so this is my first jeep, always have had yotas, after my last accident i wanted a suv, so cherokee has better power to start with over a 4runner, so jeep it is
to start off what ive got sitting right now.
89 Jeep Cherokee Pioneer
d30 front d35 rear
brand new engine 30,000 miles ago.
Transmission rebuilt at that time.
high out put 4.0 from a 91 was installed
aw4 tranny, np242, hopefully being swapped out
and stock everything else and a nice system.
got it about 1 month ago, and in that time i have come across a hp waggy d44 6 lug front for 100 bucks form a co worker, and a ff corp 14 bolt from a burban, havent gotten yet im pretty sure its gonna be wider then the d44 but i dont know, anybody that does let me know please!
so those, and im going to do the standard crap slip yoke eliminator blah blah blah crap. 4.56 gears on 35's, with a 4 inch leaf lift from a chevy 63 rear leafs, on a double shackle, and a home brew long arm front, possibly coil overs depends on cash. and this will be 4 1/2 to 4 3/4 to allow for settling, and i like my rigs a little nose high. so thats my plan any opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Rick

Well you have chosen the right vehicle. I don't think you need an axle that big in the back it's going to be pretty wide and probably be a different bolt pattern from the 44 and the ring gear is so damn big it will kill your ground clearance, and the 44 probably has a passenger side diff. I would just get an exploder 8.8 for the back, 95 or newer with discs, you will need at least 4.5 inches of lift and some cutting of the body I don't think long arm is nessary at that height just get or make some adjustable beefy control arms coil overs would be sweet if you can afford it but the regular coils work great too. I would just keep the d30 up front maybe get the latter drive shafts with the 297 u joints. At least you will have some power now, you still have a Toyota transmission, put some switches on it for shifting.

Lots of guys running 35's with a D44, 8.8 or 9" rear and the D30 front with alloy shafts. The most popular axles are the D44 in the rear followed by the 8.25 and then the Explorer disc brake 8.8. I did a 44 myself, and if I didn't find it, I'd have an 8.8 in it. Toss a 231 in it with the bigger chain/6 gear planetary and an SYE. I was originally going to get a 4runner, but doing the straight axle was more than the Cherokee. I took the easy way out with rubicon's extreme duty 5.5 kit.

yeah get a 231 i think the dodge version has the 6 planet/wider chain and I think the 242 has it too but I forget. the 91 and later transmissions have a 23 spline out put yours should have 21 just get an older t case or you will have to swap input gears. 21 spline is still pretty strong.

well lol opinion is opinion, il take a 9 inch into consideration, ive gota few or 5 laying around, and the d44 i got is driver drop, and its gonna be a 4 inch with alot of cutting, i guess my go big or go home attitude is going so hard right now cause the 30 to 40 ppl i usually wheel with theres one jeep, and he stopped coming lol. so i need to build a yota killer. plus i got the parts, only thing im having trouble finding is just a complete bracket and bucket kit for the cherokee front axle, dont care if its full width specific or not, just dont have the right tools to fab all those brackets and still feel comfortable with the craftsmen ship with the capabilities of the tools ive got.

as far as switches for shifting, can you explain more in detail, note this is my first automatic transmission lol.

So there are two solonoids that control the spool valves that direct the fluid to the different clutch packs for the different gears and one solonoid for the torque converter lock up clutch
so instead of letting the tcu decide which ones to energize you can do it manually with switches in the picture the left switch is for solonoid 1 middle for solonoid 2 and right is for solonoid 3 which is for the TC. with none of them energized the transmission is in what ever gear the shifter is in. so if switch 1 is on it's in first if 1 and 2 are on it's in 2nd if just 2 is on it's in 3rd and all off is 4th. Then theres switch 3, the TC lock up that works in 2nd 3rd or 4th. It works awesome never going back.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/ll148/XJOREGONDIRT/jeep%20pics/shifting.jpg

so basically all down and the tranny in d it shift and drive normal?

