I got a lead on a front D44 for $100-150. What is the diff. between a HD and regular D44? He said the only diff. was the spindles - HD he said was 8 lug. Is this right? I would love to score a front 44 for $100 but was waiting for a HD44. Thanks!

I believe that the tubing is also heavier.
my chevy dana HD44 has 1/2 thick wall tubing,
besides the larger spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers and backing plates. You cannot run a 15" wheel with the HD brakes.

HD is BS...the only difference between 1/2 ton D44 and 3/4 ton is the outers. 3/4 ton has the 8 lug outers. You can run 15" wheels on the 3/4 ton version, but it requires some grinding of the calipers and backing plate to clearance...

100 bones is a decent price for a D44.

Rene

Originally posted by jeepnbob1:
<STRONG>I believe that the tubing is also heavier.
my chevy dana HD44 has 1/2 thick wall tubing,
besides the larger spindles, hubs, rotors, calipers and backing plates. You cannot run a 15" wheel with the HD brakes.</STRONG>
my 44 has 1/2" wall tubes it was 6 lug

Originally posted by tRustyK5:
<STRONG>HD is BS...the only difference between 1/2 ton D44 and 3/4 ton is the outers. 3/4 ton has the 8 lug outers. You can run 15" wheels on the 3/4 ton version, but it requires some grinding of the calipers and backing plate to clearance...

100 bones is a decent price for a D44.

Rene</STRONG>

more webbing and thicker tubes, there IS a difference - wether it makes a difference is another issue..

Originally posted by JIM3030:
my 44 has 1/2" wall tubes it was 6 lug[/QB]

Weird... mine is 3/8" wall - it was 6-lug. I just hacked mine up:
http://209.53.37.213/~u2slow/sidetrack/d44/Photo150.jpg

mine was from a 74 1/2 ton chevy. there was an H stamped on the tube all by itself?? 1/2" wall for sure

My 78 6lug was 3/8

Well like Brandon said there is a difference but really it doesn't make a difference because the weak link on a D44 is the 297s and they both run em...I would say get it if it will work for your app...especially for 100 bones <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

jump on them good deal....

Originally posted by Shaker:
<STRONG>jump on them good deal....</STRONG>

I posted this before I talked to you saturday <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Well, if anyone cares I have a 1-ton D44 out of a pre 73 chev. And YES they did make them. The only difference is the Joints have no needle bearings, hence the strenght for the 1-ton. I have one and will sell it for 200 if you want it! <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Guile:
<STRONG>1-ton D44</STRONG>

<IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/laughing.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/thefinger.gif" border="0">

Damn - That's some good sh!t you're <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0">

No factory GM 1-ton 4x4 until 77. Anything earlier was done by a conversion company like Napco, Fabco, Marmon-Herrington, Pathfinder, whatever. Either that or its homebrew.

Sounds more like a heavy service package for a 3/4-ton - perhaps military.

Originally posted by brector:
<STRONG>I posted this before I talked to you saturday <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

DID YOU GET THEM YET!!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/smokin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

My 44 was paired with a D70 rear! They only put them in 1 tons. Anyway, I don't see any special markings on it or anything. But for the QUES. at hand, I'd just go with the reg. 44 and order 3/4 ton outers for it. They both are about the same strength, but like I said, it's just the needle bearings, there is none. So just go regular 44. The u-joints for the HD are way expensive and hard to find!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Guile:
<STRONG>....it's just the needle bearings, there is none. So just go regular 44. The u-joints for the HD are way expensive and hard to find!!! <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

How expensive and how hard? Do you have sources or part numbers? Are they Spicer joints? I've actually never heard of 297 size joints without rollers, other than what Jesse has been cooking up.

There were a lot of HD 44 housing end up in 74's and 75. My 75 Jimmy had one. The Tubes are thicker but the problem is the same U-Joints and still the same failure point...when they housing fails it's usualy where the short side tube is pressed into the pumpkin. It will blow out the bottom of the housing and come off. Not much of a gain with the Tube thickness because that's rarely Wher you have a problem. Keep the truck on the ground and don't try to fly 6,000 lb of steel and you will probably never have a housing problem...probably.

