Welcome to the next installment of the

Topic of the Week

There have been a stupid number of rigs getting ripped off recently.

How do you keep yours yours?

There are a number of obvious answers:
1. stored in a garage
2. alarm
3. big dog in the passenger seat
4. live in Alaska where you don't see another person for weeks

But lets talk about mods/gizmos/tricks that you can build or do to keep it from getting parted out by the local hooligans.

i like the idea of chainin it to the driveway. read that somewhere

just don't forget to unlock it :D


i thought about a time delay release of powdered CO2 into the passenger compartment if a hidden switch isn't pushed within 30 seconds of starting the engine, ever got caught in a cloud of that stuff, it'll drop you to your knees, and make you WANT to die.

for those people that own suzukis with a 2wd low conversion.....we can just lock it in low range or true neutral and they either cant drive more that 15mph or they cant move at all. coil bypass switches are hot in the import crowd. just run one of your coil wires through a concealed switch. i heard there is also a battery coming out that has a built in remote disable keychain toggle. kind of like a car alarm but when you hit the switch the battery turns off everything except your accesory line to your radio station presets and such. it also was supposed to have a system that waited until the car drives down the road and cuts off to simulate running out of gas. pretty clever if you ask me. if someone really wants your rig they are going to take it bottom line!! there are some ways out there to keep the honest people honest though!!

I always just take my rotor off if I'm gonna park somewhere for long periods of time. Like airport parking lots, or when my jeep is at home while I'm on vacation. Don't really have a short term anti-theft device though.... need one.

Originally posted by IndianaBlake
I always just take my rotor off if I'm gonna park somewhere for long periods of time. Like airport parking lots, or when my jeep is at home while I'm on vacation. Don't really have a short term anti-theft device though.... need one.

good idea!! i am going to have to remember that one!! it only works efficiently for those of us who dont have a keeper screw on the rotor. but i guess we all carry tools with us anyways!!

MOVE!

Live in place where you can leave your doors (House and jeep) unlocked.


Or:

Kill switch, remove a vital ignition piece, battery switch.

I have the Grant wheel gizmo on mine. The one that lets you take your steering wheel off. Cant steal it if you cant stear it.

Well not without a roll back, or a tow rig.

Plus you get pretty weird looks from everyone when you waltz in some place with your wheel in hand.

A battery cut off switch is about $5. I have one in my VW Bug. They are small, cheap, and easy to hide. Just one more key to put on the ring.

Later.

80# Red heeler, don't even need to lock the doors.

what about use one of the D shaped bike locks and locking your steering wheel to the roll cage...

I use my safety switches for the fuel pump, ignition and battery circuits.
I have a seperate switch in line with the fuel pump, and ignition so that I can use the starter to inch forward without starting the rig, and also to shut down the systems when upside down.

Hell if Im not thinking, I sometimes forget to turn all of the right switches, and I cant even figure out how to start my rig.

Originally posted by brimy311
what about use one of the D shaped bike locks and locking your steering wheel to the roll cage...

about as usefull as "the club"

takes about a second to hack through your steering wheel.

I had my neighbor come in my yard and tell me two dudes were in my truck. i went out and they were gone, i freaked out. i have half doors and they didn't open them, the alarm didn't go off, i think they were just looking for money or something to steal but I've been rattled since. My biggest fear is people organzing and getting a trailer to it. How do i make it so it can't be moved?? They can just take it out of gear. mabe lock it to a tree. I guess if they want it bad enough its gonna go, fawked.

Originally posted by Nobody


about as usefull as "the club"

takes about a second to hack through your steering wheel.

awww. he beat me to it. "the club"

but really. I've been thinking about this alot. was thinking of setting up an intricate series of switches, like 10-12, that must be set in the proper order to complete the circut for the run position on the ignition. sorta like a combonation lock to your jeep. then I realized that it would be extremely easy to just splice the first and last switch together. perhaps I could make such a complicated mess of wires under there that ran to and from the firewall with the last switch in the series not necessarily the last one on the dash. that would be so friggin confusing it would take anyone all night just to trace the wires.

Originally posted by redwilly
I had my neighbor come in my yard and tell me two dudes were in my truck. i went out and they were gone, i freaked out. i have half doors and they didn't open them, the alarm didn't go off, i think they were just looking for money or something to steal but I've been rattled since. My biggest fear is people organzing and getting a trailer to it. How do i make it so it can't be moved?? They can just take it out of gear. mabe lock it to a tree. I guess if they want it bad enough its gonna go, fawked.

i still like the rotor removal idea. just get under the hood and pull the rotor out of the disty. my football buddies would steal my enduro motorcycle at lunch time and ride it around. you could turn the key with a screwdriver or unplug is altogether so i just started taking the spark plug wire off. cheapo security cameras are good for residences nowadays. you can get a timelapse vCR for cheap and the cameras are about 75-100$. make sure the camera is highly visible fot deterrent purposes.


my favorite is the generic AA battery flashing LED. set it up and let it flash. most thieves will walk right on by rather than dealing with an alarm.....not that alarms are that much of a theft deterrent. nobody responds to them anymore because of so many false alarms. most alarm systems disable various systems in the car to make it unstealable without a tow-truck.

