A few months ago I put an ARB in the front of my rig. I got a good price on it but I was still too cheap to buy an ARB compressor.

what I did was run it off of a air tank behind my pass seat via a quick dissconect untill I got a york.

So now I finally got a york going and I went to set up the arb switch. The switch and the valve seemed like allot of BS to perform a simple task. All of it would be neccasary if I was running the arb pump, but with a york and a tank, no dice.

I eliminated all electrical circuits an picked up a switch valve from granger ($20).
I just figure, less to go wrong.

<IMG width=640 height=480 SRC="http://www.pirate4x4.com/ubb/uploads/arbswitch.jpg">

If a budget minded person like me ( cheap ass ) was getting into an ARB and didnt want to spring for an ARB comp or even a york, They could allways just run an air tank and one of these switches. It would be all together around 40 bucks or so.

<IMG SRC="smilies/biggrin.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

Don

There is a guy in my club that runs his ARB off Paintball CO2 bottles.

He can run Front and Rear ARB's all weekend on one bottle.

You should think about that.

Email him: Jeff Jones jeffj@directlink.net

you can get similar switches manufacturer direct for $12. I will post the name and contact tomorrow. Don't have it with me.

Originally posted by wngrog:
<STRONG>Don

There is a guy in my club that runs his ARB off Paintball CO2 bottles.

He can run Front and Rear ARB's all weekend on one bottle.

You should think about that.

Email him: Jeff Jones jeffj@directlink.net</STRONG>

cool, now thats compact <IMG SRC="smilies/wink.gif" border="0">
when I used just a tank (no comp) I would put 80-90 lbs in it and after fliping the ARB 20 or so times, it barely droped a couple pounds.

I have it all buttoned up now. I am running a York to a 12 gallon air tank in the back of my rig. From there it splits into two circuits, high preasure (for tires and tools) and regulated (for ARB) <IMG SRC="smilies/bounce.gif" border="0"> <IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: fc187 ]

I don't get it.
The switches I use and have seen are all 3way versions. The third nipple is the exhaust for pressure relief.
Seems your 2 way version will charge your ARB line but does nothing to purge the air pressure to release the locker when you switch it off.

Here's how I set up mine ...
http://www.monsterslayer.com/jeep/images/ConsolAirSwitch.jpg

<STRONG>
The switches I use and have seen are all 3way versions. </STRONG>

The 2 port switches exhaust out the body of the switch.

Yep, I'm running a Pneumodyne manual toggle, that has two ports, the exhaust comes out small holes just below the toggle base.

I bought it from McMaster-Carr, I had asked them if it was an exhausting switch and they told me "no". I was able to find out for sure from the Pneumodyne's site.

Works great BTW.

The manual toggles eliminate most of the bitches people have about the "unreliable" ARBs.

Charly

I love my pneumatic switches. Running all the electric crap that goes with the arb is a pain.

Originally posted by Dan-H:
<STRONG>
The switches I use and have seen are all 3way versions. </STRONG>

The 2 port switches exhaust out the body of the switch.

OK, sure...
But you guys will find out pretty soon if you wheel with any 'attitude' that there'll be more than just air coming out those little holes ...

<IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

I am a diesel mechanic so I used an air toggle switch for the differential lock on a diesel truck. It even has 2 connections if you want to run an indicator light.

Clippard sells pneumatic controls, I've ordered a switch valve from them before.

Clippard (http://www.clippard.com)

Originally posted by Jaffer:
<STRONG>OK, sure...
But you guys will find out pretty soon if you wheel with any 'attitude' that there'll be more than just air coming out those little holes ...

<IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

Yeah, you're right, I'm just a no "attitude" wheelin' pussy

I'm pretty new to the whole pneumatic seen but I too am way too cheap to spend close to $200 to shove a little bit of air into my diff.

Can anyone tell me what I need to go from the standard automobile quick disconnect (such as found on the regular of a powertank) to the input of one of these clippard switches (10-32 thread)? And then what do I need to interface the switch to this fancy size 5mm hose it comes with? I found a 1/8" to 10-32 adapter at clippard.com but .125 != .196 (5mm in inches). I imagine if I just knew what these were called I could figure it out by calling this clippard place. If anyone has part numbers of that or another vendor that too would be great.

Originally posted by Dan-H:
<STRONG>
The switches I use and have seen are all 3way versions. </STRONG>

The 2 port switches exhaust out the body of the switch.


