I need to communitate with those running divorced
toyota transfer cases in their Zuks.

I asked this question before and the responders for the most part never responded to my questions.

So once again, if you have one please let me know.

Here is a URL that has photos of my setup compared to the stock transfer case.

http://www.users.qwest.net/~salto/zukordual.htm

No flames, and No List searches !!!!!

that thing is right sexy!!! what motor are you going to run?? is that setup to bolt under a zuk?!? the double divorced setup is sweet!!

Like I said before - I'm waiting for parts.

BUT, it's nice to see that the zuk xfer + jack shaft is 1" longer than dual toy setup you got.

very nice setup Now what ya gonna do with that stock Sami case
whooom.....??????

i think that is the first divorced dual case i've seen. are you going to bolt your crossmember to both cases?

But you will still need to run a short intermediate shaft so the setup is going to have to be longer than shown right? You may not need as long of a shaft as the stock ZUk unit, but you still need something... How long of a shaft are you planning on using? I eventually want to get to this setup as well, don't see any reason to spend money on stock Zuk cases... When you do get it all setup, let us know how much longer it is with the propshaft as well...

Hugh

Due to the length of the dual unit it will have to be placed about 2 inches back for a jack shaft. I have been thinking about using a cv instrad of a u-joint.

The unit will also have to sit slightly lower, about 1 - 2 inches, this will come out of the 20 in of ground clearance. I do not want to clock the transfer case.

I have the hard part left, the mount and drive shafts. I need to position the unit to use stock length drive shafts to keep the cost down. Toyota used several front drive shaft lengths dur to their transmission used.

Has anyone fabricated a mount for a divorced toyota transfer case and a ZUK ?

Has anyone fabricated a mount for a divorced toyota transfer case and a ZUK ?

This sounds like a job for "Rotozuk!" (if I remember his user name right?)

Originally posted by LoneZuk
Due to the length of the dual unit it will have to be placed about 2 inches back for a jack shaft. I have been thinking about using a cv instrad of a u-joint.

The unit will also have to sit slightly lower, about 1 - 2 inches, this will come out of the 20 in of ground clearance. I do not want to clock the transfer case.

I have the hard part left, the mount and drive shafts. I need to position the unit to use stock length drive shafts to keep the cost down. Toyota used several front drive shaft lengths dur to their transmission used.

Has anyone fabricated a mount for a divorced toyota transfer case and a ZUK ?

i did it for a married setup... it can't be much different. might look into a mount that wraps around the rear output as well as bolting to the stock mounting points.

so who makes teh divorced adapter?? i checked inchworm's site and it didn't show that one, is it the OTT??


i sure hope someoen else is makign one now since OTT won't even return e-mail about trying to order from them as it is!

I've ordered my adapter from Jim at inchworm, since he's close to me, and the local OTT reseller.

I'm still waiting on it..

i emailed OTT about 4 months ago and never heard back... Good luck on that... Calling is most likely the best way to get them...

Originally posted by punkskalar
i emailed OTT about 4 months ago and never heard back... Good luck on that... Calling is most likely the best way to get them...


nope, just get's ya told they're not taking order's and to call back in 8-10 weeks!

Originally posted by DSI



nope, just get's ya told they're not taking order's and to call back in 8-10 weeks!

I guess business is good. Lets hope it stays good for them.:rolleyes:

What motor/trans will you be running? If this is a street rig at all, you will have major issues with the stock Engine. They operate a super high rpm's, and the stock sami t-case has a 1.42 Hi-Range reduction. Unless you're gonna run tiny tires, and super deep gears in your pigs, plan on a motor swap too.

OK.. Here's the dirt..

OTT is (or was) building a new facility from the ground up. They are going to have a lot more space, and all of that good stuff, but to be fair to customers, they planned to not take any orders until they were able to produce the parts again. My understanding is that they are a tool/machine company first, and the 4x4 stuff is a new business for them.

I recieved my OTT divorce kit from them some time before they started the new building.

I just picked up my mounting plates from my laser cutter last night. My rear mounting plate is a little bit off in the rear, but will work fine for my test mule setup. The front plate was a perfect fit. (Looks like it will work well with your Inchworm version of the divorced kit. (Does not appear to be an OTT product, by the way.))

I'm currently waiting for my stub shaft to be built at my local driveline shop. When talking to my driveline guy, he warned that I need to get that t-case mounted dead nuts or have vibrations. since I am mouting my t-case pretty high up in the vehicle, this is not an issue. He suggested going straight at the t-case from the tranny.

I'm not sure about your plan of running just a CV joint in the middle.. Ask a driveline shop what they think on that one.

I'll be running Toyota CV shafts front and rear. So I figure about $100 per shaft to make them the correct length, and install new u-joints.

I'll be working on the actual mounting system for the case this week. Not sure how long it will take me before I have some pictures for you. If you can give me a week, I should have something for you.

Oh yeah, I'm still waiting to hear back on my Marlin adapter. I have 2 t-cases sitting here, but no adapter. But I can start without it.

By the way, I will be using 4 polly bushings as the isolators. These are the same bushings that I have used on my engine mounts, and shackle mounts for the front suspension. I'm going to try to make service as easy as possible, and also need to leave space for my exhuast system and 4 link suspension.

LoneZuk - If you have any specific questions, please ask away. I think we are the first ones to hang the divorced cases. By the way, why do you not want to clock the case? It is such a minor clocking that it will not have any oiling issues.