This guy has a pretty neat system. I haven't found the time to do it yet, but it's a pretty novel idea.

http://home.att.net/~email.id/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

(ADE Security System by Daless2)

Anyone have any pics of where they've hidden their cut off switches, battery kills, etc.? I want to install some kind of anti theft, but I want it to be convenient to do so I'll actually do it. Taking the rotor out, or pulling a coil wire or whatever are great for long term, but when I park it at the movie theatre I need something easy but effective. Any pics?

well first line of offinese is hank my 150 lb american bull dog..

i can leave it runnning goin and come back with no worries....

but ive installed a main switch.. i just went to cat and got one from them.. since i run heavy equipment i already carry a cat master key.. the trick is location location.. hide it~
sum place people never look..
fire wall behid where the heater useto be... teres a small cubby hole all the way up against the top.. yeah its a pain to reach sum times.. but its never gonna get found..

Just a CAT Ignition switch?
What'd you tap it into?

I think everyone should just buy and use those boots cops use to immoblize your car if you get to many unpaid parking tickets, easy to use and completely immoblizes veichel that they are installed in.

Originally posted by 1985CJ7Laredo
Anyone have any pics of where they've hidden their cut off switches, battery kills, etc.? I want to install some kind of anti theft, but I want it to be convenient to do so I'll actually do it. Taking the rotor out, or pulling a coil wire or whatever are great for long term, but when I park it at the movie theatre I need something easy but effective. Any pics?

Sure, and here's my address and times that I'm home, the cutoff key is in the ashtray.

Fortunately I live in a pretty crime free area. BUT I have managed to break my ignition so it does not go to "lock" position so it will start without the key. Not that I do not leave my keys in it anyways.

There will be a cut off switch installed shortly! I have also gone with an incredibly gaudy paint scheme so it will be easy to find (ok until painted again) when reported stolen.

This is not rocket science. Just put a cut off switch in with or without a key.

I like H8s idea but I would ALWAYs get confused with which I turned off.

Originally posted by spencurai


i still like the rotor removal idea. just get under the hood and pull the rotor out of the disty. my football buddies would steal my enduro motorcycle at lunch time and ride it around. you could turn the key with a screwdriver or unplug is altogether so i just started taking the spark plug wire off. cheapo security cameras are good for residences nowadays. you can get a timelapse vCR for cheap and the cameras are about 75-100$. make sure the camera is highly visible fot deterrent purposes.


my favorite is the generic AA battery flashing LED. set it up and let it flash. most thieves will walk right on by rather than dealing with an alarm.....not that alarms are that much of a theft deterrent. nobody responds to them anymore because of so many false alarms. most alarm systems disable various systems in the car to make it unstealable without a tow-truck.

I'm installing a set of 160 decipal air horns and wiring them to an alarm. That gets people's attention!

Originally posted by 1985CJ7Laredo
Anyone have any pics of where they've hidden their cut off switches, battery kills, etc.? I want to install some kind of anti theft, but I want it to be convenient to do so I'll actually do it. Taking the rotor out, or pulling a coil wire or whatever are great for long term, but when I park it at the movie theatre I need something easy but effective. Any pics?

Yeah, I got some pics and CAD drawings of my security system, I'll post them w/ my address and detailed directions to my house before I leave for Europe next week. :shaking:

I installed an electric fuel pump and hid a switch for it. No fuel,no go!

I just put in a painless wiring harness that has a fuse that takes care of everything just remove it and nothing in the vehicle works. when i installed the harness i hid it pretty good but i am still going to put a kill switch in this lock box that was built into the jeep under the passenger side seat.

I usually don't botther, although I should seeing as how people have tried to steal my Jeep more than once. When I leave it parked in a bad neighborhood or outside for long periods of time, I disable it. My favorite is to pull the CPS just slightly so that it looks like it is still plugged in. It will just crank and crank until the battery is dead but will never start up. The best part is that unlike snagging the coil wire, the CPS problem is one that usually only Jeep folks know, so it eliminates many of the home boy theif idiots that prowl the streets.

Assuming someone does plug the CPS back in and starts it up before I come charging out of my house gun in hand...good luck getting it down the street. I usually pull the MAP vacuum line so IF you get it started the fuel mix will be fawked and every time it drops below 1500rpm, the engine dies. Seeing as how my Jeep is a stick, that makes driving a little tricky...as me how I know :D

Not that I have the time or money to install this equipment, but it's a good way to upgrade your rig, too. Start with a SM 420. One stick. Well, that'll need an overdrive. Two sticks. Then mate it up to your choice of T-cases. Just make sure to install a 2wd lo. That's 4 sticks. Then, we all need a Klune V. That's 5 sticks. Duct tape another one below the floor board for the hell of it, and don't label any of them. Leave it in some screwy front wheel drive gear with the hubs open. And don't label what any of them are. Just a thought. Now justify it to the woman. "But honey, you don't want it getting stolen, do you. I need a new drive train to make sure no one rips it off."

Reed

For switches use relays, 15A, dont go cheep.
how to wire them up:
http://www.the12volt.com/relays/relays.asp


SO far I like:
1. The electric fuel pump kill switch
2. disable engine sensors? sweet, you can run a Relay off any sensor or hell all sensors and hook them up to your alarm so you only have to hit one remote button!!!
3. I use the auto lock, locks my clutch or a brake on an auto, togher to cut your brake then it is to cut the wheel!
4. Relocate the hood release cable. heep the origional as a dummie.
5. NEED HELP, how about an E-BRAKE lock, we would need a 12V powered calmp that could grap the E-brake cable? what coudl do this? The ebrack would already be pulled after the jeep is parked just hit your alarm and click your e-brake is locked on. I could hook up such a solonoid devise to relays like on your power remote locks a lock un lock relay setup. With soem custome brackets and stuff I bet a powerfull 15ftlbs doro lock could actualy pull it off then can be bought as cheep as $15!!!!


6. Kinda lame, but I was thinking a set of BEASTLY bright strobe lights under the dash might help. Most attempts are night so a blinding light under the dash would make it hard to trouble shoot the wireing..

7. GOT RADIO? Go to yoru local insall shop ask for a BROKEN-ASS radio no cassete, get a 1.5-2DIN the LARGE ones, cut the plastic face off the deck and reglue all the knobs and stuff on. Throw some velcroon the back of the face and on your dash, most theves will see its a cheep broken looking radio, but behind it is you real "almost broke" radio!!!!

8. One of the best systems for like a $20K + beast is the LOJACKS system. It is a passive system, theves can drive off withit, but you can track the dirty kids after you report it. Sends off a signal that ALL cop cars can track. there is a monthly cost fro the service, but like your pager or phone it can be driven to an enclosed location that you can not get service so it will not send out the signal!!

Need some more ideas on a CHEEP device that could work on ,
my #5 IDEA.

Ignition kills reguardless if there hidden are easy to bypass at the starter, a Removable inlike fuse at the battery to the starter would be nice for those long trips.


whos got a full floater, pull the axle shaft its only 8 bolts, then put in a plate! Not so great in office clothes!


good luck guys.

Well.. when I am in the middle class nice neighborhoods I will pull the face plate to the stereo, key, and if it isn't blocked in by my 6,000lb truck in the driveway (makes it kinda heard to steal), I'll pull the coil wire, or park it with the tcase in neutral.

I like the 400 shifter idea though. LOL I would leave it in quintuple low though. Yes officer they stole my car, you have about 5 hours to get here before they turn out of my driveway. :flipoff2:

When I am in a so-so neighborhood, one that has some crime, druggies, etc. I'll just turn it off, usually even leave teh stereo face plate there.

Funny thing.... my shit is safer in a not so safe neighborhood than a nice one. :rolleyes:

Ok, I know this isn't a backyard fix to the problem,
but you could spend 500$ and get lojack, That way you can get you car back if it does get jacked, I know 500$ is pretty steep, but just think, it's cheeper that starting over..

In truth, Jeeps are probably easier to steal than any other vehicle on or off the road. Easy access, especially with a soft top and plastic windows, doesn’t make the task of protecting a Jeep any easier.



I have developed a simple hidden magnetic circuit which I call the Automatic Disable / Enable (ADE) System. This system will automatically disable multiple electrical systems that your Jeep requires to run. (Ignition system, Fuel Pump, Fuel Injectors, Automatic Shut Down relay.)



The ADE System will also allow you to easily enable these same electrical systems with one swipe of a magnet.



The ADE System can be used with any fuel-injected vehicle and many non fuel-injected vehicles.



I provide detailed instructions on how to build this system and specific instruction on where to install this system on a 1997 Jeep TJ

If anyone has an interest in this you will find a complete write-up on my rudimentary web site. You can download the document in MS Word format from:

http://home.att.net/~email.id/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html


To date I have personally built more then 50 of these systems for friends, and have received feedback from hundreds of Jeepers who have built them as well.

You might actually find this useful. (Total cost less then $15)

Frank

Frank,
I have read your writeup and would like to install something like that in my Jeep. The problem is I have NO plastic to put the relay under. Any ideas? I suppose I could get a plastic project box and hang it under the dash, maybe with a couple of real switches in it so it wouldn't look suspicious.

Originally posted by Grandpa Jeep
Frank,
I have read your writeup and would like to install something like that in my Jeep. The problem is I have NO plastic to put the relay under. Any ideas? I suppose I could get a plastic project box and hang it under the dash, maybe with a couple of real switches in it so it wouldn't look suspicious.