The heavy-duty 44 front with 1/2" tubes etc. has 44-50F cast into the web (not 44-5F, this is a small-tube GM). I've also never heard of anything stronger than a 297 in a 44, except Jesse's new ones, but I do have some without needles - just that they've been ground into powder. Are you sure this isn't another 12-bolt front? <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Grim Reaper:
<STRONG>There were a lot of HD 44 housing end up in 74's and 75. My 75 Jimmy had one. The Tubes are thicker but the problem is the same U-Joints and still the same failure point...when they housing fails it's usualy where the short side tube is pressed into the pumpkin. It will blow out the bottom of the housing and come off.</STRONG>

Hmmm.. I blew mine apart on the long-side. 'bout two weeks ago.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

'74 1/2T with the 0.5" tubes.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/8_29_2001/dcp_0002s.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/carnage07.jpg

I even managed to break the carrier while I was at it! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/pics05.jpg

I haven't broken the SMALL joint axles (at least, I think they were the small joint.. I'll know for sure when I replace the joint on the short-side before I put the new front end in) yet with 350hp/400lbs-ft, 4.88s, 31x15.50s and a heavy right foot.. I've broken a few spring packs tho'.


Only took 3860lbs to blow my front end apart. Still.. 3 years on an untrussed front end. It was a matter of time.

-Tom
We Race (and Break) Farm Equipment (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/8_25_2001.html)

Well - I got a front 44! It is a HD44 - has 44-50F cast in it <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">. I got it for $100 but it was missing a few parts. But I found them locally already.

I was looking through some 4x4 mags and a few shops list different prices for the 1/2 ton and the 3/4 ton ujoints. I also found a shop that sells complete axle assemblies with a lifetime warrenty. I'm going to look into that - it's around $550 for both sides complete.

Just thought I'd give an update! <IMG SRC="smilies/smile.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by brector:
<STRONG>

I was looking through some 4x4 mags and a few shops list different prices for the 1/2 ton and the 3/4 ton ujoints. I also found a shop that sells complete axle assemblies with a lifetime warrenty. I'm going to look into that - it's around $550 for both sides complete.

</STRONG>
Keep us posted on what you find out about this stuff!

<STRONG>Originally posted by SquirrelMaster:

Keep us posted on what you find out about this stuff!</STRONG>

Will do!

Originally posted by Lloyd:
<STRONG>The heavy-duty 44 front with 1/2" tubes etc. has 44-50F cast into the web (not 44-5F, this is a small-tube GM). I've also never heard of anything stronger than a 297 in a 44, except Jesse's new ones, but I do have some without needles - just that they've been ground into powder. Are you sure this isn't another 12-bolt front? <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Nope. I have a 72 K5 Blazer 44-5F and it has 1/2" tubes

Ok - hear's the skinny:

Drivetrain Warehouse (888)432-7656 sells lifetime warrenty alloy *inner* shafts for the 3/4 ton D44. Long side is $169, short is $149. He said it is a no questions asked policy. I think these along with Jesse's super ujoints will be the route I go. Now - I have to decide if I should get alloy outers from Moser or somewhere.

Originally posted by brector:
<STRONG>Ok - hear's the skinny:

Drivetrain Warehouse (888)432-7656 sells lifetime warrenty alloy *inner* shafts for the 3/4 ton D44. Long side is $169, short is $149. He said it is a no questions asked policy. I think these along with Jesse's super ujoints will be the route I go. Now - I have to decide if I should get alloy outers from Moser or somewhere.</STRONG>

JUST the 3/4T or do the have the 1/2 Ton as well.

