I know this is a dilemma that most who are running this tranny have faced.

Here is a pic

http://tellico.off-road.com/wwwthreads_uploads/838227-DSC00028a.JPG


If you look at the pic you can see that when the drivehshaft travels up it will contact the tranny pan. This is the original shaft and is 3/8" smaller in diameter than the shaft Jesse will be making. I have clocked the D300 with a Go2guy ring to try and get as flat a skidplate as possible.

Options so far:

1: cut the pan back; anyone done this? How far can I go? I would need to cut it back completely past the bolt to clear the shaft.

2: 2 piece driveshaft with a carrier bearing; interesting, sounds expensive though

3: Give up on the entire project, part it out and take the wife to Hawaii for a few weeks. (she is standing behind me and believes that this is the preferred solution. :flipoff2:

4: Remove the clocking ring and position the D300 hanging down like stock. I'll do option 3 before I go back to this. :eek:

Had my 727 pan off the other day and it looks like you can at least cut and angle it towards lip or kind of flatten it out...
should be enuff clearance if you do that...thats where your dipstick goes in ...so be carefull

Surely others have had this issue? Btt

usually this issue is resolved by more lift. looks like you got a spring over. however you also clocked the D300, so I imagine your going to have to go even higher. are those lift springs? if so then I dont konw what to tell you. I guess take it to a machinest and have them trim the pan.

also try this... disconnect the drive shaft and ramp your jeep to see how much up travel you have. then reconnect one end of the shaft while on the ramp and see how much higher the pinion is than the highest the d-shaft will go. you may solve the problem with inch higer lift springs or so. just a thought.

i solved this by running wider axls and outboarding the springs on a cj.
what setup do you have?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by snacksnack
[B]i solved this by running wider axls and outboarding the springs on a cj.


Looks like he's already got D60 in the front....can't get much wider than that

A buddy of mine was going to try off setting the motor mounts an inch or so towards the drivers side.

Running a 60 up front but I narrowed it 4" off the long side. This aligned the cast in perch on pig. A good idea I thought.

The springs are Rancho 44044s with some large shackles. This thing is way to high as it is. My 38.5 sx's barely enter the wheel wells. I need to lower it alot.

Jesse and talked about running the 2 piece shaft today. It may be an valid optiion. I would really like to avoid it if at all possible.

I am going to pull the pan and try to judge if I have enough room to cut it back. If I cut back the tranny case and pan, how much of a lip should I leave to make sure the pan seals?

yeah outboarding the hanger to move the pig out is a bonus if you want to run an auto....especially the 727.

We had the same issue putting a 2000 Vortec and 4l60e in recently. We angle the entire drivertrain slightly and used a moderatly (3") offset rear diff. Made clearance up front a breeze WITH the Tcase clocked flat.

Ed

if you notch the case...I would double lip the pan about no less than 1/2" of a lip ...double lip will help spread the clamping force from the closest two bolt holes

seeeing you are stuck with that front axl on the frame rails you might just consider going to a tf999 if you dont have to much engine and the trimming on the pan dosent work out

those of us with sm420's face a similar problem. I've been pondering a 2 piece shaft to gain some clearence on the 420.

WOW! Mine looks nothing like that! but then again i dot have a clocked t case...i would Un clock the t-case if it came down to it. i had to sell my RC d44 for a regular d44 to solve my problem...i would stick to the 727 you will like it....


Chris G.

I reallly don't want to part with the 727. It has been recently rebuilt, I just intalled a transgo reprogramming kit and bought a new Hughes torque converter for it. It is gonna stay.

By the time I get the suspension figured out I am going to be quite a bit lower that I am currently. Which means this problem is just going to get worse. :( But being lower means the ground clearance will be much important. Have to keep the tc clocked.

So it looks like I'll have to bite the bullet and spend for that two piece. I just don't have a big enough set to cut that tranny back as far as I would have to. :flipoff2:

Anyone have one on there front shaft? Lets see a pic. ( for some reason I don't they are very common ) :D

just unclock the t-case and then raise the motor, tranny, and t-case up has high as possible. you might be able to get it up there higher than you think. when i used to run a np435 and d300 i did not have it clocked but i had it raised up so high that it barely hung below the frame rails. then again i run a 3" body lift so i had lots of room to raise it.

Originally posted by high5
just unclock the t-case and then raise the motor, tranny, and t-case up has high as possible.

Seems to me raising the CoG with stuff as heavy as a motor, trans and t-case could lead to stability issues. But what the hell do I know.:flipoff2:

i would un clock the t case, if that DS is $$$$. people run that tcase all day hanging down like that...


Chris G.

The shaft cost is about double what a normal one will cost. But I really think it will be necessary and worth it.

I have cheaped out on lots of things and lived to regret it. I am not going to on this one though. If I just unclock the case I will ruin the flush with the frame flat skid I so dearly desire. I would be reminded of it every time I heard that clunk and the lack of orward motion that would accompany it.

I am running no body lift. I just need to cut a little of the tub to get the transfer case another inch higher and everything will be above the rails. :cool:

The kids are just going to have to get by with only half a plate of rice this next week. I don't think they will mind, they are getting a little chunky anyway!:D

I would like to see a pic of this two piece drive shaft if any one has one. I have been debating this same thing.

Heres the Clearance (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/7f36a76f/bc/Jeep/Driveshaft+Clearance.jpg?bckmZb9As0BZldeL) i have running 2.5" SOA with full width Scout 44.

#2 (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/7f36a76f/bc/Jeep/Driveshaft+Clearance---1.jpg?bckmZb9AXl.39G37)
#3 (http://us.f1.yahoofs.com/users/7f36a76f/bc/Jeep/Driveshaft+Clearance---2.jpg?bckmZb9AhJN7KrGF)

I too was wondering about the double DS. I'd like to see pics if you go that route.

Mo