Hi Grandpa,

Actually I do have a solution for you.

The only place you really need the plastic is where you mount the reed switch so that the magnet can trip it. If the reed switch is shielded by metal the magnet won't trip it.

However the reed switch I am using here (From Radio Shack) will work great in an all Metal Jeep too!

This reed switch works by swiping the magnet either on the side of the reed switch, or across the top. It can be inserted into a drilled hole.

I just did this installation in a CJ 5 this past weekend.

Just drill a hole in the metal panel where you want to mount the reed switch and slide it through. There is a lip on one end to hold it against the metal panel.

Hold it in place with some RTV glue on the back side, then hook the wires up to the relay.

I painted the end of the reed switch black for this guy and it looks like a big rivet in the dash. It works great.

Also, I have completely redesigned and simplified this ADE system. It now uses a standard Bosch Type Automotive Relay (SPDT) available in any auto store for $2.50 or less.

I need a day or two to draw up the circuit and do a small write-up on it.

Hold off, I think you will like this one even better. Besides it's cheaper to build. I will supply a parts source.

Frank

Not really a "keep yer Rig from gittin' jacked" but more like a "keep yer ray-diddy-oh from gittin' jacked"

I hot glued razor blades to the back of my stereo, I trick I picked up from a buddy and never got around to until the 2nd CD player was ripped off. It's never been tested in mine, but he did have blood all over his carpet one morning last summer.

I really wouldnt try that last idea people.

That could land you in jail, as it is highly illegal to "booby trap" ANYTHING. Yes a thief could brake into your Jeep and try to steal your radio, end up cutting the hell out of himself, call the police and YES have YOU arested. And probably sued as well.

It sucks but its true.

Frank,

I am awaiting your new write up. I checked out your older one a while ago, but never got around to making it. If this one is going to be easier, the other one wasnt to difficult looking, I will definatly build one. Thanks man.

Later.

run an "a/b" switch that will convert the electricity from your coil to your seatframe or steering wheel, one touch of power to the starter and BAM!!! you're cleaning up shit and piss that the almost theif left on your drivers seat:grinpimp:

When I lived in Phoenix and would leave for home between trimesters I would back my Jeep into its space and then remove the shifter from my sm420. With my Jeep now I can remove the wheel because I have a quick dissconnect.

Steering wheel quick disco, mount a bracket and chain with lock tightly to put the shifter in 5th gear or to stay in park. If you have a metal center console you could mount off that. Anything you bolt onto the rig Tackweld the bolts or drill the center and run a padlock. On the TJ you could take advantage of the clutch having to be in on the manual and run a hidden toggle. The bottom line is almost all of these are possible to get past and steal the trick is finding the most time consuming way for a thief to bypass. Don't do any harmful to thief tricks you'll get sued and probably will end up hurting your kids or yourself hungover forgetting to disable your system. Alarms don't work nobody gives a crap when they go off. But I think disabling the shifter and the engine kill style is the way to go.

Grandpa, Red Wrangler and Others,

I have not had a chance to update the ADE System document on my web site yet

http://home.att.net/~email.id/wsb/html/view.cgi-home.html-.html

However I did find the time to draw the circuit up. It is so simple I am sure you can follow it.

Please note, there is a Diode across pins 86 and 85. Please see my web site document for the part number from Radio Shack. Sometimes you can find relay plugs with the diode built in. This would be goodness if you can. I have a mail order source, but it cost more to ship one then the item costs itself.

The relay used here is a standard 30 Amp Bosch Type Automotive Relay available at any auto parts store.

Here is the circuit.

http://www.dana60.com/daless2/ADEBosch.jpg

If you build this it will directly replace the original ADE circuit in my document. I will attempt to get that updated in the next few days.

Hope this helps you out.

Frank

PS: If anyone is interested in this system please download the document to better understand how it works.

Well first you tear into the dash to change the heater core. Then you leave off all the non essential items like = Heater, AC, Glovebox, DASH. And since the lil Fawkers ALWAYS seem to gank the radio anyways, I just mount it up on top of where the dash used to be so they can find it easy. Hopefully they just take it and go........ Unless they want to try drivin a yota with no doors and no dash through town.





"Mad Max is my Idol"

i just have a little kill switch under my glove box in my Nissan, i put it in cause i was getting a constant draw from the battery and it would die over night. but it has helped that none of my frined can take my truck now. it works.

-Dennis

I have a kill switch for my ignition. The Jeep will crank all day long but not get any spark. I think thats more effective than killing all power. That way the theif not only makes a bunch of noise trying to get it running (w/ no results), plus he'll probably just assume after about 30secs to 1min that the Jeep really is just as crappy as it looks and doesn't run. It also lives in the garage.

Since I have a no real steering column and I have a 12voltguy ignition switch panel with push to start, I used a Harley tubular key switch mounted in side a tuffy security console and the wires going to the switch run through the cage.