Is there any diferance between the two inners?? I got some sitting here, and the 3/4 ton ones are thicker, but neck down at the same points, and have the same end dimentions.

do they do custom?? or have other aplications avaliable in liftime alloy??
thanks
-mark

Originally posted by RustoleumWhite:
<STRONG>JUST the 3/4T or do the have the 1/2 Ton as well.

Is there any diferance between the two inners?? I got some sitting here, and the 3/4 ton ones are thicker, but neck down at the same points, and have the same end dimentions.

do they do custom?? or have other aplications avaliable in liftime alloy??
thanks
-mark</STRONG>

I'm not sure - the article I saw showed 1/2 ton stuff - so I'd say they have the inners, outers, and possibly the ujoints. Call them and find out if you want to.

Originally posted by tsm1mt:
<STRONG>Hmmm.. I blew mine apart on the long-side. 'bout two weeks ago.. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

'74 1/2T with the 0.5" tubes.

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/8_29_2001/dcp_0002s.jpg
http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/carnage07.jpg

I even managed to break the carrier while I was at it! <IMG SRC="smilies/eek.gif" border="0">

http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/pics05.jpg

I haven't broken the SMALL joint axles (at least, I think they were the small joint.. I'll know for sure when I replace the joint on the short-side before I put the new front end in) yet with 350hp/400lbs-ft, 4.88s, 31x15.50s and a heavy right foot.. I've broken a few spring packs tho'.


Only took 3860lbs to blow my front end apart. Still.. 3 years on an untrussed front end. It was a matter of time.

-Tom
We Race (and Break) Farm Equipment (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/8_25_2001.html)</STRONG>

OHHHH that's some quality breakage there! Rough landing?
I've seen pictures of both tubes off but mostly I see the short side go. I figure the leverage against the pumpkin is higher since only one U-bolt goes around the tube. The leverage against the short side would seem to be greater if you look at the leverage from the piviot point of the spring.

Originally posted by brector:
<STRONG>I'm not sure - the article I saw showed 1/2 ton stuff - so I'd say they have the inners, outers, and possibly the ujoints. Call them and find out if you want to.</STRONG>

thanks a bunch!!

<IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Grim Reaper:
<STRONG>OHHHH that's some quality breakage there! Rough landing?
</STRONG>

Uh.. yeah. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> I didn't clear the "doubles".. thought I slowed up enough to make it two jumps.. instead, I went just slow enough to not clear the second jump, just fast enough to not make it two - slammed the nose right into the face of the second one and then sent the nose straight up before landing in a big pile of dust with the front end smiling at everyone. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

<STRONG>
I've seen pictures of both tubes off but mostly I see the short side go. I figure the leverage against the pumpkin is higher since only one U-bolt goes around the tube. The leverage against the short side would seem to be greater if you look at the leverage from the piviot point of the spring.</STRONG>


That makes sense. I think in my case part of the problem was I had "narrowed up" the spring perch on the pass side for my 2" Scout II springs, so both U-bolts went around the pumpkin. Not too bad of a situation, except the outboard U-bolt popped off the housing in the process, letting the axle pivot a bit around the spring.

That might've been why the long-side broke, or it could be because the U-bolts stayed put at first, and it didn't have any leverage on the center section from the pass side, but the driver's side had plenty. Only AFTER it broke the U-bolt let loose..

In either case, I broke it. <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0">

New housing will be trussed before I put it in - by someone that knows better than me (my first truss broke off on it's second weekend of use, so I didn't bother making the same mistake twice)

-Tom
Video of my crash - 636k (http://tigger.tmcom.com/~tsm1/scout/jpg/racing/8_25_2001/384/tom_ouch.mpg)

What they have done with the joints is, turned down a 3/4 ton joint so it would fit into the 297 endcaps. Some other company made them, like Napco or something, some aftermarket brand. Where to find them, I don't know, but a friend quoted me that they cost 3 to 4 times more than a regular 3/4 ton joint! Hope that aswers it all. <IMG SRC="smilies/pissed.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/idea.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce2.gif" border="0">