My toyota has 1/2 ton running gear and 38" tires I like the idea of some sort of hydralic assist steering. I have little money to work with. Does any one have a write up on this including parts needed and details on how to install and make everthing? The steering box is toyota but I have thought of swapping to chevy witch is easyest and cheapest? Would one steering box work better than the other? I have done the search but seems like its inop. Any help would be great. <IMG SRC="smilies/glasses.gif" border="0">

you just think you don't have the $ to get a good setup cause you have not wheeled with one yet. after you do you will relize that it almost as important as those 38's you are running. at that point i would say check out the goodies from Howe performance.

The mods can be made to almost any PS box. The boxes with the larger caps on the end will give you more power but are sluggish while the boxes with the smaller are faster and give you a better on the road feel.
The Saginaw pumps have always worked best from my experience because there ability to put out high volume.
I've also been testing some mods to the smaller pumps to give more volume and pressure.
There are several guys that can tell you how to make a do it your self hydro assist setup. Or if you want it done for you just let me know.

Here are some links:

http://www.ih8mud.com/tech/ps-ram.html
http://www.off-road.com/~jweed/pwrstr.htm

I read the install on the ram assist and it was very informative. I would like some more info but I am not to familiar with this setup. I don't know what to be asking? Does any one run this setup on the street how would it handle? Right now I have to still drive my rig to the trail and need something that is street worthy. As far as a resouvor goes what kind would be adequate for this kind of low budget ram assist?
Thanks <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

add a filter or a cooler to increase capicity.

I've made dozens of the setups and can honestly say that it will drive better on the highway with big tires than it did before. You will never have problems with death wobble or have the steering wheel ripped out of your hands ever again. I've had guys leave the shop and turn right around and comeback just to say thanks one more time because it drove so good.
Whether you do it yourself or you buy a kit do it. You'll love it.

I just checked out your web site really cool stuff. I will adventually go hydralic assist but not sure when money will allow it? I am trying to get some info together for when I do. I think I will go with either a toy box or chevy box but not sure the benifits of each one? What are they? Should I use a 1" bore 8" ram or a 1.5" one for street ability.
What are some supply places that have good prices on this stuff?
Thanks Jason

1" is fine, look for a farm/tractor supply house. Should be had for 60-80 bucks, just shop. Theres a ford tractor dealer on Power inn in Sacto, do buy there but get the ball rollin there...

I think I heard some one mention a place called northern tool or something is that right? Any other cheap places to go. Nice info anyone know of any other web sites that have info on this? I searched the net and nothing the bulletin board seems to be not working. Well I checked out the northern tool place very cool and cheap but I couldn't find a 1" or 1.5" bore ram is there any place else? You could do this setup really cheap lines are cheap just need to get the fittings to put on the steering box.

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: j4x485 ]

OK, after lurking on this thread for the last couple days I've got to ask, and forgive my ignorance when it comes to hydralic assist steering, but is there a problem with synchronizing the rate of turning between the drag link and the hydralic ram. What I'm asking is if you turn the steering wheel one complete turn it moves your tires a certain amount, well does the ram move it at the same rate or do you have to proportion the valve to synch the ram with the steering or what?

And...do toy IFS boxes work for this application and does anyone have a link for where the fittings are to be inserted into the box?

This is VERY tempting since my fawking steering binds on me even with power steering, and it looks like a good weekend project since the rig is "under construction" already. Thanx <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

The ram will only do what the steering box tells it to. It will do most of the work and just use the steering box as a servo control.
Yes, you can use a toy or any other power steering box for this mod.
As fo rthe guys asking about ram size I recommend that you don't go smaller that 1 1/2 inches. any smaller than that and you are not getting a significant increase in power.

