the 94-95 trucks the wheel cylinders were 24mm and on the 96-98 trucks they were 27 mm and the upgraded wheel cylinders are 30 mm, so it makes sense that this mod would help the early 2nd gens the most.

I'm looking @ doing this to my '98 if it doesn't sell. I haven't looked yet, but will the part numbers mentioned work the same on the 70u as the 80 rear?

I'm looking @ doing this to my '98 if it doesn't sell. I haven't looked yet, but will the part numbers mentioned work the same on the 70u as the 80 rear?

I believe so, and it's beyond a simple swap.

Ive got a 01 with disks so I cant comment on the rear swap but I did put some slotted rotors and hawk pads up front on my truck and almost ate the steering wheel first time I stopped. great upgrade for any truck.

Where are you guys getting the slotted rotors and hawk pads from? Any brand rotor in particular?

Where are you guys getting the slotted rotors and hawk pads from? Any brand rotor in particular?

Genos garage has jsut about everything you need for a dodge diesel.
http://www.genosgarage.com/prodinfo.asp?number=BRAKE-04-298.787P(2)

I got some slotted rotors off ebay, power slot IIRC.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dodge-Ram-1500-02-03-04-05-06-07-Slotted-Brake-Rotors-R_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a570Q7c66Q3a2Q7c 65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q 7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem310 114029664QQitemZ310114029664QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTr uckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories
these are half ton but look exactly like mine.

Heard about this before, but did not think it would make much of a difference. Since my truck is down, might as well upgrade my 96 since everything else is being changed.

Thanks for the part numbers.

I haven't noticed anything like that, I have about 5K miles on the front pads and rotors. I took it out in a slick wet parking lot a few nights ago and it didn't seem to lock up any different than before.

5k isn't a lot of wear.. I did mine before even looking at the front brakes, so they were well-worn..