Ya, its hard to tell from my pic but there is a 1/8 npt ex port on the back of the switch that I ended up running a line out of.
<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>I'm pretty new to the whole pneumatic seen but I too am way too cheap to spend close to $200 to shove a little bit of air into my diff.

Can anyone tell me what I need to go from the standard automobile quick disconnect (such as found on the regular of a powertank) to the input of one of these clippard switches (10-32 thread)? And then what do I need to interface the switch to this fancy size 5mm hose it comes with? I found a 1/8" to 10-32 adapter at clippard.com but .125 != .196 (5mm in inches). I imagine if I just knew what these were called I could figure it out by calling this clippard place. If anyone has part numbers of that or another vendor that too would be great.</STRONG>

I would recomend getting a swich that has NPT thread (standard pipe threads). way way easier to get fittings for and I belive clippard offers the same swich with pipe threads. On the swich I used in the first pic, It had three 1/8" npt ports. in/out/ex. The ARB line has the same OD as 3/16 line so I used three 1/8npt to 3/16" compesion fittings. any decent plumbing supply store will have them.Oh! and far as the tank goes, you just need a bushing to adapt the opening down to 1/8"npt (50 cent part) CAKE!
<IMG SRC="smilies/beer.gif" border="0">

[ 10-09-2001: Message edited by: fc187 ]

Originally posted by BigBadBob:
<STRONG>I'm pretty new to the whole pneumatic seen but I too am way too cheap to spend close to $200 to shove a little bit of air into my diff.
</STRONG>

How bout $56 bucks?
http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/toyota/tech/caddy_comp/

Originally posted by Charly:
<STRONG>Yeah, you're right, I'm just a no "attitude" wheelin' pussy</STRONG>

Take it easy, Charlie.
I guess you did not get my pun.
By 'Attitude' I also meant that when you go extreme nose up or nose down gear oil gets in the line and will drip all over the place through those "little holes" in that switch body.
That is why I keep suggesting a 3 way with a third fitting to route the gas and oil out of the cab.
In fact, I had to lengthen my exhaust line a little farther aft on my under carriage because it was dripping oil on my frame rail wiring harness.
The illustrated 3 way, 3 fittings style of switch I used can be had for $ 12 bucks.
So no offence given ... OK?

been covered, but here it is. As mentioned above go to clippard pneumatic. Pn that I used is mjtv-3. it has 3 1/8"npt ports. about$12. And on a side note, if you have oil coming out the exhaust, you have leaky o rings or oil is getting into the arb from the compressor or another way. Is is compressor oil or diff oil? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0">

Originally posted by Aggro:
<STRONG>been covered, but here it is. As mentioned above go to clippard pneumatic. Pn that I used is mjtv-3. it has 3 1/8"npt ports. about$12. And on a side note, if you have oil coming out the exhaust, you have leaky o rings or oil is getting into the arb from the compressor or another way. Is is compressor oil or diff oil? <IMG SRC="smilies/usa.gif" border="0"></STRONG>

I'm running CO2 so it's not compressor oil.
The third line is run outside because it is common for ARB equipped rigs here in Farmington to spit a little oil through the exhaust line from the toggle switch so don't go telling me I have some kind of problem with it.
Just trying to give some good advice.
Take it, leave it, or keep a rag handy ...

<IMG SRC="smilies/tongue.gif" border="0">

I've been running these switches for a few years now -- this technologoy has been around FOREVER...

I use switches that vent through the body, too, and I've never gotten lube outta the switch body. Then again, my ARB seals are in good shape, and that oughta keep most of that juice outta the locker pressure line. Also, my air lines follow the leaf springs to the axle, so there are enough bends and dips so that any stray diff lube never makes it into the cab...

If I ever do get some in the cab from the switch, I'll just unscrew the fitting at the diff, plug in my air compressor, and let it blow the lines clear for ten minutes or so... this just isn't that big a deal.

One more thought -- the little propane bottle I use for a local reservoir holds enough air for a few hundred diff lockings... you really don't need much volume at all if you have an air-tight system.

Randii

Originally posted by Charly:
<STRONG>Yeah, you're right, I'm just a no "attitude" wheelin' pussy</STRONG>

Well he's got the no attitude part dead wrong!!!!!! :b

MJ <IMG SRC="smilies/clown.gif" border="0">