TheLakeRat:
Where is a cheap place do purchase these rams from I have searched all over and can only find 2". I have looked at northern tool. Thanks for your help.

www.baileynet.com (http://www.baileynet.com)

What style would you use I imagine a tie rod cylinder but they also have a welded one. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by j4x485:
<STRONG>What style would you use I imagine a tie rod cylinder but they also have a welded one. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

WooHoo! Spy pix of the latest project pile...
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/custom/shopjunk/hybrid/disc2/MVC-002S.JPG

That's the steering box (IFS Toy, obviously).

http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/custom/shopjunk/hybrid/disc2/MVC-014S.JPG

That's the ram (2x8 ag tie-rod cylinder)

And, lest y'all think I only build IFS trucks that don't flex...

http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/custom/shopjunk/hybrid/disc2/MVC-020S.JPG

There's the progress so far. Yeah, I know... ramps are for (whatever)... but I don't have the luxury of an ARCA course in my back yard, so it'll have to do for now.

When you tapped the holes for the high pressure lines how did you do it? Would it be easy to do for someone with better than average abilities? Looks good

[ 10-10-2001: Message edited by: j4x485 ]

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper:
<STRONG>WooHoo! Spy pix of the latest project pile...

There's the progress so far. Yeah, I know... ramps are for (whatever)... but I don't have the luxury of an ARCA course in my back yard, so it'll have to do for now.</STRONG>

Would you happen to have a better pic of where exactly on the steering box you tapped into for the hydraulic lines??

I have had no luck in finding a 1.5" bore tie rod hydraulic cylinder only 2" I guess I will go that route hope its works okay for the street. Would you happen to have a better pic of where exactly on the steering box you tapped into for the hydraulic lines??
Iwould like to know too. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

Would you happen to have a better pic of where exactly on the steering box you tapped into for the hydraulic lines??

Come on Scott, I need better pics of the lines going into the IFS box!!
Did you try the set-up yet?

I'm in the process of collecting the parts I need to do this on my 91' SAS Toy.
Thanx tom

Originally posted by Scott@Rockstomper:
And, lest y'all think I only build IFS trucks that don't flex...

http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/custom/shopjunk/hybrid/disc2/MVC-020S.JPG
.[/QB]

now it looks like ya build solid axle trucks that dont flex. just kidding, that looks cool, lots of new ideas on that sucker!

Some of us still have some unanswered question someone help us out. <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

Nobody has a better pic of the IFS steering box on where exactly the lines go????????

Come awn!!!! Help a fellow wheeler out <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

I have had no luck in finding a 1.5" bore tie rod hydraulic cylinder only 2" I guess I will go that route hope its works okay for the street. quote:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I am using a 1.5"x 8" welded cyl that I got from "surplus Center" @ 1-800-488-3407
in Lincoln,Nebraska.
The nice thing about the 1.5" bore is that they are only slightly larger than a stabilizer and are a lot easier to fit in narrow axles like my cruiser.Also if it starts to leak a packing kit is only 8.95.

Call and ask for a catalog they have lots of cool stuff besides hydraulics.

hth
rich

'k, I'm back, and I'll spew some more... but I'm not usually online more than once a week, so it's not that I'm tryin' to leave you guys in the dark, it's that I'm workin' all the time, trying to make the mortgage. Call me at the shop if you've got more questions, even if you're not buyin' anything.

Anyway...
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/steering/ramassist/mvc-017s.jpg
Is the location to tap the one. You can't just use the tapped hole right next to it, that one contains the centering pin unit.
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/steering/ramassist/mvc-018s.jpg
Will work for the other. Or, you can use
http://www.rockstomper.com/images/products/steering/ramassist/mvc-019s.jpg
Depending on which you're more comfy with.

As for how to do it... I drilled holes (very carefully, that upper passage area isn't real thick underneath the passage, and if you drill through, you've ruined the box) and tapped them to 1/4" NPT. It wouldn't be *easy* for anyone without a decent drill press or a mill, but it's not that hard.

Then again, consider the source... I'm a fabricator for a living... so "just toss something up there and port it" is a relative thing.

As for trying the setup yet... yes, I've tried it. It got about 200 pavement miles on it in the first two days it was on, and another probably 20 dirt miles.