it will just stay in D if you do that, you can put another switch in to send power to the computer then you can have the option of auto or manual but then you have to leave the computer all wired in and probably use diodes to keep power from back flowing in to the tcu. I was going to do that but it was so much more controllable and fun to drive that I just threw the computer out. With no electronic input the manual valve controls the gears but you will wear it out if you use it for shifting all the time and won't get 2nd. only costs about 15 bucks for switches and wire. AWshifting makes a kit to do it but it's not that hard to rig up.

it will just stay in D if you do that, you can put another switch in to send power to the computer then you can have the option of auto or manual but then you have to leave the computer all wired in and probably use diodes to keep power from back flowing in to the tcu. I was going to do that but it was so much more controllable and fun to drive that I just threw the computer out. With no electronic input the manual valve controls the gears but you will wear it out if you use it for shifting all the time and won't get 2nd. only costs about 15 bucks for switches and wire. AWshifting makes a kit to do it but it's not that hard to rig up.

http://www.greatlakesxj.com/tech/aw4shiftmod.html

About your front axle a Waggy D44 is low pinion thin tubes and is 6 on 5.5". All HP D44's came in Fords. They are in F-100, F-150 from about '71-'77 with weld on mounts, have1/2" wall tubes and are a 65" wide. The coil spring '78-'79 F-150 and Broncos had cast mounts and thin tubes so stay away. The '78-'79 F150 Camper Special used leaf springs bigger tubes 1/2" wall tubes and are about 67" wide. All of the above HP D44 axles have a 5 on 5.5" pattern. The '78-'79 F250 used a HP D44 with large diameter 1/2" wall tubes HD inner C's, 8 lugs outers and are about 69" wide. A Suburban 14 bolt is 67" wide and can be narrowed to 63" by using cab & chassis type hubs. See the 14 bolt bible in the tech section for more info.

So if you have a Waggy width HP D44 with a 6 on 5.5" bolt pattern it is custom.

If you are planning on crawling and high speed wheeling with up to 37" tires a HP D44 and a 9" Ford axles that both run chromoly shafts and CTM front u-joints s a good combo. If you stick with your 35" tire choice this is a good crawling set-up until you strik it rich and buy a High 9.

If you are hardcore crawler and run 38's or larger get a HP D60 and the 14 bolt. You can narrow a kingpin mid 80's HP D60 by cutting the long shaft and have a 64" wide axle to match the 63" wide 14 bolt.

A 242 case isn't that bad and Dodge make a wide chain 6 planetary geared 242 HD case that is rated at 2028lb Max.Capacity Torque and the 231 HD is rated at 1940 ft lbs. Both have 23 spline inputs, but you could either have a 21 or 23 spline input. If you use a 231 get the HD SYE and you should be able to run a front driveshaft in the rear.

Skip the double shackle BS and go with a linked and coil set-up. 63" Chevy springs are the wrong length. If you stick with leaf spring there are some good JY choices or good new springs. Get some 1.5" boomarang shackles and some Dodge B-Van springs. The rear portion of the spring is 1.5" longer so you will have the correct shackle angle.

Plating the frame is a good idea. Use the search feature to find out more.

Have some fun with the sawzall on the fenders so you tire can stuff and steer.

I'm sick of typing so :flipoff2: for now...:laughing:

why do you say there the wrong length.....one of the reasons we build these is cause honestly the majority of us could take something off of any car or truck and apply it to our rigs. i choose 63's because of the length, a longer spring will obviously flex better, double shackle is a shit load of droop. Plus the simplicity of that sort of lift is hard not to wanna do, linking the rear is completely out of budget. It will happen one day but not soon, plus ive got the 63's and 3 inch yota lift shackles, and brackets sitting in my garage i think its the best option for my application in my opinion. id like if you guys could post of your flex shots of your xjs, leaf sprung rear and what your running though to.

and this whole axle situation is a complete cluster-fuck of miscommunication so i havent even had a chance to look at the 44 yet