I've always thought about fabbing something up and using a padlock to either lock the parking brake to the floor or even the clutch to the floor. I like the clutch idea better I think, just because it's funny.

You guys are focusing on the electrical end for a solution. The dependable solution in my mind is to focus on the steering b/c any good thief will have ignition knowledge. Within 10 minutes I could have almost any Jeep off and running by quickly bypassing multiple kills switches, etc.

Solution: removable steering wheel.

I say all this b/c I've struggled with this in my mind. I've got a very large investment in my rig and live in a city with high vehicle theft rates. Here is what I feel most confident about:

http://www.prostreetonline.com/buy/grant%5Fvehicle%5Fsecurity/

It is the grant steering security system. Remove your steering wheel = no ability to drive your vehicle away.

i just put in a 2 way compustar remote paging alarm with motion sensor. i can se t that thing so you cant get within 5 fet of it without it paging me.. and if all fails the starter disabling feature will slow them up a bit

well my np435 is on its last days right now, and the shifter pulls right out the top of the trans, so thats a good simple anti theft device, but then again who wants to walk into walmart/movie theatre with your dirty shifter........... when i was re wiring my ignition/starter system, i re wired the ignition switch so that i had a push button for the starter, but the push button for the starter has to have the key in the on position b4 it has power...... still need the key, but just another step.......

It is the grant steering security system. Remove your steering wheel = no ability to drive your vehicle away.
Unless the would be theif picked up a Grant removable steering wheel kit himself. And if you have an actual race style removable wheel, clamp some vise grips to the splined shaft and off you go.

Sure its a deterent, but any theif that wants to spend 10 mins or more diagnosing why my Jeep cranks but won't start would certainly be determined enough for either option I mentioned above.

Did somebody say linelocks?

Unless the would be theif picked up a Grant removable steering wheel kit himself. And if you have an actual race style removable wheel, clamp some vise grips to the splined shaft and off you go.


Dang, you beat me to it. I've also heard of people using vice grips. Its not perfect. I say a manual fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line somewhere....

add a parking brake release lever somewhere it cant be seen and leave the factory one in the stock location, hooked to a kill switch that must be reset under the hood.

Put a switch on the hot wire going to the coil. Hide the switch under the dash where it is easy for you to reach and not to obvious so that people see what you are doing. When parking shut the switch off and it wont start.


Sorry if this has been posted already, I didnt read all the post.

It is the grant steering security system. Remove your steering wheel = no ability to drive your vehicle away.
Not really...some ppl thought it would be funny to hide the wheel of my race car while it sat on top of the car....I thought I somehow lost it. I just used vise grips. Had the car driven through the pits and on the trailer before I got the wheel back, and it wasn't that bad to steer. Now if you disable the fuel system.....unless they rig a jerry can on the hood (if you're carbureted even), they're not getting very far. That's assuming they don't have a trailer, but if they have a trailer, they're getting it one way or the other, unless you have it sunk in concrete.

http://www.scytek.net/product_precisionVision_visionGuard6000.html

I have worked with car alarms for many years... The one above is the best idea I have seen yet.

Here are some tips if you choose the electronic alarm type of protection.

1) Never install the system under the dash. That is were the thief is going to look.
2) Never leave the alarm wires exposed. (I would be able to tell you what ONE wire to cut to disable most systems out there.) Use loom, or cover the harness with black tape. OR use all the same color wire for all your connections during the install. (I recommend BLACK). I recommend all three. Try to make the wiring look like a factory install.
3) Install at least 2 back up batteries for the alarm system. (Again, NOT under the dash) I have seen to many times the thief just cuts the battery cable under the hood and PRESTO no more alarm. On that note, be sure to install a hood pin or a mercury switch that will trigger the alarm when the hood is opened.
4) Get a system with a paging option. NOBODY cares about the stupid siren going off. In fact most people will be glad when the guys steals your junk so they don’t have to hear the alarm anymore!! A pager or a two way remote will let YOU know that something is up with your rig. What you do from there is up to you.

Something to keep in mind:
I can tell you that most cars will start with only 3 wires, regardless of the alarm system.

I read in an above post about a strobe light idea. I have used that in the past with great success, the trick is to get one with a sweeping frequency rate. The human eye will not be able to change fast enough to see. However a smart thief will carry a flashlight.

If we are talking about drive off thieves, the best way to stop a thief is to make the rig Non-mobile. I agree that steering is the way to go. But it alone will not be enough. I have seen lock pins thru the steering shaft into the frame to lock the steering up. That with a hood latch lock will slow them down. Combine that with a means of disabling the engine and now you have a thief that will move on.

For team thieves, they will just load your junk on a roll back. Game over.

I have a chain link steering wheels and unless i disarm my seat sensor it charges the wheel through a remote mount Ignition coil...:laughing: :laughing: J/K

I've read alot about using a hidden switch, or hiding a switch somewhere. It seems that a better solution is to use a switch right out in the open either not labeled, or labeled with something false. For example, use a switch shich says "lockers" or "fog" and that would be hooked into your coil or iginition wire. No one I guess would ever figure that out.

pardon the file photo.

If you have a standard jeep shift lever as shown below. Pull it off, remove the anal beads from inside and put them somewhere outta sight. Replace the lever and enjoy slowing down a theif

http://www.jeepworld.com/Images/wrangler/console.jpg

my buddy had a cherry 69 mustang jacked and fawked up, hes been using one of those grant removable steering wheels now and hasnt had any problems.

Haven't put a whole lot of thought into this, but what about a fusible link type setup where (if not disabled by those in the know) it pops a fuse or something when the thief tries to hotwire it. The theif would then pop the fuse and give up and when you return to the vehicle, you could access your hidden stash of fuses, replace it and go. It wouldn't save your stereo, but may help you keep your rig...

i like the fact that it pages me, its loud as fawk, and has a starter disable when tripped too. i put motion sensors in too for protection when the top is off. its almost too pimp but it has done me good in all my rigs. i gt them off ebay and do the install myself





Compustar 2W900FMR

2W900FMR1W900FMR


Up to 3000* feet of Range
This model was introduced in 2004 as one of the first 900 MHz systems on the marked. It has the largest LCD of any CompuStar remotes along with a built in clock that also displays remote start run time. The 900MHz technology supports a longer battery life and a quicker response time between the transmitter and receiver. Firstech engineers were the first to perfect 900MHz FM for vehicle security applications. The 2W900FMR is available as a 2nd Car controller (blue casing) or a Turbo Timer controller (white casing)

*Range is quoted for U.S. models only. International models will differ in range.

Includes 1 x Two-Way and 1 x One-Way remote


Remote Features
- Two-way paging remote
- Vibrate and audible notification
- Run-time indicator
- Detailed icons
- Turbo timer or 2nd Car
- CompuGlow backlight
- Multi-color LCD (liquid crystal display)
- RPS on/off through remote
- Shock sensor on/off through remote
- Passive on/off through remote
- Valet mode on/off through remote
- Uses standard AAA 1.5 volt battery
- Built in Clock
- Largest LCD of any CompuStar remotes
- 2004 CES Innovation Award Winner

View the manual for the 2W900FMR
This is available in English and French

Alarm Features Starter Features Alarm/Start Features
- Includes dual stage shock sensor
- RPS (remote paging system)
- External Siren (six-tone)
- Super bright blue LED's
- 2-auxillary outputs, expandable to 7 with Channel Expander
- Dedicated trunk release output
- Horn honk output during alarm
- Includes starter-kill relay
- Driver's priority unlock
- Ignition controlled door locks

- Factory style alarm
- Dedicated trunk output
- Horn honk output
- Timer start every 1.5 or 3 hours
- Cold start with optional Temperature Sensor
- Includes anti-grind/starter-kill relay
- Driver's priority unlock
- Ignition controlled door locks
- Manual transmission compatible

- Includes dual stage shock sensor
- RPS (remote paging system)
- External Siren (six-tone)
- Super bright blue LED
- 2-auxillary outputs, expandable to 7 with Channel Expander
- Cold start with optional Temperature Sensor
- Dedicated trunk output
- Horn honk output during alarm
- Includes anti-grind and starter-kill relay
- Driver's priority unlock
- Ignition controlled door locks
- Trunk release output
- Diesel features built-in
- Manual transmission compatible

jeepgif is all over it. It's common knowledge in the car alarm industry that most are installed under the drivers side dash or in the kick panel. I would assume that no one in this forum would have a store put it in for them. Thieves just reach around for loose wires and tear it all out. Most alram systems use standard color wires and it's easy to find that one red wire and cut it. For vehicles that don't have any factory theft systems (chips in the key) they could cut the battery cable and run their own wires to take the vehicle. Including to any engine modules if they had the knowledge. I doubt they're going to bring their own gas with them if the fuel system is disabled. Obviously, if they want it bad enough then it's theirs. The question is how much work to steal it is too much?

The compustar systems talked about are expensive. There are others, I have a Directed Electronics and there are a few more manufactures that make similar systems. I doubt your gonna want to spend $200+ with out installation. Especially for a trail rig. I got mine cheap because I used to work for a dealer.

Took the time to take my dash apart and remove my factory harness. Spliced it all in on a bench including back up battery and numerous sensors and "pain generator" sirens inside the Jeep. Taped it all up and put it back in. If I were to have someone else install it by throwing it under the dash it would have cost over $1000 never mind spending all the time I did to integrate it into the factory harness. I also put the same alarm in my brothers jeep. It's expensive and if someone really wanted my jeep they could throw it on a trailer and take it. Would they go through the trouble to do that? I doubt it. For the risk they would probably take a car worth twice as much.

If I didn't have it that system and I were to put something else in, it would be fuel related.

When your done, give your buddy 10 minutes to try to steal it.

i just cut my exhaust off right behide the cat and you will wake up everytime it starts trust me my buddies tryed to take it wasnt 2 second and I was already outside

X2 on the afformentioned fuel pump switch. It took me about 15 mins to wire one up in my ZJ and works great. Nothing like a $2 car alarm. :D

I say run a wire from your coil to the seat and leave the keys in it. Even if it one of your buddys just messing with you it is fun to watch:flipoff2:

In my last buggy I found a real easy way to keep it from being jacked. Considering it was an open top, no doors buggy w/out a key'd ignition (just a start button) I got bussy with some BlueSea stuff ~ here's the freakin' cool battery cut off.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/rusty178.jpg
On position
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/rusty179.jpg
Off position (key removed!)
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/rusty180.jpg

Then I put that into the Tuffy security console.
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/rusty175.jpg
http://www.dandcextreme.com/upload/rusty176.jpg

When I parked it, I could turn off the battery (connected the switch to the ground) and remove the key, then I could lock the Tuffy and walk away.

Well, I broke my key off in the ingition after hiking out of a fishing trip...in the middle of the Cherrokee national forest about 20 miles from anything or anyone. I ended up breaking the steering lock and screwing with the wiring until I got the old girl to crank (it aint as easy as in the movies!).

Anyway, no more keys for me-thanks. I use a painless harness and have a toggle switch on the dash that turns "on" the power(labeled "lights")- power goes to everything. Then, I have a hidden push button that cranks the jeep. It was simple to do and works well. Of course, my intention was more to never have to worry about breaking/ losing a key than avoiding theft.

Besides, my Cj is too ugly to steal.

best way to keep your rig in your driveway...



leave it on the jackstands!!!


:flipoff2:

I tapped the power line to my fuel cell and added a switch to it and placed the switch inside my locked center cosol on the jeep.

I also bought one of those switches that you can put between your battery cables which you use a small key to allow current to flow.

Nothing like a $2 car alarm. :D

Hell Yeah. This one is my personal favorite.

I don't know about other 4 speed manuals but on the sm465 if you remove the shifter and look down the hole you will see three sets of shifter keyways. They transmission will only work if they are all lined up. If you take a screwdriver and move one of them out of position the transmission will be locked in gear. Then just put the shifter back in and everything looks normal. I found this out the hard way. I had removed my trans to rebuild it and when I put it back in, I couldn't get it out of gear. I thought I had done something wrong when rebuilding it. Thank God I asked a tranny guy what could possibly be wrong before I took it all back apart.

Just putting your transfer case in neutral can go a long way to thwarting a thief.

Every second they mess with getting your vehicle the more likely they are to forget it and run. I bet most theives in that situation would over-look checking the transfercase.

Transfer Case in Neutral and having a stick shift helps. Most stupid robbers don't drive manuals or even know what a transfer case is.

It's all about the GPS tracking device that you stick in your rig somewhere. Or the Cell phone alarms that you can track with Google Maps. Or you can electrify the door handles. Oh, or hook the steering wheel up to the coil with a cut off switch. Just make sure you through the switch before you try to start the rig.

Just use a combination of things. Alarm, fuel cutoff, power cutoff, take a wheel off, etc. By the time they get through one problem they'd most likely give up after realizing their trouble has only begun. But as mentioned several times already, if they really want it they'll find a way to get it.

A reed switch appears to be pretty fragile anyone have any problems with them breaking, also how much current can they handle?

why cant u electrify something in the vehicle but regulate the power so it doesnt scar or kill the bastard?? how would u do it? thats an ok booby trap... the thief isnt going to run to the police and say he tried to steal your car but it kept shocking you!... i have a good hood lock i guess i can keep people out of there, but i like the zapping idea, it makes it hard to hold things.....any ideas as to how ud do it??im gonna make a search of it right now..

i use a kill switch... in the center lock box.. and if they get to that i hope they have the master switch to a piece of catapillar equipment otherwise they still wont get it started :smokin:

There are a number of ways to prevent the engine from starting. The point is that a person who makes their own device and places it in a select location can go a long way. Putting the t-case in neutral is a major thing, because when/if they figure it out, they will be grinding the t-case to get in gear (auto tranny).

Another option. Wiring in a separate switch on the lever-style parking brakes so that it needs to be up to start. This is espeacially effective in autos where the e-brake is rarely used. I had this on my old 73 CJ5. the e-brake was useless.. but this was nice to have. there was no steering lock. easy to hot-wire.

My current anti-thft device is a 2005 Ford CVPI.... if they want the Jeep, they gotta move that first.... and i'm sure they'd rather have the "company car" anyway. ;)

awww. he beat me to it. "the club"

but really. I've been thinking about this alot. was thinking of setting up an intricate series of switches, like 10-12, that must be set in the proper order to complete the circut for the run position on the ignition. sorta like a combonation lock to your jeep. then I realized that it would be extremely easy to just splice the first and last switch together. perhaps I could make such a complicated mess of wires under there that ran to and from the firewall with the last switch in the series not necessarily the last one on the dash. that would be so friggin confusing it would take anyone all night just to trace the wires.