Scott>
You have been lots of help I have one more question to you or all is there a easier way to tap and drill the holes for the fittings into the box with out taking the box completly apart? Any pics of that or something. Or is it manditory to take it apart?
Thanks

<font size = "+3">THANK YOU SCOTT!!!</font> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[ 10-12-2001: Message edited by: 2highToy ]

Originally posted by j4x485:
<STRONG>Scott>
You have been lots of help I have one more question to you or all is there a easier way to tap and drill the holes for the fittings into the box with out taking the box completly apart? Any pics of that or something. Or is it manditory to take it apart?
Thanks</STRONG>

I think you need to take the box completely apart, otherwise you'll have a bunch of metal shavings from the drilling/tapping floating around the box/system.

Originally posted by I Lean:
<STRONG>I think you need to take the box completely apart, otherwise you'll have a bunch of metal shavings from the drilling/tapping floating around the box/system.</STRONG>

Yepyep... chips, crap, abrasive goo... very bad for the box, the pump, stuff like that. Take it apart carefully and you won't even have to replace anything. The piston ring *will* get cut if you're not really careful putting it back together, and it's a $10 part (and special order) at the dealership. But you do have to take it apart to clean out all the crud you *will* get into it when drilling/tapping it.

What cool info! If you think you can not do this, I sugest sending it to "lake rat" at $150 cheap insuarance for the non inclined.

Lets say you had no steering box and your choices were either the toy box or saginaw which one is stronger cheaper and easier to drill and tap for the fittings? Good and bad of both.
Thanks

No hurry on an answer, is the toy pump putting out enough to drive the hydro good enough?

Definatly go with the Saginaw box. Not that they are any stronger. Just that they are easier to find and flow a little bit better.

SeaBass is right. You need to watch out for that Toyota pump it may not put out enough volume for comfortable steering. If you do use it then do not go over a 1.5" ram.

<IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

I am sure I will go 2" ram with saginaw box and resouvor so far. Let me know when you get the tech article done I would love a copy for reference.
Thanks Jason <IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

<font color="yellow"
I second (or third, fourth, whatever) the thank you to Scott. http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/thumbsup.gif

http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/grin_plethora.gif http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/grin_plethora.gif

Originally posted by MasterYota:
<STRONG><font color="yellow">
I second (or third, fourth, whatever) the thank you to Scott.</font> http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/thumbsup.gif

http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/grin_plethora.gif http://www.angelfire.com/mac/mudyota/smilies/grin_plethora.gif </STRONG>

And TheLakeRat!!!! Excellent info from you guys

<font size = "+2">Thanx</font> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[ 10-15-2001: Message edited by: 2highToy ]

Anyone got pictures of where to drill and tap the housing (NOT the caps) on a saginaw box?

Was going to go with TheLakeRat (WestTexasOffroad.com) but I need the box by next week and he doesn't have any YJ boxes in stock.
So, I want to do it myself.

Got pics?

Thanks :Beer:,

Phil

Originally posted by I Lean


I think you need to take the box completely apart, otherwise you'll have a bunch of metal shavings from the drilling/tapping floating around the box/system.

While putting drains into torque converters I do this: Use a heavy grease like wheel packing grease on your drill bit & tap. The grease traps the pieces of crap and will come out with them.

Originally posted by TheLakeRat
I've made dozens of the setups and can honestly say that it will drive better on the highway with big tires than it did before. You will never have problems with death wobble or have the steering wheel ripped out of your hands ever again. I've had guys leave the shop and turn right around and comeback just to say thanks one more time because it drove so good.
Whether you do it yourself or you buy a kit do it. You'll love it.

Must be something wrong with mine then. I still get an occassional wobble, and the wheel still jerks around when I hit rocks on the trail. But I would not want to ever be without it. It moves boulders out of the way.

Anyone got pictures of where to drill and tap the housing (NOT the caps) on a saginaw box?
Anyone???

pm lakerat. he will help u.