Took my t-case out and was cleaning it and I ran across this:

http://www.mo-4xtoys.com/torc/P0001001crop.JPG

It is right beside the front axle indicator switch on the top of the front output housing. It looks like something has broken off but I have know idea what it was as it was long gone before I dropped the case. This is on an SII D300. Anyone know what was once there?

That's where the flux capacitor went...it's broke and yer fawked:flipoff2:

Originally posted by Scout Dude
That's where the flux capacitor went...it's broke and yer fawked:flipoff2:
Oh damn!! Now I'm really screwed!!!!

That is the poor excuse for a plug used to cover the hole that access the detent ball and springs. As you said the one on the right is the front axle engaged switch. The left is the rear rail. I replaced mine with a plug from a D20. Leave it, it'll be fine.

Joe

Thanks.... I can't really tell, is it sealed or is there the possibility of letting water into the case? Should I put a little dab of silicone over the opening?

Originally posted by TORC
Thanks.... I can't really tell, is it sealed or is there the possibility of letting water into the case? Should I put a little dab of silicone over the opening?

You could twist it out and apply some sealer.

Joe

Joe, you ever have one of these apart? I need to partially disassemble this one to put new seals and such in it. My service manual only covers the D-20 and earlier cases. Do you have any better info or is it pretty straight forward?

Originally posted by Scout Dude
That's where the flux capacitor went...it's broke and yer fawked:flipoff2:

:laughing:

Originally posted by TORC
Joe, you ever have one of these apart? I need to partially disassemble this one to put new seals and such in it. My service manual only covers the D-20 and earlier cases. Do you have any better info or is it pretty straight forward?

Partially, I don't think so :D Depends on if you are replacing the seals the correct way or not. If you pull the front output support to replace the gasket then you should do a full rebuild as you should adjust the front output end play. If you are only replacing the output seals then you can use the slide hammer trick. The 300 is almost identical to the 20. Just confirm the torque and play specs.

You should be able to rebuild the entire case in an afternoon with proper tools. If you don't have an impact gun remove the yokes with the case still installed in the rig.

Originally posted by jdjanda


Partially, I don't think so :D Depends on if you are replacing the seals the correct way or not. If you pull the front output support to replace the gasket then you should do a full rebuild as you should adjust the front output end play. If you are only replacing the output seals then you can use the slide hammer trick. The 300 is almost identical to the 20. Just confirm the torque and play specs.

You should be able to rebuild the entire case in an afternoon with proper tools. If you don't have an impact gun remove the yokes with the case still installed in the rig.
Well, I do have air tools and the case is already sittin' on the floor:D . The gasket and seal kit that I bought has shift rail seals, output seals, output housing to case gaskets, all the cover gaskets and a shim pack. Unless I find some bad bearings or such that needs replacement, it sounds like I have pretty much everything I need (would be nice to have a 4:1 kit while I was in there). So basically, if I use the D20 info from the service manual, that should be pretty close to the same procedure? A friend of mine is sending me the 'instructions' that came with a tera-low kit he put in a Jeep 300. As I understand it, the Jeep 300 is pretty much the same except for how the large gear on the output shaft comes out. Thanks :beer: