Hi all

I hope you guys are not dicks like the others are to newbies. I don't know any other chat room for Jeep Grand Cherokees. First off I have a 73 international scout II its lifted with 35 and ready for off road but i baby it. I am starting a new job and need a little more classy truck. I know I want A 1993-1995 Jeep grand cherokee limited i want one with about 100,000-120,000 miles on it. I need some info I know the front is a Dana 30 what is in the back and how many gear sets are there. What is the transfer case and i want a manual shifter for 4 wheel drive instead of that all wheel drive junk. I dont Know if the limited even had a manual 4 wheel drive. First off I want an old man emu springs and lift. Does any one have the lift is it hard to drive. I know the kit comes with all new parts for the drive tran I want to have 37-12.5 is the dana 30 is that to small for the 37s. I know thats higher then the scout but the jeep has nicer running boards. Or should I get the spacer lift for 3 inches i dont feel thats as safe. Are all jeep wheels the same. And who has one off those roof racks and what company has that.

Thanks
Chad Wojdacz
orangescout2@netzero.com

i dont know all that much about cherokees i know more about cjs. but the rear end is probably a 44 or 35. 37's are to much for that dana 30 front if your planning on wheeling. there are plenty of gear sets for it tho. i think you can do a 4.88 gear ratio for them. which can be pretty price to have the axles re geared. and if you dont want to cut wheel wells your probably gonna need to spring over with like 4 springs but im not positive. and your gonna need to do a tcase drop or re do the pinion angle. i think the cherokes have 231 tcases

www.mallcrawlin.com
www.jeepforum.com
www.jeepsunlimited.com

to put a twist on it i know that the 93 model only had an aw-4 if you for some reason prefer that POS (only behind 6cly.) i have a limited with a 6cyl. and it has the aw-4 then a np249 whitch is the all wheel drive crap but it does have a maunal 4 wheel low the rear i bielive is a cystler 8.25 (the only reason im not sure is its my pavement pounder and i dont care) all zjs have a D30 front witch is an ok axle up 35s if your nice the rear will either be a cystler 8.25 or an aluminum D44 (dont be fooled by the aluminum its a junk axle)

they are tough little machines if you fix the right things get rid of the stock rear end put a real transfer case in put rocker guards on it and unibody stiffeners and she'll go

as for lift youll learn the down side of the zjs

over 3.5 inches you pretty much need long arms
period

ive driven a zj with 4 inches and short arms and it scared me
defently go over to mallcrawlin.com and just read a couple build threads
everything over there is a grand

also there is a jeep cherokee forum here too that has alot of grand tech

I built a 94 and let me tell you a few things first.

From 93-95 the only rear end used in the ZJ was the Dana 35 which won't hold up to anything larger than 31's and won't even hold 31's when locked.

Limiteds only came with the AWD NP249 T-case that uses the Viscous Coupler which will fail every 75K or so. It is not hard to swap a NP242 or NP231 in place of this to give you a 4x2 position and a true 4x4 position.

I-6's came with either the AW-4 (the best auto trans used in a ZJ), 42RE (the auto that they used until 04), or the AX-15. Mine came with the 42RE, and I swapped an AX-15 into it.

V8's came with the 46RH in the years you mentioned. It's a decent trans and when rebuilt can be built properly to handle whatever you want. Just ensure you run an extra aftermarket trans cooler to keep the beast happy.

For 37's you need a long arm lift. If you cannot build it yourself, get it from www.claytonoffroad.com. They make some of the best long arm kits around. You will need at least 7" of lift and lots of trimming. If you plan on locking your axles, go and get a set of 60's, you might get away with a front 44 if you have an ARB or OX that you can unlock to turn with, but a D44 probably won't last too long in the rear with that combo.

With a ZJ, build it once and do it right.

Remember ZJ's and XJ's utilize a unibody frame, you will need do some beefing up to it to run 37's. I've seen them crack and fail and yes it's not pretty.

Lastly, I sold my ZJ, and bought a K-5 Blazer, for a reason. Many gremlins in the electricals of these Jeeps. Keep a really healthy battery in there, or it will drive you nuts! Also, when you get one, pull the driver's door panel and cut the yellow wire with purple tracer (it could be purple with yellow tracer, I cannot remember, I do know that you won't find both types under there) and make sure you ground the end coming from the vehicle side. If you don't the factory alarm will make you regret your purchase. The alarm switches in the door locks get funky when they age and sometimes they work, often times they don't, leaving you stranded till you can figure out a way to disable the sucker. Putting your key in all three door locks and turning both ways might disable it, then you have the fun of figuring out which ones work and which don't.

Have fun, I used to be a Mod on Jeepforum.com, lots of good info and people there.

Personally, I'd rather have the Scout.