I am running 33" SSwampers with stock axles, and a have a severe lack of breaking power. What are the options to improve it without swap stock axles?

You could do the SJ410-backing-plate trick on the rear, and go to disc brakes.

Maybe have your front rotors drilled, if your problem is braking @ highway speeds.

You can use the spidertrax rear disc conversion.
Read Disc Kit (http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_dsb.htm)

And you can read about the install here
Install (http://www.izook.com/tech/discbrakes/discbrakeinstall.htm)

Good Luck

:usa: :beret:

And what do you do with emergency brake? Is any option besides E-Brake kit?

Who needs an e-brake? :D

If you need an e-brake, you're not geared low enough :D

Originally posted by GBRAVO
And what do you do with emergency brake? Is any option besides E-Brake kit?
Pork Belly Engineering to the rescue!
Line Lockers (http://www.izook.com/tech/safetybrake/safetybrake.htm)

How about makin two brackets to hold your calipers ? Im surprised to hear u guys talk shit like this after i see all this tube chassis stuff and funky suspension, but we're afraid to tackle a rear disc bracket ? C'mon........ :eek:

First i would ask to describe you lack of brakes. I run 33" boggers and stock brakes and havent ever lacked for brakes on the trail and the few times its been on the road it seemed fine.

I believe Glen Wakefield used to run an 80s Firebird brake master cylinder. if i recollect it was a bolt in install.

Spidertrax (http://www.spidertrax.com/) also has a set of Wilwood brakes on their site now. Those should give you stopping power.
http://www.spidertrax.com/brakes_wil1.jpg

For an Ebrake you have the choice of a tcase kit or line locks (line locks arent a legal ebrak in most states)

Another option is the TrailTough (http://www.trailtough.com) rear brake kit. It uses subaru calipers that have a built in ebrake.

Originally posted by lojones
First i would ask to describe you lack of brakes. I run 33" boggers and stock brakes and havent ever lacked for brakes on the trail and the few times its been on the road it seemed fine.

The problem is not on the trial, is on street, my brakes are far away from safety breaking, they do not lock. It is like to break with heavily wet breaks after cross a river.

Additionally, I am running a 1986 MC and 1990 axles, could be this a reason?

Originally posted by Titanium
How about makin two brackets to hold your calipers ? Im surprised to hear u guys talk shit like this after i see all this tube chassis stuff and funky suspension, but we're afraid to tackle a rear disc bracket ? C'mon........ :eek:

Most of these guys don't run stock axles anymore. With the bigger axles came bigger brakes, a nice 2 for 1 upgrade.

maybe you need to do some adjusting to your brakes. with my 35MT/Rs I didnt have much of a brake problem with the stock axles. If your rear brakes arent adjusted right, they will use up most of the fluid when stepping on the pedal, leaving the front with minimal fluid.

try this go to an area safe to test, when your ready to brake hard, double pump your brakes, the first time not all the way down, but far enough to where you start to feel them grab, then let up and hit em hard again. If it stops a lot better, you need to have them adjusted.

Go to rear disk's.....and then use spidertrax Ebrake kit on you Tcase....Works awesome!!!

And I never had a problem breaking with stock axles....I broke shit all the time!

i switched to a 1980 firebird mastercylinder after doing a 44 swap along with a rear disc conversion. clearance the holes and bolts right in. no puch rod adjustment either. mastercylinder gives you more fluid displacement.:usa: