hey guys..
this is for my mate...

he has recently put toy diffs (80 moddle) under his WT sierra.

it is useing a doubble cardon, shorted shaft in the rear.

and the diffs have been freshly rebuilt with arb lockers...

the problem is that is has a SERVEER viabration, to the point it is nearly undrivable on the street.

the drive shaft has been in and checked, its good, brand new uni's etc...

he has experemented with twisting the transfer around a few ' to make the shaft straighter, NO DIFFRENCE at all..

we have tryed nearly everything... nothing sceems to make it better...

also when the rig is rolling you can hear a "clicking" noise, and when the backwheels are in the air on jack stands, and the diffs is turned buy hand it can be felt..

the diff center has been out and into the place where it was rebuilt (ARB) and they see NO issue at all with it..

i have surgested a bent axel but the axels have come out of a lux that was owned buy his father and never sceen a hard time...

the wheelbering spin nice and free..

i am realy at a loss... nothing sceems to make it better....

any ideas guys??

Phil

ok.. another phone call..

at any speed, as in rolling along, about in time with every wheel roataion there is a click..

then as you go faster it gets worse.. then at about 20kph it turns in to more of a shutter or viabration...

still thinking bent axel, wheel bering, or bearing carrier is out of wack... with locker?

Gi,day there phil, How big a lift on the rig and whats the pinion angle like. Have you tried spinning the wheels on axle stands to watch for bent axles? Also try loading the rear up and take some drive line angle out, lowering the chassic to diff/ and has the drive shaft still got room to compress on the spline.. Also check the out put flange on the transfer. I bent one on my truck. Cheers.

not my rig..
BUT its only soa on standard hight springs.

it has been spun, everything nice and true...

but havent check for axel.

I would check to see if that clicking noise is the u-joints. Very common problem with a Toyota axle conversion on a zuk. Without pics I'm going to hazard a guess that you started with a passenger offset t-case to passenger offset zuk axle. I'm also going to assume that your setup is now passenger drop suzuki t-case to a centered diff Toyota axle. That in itself can/will cause vibration, especially when you shorten the rear shaft. A CV joint will absorb some of the vibration but if the driveline is at a severe angle from the t-case to the pinion flange it may cause vibration. Sky Mfg sells a Toyota axle housing that offsets the diff for applications like this and for the reasons your running into. Here's a pic and a link that may help. Good luck mate.
http://www.sky-manufacturing.com/

I have the sky set up the do great work had no vibs when i used to drive ont he street

Take the shaft out and then try it. That'll tell you if it's the shaft or not. Did the CV joint get rebuilt when the u-joints were replaced? I bet the joint itself is worn out because they click like you're saying when they're worn. :D

there is no CV joint atm..
it is doubble cardon on transfer and single on diff

we have twisted the transfer around a bit and no change...

will pull shaft out and see how it go's!

my old zook was street driven with toy diffs and zook transfer, and didnt viabrate up till around 80kph.. this is doing it from about 30kph!

yes it is a centerd toy diff and offset zook transfer...

see how we go!

If it was the shaft wouldn't you hear the click approx. 4 times per revolution of wheel, not just once?

take out the rear driveshaft and drive down the road using the front axle.
with a centered diff and offset t-case, it's best to use a single cardon driveshaft since you can not get the pinion to point at the t-case

hi there peoples!!!! Im Liam... Redzook put this post up for me to help me out.. thanks again mate!!! I just put the centre back in, after getting the tailshaft and diff centre inspected... they are ok!! I then went for a drive, and for some reason the "shudder" isnt as bad!! Still is pretty bad.. but not as bad as it was. Now it is only "vibrating/shuddering" when its under power, or when the throttle is right off and slowing down. It ISNT there when:
* Im in reverse going flat out,
* when im coasting down the road (the throttle is down just enough to keep the power there)
* When im in neutral, and when the clutch is out.
This makes us think it isnt the shaft.. cause it should be doing the opposite?? Thanks for your help!!!! :)

take out the rear driveshaft and drive down the road using the front axle.
with a centered diff and offset t-case, it's best to use a single cardon driveshaft since you can not get the pinion to point at the t-case

X2

But there's only so much you can expect with the centered diff and offset tcase. You can't turn the diff towards the tcase, and pointing the tcase to the diff will offset the shaft to the transmission.

You have a bad motor mount :D

Does the transmission shifter wobble a lot when the vibrations happen?

Are your driveshaft halves lined up correctly?

Are the u-joints maxing out and hitting the caps (look for wear marks)?
Are the joints nice and loose (not super tight)?
Is there any rotational play (twist the driveshaft)?

Grab ahold of everything and shake it, what's loose?

You have a bad motor mount :D

Does the transmission shifter wobble a lot when the vibrations happen?

Are your driveshaft halves lined up correctly?

Are the u-joints maxing out and hitting the caps (look for wear marks)?
Are the joints nice and loose (not super tight)?
Is there any rotational play (twist the driveshaft)?

Grab ahold of everything and shake it, what's loose?

Thanks for the replys! The vehicle drove fine before i did the conversion.. so cant be and mounts, transfer etc. Nope.. next to no vibes through the sticks.. Yup... their lined up straight with each other.. i have heaps of movement left before the uni cups crash, and nothing is loose?!?!?!?!?! Arghhh this drives me nuts!!!!!! Thanks heaps for the help so far!! About to go get towed up the road now with no shafts in :)

Do you have about 5 lbs of tire slime in one tire? ha

hehe.. who knows?!?!?! Just towed it up the road... no vibes what so ever.. still might be the tail shaft :confused: i've got some pics, but For some reason it isnt coming up "attach images" below this screen like it says it should.. i went into "post reply" like it said to... grr!

It sounds to me like axle wrap changing your pinion angle, as it mostly occurs under throttle, the offset tcase with the centered is a problematic setup at best, and imo not great for on road driving. I have seen a few with the skys offset minitruck axle (I'm in the same town as Sky's), and the toyota front driveline (double cardan cv at the case) without issues. Look Elotsip's zuk, he is running that setup, with the pinion pointed at the case, with great success.

Gi,day Liam looks like you have some work to do hey.. I tried the same setup on my coily and couldn't get it right.. First off I altered the cardon joint to allow max movement, almost 32deg.. But no real change. So what I did..{ cut up the rear housing/ kept my centre with the Air Locker bought a old full floater rear diff from a Fj40 and used the axles, hubs and spindles} and re tubed the the 8" housing to suit. And while I was at it fitted up disc,s. Every thing lines up great, And NO vibs at all ..Cheers Shane

We thought of axle wrap.. the pinion is only moving about 1 or 2" under throttle, and it still vibrates when you have got your boot right off the go pedal to :( nzzooker.. jeez that is alot of work!!!! But sounds like the goods hey. Maybe a off centre housing is the way to go?? Some hliuxs came out with them phil was saying.

The very early hilux {hard to find} or Imported old shape Prado would be the go, off set 8" factory disc"s.. Semi floater... I have access to one here but they still asking big $$..... The later prados have gone back to the centre...

Use an '86-'95 rear Toy axle with 3" removed from right side. Set pinion angle at 11 degree and a regular driveshaft.

I ran a Toyota centered axle with a double cardan toyota shaft pointed straight to the transfer case, and 2-3 degrees down from center to account for axle wrap at the differential end.

If you didn't have the ball joint rebuilt in the drive shaft, that could be your issue. There is a ball which rides on a pin. The pin/sleeve can be worn and has to be built back up to specs.

Also, if you shortened the drive shaft, and didn't get it back true, that could be the problem.

I had minimal vibrations with mine from 23-28 mph. Other speeds were fine up to 75 mph, though vibrations were felt when you let off of the gas fast, at higher speeds.

Though minimal in vibrations, I still went with Sky' offset Toyota axle.

Hope you find the source of the vibrations.

ok been speeking it liam..
he has had the zook into a drive line place, who are saying he hasnt got enough angle on the uni on the diff... so off with the perches and reset..

okie did you have to shorten a axel? or is there that much diffrence between the IFS rear housings and older ones?

also i was talking of "BUNDERA" rear ends.. wich are like a 73# cruser but run hilux style diffs.. but with offset in the rear:grinpimp:

Phil

The IFS rear axles (86 -95 hilux) are 3" wider than the earlier model solid axles (79-85 hilux).

ok cool.. but how does that work with takeing 3inches of one side???
wont that need a custom axel??

isnt there only room for 1.5 inches off?

or does one side have a custom axel?