I did not find this issue on SERCH area.

I would like to offset a rear Toy pick up axle

Who knows which year started the wider rears toyota pickup axles and how wider are latest ones than older ones?.

i'm selling one that already has all the work done. ;) it's 55" with the diff 3" offset to the pass. side. look in the for sale section

hehehehe....... stupid newbie, he spelt search wrong......:flipoff2:

poppy had a few posts about that axle, you should find it if you search hard enough.....

86 and newer had the 3" wider axles, 1.5" on each side, not 3" on each side........ :D ......

Toys that came with solid front axles have 55" wide axles at both ends. They were produced from 79-85 here in the U.S.

Toys that came with independent front suspension (86+ in the U.S.) have a 58" wide rear axle. This axle also has much larger rear drum brakes.

The hitch is that you don't live in the USA - so 86+ trucks were still solid front axle. I'm pretty sure post-86 toyotas down there will have 58" wide rear axles, even though they're solid front axle. If I were you, I'd track down one of the australian guys in the Toy section on here (RUFF, BJ on ROIDS, I think?) and ask him what happened to toy axle widths after 1986.

[i]Originally

The hitch is that you don't live in the USA - so 86+ trucks were still solid front axle. I'm pretty sure post-86 toyotas down there will have 58" wide rear axles, even though they're solid front axle. If I were you, I'd track down one of the australian guys in the Toy section on here (RUFF, BJ on ROIDS, I think?) and ask him what happened to toy axle widths after 1986. [/B]

Yes, you are right. Solid axles pick ups was imported until 1993.

What's the need for the off set?

Originally posted by fatkid
What's the need for the off set?

To line it up with stock t-case and avoid premature U-joint failure.

To line it up with stock t-case and avoid premature U-joint failure.


WTF?

Just go with a toyota transfer case.
You will want a GRS ... unit sometime in the future.
Do not forget you need cross-over or High Steer +++++

Originally posted by LoneZuk
Just go with a toyota transfer case.
You will want a GRS ... unit sometime in the future.
Do not forget you need cross-over or High Steer +++++

It is cheaper to keep stock t case and offset the diff.

Originally posted by dparker



WTF?

What is WTF?

What is WTF?

Well, it's short for "what the fuck?" as in, dparker may not have understood what you were talking about, or was just giving you some crap:flipoff2:

Most of the fellows here in the states that are putting the toy axles in, just use the centered rear and run a CV joint rear driveshaft to help make up for the angles. That will definitely work offroad, and it is claimed that this type of centered setup with the CV joint and stock zuk t-case will work fine on the road. I am not convinced of this yet. I would like to actually drive one on the road to see for myself.
YMMV

WTF?

hey dr. evil.....

the solid fronts are all the same, there was some more gusseting of the axle, but no additional width :(

Gbravo, i had a cool reply typed up, but it was erased cause i had too many pictures...

scope this thread out, two suzukis out playing with us on the weekend and they both have offset rear toy diffs

they come in factory over here in a vehicle called: bundera, its LJ or RJ 75 is the denomination, and is basically cruiser body, hilux running gear, offset rear diff

you should get them down there, they are coiled, pull the rear, bung under yours, and hammer down, one of the zooks in this footage runs 35s, and heaps pedal and no breakage (of axles)click here for the pics (http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69132&perpage=20&pagenumber=1)

Yeah our hilux's came as solid fronts right up till '96 and they were only 55" wide but we also got some IFS fronts and they had the 58" rears but the best thing is to use the Bundera Rears over here but they are only 55" also but are already offset to your passenger side. Greg(zook with 35s in pics) has a Bundera rear and the zook with 33 BFG muds has just had the Toy axle conversion as well using the Bundera rear.

Here is a pic of the rear diff in the zook with 35s

http://pics.montypics.com/Ruff_HILUX/2002-07-21/greg_fallen_over__002.jpg

I am neither convince about to run a centered diff even with CV joint, because it will avoid vibartions on a couple of axis but not in the third that start to play on that set up.

I will check down here about that model, but never hear that before. The only model I heard is a Toyota Bandeirante, it is a Brazilian LC that maybe carry Hilux axles.
You could recognize it for his square headlights.

Dude, the offset diff is fine, just get a CV on the d-line. Not convinced, fine, just thought you might wanna hear from someone who has the set up, it works and no problems and the vibrations are very minimal and I highly doubt it's gonna cause premature u-joint failure. You should probably go cv joint anyways and while your at it upgrade your u-joints to either toy's or 1310's.

Originally posted by nuttzack
Dude, the offset diff is fine, just get a CV on the d-line. Not convinced, fine, just thought you might wanna hear from someone who has the set up, it works and no problems and the vibrations are very minimal and I highly doubt it's gonna cause premature u-joint failure. You should probably go cv joint anyways and while your at it upgrade your u-joints to either toy's or 1310's.

HEY dude:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=69761

hey chilean dude...im feeling nice today:

google search:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=bundera&btnG=Google+Search

revealed:
http://www.marks4wd.com/lc-Bundera-info.html

and so i dont suck up some bandwidth, over here they are normally hardtops, but this is asoft top one, im sure the front will show you waht to look for!!

its definitely not a banderiente, whihc is more like a 40 series cruiser, and notice the difference between the parking lights on the guard and the 75 series parking lights are a totally separat unit, whereas these are all part of the grille?
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/coolfj40/86bunfromsyd.html

if it has the same front end as the red one in the pic, then it has your rear diff

Originally posted by GBRAVO
I am neither convince about to run a centered diff even with CV joint, because it will avoid vibartions on a couple of axis but not in the third that start to play on that set up.

I run a Toy front CV as a rear drive shaft, however I have no idea what I am talking about nor do any of the people on this board that have done the same thing. :)

Originally posted by BJ On Roids
hey chilean dude...im feeling nice today:

google search:
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=bundera&btnG=Google+Search


Was that model sold in the States?

That model was certainly sold down here and the name was Land Cruiser II or Mark II. I will look for one of them.

Thanks

:jeep:

Originally posted by fatkid


I run a Toy front CV as a rear drive shaft, however I have no idea what I am talking about nor do any of the people on this board that have done the same thing. :)

Noted, but how many miles you drive a year? you change rear lower U Joint every how much time?

:)

Just build a full-floating rear & offset it the way you want it :grinpimp:

why bother, he can get this one over there!!

:flipoff2: you owe me one!!
P.S. im not in the US :rolleyes:

Originally posted by BJ On Roids
why bother, he can get this one over there!!



I am not certain, but I do not think there has ever been a factory full-floating Toyota pickup rear except in the 1-ton trucks?:confused:

I know there are rear FF's under some Land Cruisers, but they are bigger than 8".

Originally posted by GBRAVO


Noted, but how many miles you drive a year? you change rear lower U Joint every how much time?

:)

Not many, I only put around 3000 miles on it last year. However if your worried about changing a u joint I don't know what to say. U-Joints really don't bother me, and I have only had to change one thanks to the Hammers.