Oh yeah, I am not using the stock crossmember mounts at all! I'm bolting off the case bolts on the front and rear of the cases. If you want, I can have a couple more of the very rough plates cut for you. They have the bolt holes, and inner section cut out, but the outside is just a basic square for now. I'm going to final shape the outside once I have it placed correctly in the frame.

If you are looking for a method of mounting this that is 100% bolt in, you aren't going to find it. This one requires cutting and welding. I could design something like that, but I doubt there would be enough people buying it to bother with such a large task. I see this as a very small production item at best.

I think what he means by Inchworm, is the dual case adapter, not the divorce case adapter.

I had a talk with Jim at Inchworm, and we made the decision to get the OTT divorce adapter, not make one from scratch (cost, and at THAT moment, time frame).

Rotozuk - pics would be good! I'm interested, I haven't figured out how to mount up the case yet - I'm kinda leaning towards the Bud Built crossmember/skid plate arrangement.

Originally posted by tdavis
Rotozuk - pics would be good! I'm interested, I haven't figured out how to mount up the case yet - I'm kinda leaning towards the Bud Built crossmember/skid plate arrangement.

I took a couple of digitals of the rough plates last night. But I left the camera in the garage. You will have to wait a day for those. Not much to see anyhow.

The plate is similar t the Bud built setup, but I leave it as just a raw plate to let each user figure out how they want to mount theirs. These cases are usually going to be in a pretty custom setup, so the less the better. I should be able to sell the plates for less then $30 US each. (maybe lower for Pirate members.)

since I have nothing hanging down below the frame, my skid plate will be attached to the bottom of the frame.

-Wayne

Is it just me or does this pic look like someone just cut the back off a 5spd extension housing and modified it into an adapter?

http://pics.montypics.com/Ruff_HILUX/2002-07-25/imageevq.jpg

Yep, thats what that looks like, and it can be done, all you really need is to seal the T-Case, and then get a yoke with the proper splines to fit onto the T-Case... And then you are done... Ill go that route, if I don't swap in an entire Toy 5 Speed...

Originally posted by punkskalar
all you really need is to seal the T-Case, and then get a yoke with the proper splines to fit onto the T-Case... And then you are done... ..

What about just below the flange??? I know on the OTT adapter it is raised slightly just below the flange. Almost like something has to move up into the front plate slightly?? I've never seen the OTT adapter up close so I was just wondering. Doesn't look like you can just use a flat plate to seal.

Trying to figure out weither it is worth the hassle to have one made up or wait for a OTT one for my Tacoma.

Thanks

Here are a couple of pictures of the rough plates I am starting with:

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/suzvstoy.html


And since people are talking about the divorce kits, here are the pictures of the unit when I first got it from OTT:

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/update12.html

note the bearing support, and the groove at the top makes room for the shift forks to move back and forth.

-Wayne

Finally got mine last night

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/xfer-case-640x480.jpg

Woo Hoo!

What do you think ?

Works like a charm.

The rear of the transmission is designed to fit and hold the transfer case bearings in.

Cutting it down and then milling the surface that you see is/was a fun process.

Please share with us your ideas for making the plate !!!!

Glad you got the major peices in. I'm still waiting on my adapter and reduction box myself.

But I did get my short drive shaft last week:

http://RZ-Products.COM/WAYNE/UPDATES/update20.html

You don't want to know how long it is! I'm now considering marrying the t-case to my tranny as it will safe me over a foot!!

Not an easy task though.

-Wayne

The length of the overall package including the
intermediate shaft is over whelming. I figure
that the rear driveshaft will be about 1 - 2 inches shorter than stock even with my lift.

I have looked into using adapters and a toyota
5 speed and sidekick bell housing but that
adds at least another 1000 to the project. At
that rate one could get a 22R,trans and
transfercase from a 83-85 pickup for a few hundred
leaving money for a set of 4.7 gears.

Based on this I am still looking into the divorced solution.

putting it together, for some thinking time.

pics

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/coupled-2.jpg

http://www.explorerforum.com/tdavis/zuk/coupled-3.jpg

tDavis - I strongly suggest you use a pair of u-joints on that driveshaft!!! If not, then you better plan to rigid mount that t-case to the transmission so there can be NO movement between them. I think you will be chasing horrible vibrations until you decide to put a normal 2 joint shaft in there.

I have heard from several people that have tried to get away with just one joint, and they have all switched over to a double jointed shaft. I do not know of anyone that has managed to make just one work, and that is in any type of rig, not just a Samurai.

Even with a 2 joint shaft, alignment is still critical. My driveline shop warned me that I should have the joints all perfectly straight on mine. And I always thought you wanted 1 or 2 degrees in a u-joint.

Also I noticed some oil on the back of your tranny. This may have just collected there, or it may be a leak at the slip yoke bushing. Did your Zuk leak gear oil when the nose was up high in the air? If so, then you will need to locate a good tail housing as that bushing is not replacable. (Like a Toyota). I had a tranny shop replace just the bushing once as they thought that a custom bushing was better then replacing the tail housing. It siezed up within 100 miles. :mad: Then I got a used tail housing, and all was fine. No more leaks either. :D Just a heads up while you have it apart.

-Wayne

hmm..

As for the single u-joint - I was planning on rigid attachment of the xfer case to the tranny, and using the xfer case's mounts as the rubber portion.

the oil, is from a spill. we tipped the tranny over. We did accidently destroy the reverse switch - have to find a replacement for it.