If you need some help with that, ask a couple chrysler engineers. Rumor has it that they are good at designing systems like that.

I dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet but I have a tuffy center console with the lockable "stereo mounting compartment", and have thought about putting the ignition switch with fuel pump and any other switch where the cd player is supposed to go. (my radio is still in the dash so this is just wasted space rigth now) Just close the lid and lock the box, come back ulock open lid flip switches and go!

here is a pic of what I am talking about
http://www.tuffyproducts.com/consoles/center/deluxe_stereo_details.jpg

Carl

I dont know if anyone has mentioned this yet but I have a tuffy center console with the lockable "stereo mounting compartment", and have thought about putting the ignition switch with fuel pump and any other switch where the cd player is supposed to go. (my radio is still in the dash so this is just wasted space rigth now) Just close the lid and lock the box, come back ulock open lid flip switches and go!

Carl

Yupp, its been mentioned a bunch....

i use a kill switch... in the center lock box.. and if they get to that i hope they have the master switch to a piece of catapillar equipment otherwise they still wont get it started :smokin:

In my last buggy I found a real easy way to keep it from being jacked. Considering it was an open top, no doors buggy w/out a key'd ignition (just a start button) I got bussy with some BlueSea stuff ~ here's the freakin' cool battery cut off.

Then I put that into the Tuffy security console.


When I parked it, I could turn off the battery (connected the switch to the ground) and remove the key, then I could lock the Tuffy and walk away.

I tapped the power line to my fuel cell and added a switch to it and placed the switch inside my locked center cosol on the jeep.

I also bought one of those switches that you can put between your battery cables which you use a small key to allow current to flow.

i just take my computer with me!

sounds like everybody agrees that if they want it bad enough they are going to get it right? does anyone have a solution to the rollback problem? I have seen big heavy diesel trucks just plucked from the street, e-brake set and in park, the winch just pulls the sob right up.

For all you guys running a LSX or Vortech motor. If you go to LS1tech.com there are guys there that have made a removable VATS bypass module that is about the size of a match box. If you remove the module the vehicle will start once and run for less than 5 seconds before the ECU kills it. As far as the rollback, My sister is involved in equine sports and she and her trainer had (2) F350 cc dualys lariats stolen at the same event two years in a row. The first time the truck was parked in the back of the hotel lot with the trailer attached (the trailer was still there in the morning), the second time the truck was parked infront of their room. The trainer has a hard time getting car insurance now.

I am an electronics engineer and love playing with this stuff so my rig will have a touch panel replacing this instrument cluster and a programable logic controller controlling everything... With safetys like rollover sensor, water sensor in the air filter box, tempature sensors where needed and a water switch in the radiator line (no flow and it gives me a warning)... So it will be easy to add a password protect to the boot up... Hell I might even add a second password that boots up the vehicle but kills it after like 60 seconds in case someone has a gun to my head or something... If they take off and leave then they are stuck and if they take me with them itjust looks like mechanical troubles.... That would be sweet and it would literally take like 4 or 5 minutes to add that functionality with the software...

I have the Grant wheel gizmo on mine. The one that lets you take your steering wheel off. Cant steal it if you cant stear it.

Well not without a roll back, or a tow rig.


Turn your wheels all the way to the stops on one side before you take the wheel off. Even if they try to push it up onto a flatbed, they've got their work cutout for them. :D
Billy

I really need to work on an anti-theft system for my TJ. The ignition switch has been broken for almost two years and I can't remove the key, so I need a quick way to disable the bitch. For long periods of time I pull the ASD relay (this is also a great prank to play on newer Jeeps :flipoff2: ).

Hmmmm... Maybe I'll do this tomorrow.

I have not done this on my Tj, but my wife's old honda has ben stolen a few times so i installed a relay to the fuel pump that was powered by the remote wire on the radio. so as long as you have your faceplate with you they cant start it. I also installed a blinking led, not that an alarm keeps anyone away, just trying to keep an honest person honest.

Two good friends of mine, from a local jeep dealer, wired the 06 4.0L in my CJ5 we kept the ignition switch and the skim module so I got electronic keys. The skim module has to read the code from the key, then send a coded signal to the computer so it will start. I also plan on using the clutch cancel signal to the computer and the fuel pump relay signal for my kill switch. Never to carefull.

The magnetic switch listed in the article is no longer available from radio shack. Anyone have any ideas for a replacement?

This might be similar to some of the other ideas, but how about a button that must be pressed while turning the key? I know some types of equipment have these. They are used in stores (Lowes Menards Home Depot)

Mine sits in the garage on jackstands with no front axle or mounting points and the rear just barely bolted in.. oh and there's fuel tank or battery.. lets see ya steel that pig !


in all honesty a cut off switch and a Long pad (through style) behind the brake pedal will work once its done !